September 1st, 2018, 08:56 AM | #1 |
ninjette.org member
Name: parker
Location: STL
Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): 09 n250, 14 n300, 22 n400 Posts: 98
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carb pod filter brace?
hi all, thought I'd ask before wrapping my head around the idea of bracing the carb/ K&N pod filter assembly to the frame- has anyone else seen a solution?
my immediate throughts are: 1. cut up OEM airbox to utilize existing frame mounting? 2. I do not want to support from below (engine/ trans= heat source). tia, parker |
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September 1st, 2018, 05:00 PM | #2 |
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Name: michael
Location: Central Georgia
Join Date: May 2013 Motorcycle(s): 2019 Ninja 400, Sold 2012 Ninja 650, Sold 2009 Ninja 250r, Sold 2007 DRZ400s Posts: 628
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I wondered the same thing. My carbs bounced around like jello on a washing machine.
I recently shoved the stock airbox back in and couldn't be happier. I took the snorkel out too. |
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September 2nd, 2018, 02:52 AM | #3 |
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Name: maverick9611
Location: Augusta,Georgia
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i did this on my zrx 1200
pods don't work. i tried for 11 straight months and got nowhere. sure you can give it fat jets to cover fuel transitions/holes but it's not right. i tested my theory by pulling godzilla's stock factory clean carbs(plus a couple of shims under needles)and mounting them on red bike with pods. ran like total crap. left carbs in place and installed airbox. ran completely normal.
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September 2nd, 2018, 04:30 AM | #4 |
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So you confirmed that lean AFR doesn't run well by adding more air with a pod filter and not changing the fueling of a factory carburetor.
Thanks, captain obvious. |
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September 2nd, 2018, 05:36 AM | #5 |
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Name: maverick9611
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i got it to run with 100's but had to put fp needles at max gas plus shims. problem is transitions between mid to mains and cruise mod. 9000 rpm. this holes can be covered put it takes 108 or higher to do it. our needle profile needs to be custom made. i tried for 11 months straight with the help of dannoxyz but never got something stable. he pushed hard to put godzilla's factory carbs on red bike to get a base line i finally did it last week. ran terrible.
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September 2nd, 2018, 06:00 AM | #6 |
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I do know what you're talking about, I just don't think it's as dramatic as you seem to because it can easily be tuned out. I will admit, there's a good chance that the pregen needles were more accepting of pods in their taper profile than newgen needles, so maybe my experience base is off a little. I'm willing to admit that.
Have you played with spring rates in the slides? This seems like one of the very few scenarios where fiddling with the spring rate might improve things. If you want to change the lift of that needle under certain dynamic scenarios (read: shimming it out isn't right here) because you want to perfect the transition rather than just broadly add fuel to the whole mid range, that might be the way to go. Time to science what spring rate and relaxed length the spring is now, then see about changing it a little. See if you can get a couple springs that are 5-10% either direction stiffer or softer and see how the slides respond in that transition. Make sense? Danno seems like the type of guy where this might be right up his alley. The other thing you can do is get creative with some aluminum sheeting and a pop rivet gun and make a 5 sided "airbox" around the pod filter that mounts on the same clamps that the filter itself uses to at least get the filter breathing out of an air cavity that has a little more consistent airflow. The issue here isn't the pod filter itself, the issue is that the flow/mixing isn't consistent like it is in the airbox. |
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September 2nd, 2018, 11:42 AM | #7 |
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Name: maverick9611
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good idea, i thought about a house to help smooth air but i’m taking a break and enjoy red. it’s been down more than up.
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September 20th, 2018, 04:49 PM | #8 |
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Name: Rob
Location: Winnipeg
Join Date: Oct 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2003 ZX12R (sold), 2012 250R, 1975 Honda XL250, 1980 XJ650 Posts: 99
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I went the simple route and linked I believe 4 zipties together and ran it from both sides of the frame to support the carbs. Been working well the last 2 years.
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September 20th, 2018, 05:26 PM | #9 |
ninjette.org member
Name: parker
Location: STL
Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): 09 n250, 14 n300, 22 n400 Posts: 98
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September 21st, 2018, 10:02 AM | #10 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Rob
Location: Winnipeg
Join Date: Oct 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2003 ZX12R (sold), 2012 250R, 1975 Honda XL250, 1980 XJ650 Posts: 99
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None whatsoever. I just figured since I was in there rejetting and stuff, I might as well support the carbs. I believe I had put the K&N filter on a month or 2 earlier. If memory serves me, I believe this was fall 2016
I get zip ties free from work, so it was quick, cheap, easy and pretty much an endless supply. |
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September 21st, 2018, 11:08 AM | #11 |
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Location: WI
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I have a screw in the frame cross member right above the pod, with a length of twisted safety wire holding up the carbs. I left a little slack to allow for vibration, but at least the carbs cannot fall out of the boots!
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September 22nd, 2018, 03:16 AM | #12 |
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Name: maverick9611
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pic?
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October 15th, 2018, 04:54 AM | #13 |
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sure! just give me a couple days
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November 3rd, 2018, 09:00 AM | #14 |
ninjette.org member
Name: parker
Location: STL
Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): 09 n250, 14 n300, 22 n400 Posts: 98
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here's what i did on my '09. just 1 large zip tie around the filter flanges, and another to lift that to the upper frame. I'll likely use the opposite side of that frame half next time just to clear where the fuel line and vacuum tap go into the tank. but on second thought the other side is the electrical connector for the gauge reading so use your own judgement.
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