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Old January 13th, 2010, 10:29 PM   #81
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Remove one of the throttle cable (push) and that'll help with binding. One cable is fine.
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Old January 14th, 2010, 02:24 PM   #82
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Added another needle shim. Now the bike will make it to 8k, but it's a little stuttery. lol

No way around that main jet.

Gonna wait until all this carb tuning is done before I try the try the throttle mod again just so I don't have to worry about it for now. I put the stock throttle assembly back together until next time. I will try it again though, it will be good for making sure you have the throttle all the way open for wheelies.

I can tell the idle mixture and sync need to be adjusted. (Slight idle hang and lil funny idle) and When I finish the jets have to do it for sure. I finally spent the $30 for the milwuakee offset driver. I don't know how I'll tune idle mixture without it when the shogun sliders are in the way.

Yeah I know the gold shims are probably no good to have in there but they're coming out within a week max.
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Old January 15th, 2010, 06:17 AM   #83
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Instead of putting my brake line install pictures here..
I noticed Ninjette.org could use a Brake Bleeding and steel braided hose tutorial so posted my brake upgrade here.
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=35947
It's half way done with the rear brake line installed and tested. When I get my EBC HH pads in (maybe today) I will finish the tutorial with the front brake line and pads. Once done with the front line and tutorial I will return to my 2010 mod thread here to finish up my bike mods. =)

Thanks for stopping in folks. Having fun modifying my lil 250R.
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Old January 17th, 2010, 09:23 PM   #84
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I got lucky and Factory Pro shipped quick!
Had the jets and new needles in place in time to make the GMR ride on the 16th. (yesterday) Didn't get to adjust the float height, idle mixture or carb sync yet because I was running out of time! Really cut it close there like a scene out of one of those bike building shows

That was a fun learning experience. Can't wait until I have some free time to tune it! Got my "MOS" in the mail the other day too!

Here's some carb porn.

Sexy naked bike (yep, adding coolant is on my list.. I see it, I see it! lol)


New MOS and my right angle driver. Both excellent on this bike in different ways! That skill brand lithium driver is an exceptional tool as well and extremely strong for it's size. Fits the MOS..


Oh baby! My first self installed jet kit.
















new 110 jets


old jet and carrier






New jet


reinstalled


marked so I don't forget


other side


You could say I have a short memory


Needles and new sexy allen cap heads!
Don't forget to grab your ball drivers!


Current Shim position = 2 clips and 3 washers


No tears in my boots!


Dig the new heardware


My ball head driver is pointing to the carb sync screw in this pic, highlighted in yellow paint marker by the factory QC man. Will be playing with that soon.


Carbs back in place


Air filter back on and bike running again! Must have done something right!
Made sure to test ride it for a bit at different speeds to check that everything was working right.
The bike now pulls awesome to 13K easy, but haven't tried to bounce off my rev limiter yet (I never do that)


Then I gave her a bath before the ride on Saturday because she looked all dirty like this..
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Old January 24th, 2010, 10:24 AM   #85
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OK making a little progress last night and today. Also did a lot of reading on here, the service manual and the factory pro tuning sheet to put two and two together. Thank goodness for directions and this site.

I noticed riding it around yesterday from a weeks sit in the cold that it took forever to warm it up. Also, some hesitation/bog down around 3-5k and also less "umph" around 5-8k. Reminiscent of the stock lean bike. That's OK, we know how to fix that.

I could now also feel the transitions between the pilot jets, needles and main jets while accelerating. Pretty cool, but the throttle is not smooth. (akin to hitting v-tech once you get to higher RPM).

Since the bike pulls like a bat out of hell above 8k, I'll assume the main jets are good. (still have to read the plugs) I'm going to go to the fourth needle clip position to try and get some of my pull back in the mid range and smooth out the transitions between the mixes.

Will report how it feels on the fourth clip, then I'll go back to messing with idle mix and sync. (hopefully, if position four is right)

I gotta dig up a couple solid bottles with some rubber caps and some tubing..

(In the carb again)
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Old January 24th, 2010, 02:58 PM   #86
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4th needle clip position from the top and I no longer notice the transition between power bands. Much less noticeable and much more of a blended feel between 5-8k and 8-13k. Fires right up too and warms up quick.

I seems to have lost a slight amount of top end between 8-13K while improving the mid range and transition. Interesting response! Carb tuning is crazy.

I also spent the majority of the day teaching myself how to adjust the mixture screws. It was quite frustrating until I took a lunch break realized two things. 1) Don't let the bike get too hot while your adjusting it cause it'll start doing funny things and you'll falsely adjust the mix screw and 2) Instead of going by blips and by ear right off the bat, try 2.5 turns out on both screws and go from there.

I started by just turning the screw in until the throttle died off and then backing it out some but that put me at .75 turns out on the right screw and 1.75 turns out on the left screw. This led me to drop my idle speed, in turn making it further harder to adjust the mixture and the bike was running like crap. I started to get worried and took that lunch break to calm down.

What I had to do was set both mixture screws to 2.5 turns out, at which point my idle speed increased slightly, and I dropped it back down with the idle speed knob. Now the whole thing sounds perfectly smooth, does not dip below 1400-1500rpm when blipping throttle, does not hang from 3000 to 1500 for more than 2.5 seconds and just all around runs much smoother! Smoothest since I got it maybe?!

