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Old July 1st, 2016, 02:20 PM   #41
choneofakind
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There's something different with the ignition pickup between the Europe-spec fuel injected bike and the US-spec carbureted bike for the 2008-2012 generation.

Search for threads with the batman guy who did an OE fuel injection swap on his USA spec 2008-2012 bike with all factory parts from Europe. It was a sweet bike that made great power. It was his track-only bike and he won some races with it. I think it had a Leo Vince exhaust and the fairings were yellow with blue and green iirc. He gave some more information at some point about what was needed for the complete swap.
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Old July 2nd, 2016, 12:29 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by choneofakind View Post
There's something different with the ignition pickup between the Europe-spec fuel injected bike and the US-spec carbureted bike for the 2008-2012 generation.

Search for threads with the batman guy who did an OE fuel injection swap on his USA spec 2008-2012 bike with all factory parts from Europe. It was a sweet bike that made great power. It was his track-only bike and he won some races with it. I think it had a Leo Vince exhaust and the fairings were yellow with blue and green iirc. He gave some more information at some point about what was needed for the complete swap.
OK, so I can use my old ignition rotor etc. and keep my carbs.
I really don't want to convert this bike to injection, it would be more cost effective to buy a newgen bike and break my ZZR for spares, although I don't want to do that, I rather like the ZZR style. I am showing my age now.
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Old July 2nd, 2016, 05:23 AM   #43
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OK, so I can use my old ignition rotor etc.
That's the part I think is different.

Again, search for the guy who did it. It's all on here somewhere.
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Old July 2nd, 2016, 06:22 AM   #44
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Originally Posted by choneofakind View Post
That's the part I think is different.

Again, search for the guy who did it. It's all on here somewhere.
Thanks Chris,

I did a search for batman's post could not find it.
When I get a bit more time to sit at the computer I will try again, but at least the comments so far have been positive.
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Old July 2nd, 2016, 08:40 AM   #45
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His user name is Shadowwolf1117 The bat logo is on his leathers. Or maybe i'm remembering someone else.

This is his sale thread:
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=260228

Scroll through this thread for all his info on what he changed. It's a long thread, but there's plenty of info in it that should help you out:
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=95095
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Old July 24th, 2016, 10:49 AM   #46
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Well my search for a newgen engine didn't produce anything for a sensible price, but I did find this.

2011, one middle aged lady owner from new, 4600 miles and only 35 miles down the road from me.
I could not let that get away.

And now I will have to change my user name.

Thanks for all the advice offered, even if it did turn out not to be needed.

Ninja 250R.jpg

Last futzed with by ZZRIvy; July 24th, 2016 at 10:56 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old July 24th, 2016, 11:35 AM   #47
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Oh, nice! Congrats on the new bike.
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Old July 24th, 2016, 10:54 PM   #48
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I sold my '82 kz440 that was my commuter and I bought my '05 for that role because parts were easier to find and the aftermarket was more extensive! If y'all have trouble getting quality parts for a pregen, try it for a 70's era Kawasaki.
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Old July 25th, 2016, 05:25 AM   #49
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Did anyone have issues with the top motor mounts? I can only get one side to align.
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Old October 22nd, 2016, 04:57 PM   #50
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Eric, how different are the engine mounts between newgen and pregen? You sure the wiring is the same? I'm debating the swap to newer.

Quote:
Originally Posted by EMSRacer07 View Post
Sorry so late. I just grinded the pregen mount about 1/4'' on each inner side. I ended up using my pregen radiator since i used the pregen motor mounts. If i had used the newgen or 300 ones i would probably have to use that radiator since they are completely different.

And got a great deal on ebay from a wrecked out bike. got just about everything.
Bump!

Are you able to share some more about your bike? I'm curious on what you find for the exhaust.
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Old October 23rd, 2016, 11:45 PM   #51
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Did anyone have issues with the top motor mounts? I can only get one side to align.
i had to grind both sides on my pregen to get the top mount to fit.
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Old October 23rd, 2016, 11:49 PM   #52
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Eric, how different are the engine mounts between newgen and pregen? You sure the wiring is the same? I'm debating the swap to newer.



