Jetting reassurance

02337 · October 2nd, 2012, 06:47 PM

So I've drilled out the rivets on my exhaust and shimmed the needle, bike ran great.
Decided to do uni pods and purchased some main jets, bought 110,112, and 115(thought they were 108's :/)

I decided to start with the 110's I put it on with no washers and it bogged a little with no washers, so I tried upping the washers one at a time to a total of 3, bike didn't like it as it bogged/stumbled more in the mid range, runs great at full throttle really pulls hard, compared to before...

So my thinking is to get the 108's and start shimming the needles to its fine tuned. My question is this though, with moving down a main jet size will it cause the upper rpm full throttle to now be lean? I thought shimming the needles was mainly mid range.

Thoughts?

Jiggles · October 2nd, 2012, 07:11 PM

What exhaust do you have? And what mains are you using?

alex.s · October 2nd, 2012, 07:17 PM

Sounds too rich

02337 · October 2nd, 2012, 07:17 PM

As I said its the stock exhaust with rivets drilled out and 110 mains

02337 · October 2nd, 2012, 07:19 PM

Figuring its too rich in the partial throttle mid range. But I'm concerned with how good the bike feels in the full throttle upper rpms.
If I drop one size smaller main jet and shim the needle will it have negative effects on full throttle upper rpms?

alex.s · October 2nd, 2012, 07:24 PM

Hard to say if your main jet is correct. Dropping the needle will lean the midrange independently of the wot metering.

Putting shims on the needle raises it and makes it more rich

Jiggles · October 2nd, 2012, 07:24 PM

110 whats though?

alex.s · October 2nd, 2012, 07:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jiggles

110 whats though?

It doesn't matter, he is using the same brand.

02337 · October 2nd, 2012, 07:28 PM

The 110s I purchased from my dealer for the keihin carb. If wot is great with the 110's is it possible to lean the midrange farther out even with no shims under the needles?

Maybe I'll add a few more washers to make sure I'm not misreading it and it's actually lean.

alex.s · October 2nd, 2012, 07:40 PM

If it got worse when you added washers the first time, adding more won't help.

It's possible your pilot jet is too large. Maybe you need aftermarket needles

02337 · October 2nd, 2012, 07:47 PM

Maybe I'll go back to no washers and play around with the mixture screws a bit

Jiggles · October 2nd, 2012, 08:00 PM

I think you are WAY too rich considering you have a stock can

02337 · October 2nd, 2012, 08:03 PM

Rich in the midrange, upper rpms feel better than they did at stock, I'll try out the 108's tomorrow and see what I can come up with, I though removing the airbox and going with pods would require quite a big jump in main jets regardless of exhaust.

choneofakind · October 2nd, 2012, 09:24 PM

I think 108's will be better.

FWIW, I was running slip-ons and a completely opened intake lid with 108's and the bike ran freakin great

edited for thought completion.

alex.s · October 2nd, 2012, 11:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by choneofakind

and the bike

Oh really?

choneofakind · October 3rd, 2012, 10:34 AM

derp. fixed.

02337 · October 3rd, 2012, 07:39 PM

Dealer had 107.5s I put in bike still pulls as great in the upper, I screwed out the mixture screws a bit and it. Started bogging under light load and throttle blip(rich) mid range starts popping a bit so I'm thinking tomorrow in going to shim the needles and see where that gets me.
Concur?

choneofakind · October 3rd, 2012, 09:53 PM

1) I've had various sources call those different names. 107.5 or 108's... whatever, they're the same one from what I can tell.

2) If it's bogging under small openings, turn the mix screws in 1/4 turn.

3) yes, popping mid-throttle from opening/closing the throttle partially means that you need 1 or 2 washers on the needles. With my setup, I ended up at 108 mains, 3 washers on the needles, and just over 2.5 turns out with the mix screws. I think you're likely going to end up in the same neighborhood based on your main jet selection. But still find the combo that works best for your bike! You sound like you're in the right track so far.

