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Old June 23rd, 2013, 04:15 PM   #121
walty87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaBlue1 View Post
You're not going to see anything other than a disconnected coupling (if there is one). It's going to have to be tested.
Very nice videos man. TY.

I was testing the stator correctly, but I couldn't get a reading. I will try it again when I get a hold of the tester. Weird tho.

I will say when I have my bike turned on I was sitting at 12.6 to 12.7 volts. When I gave it gas and raised the rpm my voltage never went up (as it did in the video) on the battery terminals. It always stayed the same.
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Old June 23rd, 2013, 04:53 PM   #122
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Originally Posted by walty87 View Post
I'm looking at it now but I don't really see anything wrong with it? Wires all look good.



Like I said im looking at the rectifier and I don't see anything physically wrong here. Though I don't really know what I'm looking at.
Voltage Regulator fails internally, looking at it won't tell you anything, unless in flames



Thanks man I appreciate it, but I don't think the diodes are my problem, but i'm not 100% sure
I'm 93.43% sure it's not

So I still have no idea what the problem is. I'm about ready to take this bad boy to the shop and have the professionals deal with it.
Sometimes they're not that professional, keep at it, I think we're almost there

The stator wires look fine I followed them from top to buttom. I don't have the tester handy this weekend, so not a lot of testing to do.. But at that wiring pack for the stator cables I tried to test it before like you said @Asspire and I could not get a reading. Neither ac or dc.
Make sure your testing the connector coming FROM the stator cover, not the one going to the wire harness. Just trace the wire back to the stator cover (it goes in from bottom i think??). If there's no A/C voltage on either of the three wires, that would explain why the headlights don't come on, since one of them feeds the diode that sends power to the relay coil. You should also test for a shorted stator (its in my post with the pretty pictures)

I'm really believing my stator is the issue. It just makes sense, but i'm no where near 100% on that.
Good, I like to test, confirm, and replace parts, rather than load the parts shotgun and give it a shot.

Current issues with bike:

-Headlights do not come on unless I jump the yellow/blue and gray wires at the relay.
This means that the relay is working

-My brand new battery has died on my twice now. Once after buying it (guy at auto zone said it didn't need to be charged) and riding to work with, and then once after I've had it on a battery charger to fully charge it and riding it around my town.
Did we test the charging voltage with a fully charged battery? At idle and above?

I've tried 2 different auto parts stores relay's that should work and I get the same results as if my oem headlight relay was in there. So I'm not sure if this is the issue or not. I don't think it is... But I could be wrong.
It's not the relay

I checked out that rectifier as mentioned above, but I don't see anything wrong with it physically.
....

All my wiring looks fine and don't see any obvious shorts anywhere.
Good, I think

This is very frustrating. I'm really tempted to buy a used stator off ebay for like 50 bucks. It looks super easy to change out, and I would know if thats a problem or not.. idk guys!
PUT THE PARTS SHOTGUN DOWN!

Thanks for all the continued help and support. Like I said I have learned a lot a long the way. My dad keeps telling me to just take it to the shop, but he doesn't understand wanting to learn myself and save LOTS of money...
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Old June 23rd, 2013, 04:57 PM   #123
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@Asspire

I did test the running voltage of my brand new battery fully charged.

got 12.6 or 12.7v at idle.

if I raised rpm's my voltage never moved and stayed at 12.6 or 12.7 volts.
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Old June 23rd, 2013, 04:58 PM   #124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walty87 View Post
Very nice videos man. TY.

I was testing the stator correctly, but I couldn't get a reading. I will try it again when I get a hold of the tester. Weird tho.

I will say when I have my bike turned on I was sitting at 12.6 to 12.7 volts. When I gave it gas and raised the rpm my voltage never went up (as it did in the video) on the battery terminals. It always stayed the same.
While running leave the tester connected, jump the relay and see what happens to the voltage when the headlights come on, then flip the high beams on and hit the brake lights, and rev the engine, if voltage doesn't go up, then your running off battery power and its not getting charged.
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Old June 26th, 2013, 01:03 PM   #125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaBlue1 View Post
You're not going to see anything other than a disconnected coupling (if there is one). It's going to have to be tested.

Link to original page on YouTube.

Tested my stator wire again. I'm getting like no voltage out of my stator. I got a 1.5v, .5v, and .2v reading with engine running. I tested exactly like the guy in the video. No where near what it should be.

Bad stator?



@Asspire

When I jump headlights on my battery voltage drops, it drops even more with my high beams on. Nothing happens when I rev engine, voltage stays the same.
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Old June 26th, 2013, 01:13 PM   #126
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Did you set it to AC volts?
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Old June 26th, 2013, 01:17 PM   #127
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Did you set it to AC volts?
Yes sir. Just like in the video.
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Old June 26th, 2013, 01:20 PM   #128
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This would be ac volts correct?
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Old June 26th, 2013, 01:40 PM   #129
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Quote:
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Tested my stator wire again. I'm getting like no voltage out of my stator. I got a 1.5v, .5v, and .2v reading with engine running. I tested exactly like the guy in the video. No where near what it should be.

Bad stator?
By the looks of it, I would say so. Time to put that bad boy in the shop unless you plan to fix it yourself. You will also need the correct tools if you do it yourself.

BTW, did you ever changes your sprockets? The reason I ask is, reducing your RPM speed can save you some wear and tear. Since you are a daily hwy rider, it may be in your best interest.
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Old June 26th, 2013, 01:51 PM   #130
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Originally Posted by DaBlue1 View Post
By the looks of it, I would say so. Time to put that bad boy in the shop unless you plan to fix it yourself. You will also need the correct tools if you do it yourself.