Bump!

Are you able to share some more about your bike? I'm curious on what you find for the exhaust.
Sorry for the wait. Yea i didnt really take any pics since it took me a while to put it in and get everything right. Wiring was a pain, not to re wire anything but to put it in the right place and make sure everything fits.

Ask your questions. Bike still runs strong. Very efficient. The stock 300 header clears on the pregen but needs to be extended about 1 1/2 inches outwards and rotated upward 15 degrees to match the stock pregen header. And i just put a Dan Moto can on the end. Sounds nice.

If anyone needs pics or anything just ask or any information. Engine swap takes minutes to do. Harness and wiring took me a few hours a day for a few days. But yes everything does fit on the pregen and fits inside the fairings etc.
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Old October 24th, 2016, 03:55 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EMSRacer07 View Post
Sorry for the wait. Yea i didnt really take any pics since it took me a while to put it in and get everything right. Wiring was a pain, not to re wire anything but to put it in the right place and make sure everything fits.

Ask your questions. Bike still runs strong. Very efficient. The stock 300 header clears on the pregen but needs to be extended about 1 1/2 inches outwards and rotated upward 15 degrees to match the stock pregen header. And i just put a Dan Moto can on the end. Sounds nice.

If anyone needs pics or anything just ask or any information. Engine swap takes minutes to do. Harness and wiring took me a few hours a day for a few days. But yes everything does fit on the pregen and fits inside the fairings etc.
Promising.

IIRC, you're running it with carbs and had to do something to make it work with the CDI? What's the jetting look like?

You said you had to modify the motor mounts? Pictures and/or explanation?

What's the OD of the 300 header at the point where it goes into the can?
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Old October 24th, 2016, 08:57 PM   #54
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I bought a very clean 1998 ninja 250 with a rebuilt engine. The engine is a 2008 kawasaki 250 engine with 19K miles on it. The engine was rebuilt because the old one sat too long. I bought it 5 days after it left the service shop.

The engine at idle when I start it sounds really good and when you rev it, it sounds good too. But when it revs down or when you let off the throttle it has a weird like rumbling noise. Its not pings, pongs, clicking, squeaking, the best way I can explain is like it has asthma and under pressure, like its trying to exhale. Is that normal idk?? Its like a really bad depressing asthma with really bad bronchitis sigh...???

When I let off the throttle and when I turn the throttle it jumps. I have to slowly literally millimeters pull the throttle to not let it jump. This is probably just lube the throttle cables?

The 250 would warm up at around 15-20 minutes at 45F o 8C. I would then take it off the choke and it wouldn't stay on. It cranks right up with choke all the way when cold but after it warms up I take the choke off it idles slowly down and then shuts off.

When I contacted the person it was last serviced, the person who rebuilt it, he said all it needs is the petcock replaced because its old and thats whats clogging up the fuel line.

Why I haven't visited a mechanic is because I'm short on time and most of the shops open late and close early?_?

My questions are(if there are other threads that help answering please post them):

What can I do or what did the mechanic forget to do for a bike that has been sitting so long that had its engine rebuilt forgotten to do?


What tools do I need to be able to service my own bike?
-clean carbs
-clean petcock
-clean pilot jets

What would you do in this situation(aside from ride the bike off the nearest cliff or lake)?
What are some checks you would do?

Yes I'm a total newb, but I did the most basic stuff when I went to buy it. Made sure everything mechanically was good, oil was right color/level, no rattling, made sure frame was good(wasn't wrecked), gas tank was nice and clear not milky,?

Aside from all of this I can ride the bike just fine, I just haven't took it past 50mph...

Any criticism is appreciated as long as you have some helpful advice.