02337 · October 4th, 2012, 12:51 PM

I shimmed the needles up to 3 and it's responding better and better but I'm still getting a little pop when there's throttle roll on in the midrange. I forgot to sync the carbs after I installed the pod filters so I'm going to do that tonight and pretty much start over :/

choneofakind · October 4th, 2012, 12:53 PM

Sync them and see how it goes. syncing is part of the jetting process anyways

whenever I change my jetting, I get it so it feels right, and then sync to make sure everything is peachy. I don't think syncing will make you have to start over at all.

02337 · October 4th, 2012, 01:30 PM

I'm hoping I won't have to start over. My final question is this, does mixture screws have any thing to do with mixture other than at idle, as in does mixture screws have any effect on part throttle or slight throttle?

Also when I see people referring to turn the mixture screws out 2 1/2 turns are they referring to 2 and 1/2 complete rotations of the screw? Or only 180 degrees per "turn"?

choneofakind · October 4th, 2012, 01:35 PM

360 degrees is "one turn"

The mix screws and pilot jets have the largest effect at idle. They technically have a small effect everywhere else in the rpm/throttle range, but it's so small that it's not a huge deal. There's a couple different schools of thought on whether the mix screws should be tuned first or last. Both seem to work. My experience is with finding the main jets, then the needle height, then the pilot jets/mix screws.

02337 · October 5th, 2012, 08:29 AM

When I pulled the tops of the carbs to reshim the needles today I noticed the washers had gotten stuck in the plastic piece that sits at the bottom of the spring. I think this may of been causing issues so I replaced the top washer with one that is a little wider so it can't get stuck. Same thickness. So now if this has been happening all along I guess I gotta start back at 1 washer and work my way back up.

02337 · October 5th, 2012, 09:30 AM

First good update, 107.5 mains and no washers, and 2 and 1/2 turn out bike is running 10x better but there's a ever so slight little stumble at 6k with slight slight throttle. I wouldn't notice it unless I was really trying to find it. I'm gonna turn the mix screws out a little and see if that cures it.

Thanks for all the help, I see a wideband being installed in my future!

alex.s · October 5th, 2012, 09:42 AM

stumble means rich. low power means lean.

turn the screw in half a turn.

02337 · October 5th, 2012, 09:47 AM

If I were to get it right would it be worth my while to throw the 110 back in and try to fine tune it again? The 110 ran great at wide open throttle but stumbled at part throttle with no shims.

alex.s · October 5th, 2012, 09:48 AM

that means you need a smaller pilot jet.

02337 · October 5th, 2012, 11:39 AM

Smaller than stock pilot jet? I thought they already came lean as it was.
I also noticed lack of top end on the bike. Really didn't want move past 90.

I suppose there's some matatical arithmetic that explains why losing the stock airbox and snorkel results in less velocity at part throttle which explains the smaller pilot jet?

Going to switch back to the 110 as it was noticeably more powerful at full throttle.

Am I on the right track here or completely off?

alex.s · October 5th, 2012, 11:45 AM

changing the pilot jet will effect which main jet you need. if 110 is good right now and you decrease the pilot jet, its possible you will need to put in a larger main jet.

i personally think the ideal tuning route is get your pilot setup correctly then setup the main jet then tune the needle. though, i know some people (including 'professional' tuners) disagree on that though. though i have never heard a real reason on why you would tune main jet first then pilot jet. just the reason of "thats how you do it". i guess blind trust is good enough for most people.

02337 · October 5th, 2012, 12:19 PM

I appreciate it so is there any chance you could rattle off the pilot size of the stock pregen? Pardon my lazyness.

Currently I'm on the 108. I'll be putting the 110 back in as it felt better at wide open, I think the smaller pilot with 110 will really get the results I'm looking for.

Im glad you can take the time for me, as Jetting over forums isn't ideal

alex.s · October 5th, 2012, 12:24 PM

No idea.

choneofakind · October 6th, 2012, 08:01 AM

I think stock pilots in pregens are 38

02337 · October 17th, 2012, 07:14 AM

So just an update I've tried many different configurations, every main jet, with 0-2 washers on each jet.
What I found works best is 112 main with 2 washers. But I feel like its underpowered at the top end. It was 42 this morning bike fully warmed up and wouldn't budge past 85. Now I've had this bike at 90+ in hotter conditions. I'm about 210 in my cold gear about 205 in normal gear.
The bike just stops pulling, is this due to the pod filters? Or the main jet running too rich? Only reason I'm at the 108 is due to the fact that with every other jet the bike would stutter and break up at part throttle just when the needle started to rise. So I figured having a bigger jet = more fuel coming past te needle the stop he breaking up.

