02 R6 problems with the regulator rectifier

kawagirl · January 8th, 2013, 05:44 AM

A couple months back my bike broke down. I took it in and they said my stator and regulator rectifier had gone bad. It had even melted the wires between the 2 completely off as well as the plug and harness. They replaced all that and it drove fine until now. I had my brother check it and the wires are melted again leading up to the rectifier. Any idea what keeps causing the rectifier and stator to go bad?? has this happened to anyone else?

EsrTek · January 8th, 2013, 05:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blue03r6
the 99-02 R6 was known for bad regulators and burnt wires at the plug.

http://www.r6-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=103512

Sry gettin ready for work, no time, try to see if that gets you any help.

rojoracing53 · January 8th, 2013, 06:01 AM

Does your bike start fine and is your battery still good. I ask because when I pulled the battery from my wr250(uses a standard streetbike starting & charging system ) it fried my rectifier. Before I knew my recifier was bad I pluged back in my battery because I though that might be causing my high rpm problems and the bad recifier killed my battery. I ended up replacing my battery with a 50volt capacitor because my fried rectifier now sends 23volts through my chafing system which kills any 12v battery. This won't work for you since you don't have a kick starter.

I know its not the same bike but I'm just saying when it comes to electrical one problem can cause a another problem and so on.

kawagirl · January 8th, 2013, 06:19 AM

Thanks for the responses. I too am leaving for work, but I will definitely look into both of these this evening. My battery was completely drained the first time. They were able to recharge it at the shop. This time, it was the first sign something was wrong, the battery kept dying.

Thanks again! off to work I go.

rojoracing53 · January 8th, 2013, 06:36 AM

I'm 99% sure you "can't" properly check your charging system with a bad battery so I'd make sure you get that solved first. Ether buy a new battery or take it to be test at your local auto parts store(normally done for free). Once your sure your battery it good then check to see what your charging system is running at. I don't remember if you can just check it at the battery terminals or if its better to check at the recifiers. I used my Yamaha servise manual to find the proper method for my bike.

Unfortunately not all servise tech are great because if one is they usually get snatched up by corporate and given a better job overseeing the other mechanics that aren't as good. This is just speculation but your recifier may have gone bad and damaged your battery and fired your cables, shop replaces everything but the bad battery so the bad battery(same as no battery) then kills your retifier like mine did. You end up with same results even though your original cause of the problem was different each time.

Good luck

SabreValkyrn · January 8th, 2013, 04:04 PM

My friend had this exact same problem. We tried incremental repairs and just wasted money.

Split the wiring harness, replace all related wiring and plugs between battery, rectifier, and stator. Don't do a partial job. $60-80 mistakes hurt a lot.

Again, replace it all in one go. Don't do it pieces. I can't stress that enough.

alex.s · January 8th, 2013, 05:58 PM

its a popular problem with older yamahas. not sure which type of regulator you have but it should have a dedicated ground wire... if it doesnt and instead gets ground through the case/frame of the VRR then just toss the thing and buy a newer one with 5 wires instead of 4. (3 in from the stator, positive out, dedicated ground wire.) if wire has melted, it means it got too hot. too hot means too much current going through it for the resistance being applied... which means that either your a: battery is damaged and shorting internally (not likely if they tested and charged the battery at the shop on the battery tender)... or b: the shunts in your VRR aren't opening, overcharging the battery, blowing out the wiring (unlikely since you replaced with a new VRR) ... or c: you have a short somewhere else in the bike. unless the stator isn't a stock replacement... aftermarket stators could put out too much power causing the same issue but it is unlikely that they replaced the old stator with something that far out of spec if it is a reputable mechanic

also, i don't agree with the whole "just replace the entire set of electrics". instead i say test each component. know what you are fixing, dont just blindly wipe over your mistakes.

January 8th, 2013, 05:44 AM	#1
kawagirl ninjette.org member Name: Dayna Location: Forsyth, MO Join Date: Jun 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja (retired), 2002 Yamaha R6 and 2007 CBR 600RR Posts: 78	02 R6 problems with the regulator rectifier A couple months back my bike broke down. I took it in and they said my stator and regulator rectifier had gone bad. It had even melted the wires between the 2 completely off as well as the plug and harness. They replaced all that and it drove fine until now. I had my brother check it and the wires are melted again leading up to the rectifier. Any idea what keeps causing the rectifier and stator to go bad?? has this happened to anyone else?