Edit: I can't get the bike to a mechanic because I'm at work most of the week everyday -_-
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Old October 24th, 2016, 09:44 PM   #55
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Superiorknightz: I replied to your post over on Ninja250.org

also, now that you're here you should look at the Ducatiman carbs thread.
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Old October 25th, 2016, 07:06 AM   #56
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Thx Greg
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Old November 20th, 2016, 08:43 PM   #57
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Congrats on the new bike!
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Old January 20th, 2017, 07:18 AM   #58
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?

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Because Unregistered sucks at riding.

Edit: If you are confused log out and look at this.
WTF?
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Old January 20th, 2017, 07:46 AM   #59
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WTF?
It says "Because Triple Jim sucks at riding. I figure he's just seen me ride.

You can actually just hit the "quote" button and look at the quoted text.
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Old January 20th, 2017, 07:56 AM   #60
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re:

Weird...it qouted highvoltj sucks at riding (me) and I don't believe I have ever met!!
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Old May 13th, 2017, 06:18 PM   #61
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Because Unregistered sucks at riding.

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U talking about me bitch?
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Old May 13th, 2017, 06:25 PM   #62
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WTF?
Just who u supposed to me honey badger ? And what is this about I can't ride id do u in on the same bike same mods anyday if u think i can't ride
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Old May 13th, 2017, 06:51 PM   #63
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Old May 14th, 2017, 01:06 AM   #64
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Old June 3rd, 2017, 06:52 PM   #65
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It's an easy fit.
All the electrics plug in. You will need to change the exhaust. And the upper motor mount is different. And the radiator mounts to the upper mount. I would use a new mount and change the radiator mounting tabs.

Also the metal coolant tube coming out of the top new engine is curved. The old gen pipe is streight. Use a new o ring and sealer when replacing this as it tends to be tricky to seal.

If you run pod filters use the rubber manifolds from a new gen as they are shorted and tuned for the engine .

There are a couple little things I might
Be forgetting . But I think that's it.
Does the exhaust most definetly to be changed as in it will not fit or that it wont run correctly? How does the upper mount change exactly?
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Old June 3rd, 2017, 07:38 PM   #66
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Charles, funny you bumped this thread today. I was just working on my swap.

RacerX is right, the electrical connectors all appear to be identical. Wire lengths, connectors, locations for terminals, etc. No concerns there.

The exhaust flange design is definitely different between generations as well. The way the header mounts to the head and seals is different. I have a newgen exhaust on order from Tyga. Hopefully the hanger/clamp setup is flexible enough to allow it to hang on the pregen. (I bet it's fine)

The upper mount presents the fun part of this. The meat at the mount point on the pregen head is ~120mm wide. The mount bolt goes through the left side bracket and threads into the right side bracket. The mounts are the same style for the newgen, but the material at the mount point was beefed up to ~130mm from my measurements today. From eyeballing it, it looks as though the added width on the newgen is symmetrical and both pregen front mounts need to have 5mm taken off of them. Or... use the newgen front mount brackets, but RacerX tells me that the pregen radiator mount pattern is different than the newgen radiator mount pattern, so if you're not wanting to modify things, you'll have to pair a newgen radiator with newgen front mount bracketss or a pregen radiator with pregen front mount brackets.

I'll share whatever I end up doing as I get there. I'm thinking of machining just because I have such a nice machine shop at my disposal, but we'll see how that goes. The brackets might be a bear to mount up square on the Bridgeport.

EDIT: The good news is the rear two mounts are identical. My newgen engine is currently dangling in my frame by just the two rear mount bolts. No worries for now.
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Old June 4th, 2017, 06:13 AM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by choneofakind View Post
Charles, funny you bumped this thread today. I was just working on my swap.

RacerX is right, the electrical connectors all appear to be identical. Wire lengths, connectors, locations for terminals, etc. No concerns there.