Anytime I put 3 washers under the needles with the 108's or 110's bike would bog incredibly under 4 k and barely move.(maybe my washers were too tall?)

Thoughts? At this moment bike has no stumbles anywhere

rabies · October 17th, 2012, 07:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 02337

Maybe I'll go back to no washers and play around with the mixture screws a bit

this. lots of people adust the mixture and leave it and never go back to it
i did this with my bike also intake./exhaust then jetting.
i stil have work to do to it but the colder it is out the less power it hass. when the motor is hot and temp is warms seems like a different engine.

when hot and warmed up . go driviing. and put your choke on..see what happens. my stumbles,.
also when i start my bike i dont even need the choke.. hope this helps some

choneofakind · October 17th, 2012, 11:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 02337

So just an update I've tried many different configurations, every main jet, with 0-2 washers on each jet.
What I found works best is 112 main with 2 washers. But I feel like its underpowered at the top end. It was 42 this morning bike fully warmed up and wouldn't budge past 85. Now I've had this bike at 90+ in hotter conditions. I'm about 210 in my cold gear about 205 in normal gear.
The bike just stops pulling, is this due to the pod filters? Or the main jet running too rich? Only reason I'm at the 108 is due to the fact that with every other jet the bike would stutter and break up at part throttle just when the needle started to rise. So I figured having a bigger jet = more fuel coming past te needle the stop he breaking up.

Anytime I put 3 washers under the needles with the 108's or 110's bike would bog incredibly under 4 k and barely move.(maybe my washers were too tall?)

Thoughts? At this moment bike has no stumbles anywhere

Try this thing one variable at a time. Stick 2 washers on for the moment.

Test the main jets. If it feels lacking and mushy with a 112, you're rich. Go down to a 110. Then try a 108. Worry only about how the bike feels at WOT and 7k-rev-limiter.

once you find a main that works, worry about the washers. Try one. Try two. Try 3, try 4. Go to the number that works the best.

You're trying too many things at a time, and in the wrong order

02337 · October 17th, 2012, 12:20 PM

Well the problem was that anymore than 2 washers with the 110 jets that felt the best would be undrivae as it would barely move it was so rich, maybe my needles stuck with those particular washers.

rabies · October 17th, 2012, 12:29 PM

carb cleaner. you need to carb/break cleaner that whole set of carbs. minus the rubber top part and gasket rubber. there wont be any gunk after that. or any sticking.
i used carb cleaner on the outside and they look brand new now.

but if its still rich go down to 108 jets....then do washers right?

02337 · October 17th, 2012, 12:31 PM

Carbs sat brake cleaner overnight, multiple times. Bike ran great prior to airbox removal

choneofakind · October 17th, 2012, 12:33 PM

Again, do the main jet first. THEN the washers. The main jet has most control at WOT. You test it by doing WOT to redline tests, and see which pulls best. THEN start varying the amount of washers.

The needle height does not affect the performance of the main jet at WOT and high rpm's, because at WOT, the needle is completely backed out of the main jet, and the main jet is completely open.

Also, 02337, can you please explain what your last post meant? I'm lost on what you're trying to say. Which main jet was rich? Which main jet was un-drive-able?

02337 · October 17th, 2012, 12:39 PM

105's 0 washers through 2 washers bike broke up, 3 washers and bike would barely run.

108's ran better at WOT but topped out around 90.. Midrange still stumbled with 0-2 washers. 3 was too boggy to move.

110's ran great WOT bike moved appropriately had it over 90. Mid range stumbled with 0-2 washers, 3 was too boggy to move.

Im currently running 112's runs ok at wot but tops out 85 feels drowned out a bit lacking power. With 2 washers there no midrange stumble like the other jets.

