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Old March 8th, 2014, 04:20 PM   #1
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DIY - GSX-R Rear Shock

So I just finished installing my GSXR rear shock and promised I'd do a write up. Here it goes.

Things you'll need:
06-09 GSXR 600 Rear shock
New dogbones ( http://burkhartcycle.com/store/index...dex&cPath=7_34 )

A drill press with vice and 31/64th bit.
2x M12x120-130mm bolts with matching nuts.
4x M14 Nuts (perfect spacers)
1x M10 bolt with nut (length rougly the same as the top shock bolt)

Something to grind with, preferably a bench grinder. I only had a dremel and it SUCKED.

Let's begin:
Put the bike on stands and remove the fairings to include the tail section. Then remove the black plastic dirt guard. To remove that plastic piece the battery is going to have to come out and so is the battery box. Then just disconnect all the wiring from it and it should pull out the back when you unscrew it.

Now you need to find a way to suspend the bike without a rear stand that uses spools. Since you're going to be taking the suspension out you can't use the swing arm. I used jack stands under my rear sets. If you still have the stock folding style foot rests you're going to have to use a jack under the motor.

Then shove something under the tire to support it. The rear seat works perfect for this as you can see.




Now you can start removing the shock. Start at the bottom and remove the three bolts on the V shaped piece that attaches the shock, dog bones and frame. Then remove the single top bolt and it pulls right out.

This is the V shaped mount I talk about.



The next part is where it gets tricky for us normal folks. I'm sure this was nothing to people like alex.s and Rexbo but I don't have a machine shop on hand. I actually bought a drill press and vice for this occasion.

The bottom part of the shock where the dog bones will attach is for an M10 bolt. Our V shaped metal piece I talked about earlier is sleeved for M12. So we need to drill out the holes on each side to 31/64th. The best way to do this was on a drill press with an attached vice. You could probably get away with a drill and a vice though.

The top mount for the GSXR shock is an M10 also. The metal sleeve in the bushing is not very thick in the first place and I really didn't feel comfortable drilling all the way through it with a 31/64th bit so that's where the M10 bolt comes into play.

After we've drilled the holes on the bottom mount of the shock to the correct size, it's still too narrow on the inside to fit our stock mount in. This is where we have to grind until it fits together. I ground down some of the steel sleeve, some of the stock mount and some of the inside of the GSXR shock mount until it all fit together. There's really no easy way to get this done, it just took a lot of grinding and trial and error until it fit in there.

That's really the hardest part and once you have them fitting together you can go ahead and re-install in reverse. The dog bones will not clear the GSXR spring without some sort of spacer though. The M14 nuts work perfect for this and they're cheap.

So when you put the bottom back together 2 of the three holes in the V mount will have the stock hardware. The one hole where the dog bones hook up will have to look like this.

Bolt-Dogbone-M14nut-mount-M14nut-dogbone-M12nut


You're going to do this on both ends of the dog bones and it should clear perfectly. You'll see my bolts are slightly long but 130mm was the closest I could find that would work. 120-125 would probably be fine as well. If you notice you can't get the shock to line up for the dog bone holes, remove the seat from under the rear tire. This will drop the swing arm all the way down and then you can use your foot under the tire to adjust while you line up that hole.

Since the top mount on the frame is drilled for M12 but the GSXR shock is an M10 and we're using an M10 bolt, there's going to be a little play at the mounting holes when you put it in. I'm not concerned about it because the metal sleeve in the bushing of the shock is the correct size and we are going to tighten down the top bolt with the suspension LOADED. That way any play in the frame holes has been pushed up to the top of the hole and rebound alone while riding won't move it.




All bolted up.


I'm sure I'll think of some other stuff and add to this later to clean it up.
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Old March 8th, 2014, 05:48 PM   #2
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Good work

Question: is that a Shroeder valve on the canister at the top of the shock? What does adding air pressure do?
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Old March 8th, 2014, 05:56 PM   #3
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How come you need new dogbones to do this swap on the new gen 250? I replaced the rear shock on my 300 with a gsxr shock, and used the stock dogbones with no change in ride height.

Anyway, good work. It it a nice improvement over stock IMO.
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Old March 8th, 2014, 06:32 PM   #4
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I think the valve is for when you re do the internals and stuff.