The exhaust flange design is definitely different between generations as well. The way the header mounts to the head and seals is different. I have a newgen exhaust on order from Tyga. Hopefully the hanger/clamp setup is flexible enough to allow it to hang on the pregen. (I bet it's fine)

The upper mount presents the fun part of this. The meat at the mount point on the pregen head is ~120mm wide. The mount bolt goes through the left side bracket and threads into the right side bracket. The mounts are the same style for the newgen, but the material at the mount point was beefed up to ~130mm from my measurements today. From eyeballing it, it looks as though the added width on the newgen is symmetrical and both pregen front mounts need to have 5mm taken off of them. Or... use the newgen front mount brackets, but RacerX tells me that the pregen radiator mount pattern is different than the newgen radiator mount pattern, so if you're not wanting to modify things, you'll have to pair a newgen radiator with newgen front mount bracketss or a pregen radiator with pregen front mount brackets.

I'll share whatever I end up doing as I get there. I'm thinking of machining just because I have such a nice machine shop at my disposal, but we'll see how that goes. The brackets might be a bear to mount up square on the Bridgeport.

EDIT: The good news is the rear two mounts are identical. My newgen engine is currently dangling in my frame by just the two rear mount bolts. No worries for now.
Thanks for the info
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Old June 4th, 2017, 04:41 PM   #68
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Originally Posted by choneofakind View Post
Charles, funny you bumped this thread today. I was just working on my swap.

RacerX is right, the electrical connectors all appear to be identical. Wire lengths, connectors, locations for terminals, etc. No concerns there.

The exhaust flange design is definitely different between generations as well. The way the header mounts to the head and seals is different. I have a newgen exhaust on order from Tyga. Hopefully the hanger/clamp setup is flexible enough to allow it to hang on the pregen. (I bet it's fine)

The upper mount presents the fun part of this. The meat at the mount point on the pregen head is ~120mm wide. The mount bolt goes through the left side bracket and threads into the right side bracket. The mounts are the same style for the newgen, but the material at the mount point was beefed up to ~130mm from my measurements today. From eyeballing it, it looks as though the added width on the newgen is symmetrical and both pregen front mounts need to have 5mm taken off of them. Or... use the newgen front mount brackets, but RacerX tells me that the pregen radiator mount pattern is different than the newgen radiator mount pattern, so if you're not wanting to modify things, you'll have to pair a newgen radiator with newgen front mount bracketss or a pregen radiator with pregen front mount brackets.

I'll share whatever I end up doing as I get there. I'm thinking of machining just because I have such a nice machine shop at my disposal, but we'll see how that goes. The brackets might be a bear to mount up square on the Bridgeport.

EDIT: The good news is the rear two mounts are identical. My newgen engine is currently dangling in my frame by just the two rear mount bolts. No worries for now.
Do you know if an engine from Canada would be European,and do you know if the pregen starter works on the new gen engine? You did say I can just grind down the top mount slightly to get it to fit corrrct?Still saving money wish me luck.
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Old June 4th, 2017, 05:29 PM   #69
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Do you know if an engine from Canada would be European
No idea. I don't know why that would change anything related to the physical dimensions of the engine though. Likely just the fueling and/or ignition timing are different between regions of sale to comply with the laws for that area. Example: California model vs the standard 49 state model of pregen.

Quote:
Originally Posted by strickcharles5 View Post
and do you know if the pregen starter works on the new gen engine?
No idea. I haven't measured the two starters or their mounts. Does the newgen motor you're looking at not come with a starter? I'd guess they're interchangeable, but that's only a guess, so take that with a grain of salt.

Quote:
Originally Posted by strickcharles5 View Post
You did say I can just grind down the top mount slightly to get it to fit corrrct?Still saving money wish me luck.
Nope, never said that. I said they need machining work. Looking at them more, they look like multiple small pieces that have been welded together. Not sure if they're able to be machined or not. The other thing you could do is take 5mm off each side from the head on the mill, but... there's a lot of risk involved there if you mess it up. The brackets are cheaper than the head.

I bought a complete radiator, engine mount brackets, mount bolts, and all the cooling hoses from a newgen off fleabay for $50 shipped. $50 is worth my time and sanity. You're doing a fairly painless engine swap, don't shy away from $50.
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Old June 7th, 2017, 07:57 PM   #70
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Because Unregistered sucks at riding.