October 2nd, 2012, 06:47 PM	#1
02337 ninjette.org member Name: George Location: Delaware Join Date: Aug 2012 Motorcycle(s): 03 ninja 250 Posts: 201	Jetting reassurance So I've drilled out the rivets on my exhaust and shimmed the needle, bike ran great. Decided to do uni pods and purchased some main jets, bought 110,112, and 115(thought they were 108's :/) I decided to start with the 110's I put it on with no washers and it bogged a little with no washers, so I tried upping the washers one at a time to a total of 3, bike didn't like it as it bogged/stumbled more in the mid range, runs great at full throttle really pulls hard, compared to before... So my thinking is to get the 108's and start shimming the needles to its fine tuned. My question is this though, with moving down a main jet size will it cause the upper rpm full throttle to now be lean? I thought shimming the needles was mainly mid range. Thoughts?

October 2nd, 2012, 07:11 PM	#2
Jiggles Jigglin' your Jiglets Name: Sean Location: San Jose, Ca Join Date: Jun 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2009 K1300S, 2013 Ninja 300, 2011 Ninja 250R, Faster than Unregistered's ninjette Posts: Too much. Blog Entries: 1 MOTM - Apr '13	What exhaust do you have? And what mains are you using? __________________________________________________ If the Ninja 250 doesn't have enough power for you, then you don't know how to ride it. AFM #676 Supersports are for n00bs

October 2nd, 2012, 07:17 PM	#3
alex.s wat Name: wat Location: tustin/long beach Join Date: Sep 2009 Motorcycle(s): wat Posts: Too much. Blog Entries: 5 MOTM - Oct '12, Feb '14	Sounds too rich __________________________________________________

October 2nd, 2012, 07:24 PM	#6
alex.s wat Name: wat Location: tustin/long beach Join Date: Sep 2009 Motorcycle(s): wat Posts: Too much. Blog Entries: 5 MOTM - Oct '12, Feb '14	Hard to say if your main jet is correct. Dropping the needle will lean the midrange independently of the wot metering. Putting shims on the needle raises it and makes it more rich __________________________________________________

October 2nd, 2012, 07:24 PM	#7
Jiggles Jigglin' your Jiglets Name: Sean Location: San Jose, Ca Join Date: Jun 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2009 K1300S, 2013 Ninja 300, 2011 Ninja 250R, Faster than Unregistered's ninjette Posts: Too much. Blog Entries: 1 MOTM - Apr '13	110 whats though? __________________________________________________ If the Ninja 250 doesn't have enough power for you, then you don't know how to ride it. AFM #676 Supersports are for n00bs

October 2nd, 2012, 07:19 PM	#5
02337 ninjette.org member Name: George Location: Delaware Join Date: Aug 2012 Motorcycle(s): 03 ninja 250 Posts: 201	Figuring its too rich in the partial throttle mid range. But I'm concerned with how good the bike feels in the full throttle upper rpms. If I drop one size smaller main jet and shim the needle will it have negative effects on full throttle upper rpms?

October 2nd, 2012, 07:28 PM	#9
02337 ninjette.org member Name: George Location: Delaware Join Date: Aug 2012 Motorcycle(s): 03 ninja 250 Posts: 201	The 110s I purchased from my dealer for the keihin carb. If wot is great with the 110's is it possible to lean the midrange farther out even with no shims under the needles? Maybe I'll add a few more washers to make sure I'm not misreading it and it's actually lean.

October 2nd, 2012, 07:40 PM	#10
alex.s wat Name: wat Location: tustin/long beach Join Date: Sep 2009 Motorcycle(s): wat Posts: Too much. Blog Entries: 5 MOTM - Oct '12, Feb '14	If it got worse when you added washers the first time, adding more won't help. It's possible your pilot jet is too large. Maybe you need aftermarket needles __________________________________________________

October 2nd, 2012, 07:47 PM	#11
02337 ninjette.org member Name: George Location: Delaware Join Date: Aug 2012 Motorcycle(s): 03 ninja 250 Posts: 201	Maybe I'll go back to no washers and play around with the mixture screws a bit