The stock dog bones for the 250 will end up lowering it an inch or so.
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Old March 8th, 2014, 06:34 PM   #5
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Good work

Question: is that a Shroeder valve on the canister at the top of the shock? What does adding air pressure do?
That's where you fill in the nitrogen...
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Old March 8th, 2014, 07:25 PM   #6
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what length dog bones did you end up going with, how does the height compare to stock?
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Old March 8th, 2014, 08:20 PM   #7
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what length dog bones did you end up going with, how does the height compare to stock?
Its coming lol. I put the 1.25" on but as you can see the bike is still apart. I'm doing the front also. When I get the front done and put together I'll report back with the specs lol.
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Old March 9th, 2014, 06:41 PM   #8
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Old March 11th, 2014, 06:42 PM   #9
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Great so far but I am trying to see where you had to grind?
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Old March 11th, 2014, 06:57 PM   #10
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You have to grind the inside of the mounts on the shock. You don't need to grind much, an angle grinder worked for me.
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Old March 22nd, 2014, 06:38 PM   #11
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^ this

The y shaped metal piece on the bottom end of the shock. You need to take a little off the inside so it will fit around the stock knuckle

So i finished this up today. No huge surprises, i definitely ended up doing things a little different to say the least.

I couldn't find any 12mm bolts long enough anywhere, was thinking about using thread all but changed my mind. Stepped up to 1/2 inch. Drilled out the 2 steel spacers for the dog bones to 1/2", the steel spacer in the knuckle for the bottom of the shock. All the gsxr shock holes out to 1/2" and the stock top shock/frame bracket holes to 1/2"

Everything fits tight like a tiger with little play and that makes me happy, but i must say with that large diameter spring there is little to no clearance in a few places between spring and swing arm

kinda has me nervous.

had to trim up the bottom of the mud flap/battery box piece as well to clear top of shock
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Old March 22nd, 2014, 06:57 PM   #12
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Ya sorry forgot to say you have to trim the black plastic guard to about the first well nut set to get it to clear the reservoir.

I had to go to an Ace to find the M12 bolts.
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Old March 25th, 2014, 06:33 PM   #13
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All put back together now. I got the bolts from a local source (cost almost as much as the shock which was $23.11 shipped). I only had to cut back the flap to the point shown in your photo. No other mods were required to the airbox/battery box.

Rather than put new dogbones in I lowered the front by 1" (putting on vortex clip ons next week), and measured the drop on the rear which came out to 12mm. The slightly increased rake makes turning easier and did not detract from the high speed stability.

I spent the last couple of days dialing it in and it is AWESOME. The rear feels planted and exhibits no bad habits in turns. I get great feedback in the pegs as to what the rear is doing now. I had already put Sonic Springs in the front and changed to a heavier oil so the suspension feels much better balanced now.
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Old March 25th, 2014, 07:20 PM   #14
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All put back together now. I got the bolts from a local source (cost almost as much as the shock which was $23.11 shipped). I only had to cut back the flap to the point shown in your photo. No other mods were required to the airbox/battery box.

Rather than put new dogbones in I lowered the front by 1" (putting on vortex clip ons next week), and measured the drop on the rear which came out to 12mm. The slightly increased rake makes turning easier and did not detract from the high speed stability.

I spent the last couple of days dialing it in and it is AWESOME. The rear feels planted and exhibits no bad habits in turns. I get great feedback in the pegs as to what the rear is doing now. I had already put Sonic Springs in the front and changed to a heavier oil so the suspension feels much better balanced now.
Awesome! Good to hear more people knocking it out and enjoying all the benefits.
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Old April 8th, 2014, 10:31 AM   #15
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so...I just finished this mod....I ordered the raising dogbones and they didn't show up. I emailed the guy and he didn't respond, so I ended up putting it all back together with the stock dogbones.

I did the goldvalve and new springs in the forks at the same time.

In order to compensate for the geometry change, I left the forks sticking out of the top triple 20mm....is this too much?
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Old April 8th, 2014, 10:36 AM   #16
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^I ended up just making my own dog bones.

I think stock spec for the forks sticking out of the triple is around 12mm so you are only 8mm higher, should not be a big deal but is probably not ideal solution. I don't know a whole lot about rake ect...
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Old April 8th, 2014, 12:35 PM   #17
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so...I just finished this mod....I ordered the raising dogbones and they didn't show up. I emailed the guy and he didn't respond, so I ended up putting it all back together with the stock dogbones.