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huh?
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Old June 8th, 2017, 03:25 PM   #71
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Newgen motor mounts (and the one newgen bolt for the front mount) work great. I ground off the welds for the newgen coils so I can bolt up my pregen coils. Bueno.

The newgen radiator is too wide for the bodywork, so I'll be making a bracket to run the pregen radiator. Not sure if I'm using 1/8" metal (likely steel or aluminum, whatever is available at work) or 3/16" ABS sheet (depending on some research into temp ranges). I have a water jet and light duty laser cutter at my disposal, so I have some flexibility there.

After that, I need chain and sprockets because mine are worn, and I need to figure out if the airbox fits or if I will use pods. Then clean the carbs because they've been sitting so long
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Old February 7th, 2018, 07:11 AM   #72
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Just who u supposed to me honey badger ? And what is this about I can't ride id do u in on the same bike same mods anyday if u think i can't ride
I havent touched a motorcycle in over a year.. Lets go.
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Old January 3rd, 2019, 07:58 PM   #73
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I just finish putting newgen engine into a pregen bike and we did not need newgen motor mount. Fits in old one just fine.
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Old January 3rd, 2019, 09:02 PM   #74
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Originally Posted by Yamastorm View Post
I just finish putting newgen engine into a pregen bike and we did not need newgen motor mount. Fits in old one just fine.
I'm not quite sure how you managed this. The boss on the front of the newgen engine is wider than the boss on the pregen engine. The mounts have to be wider to accommodate this. EMSRacer experienced the same thing I did when he put a newer engine into his pregen, but instead of using a newgen mount like I did to add width, he ground down his pregen mounts.

Did you bend the tabs on the frame that the motor mounts bolt up to?
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Old January 3rd, 2019, 09:33 PM   #75
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Very little grind a bend. Much easier then try new motor mount.
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Old January 5th, 2019, 04:26 PM   #76
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I'm not planning on doing this swap or anything, I'm just asking out of curiosity.

Does Ninja 400 engine fit?

I believe Ninja 400 and 250 have the same external dimension?
(Ninja 400 for US/Canadian market, 250 for Asian/European)
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Old January 5th, 2019, 06:29 PM   #77
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No way will 400 fit. Engine mounting points are completely different. Not to mention sub-frame and rear swingarm is attached to 400 engine. So you'll need to chop off entire rear section of 250-frame and use 400 sub-frame and swingarm.

Look up Bruce's engine-builds, actually got more power from them than stock 400.
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Old January 5th, 2019, 06:35 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
No way will 400 fit. Engine mounting points are completely different. Not to mention sub-frame and rear swingarm is attached to 400 engine. So you'll need to chop off entire rear section of 250-frame and use 400 sub-frame and swingarm.

Look up Bruce's engine-builds, actually got more power from them than stock 400.
ahh okay I didn't know that the mounting points were different.
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Old January 7th, 2019, 11:36 PM   #79
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Sorry for me to jump in on this, but it’s dont I just keep having problems, got a 300 from Craigslist, crank was bad apparently, then it was timing chain and tensioner, and now after finding the timing jumped on the chain, the flipping intake cam shaft broke. I am running the 300 with pregen lectricals, need to make a bracket for the radiator, new 300 front motor mounts. Soldered an extension for the oil sensor. And installed a aftermarket radiator fan (low profile) I should have an update on my page but I am waiting on a carb jet kit ��
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Old January 7th, 2019, 11:39 PM   #80
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Originally Posted by GreasedLissik View Post
Sorry for me to jump in on this, but it’s dont I just keep having problems, got a 300 from Craigslist, crank was bad apparently, then it was timing chain and tensioner, and now after finding the timing jumped on the chain, the flipping intake cam shaft broke. I am running the 300 with pregen lectricals, need to make a bracket for the radiator, new 300 front motor mounts. Soldered an extension for the oil sensor. And installed a aftermarket radiator fan (low profile) I should have an update on my page but I am waiting on a carb jet kit ��
So you're getting a carb jet kit for Ninja 300 with EFI????
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