January 8th, 2013, 05:58 PM	#7
alex.s wat Name: wat Location: tustin/long beach Join Date: Sep 2009 Motorcycle(s): wat Posts: Too much. Blog Entries: 5 MOTM - Oct '12, Feb '14	its a popular problem with older yamahas. not sure which type of regulator you have but it should have a dedicated ground wire... if it doesnt and instead gets ground through the case/frame of the VRR then just toss the thing and buy a newer one with 5 wires instead of 4. (3 in from the stator, positive out, dedicated ground wire.) if wire has melted, it means it got too hot. too hot means too much current going through it for the resistance being applied... which means that either your a: battery is damaged and shorting internally (not likely if they tested and charged the battery at the shop on the battery tender)... or b: the shunts in your VRR aren't opening, overcharging the battery, blowing out the wiring (unlikely since you replaced with a new VRR) ... or c: you have a short somewhere else in the bike. unless the stator isn't a stock replacement... aftermarket stators could put out too much power causing the same issue but it is unlikely that they replaced the old stator with something that far out of spec if it is a reputable mechanic also, i don't agree with the whole "just replace the entire set of electrics". instead i say test each component. know what you are fixing, dont just blindly wipe over your mistakes. __________________________________________________

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January 8th, 2013, 06:01 AM	#3
rojoracing53 Fast-Guy wannabe Name: Jason Location: Brentwood, Ca Join Date: Oct 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja250, 2011 RM-Z250, 2004 NSR50, Posts: A lot. MOTM - Jan '13	Does your bike start fine and is your battery still good. I ask because when I pulled the battery from my wr250(uses a standard streetbike starting & charging system ) it fried my rectifier. Before I knew my recifier was bad I pluged back in my battery because I though that might be causing my high rpm problems and the bad recifier killed my battery. I ended up replacing my battery with a 50volt capacitor because my fried rectifier now sends 23volts through my chafing system which kills any 12v battery. This won't work for you since you don't have a kick starter. I know its not the same bike but I'm just saying when it comes to electrical one problem can cause a another problem and so on.

January 8th, 2013, 06:19 AM	#4
kawagirl ninjette.org member Name: Dayna Location: Forsyth, MO Join Date: Jun 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja (retired), 2002 Yamaha R6 and 2007 CBR 600RR Posts: 78	Thanks for the responses. I too am leaving for work, but I will definitely look into both of these this evening. My battery was completely drained the first time. They were able to recharge it at the shop. This time, it was the first sign something was wrong, the battery kept dying. Thanks again! off to work I go.

January 8th, 2013, 06:36 AM	#5
rojoracing53 Fast-Guy wannabe Name: Jason Location: Brentwood, Ca Join Date: Oct 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja250, 2011 RM-Z250, 2004 NSR50, Posts: A lot. MOTM - Jan '13	I'm 99% sure you "can't" properly check your charging system with a bad battery so I'd make sure you get that solved first. Ether buy a new battery or take it to be test at your local auto parts store(normally done for free). Once your sure your battery it good then check to see what your charging system is running at. I don't remember if you can just check it at the battery terminals or if its better to check at the recifiers. I used my Yamaha servise manual to find the proper method for my bike. Unfortunately not all servise tech are great because if one is they usually get snatched up by corporate and given a better job overseeing the other mechanics that aren't as good. This is just speculation but your recifier may have gone bad and damaged your battery and fired your cables, shop replaces everything but the bad battery so the bad battery(same as no battery) then kills your retifier like mine did. You end up with same results even though your original cause of the problem was different each time. Good luck

January 8th, 2013, 04:04 PM	#6
SabreValkyrn ninjette.org member Name: Joel Location: Bellingham, wa Join Date: Mar 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2017 Motus MSTR (Kara), 1990 Ninja 600R (ZX600C3) (Scrappy) Posts: 185	My friend had this exact same problem. We tried incremental repairs and just wasted money. Split the wiring harness, replace all related wiring and plugs between battery, rectifier, and stator. Don't do a partial job. $60-80 mistakes hurt a lot. Again, replace it all in one go. Don't do it pieces. I can't stress that enough.