I did the goldvalve and new springs in the forks at the same time.

In order to compensate for the geometry change, I left the forks sticking out of the top triple 20mm....is this too much?
8mm is not a lot. People lower the front more than that. Give the dog bones some time. Not the best communication but they show up.
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Old April 8th, 2014, 12:45 PM   #18
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8mm is not a lot. People lower the front more than that. Give the dog bones some time. Not the best communication but they show up.
lmao....my son just picked up the package at the post office....I knew I shoulda waited

okay so my other question to you Tom....is the top bolt....The holes in the stock bracket was 12mm the gsxr shock could only take a 10mm bolt....is there any concern about play?
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Old April 8th, 2014, 01:02 PM   #19
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I didn't drill it out since that collar is so thin already, so I used a 10mm bolt. If you put the bolt in and then tighten it with the suspension loaded it shouldn't have any play. The rebound alone shouldn't be enough to pull it down. Its not a lot of play to begin with either.
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Old April 8th, 2014, 01:04 PM   #20
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I didn't drill it out since that collar is so thin already, so I used a 10mm bolt. If you put the bolt in and then tighten it with the suspension loaded it shouldn't have any play. The rebound alone shouldn't be enough to pull it down. Its not a lot of play to begin with either.

I did the same....tightened the **** out of it
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Old April 15th, 2014, 01:44 PM   #21
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GSXR Shock settings

Here's the Factory setting for the GSXR shock. Remember to adjust accordingly to your bike and weight. The reservoir is filled with nitrogen. Do not fill it with compressed air! Pressure should be about 180 PSI although I have seen somewhere ranges from 150 to 200 psi.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Suzuki_GSX-R_600_K6-K7 rear shock setting.pdf (58.8 KB, 147 views)
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Old April 17th, 2014, 07:20 PM   #22
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Honestly I fail to see why nitrogen is so important? MTB shocks do just fine at 150-200psi filled with air and they hold pressure for a long time.

I guess I'm just curious why nitrogen? Why not just get a small shock pump and adjust the pressure as needed.
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Old April 17th, 2014, 07:34 PM   #23
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Here's the Factory setting for the GSXR shock. Remember to adjust accordingly to your bike and weight. The reservoir is filled with nitrogen. Do not fill it with compressed air! Pressure should be about 180 PSI although I have seen somewhere ranges from 150 to 200 psi.
Even though nitrogen is recommended, even dry air can be used as an alternative. According to race tech it's 175psi nitrogen or 125psi air... Said air must be free of any kind of moisture...


Quote:
Originally Posted by choneofakind View Post
Honestly I fail to see why nitrogen is so important? MTB shocks do just fine at 150-200psi filled with air and they hold pressure for a long time.

I guess I'm just curious why nitrogen? Why not just get a small shock pump and adjust the pressure as needed.
I would think it's because nitrogen is more stable at different temperatures? You're the science kid, you should know
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Old April 17th, 2014, 09:13 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by psych0hans View Post
Even though nitrogen is recommended, even dry air can be used as an alternative. According to race tech it's 175psi nitrogen or 125psi air... Said air must be free of any kind of moisture...




I would think it's because nitrogen is more stable at different temperatures? You're the science kid, you should know
Good info Hans!
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Old April 21st, 2014, 06:33 PM   #25
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With this mod has anyone noticed a difference while riding with a passenger on the bike?
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Old April 21st, 2014, 06:37 PM   #26
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i don't ride 2 up but i can't imagine how you could not.

Stiffer spring and the ability to make adjustments with a twist of a screw driver.
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Old April 21st, 2014, 06:50 PM   #27
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I was thinking of doing this mod but was not sure if I should stick with the stock dog bones or not as I would be 190lbs with gear on my bike and looking at 320lbs with a passenger. I can get a 07 gsxr 750 shock for around $50 so i am tempted to try this mod.

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Old April 22nd, 2014, 05:35 AM   #28
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I was thinking of doing this mod but was not sure if I should stick with the stock dog bones or not as I would be 190lbs with gear on my bike and looking at 320lbs with a passenger. I can get a 07 gsxr 750 shock for around $50 so i am tempted to try this mod.
Pass on the $50 dollar shock, that is robbery. You can get one off ebay for $20-$30 I got an 08 or 09 750 shock for $23 and it was fairly mint.