October 2nd, 2012, 08:00 PM	#12
Jiggles Jigglin' your Jiglets Name: Sean Location: San Jose, Ca Join Date: Jun 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2009 K1300S, 2013 Ninja 300, 2011 Ninja 250R, Faster than Unregistered's ninjette Posts: Too much. Blog Entries: 1 MOTM - Apr '13	I think you are WAY too rich considering you have a stock can __________________________________________________ If the Ninja 250 doesn't have enough power for you, then you don't know how to ride it. AFM #676 Supersports are for n00bs

October 2nd, 2012, 08:03 PM	#13
02337 ninjette.org member Name: George Location: Delaware Join Date: Aug 2012 Motorcycle(s): 03 ninja 250 Posts: 201	Rich in the midrange, upper rpms feel better than they did at stock, I'll try out the 108's tomorrow and see what I can come up with, I though removing the airbox and going with pods would require quite a big jump in main jets regardless of exhaust.

October 2nd, 2012, 09:24 PM	#14
choneofakind ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: . Location: . Join Date: Feb 2011 Motorcycle(s): . Posts: Too much. MOTM - Feb '13, Feb '14	I think 108's will be better. FWIW, I was running slip-ons and a completely opened intake lid with 108's and the bike ran freakin great edited for thought completion. Last futzed with by choneofakind; October 3rd, 2012 at 10:34 AM.

October 3rd, 2012, 10:34 AM	#16
choneofakind ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: . Location: . Join Date: Feb 2011 Motorcycle(s): . Posts: Too much. MOTM - Feb '13, Feb '14	derp. fixed.

October 3rd, 2012, 07:39 PM	#17
02337 ninjette.org member Name: George Location: Delaware Join Date: Aug 2012 Motorcycle(s): 03 ninja 250 Posts: 201	Dealer had 107.5s I put in bike still pulls as great in the upper, I screwed out the mixture screws a bit and it. Started bogging under light load and throttle blip(rich) mid range starts popping a bit so I'm thinking tomorrow in going to shim the needles and see where that gets me. Concur?

October 3rd, 2012, 09:53 PM	#18
choneofakind ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: . Location: . Join Date: Feb 2011 Motorcycle(s): . Posts: Too much. MOTM - Feb '13, Feb '14	1) I've had various sources call those different names. 107.5 or 108's... whatever, they're the same one from what I can tell. 2) If it's bogging under small openings, turn the mix screws in 1/4 turn. 3) yes, popping mid-throttle from opening/closing the throttle partially means that you need 1 or 2 washers on the needles. With my setup, I ended up at 108 mains, 3 washers on the needles, and just over 2.5 turns out with the mix screws. I think you're likely going to end up in the same neighborhood based on your main jet selection. But still find the combo that works best for your bike! You sound like you're in the right track so far.

October 4th, 2012, 12:51 PM	#19
02337 ninjette.org member Name: George Location: Delaware Join Date: Aug 2012 Motorcycle(s): 03 ninja 250 Posts: 201	I shimmed the needles up to 3 and it's responding better and better but I'm still getting a little pop when there's throttle roll on in the midrange. I forgot to sync the carbs after I installed the pod filters so I'm going to do that tonight and pretty much start over :/

October 4th, 2012, 12:53 PM	#20
choneofakind ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: . Location: . Join Date: Feb 2011 Motorcycle(s): . Posts: Too much. MOTM - Feb '13, Feb '14	Sync them and see how it goes. syncing is part of the jetting process anyways whenever I change my jetting, I get it so it feels right, and then sync to make sure everything is peachy. I don't think syncing will make you have to start over at all.

October 4th, 2012, 01:30 PM	#21
02337 ninjette.org member Name: George Location: Delaware Join Date: Aug 2012 Motorcycle(s): 03 ninja 250 Posts: 201	I'm hoping I won't have to start over. My final question is this, does mixture screws have any thing to do with mixture other than at idle, as in does mixture screws have any effect on part throttle or slight throttle? Also when I see people referring to turn the mixture screws out 2 1/2 turns are they referring to 2 and 1/2 complete rotations of the screw? Or only 180 degrees per "turn"?

