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Old September 11th, 2011, 01:52 AM   #1
hoodadooda
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Cold Start Concerns

I've noticed a change in my bike during cold starts. When it was stock, it would start up fine in fair weather, but would be hard to start during cold weather as expected. Then I went about putting a new exhaust on and changed the jetting. I only found it to start up a little better in cold weather. Sometime last July, I removed the airbox and changed the jetting again (see the specs below). She would start fine during the first few hundred miles, but for some unknown reason started being troublesome during cold startups in the past month and a half. In perfect 80 degree weather, I have to either press the starter button a few times or have the choke on for her to start during the first time. Once she's warm, I have no problem starting her up again. Here's a video of what I'm talking about. First time I hit the starter with no choke and then with full choke. Could it be possible that my carbs need cleaning? I'm also coming up on the first valve adjustment interval since I'm at ~6600 miles.

Link to original page on YouTube.

YEAR: 2009

INTAKE MODIFICATIONS: R-0990 K&N Filter (also has a drycharger over it, it shouldn't affect intake much though if at all)

EXHAUST MODIFICATIONS: Area P CF Full System

JET KIT OR STOCK? Jet Kit

BRAND OF JET KIT? Factory Pro

MAIN JET: 112

NEEDLE AND CLIP POSITION: Needle with the clip on the 3rd position with one washer underneath and two up top.

MIXTURE SCREW SETTINGS: Somewhere around 2 1/4, probably more

ELEVATION: 200 feet

MISCELLANESOUS INFORMATION ABOUT YOUR BIKE’S JETTING SETUP: I did move the floats 1mm to lean it out just a little bit as the A/F guage was reading rich and the bike was giving me feedback that convinced me it was rich. My final setup was giving me the readings (between 11.5 and 13.5) and the pull I was looking for throughout the rev range.

Also, I did try the 110 since it's been really hot out recently and adjusted the needles and mixture screws accordingly. It felt decent, but my readings were pointing towards being a bit lean up top, not horribly lean, but in the 14's. I switched to a 112 and that took care of that, but I was a bit rich down low, so I adjusted the floats a little and this moved me into the range I wanted with the readings and it also felt good.

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Old September 11th, 2011, 11:21 AM   #2
Cuongism
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Have you taken a look at your spark plugs recently? Those are also due at 7500 and will affect starting your bike if it shows carbon/oil fouling especially since you said it's rich down low.
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Old September 11th, 2011, 11:58 AM   #3
hoodadooda
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cuongism View Post
Have you taken a look at your spark plugs recently? Those are also due at 7500 and will affect starting your bike if it shows carbon/oil fouling especially since you said it's rich down low.
Sorry, forgot to mention that I put new plugs in a little early at around 6k miles and I have checked them recently. No strange coloration.
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Old September 11th, 2011, 12:05 PM   #4
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valve adjustment will help with starting immensely.

and there's nothing wrong with needing choke to start the bike when it's cold. A little richer mixture helps the bike start
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Old September 11th, 2011, 07:35 PM   #5
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valve adjustment will help with starting immensely.

and there's nothing wrong with needing choke to start the bike when it's cold. A little richer mixture helps the bike start
I was hoping for an answer like this.
For all I know, the valves could be way off from factory specs. When I get to the mileage for a valve adjustment, do you think I should attempt it myself? So far, I've done everything to the bike myself and gotten really good results just following DIYs and doing research on the internet.
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Old September 11th, 2011, 09:05 PM   #6
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honestly I don't know. The valve adjustment on a pregen is downright easy, just time consuming. I do know that it's a different process with the current model bike that involves shimming, rather than just adjusting a screw and lock-nut for each valve like on a pre-gen. But if you have the time, tools, and patience, GO FOR IT!!! nothing better than sweating and swearing and bleeding a little for some bonding time with your bike. there's great DIY's for both measuring and adjusting the valve lash here. Plus doing it on your own will save somewhere around 200-300 dollars depending on what shop you would use.

a valve adjustment and carb sync helped my bike run so much better this summer. Plus it really gave me a sense of pride doing it.
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Old September 11th, 2011, 09:08 PM   #7
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also, since you've been doing jetting changes, have you synced your carbs? that could also be a suspect that would make it hard to start. that takes like 5 minutes and makes things smoother.

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_...carburetors%3F

I use the two bottle method and it works great
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Old September 11th, 2011, 09:50 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by choneofakind View Post
also, since you've been doing jetting changes, have you synced your carbs? that could also be a suspect that would make it hard to start. that takes like 5 minutes and makes things smoother.

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_...carburetors%3F

I use the two bottle method and it works great
Exactly what I used to sync them. Turns out they weren't that far off. After the valve adjustment though, I plan on syncing them again for good measure.
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