I don't think you would hurt anything by using stock dog bones lots of people do it, but if that Burkhart guy is still making the riser ones I would just buy a set to get the bike back close to stock, but that is my preference. He sells them at a reasonable price like $20 if I remember right.

This is a pretty solid swap mode, just don't rush things, collect all the pieces and you should be able to knock it out quick. Don't substitute things from the original DIY IMO stick with what works particularly using the 31/64 bit to drill out the holes, and using 12mm bolts. You might have to hunt for a while until you find these pieces but it's the way to go.

If you have a drill press drilling out the top shock hole is non issue and I would rather do it than not do it.
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Old April 22nd, 2014, 09:27 AM   #29
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When i first started off with the GSXR shock mod, i was concerned with the material taken off when drilling the eyelet in order to to fit the mounting bolt. (just another avenue of thought)

So I pressed out the eyelet off the OEM ninja 250 shock and pressed it in the GSXR shock. I think i should put up my GSXR setup for sale.
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Old April 22nd, 2014, 09:46 AM   #30
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I'm selling a gsxr ohlins shock if anyone is interested 1000$ "only"
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Old April 22nd, 2014, 11:04 AM   #31
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I did the same....tightened the **** out of it
not to say this is wrong or will fail or any particular assurance like that, but my little brother, MKlein3004 on here, had to undo the 10mm bolt in the 12mm mount holes method as it was moving around in the rear at race pace on bumpy TX tracks with 200 lb rider regardless of how tight you made it.

Modified by welding 10 mm washers on to the mount.
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Old April 22nd, 2014, 11:24 AM   #32
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Would you guys say $40 cdn on a used 07 750 shock with 1000km on it is a fair price? For I can't seem to find anything lower then that locally. I have seen a few on ebay for less but with shipping it gets close to the same amount.
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Old April 22nd, 2014, 11:25 AM   #33
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MOTM - Aug '15
Quote:
Originally Posted by sharky nrk View Post
not to say this is wrong or will fail or any particular assurance like that, but my little brother, MKlein3004 on here, had to undo the 10mm bolt in the 12mm mount holes method as it was moving around in the rear at race pace on bumpy TX tracks with 200 lb rider regardless of how tight you made it.

Modified by welding 10 mm washers on to the mount.
Different bike, but the EX500 is known for keyholing the top shock mount holes if they're not completely tight, even with the stock parts.

I bought a 12mm reamer bit and used a drill press to enlarge the mounting holes in my SV shock. The metal bushing in the top mount had enough spare material that this was doable. The 12mm reamer actually resulted in tighter holes than the stock shock had.
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Old April 22nd, 2014, 12:55 PM   #34
ForceofWill
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Gonna buy one of these and cut segments off.

http://www.amazon.com/Carbon-Spanner.../dp/B00JMVDB3G
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Old April 23rd, 2014, 03:33 PM   #35
beniblanco
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Well I picked up the shock and was I wondering if anyone attempted or was thinking of painting their spring.
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Old April 23rd, 2014, 03:37 PM   #36
Red250R
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beniblanco View Post
Well I picked up the shock and was I wondering if anyone attempted or was thinking of painting their spring.
i was thinking the same thing. i used the search to see if anyone else did or even suggested that as well. no such luck tho.
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Old April 23rd, 2014, 04:38 PM   #37
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MOTM - Apr '14
i removed sanded and painted the gsxr spring that came with the shock i bought. Luckily the gsxr spring is easily removed and put back on unlike some other types of shocks

don't have a picture of gsxr shock but here is a picture of an R1 shock with a spring i painted. This spring was PITA to get on and off, needed spring compressor.
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Old April 23rd, 2014, 09:06 PM   #38
beniblanco
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Good job on the spring I was thinking to paint mine red to match the red cap on the top reservoir.
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Old April 23rd, 2014, 09:18 PM   #39
chugs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subxero View Post
i removed sanded and painted the gsxr spring that came with the shock i bought. Luckily the gsxr spring is easily removed and put back on unlike some other types of shocks

don't have a picture of gsxr shock but here is a picture of an R1 shock with a spring i painted. This spring was PITA to get on and off, needed spring compressor.
For the gsxr shock, just loosen up both ramp adjusters on the spring to remove the tension, then you can disassemble the lower end of the shock to remove the spring easily.
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Old April 24th, 2014, 06:26 AM   #40
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MOTM - Apr '14
^ yep
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