October 4th, 2012, 01:35 PM	#22
choneofakind ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: . Location: . Join Date: Feb 2011 Motorcycle(s): . Posts: Too much. MOTM - Feb '13, Feb '14	360 degrees is "one turn" The mix screws and pilot jets have the largest effect at idle. They technically have a small effect everywhere else in the rpm/throttle range, but it's so small that it's not a huge deal. There's a couple different schools of thought on whether the mix screws should be tuned first or last. Both seem to work. My experience is with finding the main jets, then the needle height, then the pilot jets/mix screws.

October 5th, 2012, 08:29 AM	#23
02337 ninjette.org member Name: George Location: Delaware Join Date: Aug 2012 Motorcycle(s): 03 ninja 250 Posts: 201	When I pulled the tops of the carbs to reshim the needles today I noticed the washers had gotten stuck in the plastic piece that sits at the bottom of the spring. I think this may of been causing issues so I replaced the top washer with one that is a little wider so it can't get stuck. Same thickness. So now if this has been happening all along I guess I gotta start back at 1 washer and work my way back up.

October 5th, 2012, 09:30 AM	#24
02337 ninjette.org member Name: George Location: Delaware Join Date: Aug 2012 Motorcycle(s): 03 ninja 250 Posts: 201	First good update, 107.5 mains and no washers, and 2 and 1/2 turn out bike is running 10x better but there's a ever so slight little stumble at 6k with slight slight throttle. I wouldn't notice it unless I was really trying to find it. I'm gonna turn the mix screws out a little and see if that cures it. Thanks for all the help, I see a wideband being installed in my future!

October 5th, 2012, 09:42 AM	#25
alex.s wat Name: wat Location: tustin/long beach Join Date: Sep 2009 Motorcycle(s): wat Posts: Too much. Blog Entries: 5 MOTM - Oct '12, Feb '14	stumble means rich. low power means lean. turn the screw in half a turn. __________________________________________________

October 5th, 2012, 09:47 AM	#26
02337 ninjette.org member Name: George Location: Delaware Join Date: Aug 2012 Motorcycle(s): 03 ninja 250 Posts: 201	If I were to get it right would it be worth my while to throw the 110 back in and try to fine tune it again? The 110 ran great at wide open throttle but stumbled at part throttle with no shims.

October 5th, 2012, 09:48 AM	#27
alex.s wat Name: wat Location: tustin/long beach Join Date: Sep 2009 Motorcycle(s): wat Posts: Too much. Blog Entries: 5 MOTM - Oct '12, Feb '14	that means you need a smaller pilot jet. __________________________________________________

October 5th, 2012, 11:39 AM	#28
02337 ninjette.org member Name: George Location: Delaware Join Date: Aug 2012 Motorcycle(s): 03 ninja 250 Posts: 201	Smaller than stock pilot jet? I thought they already came lean as it was. I also noticed lack of top end on the bike. Really didn't want move past 90. I suppose there's some matatical arithmetic that explains why losing the stock airbox and snorkel results in less velocity at part throttle which explains the smaller pilot jet? Going to switch back to the 110 as it was noticeably more powerful at full throttle. Am I on the right track here or completely off?

October 5th, 2012, 11:45 AM	#29
alex.s wat Name: wat Location: tustin/long beach Join Date: Sep 2009 Motorcycle(s): wat Posts: Too much. Blog Entries: 5 MOTM - Oct '12, Feb '14	changing the pilot jet will effect which main jet you need. if 110 is good right now and you decrease the pilot jet, its possible you will need to put in a larger main jet. i personally think the ideal tuning route is get your pilot setup correctly then setup the main jet then tune the needle. though, i know some people (including 'professional' tuners) disagree on that though. though i have never heard a real reason on why you would tune main jet first then pilot jet. just the reason of "thats how you do it". i guess blind trust is good enough for most people. __________________________________________________

October 5th, 2012, 12:19 PM	#30
02337 ninjette.org member Name: George Location: Delaware Join Date: Aug 2012 Motorcycle(s): 03 ninja 250 Posts: 201	I appreciate it so is there any chance you could rattle off the pilot size of the stock pregen? Pardon my lazyness. Currently I'm on the 108. I'll be putting the 110 back in as it felt better at wide open, I think the smaller pilot with 110 will really get the results I'm looking for. Im glad you can take the time for me, as Jetting over forums isn't ideal