BTW, did you ever changes your sprockets? The reason I ask is, reducing your RPM speed can save you some wear and tear. Since you are a daily hwy rider, it may be in your best interest.
I've looked up stator changes and it looks pretty easy. I've replaced the clutch myself, so this doesn't look any more difficult. Correct me if I'm wrong please! I have lots of tools, any specific tools worth mentioning for this job?

On this bike I'm really wanting to learn some mechanic skills and how to do lots of things myself. If I wasn't this bad boy would have been in the shop weeks ago. It's been a frustrating process, but I think i'm gaining tons of experience

I didn't change the size of the sprockets. I will do that once I need a new chain, but I do plan on going to the track. Would highway size sprockets be decent at the track?

Just so I know... is riding in high rpm's specifically rough on the stator? I know it's rough on the bike in general, but does it specifically hurt the stator when doing so?

THE BIG QUESTION IS...

would a bad stator cause my headlights not to turn on!?
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Old June 26th, 2013, 03:10 PM   #131
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You'll need silicone sealant to seal up the case mating surfaces when putting the engine cover back on. Hondabond HT is good for this (avbl. at any Honda dealership). Read up on how to use it.

You'll also need a new OEM engine cover gasket.
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Old June 26th, 2013, 03:11 PM   #132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walty87 View Post
I've looked up stator changes and it looks pretty easy. I've replaced the clutch myself, so this doesn't look any more difficult. Correct me if I'm wrong please! I have lots of tools, any specific tools worth mentioning for this job?

On this bike I'm really wanting to learn some mechanic skills and how to do lots of things myself. If I wasn't this bad boy would have been in the shop weeks ago. It's been a frustrating process, but I think i'm gaining tons of experience

I didn't change the size of the sprockets. I will do that once I need a new chain, but I do plan on going to the track. Would highway size sprockets be decent at the track?

Just so I know... is riding in high rpm's specifically rough on the stator? I know it's rough on the bike in general, but does it specifically hurt the stator when doing so?

THE BIG QUESTION IS...

would a bad stator cause my headlights not to turn on!?
A bad headlight relay or diode would also cause your headlight to not turn on. It could also be one of the many spliced connections that the diode and the relay need that could have broken off.
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Old June 26th, 2013, 04:28 PM   #133
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.... Would highway size sprockets be decent at the track?

.... is riding in high rpm's specifically rough on the stator? I know it's rough on the bike in general, but does it specifically hurt the stator when doing so?

THE BIG QUESTION IS...

would a bad stator cause my headlights not to turn on!?


It all depends on how well your bike is tuned and how well of rider you are. There are a couple of members who race their bikes with 15/42 & 15/43 sprockets.

High rpms do not specifically hurt the stator, but like any electrical component it makes heat and alternators can succumb to excessive heat and overworking.

The alternator supplies power (AC) to the coil side of the headlight relay, so if there is no power from the stator the head lights don't come on.
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Old June 26th, 2013, 05:59 PM   #134
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Quote:
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I've looked up stator changes and it looks pretty easy. I've replaced the clutch myself, so this doesn't look any more difficult. Correct me if I'm wrong please! I have lots of tools, any specific tools worth mentioning for this job?

On this bike I'm really wanting to learn some mechanic skills and how to do lots of things myself. If I wasn't this bad boy would have been in the shop weeks ago. It's been a frustrating process, but I think i'm gaining tons of experience

I didn't change the size of the sprockets. I will do that once I need a new chain, but I do plan on going to the track. Would highway size sprockets be decent at the track?

Just so I know... is riding in high rpm's specifically rough on the stator? I know it's rough on the bike in general, but does it specifically hurt the stator when doing so?

THE BIG QUESTION IS...

would a bad stator cause my headlights not to turn on!?

depending on the diode, it will require a certain amount of forward voltage to "jump", from what your saying, your stator is the cause of the headlights not working and battery discharging.
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Old June 29th, 2013, 01:26 AM   #135
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And she's alive!

New stator installed and the headlights came on! Boom!

I left it running for about 10 mins, just finished up about 20 minutes ago. No signs of oil leaks, so I'm hoping it's good lol!

Was pretty easy, but I had to drain the coolant and more oil came out then I was expecting.

I'm going to have to re route my stator wire plug in.

Anyways sorry for rambling on... this post is not very articulate, but I'm tired it's 1:30am!

I just had to post that it worked! So far lol. Thanks for all the help everyone! I still will make the write up on one of my days off!
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Old June 29th, 2013, 05:46 AM   #136
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And she's alive!

New stator installed and the headlights came on! Boom!
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Old June 29th, 2013, 06:44 AM   #137
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Holy ****, we actually figured it out? Looks like we guessed right.

J/k


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Old June 29th, 2013, 08:35 AM   #138
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Haha yup!

The old stator had a big black burn looking mark on it

Still no leaks! Should I be worried about anything else?
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Old June 29th, 2013, 09:39 AM   #139
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Nothing yet. ...good job tracking that down all!
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Old June 29th, 2013, 10:44 PM   #140
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Haha yup!

The old stator had a big black burn looking mark on it

Still no leaks! Should I be worried about anything else?


GREMLINS!



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Old January 28th, 2018, 03:39 PM   #141
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OP you said you had to rewire the connector to fit. Did it matter how you wired the 3 yellows or can they go anywhere in the 3 connector spots? Does anybody know?
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Old January 29th, 2018, 09:26 AM   #142
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They must be paired. Look at how the original was wired.
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