October 5th, 2012, 12:24 PM	#31
alex.s wat Name: wat Location: tustin/long beach Join Date: Sep 2009 Motorcycle(s): wat Posts: Too much. Blog Entries: 5 MOTM - Oct '12, Feb '14	No idea. __________________________________________________

October 6th, 2012, 08:01 AM	#32
choneofakind ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: . Location: . Join Date: Feb 2011 Motorcycle(s): . Posts: Too much. MOTM - Feb '13, Feb '14	I think stock pilots in pregens are 38

October 17th, 2012, 07:14 AM	#33
02337 ninjette.org member Name: George Location: Delaware Join Date: Aug 2012 Motorcycle(s): 03 ninja 250 Posts: 201	So just an update I've tried many different configurations, every main jet, with 0-2 washers on each jet. What I found works best is 112 main with 2 washers. But I feel like its underpowered at the top end. It was 42 this morning bike fully warmed up and wouldn't budge past 85. Now I've had this bike at 90+ in hotter conditions. I'm about 210 in my cold gear about 205 in normal gear. The bike just stops pulling, is this due to the pod filters? Or the main jet running too rich? Only reason I'm at the 108 is due to the fact that with every other jet the bike would stutter and break up at part throttle just when the needle started to rise. So I figured having a bigger jet = more fuel coming past te needle the stop he breaking up. Anytime I put 3 washers under the needles with the 108's or 110's bike would bog incredibly under 4 k and barely move.(maybe my washers were too tall?) Thoughts? At this moment bike has no stumbles anywhere

October 17th, 2012, 12:20 PM	#36
02337 ninjette.org member Name: George Location: Delaware Join Date: Aug 2012 Motorcycle(s): 03 ninja 250 Posts: 201	Well the problem was that anymore than 2 washers with the 110 jets that felt the best would be undrivae as it would barely move it was so rich, maybe my needles stuck with those particular washers.

October 17th, 2012, 12:29 PM	#37
rabies time is running out.... Name: jesse Location: the land of corn Join Date: Sep 2012 Motorcycle(s): pregen ninjari Posts: 412 Blog Entries: 3	carb cleaner. you need to carb/break cleaner that whole set of carbs. minus the rubber top part and gasket rubber. there wont be any gunk after that. or any sticking. i used carb cleaner on the outside and they look brand new now. but if its still rich go down to 108 jets....then do washers right? __________________________________________________ The King

October 17th, 2012, 12:31 PM	#38
02337 ninjette.org member Name: George Location: Delaware Join Date: Aug 2012 Motorcycle(s): 03 ninja 250 Posts: 201	Carbs sat brake cleaner overnight, multiple times. Bike ran great prior to airbox removal

October 17th, 2012, 12:33 PM	#39
choneofakind ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: . Location: . Join Date: Feb 2011 Motorcycle(s): . Posts: Too much. MOTM - Feb '13, Feb '14	Again, do the main jet first. THEN the washers. The main jet has most control at WOT. You test it by doing WOT to redline tests, and see which pulls best. THEN start varying the amount of washers. The needle height does not affect the performance of the main jet at WOT and high rpm's, because at WOT, the needle is completely backed out of the main jet, and the main jet is completely open. Also, 02337, can you please explain what your last post meant? I'm lost on what you're trying to say. Which main jet was rich? Which main jet was un-drive-able?

October 17th, 2012, 12:39 PM	#40
02337 ninjette.org member Name: George Location: Delaware Join Date: Aug 2012 Motorcycle(s): 03 ninja 250 Posts: 201	105's 0 washers through 2 washers bike broke up, 3 washers and bike would barely run. 108's ran better at WOT but topped out around 90.. Midrange still stumbled with 0-2 washers. 3 was too boggy to move. 110's ran great WOT bike moved appropriately had it over 90. Mid range stumbled with 0-2 washers, 3 was too boggy to move. Im currently running 112's runs ok at wot but tops out 85 feels drowned out a bit lacking power. With 2 washers there no midrange stumble like the other jets.