I guess everyone is going to have their own trick to that.
Now that I have figured out a mixture screw trick that works for me, I can play with it from there. I do notice low end hesitation is less now with better adjusted mixture screws.

Even though it sounded perfect after fixing the idle mixture screws, I'll get to work on the vacuum bottle sync tool for further fine tuning. She's running pretty smooth now and if I synchronize the carb now it will only get better!
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Old January 24th, 2010, 06:25 PM   #87
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Well today started with an "Oh crap I hope I can figure this out" and seems to be ending with a "That was awesome, I learned myself how to tune my carbs!"

After the idle mixture success above I went about making another gatorade bottle tool for the bike. This time a carb syncer! Man I really hit the nail on the head this time! The bike is running so smooth! I use smooth to explain it because once tuned it really is physically vibrating less and shifting easier!
I have it running now much better than the first day I brought it home from the Kawi dealer, for sure! I wouldn't sell it for more than I paid because I'd have to buy a new one and put all this awesome work back into it again. That's awesome!

Couldn't have done it without all the info here. Thanks a million guys!
Need to drill them slides and adjust the floats next time but it's running tip top shape right now so might leave it!

I even have video for you to listen to the bike below.

Here's the rundown of what I did next..
Bike had 1800 after the idle mix adjustment..


So I rigged up some gatorade bottles and plugged them to the vacuum lines..


When I fired it up all the oil was running to one side (as I suspected)


So I made a holder for the bottles to hang off my shogun sliders while I adjusted the sync.


I got my right angle 1/4" ratchet driver with a #2 phillips bit and carefully reached back and adjusted the sync screw a very small amount


Until all the bubbles in the tube stopped moving and the idle became extremely smooth!
(pic of bubbles in tube not moving)


Then I set the gatorade carb syncer next to the gatorade brake bleeder buddy


slapped the plastics back on because I could tell it was perfect just from the idle sound of all the changes I made. Purring like a kitten!


..and took her out for a test drive before tomorrows' storm comes in!


Man she was running perfect! Video below! Listen to her scream! You can also hear the rock steady idle at the beginning.
That first acceleration run was 0-80mph! I feel great knowing how to make my bike run like that!
Not only does it get up and go but it cruises smoothly too.
this lil 250R is badayuss!

Link to original page on YouTube.

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Old January 25th, 2010, 11:02 AM   #88
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Man thats awesome! I wish I had the cajones to work on my carbs. My bike is running way too lean, I got to slip the clutch excessively just to get the thing moving.
Is that screaming noise I hear coming from the airbox deletion?
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Old January 25th, 2010, 05:27 PM   #89
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I'm not sure.. what noise do you mean. Give me a time in the video at which the noise occurs and I'll do my best to figure out what it is.

She's running pretty good right now but I'd sure like to get an air fuel reading on a dyno so I could know how well it's tuned. Something makes me thing the needle might be able to be shimmed more?! Sounds crazy to me though. I dunno. lol

Other than that zero complaints. Just seems like the mid range could kick it up another slight notch to me. Top end is screaming!

Got some videos from today I'll put in the ride report section later.
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Old January 25th, 2010, 06:05 PM   #90
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Im talking when the tone changes as you get up in the higher rpm. Mine makes an audible difference in tone at around 7-11k rpm, but its not as drastic as yours sounds in the video.
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Old January 25th, 2010, 06:30 PM   #91
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Ah yes,
That's the combination of the K&N R-0990 filter and the new Factory Pro 110 main jets.

I think (from what I Read?) only things in effect at wide open throttle past 7-8k are the main jet, intake and exhaust.

Wait till I get another wheelie video. You'll see what I mean. hehe

It's really not that hard to dingle with your carbs. Just take your time and study where everything goes and use proper assembly/adjustment techniques. If you gotta force something, you're probably doing it wrong. Take a break and try later.
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Old February 5th, 2010, 12:18 AM   #92
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How much would you charge to come up to the Bay Area and give me a a week's worth of tune-up lessons? ****. I just wish I had that kind of time these days, and money for that matter, and balls. Excellent work.
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Old February 5th, 2010, 05:52 AM   #93
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All just a matter of time reading the info here on this site and applying what I learned on my bike. Little bit of mechanical common sense helps too.

I've owned and messed with a few motorcycles myself before anyways along with tons of other electro-mechanical devices so this kind of thing is my niche.

I love the bay area. Lived there for a few years in Alameda on the island overlooking-looking out to San Francisco. I could almost be convinced for a visit for the gas money and a place to sleep alone, as long as I get to ride Redwood Road and the Oakland/Moraga hills at least once an afternoon Just kidding. I used to work in the Berkeley hills at the lab and had to drive up Fish Ranch Road every morning to go to work. You don't know what you have until it's gone!

I have actually been trying to get a hold of an old buddy up there to let me crash on his couch for a weekend so I can come visit and ride some of my favorite roads on the lil 250R. Kinda depressing going back up there now though that I have nowhere to go when I get there and have to turn around and come home again after driving some of my favorite roads.
Would make for a hell of a ride report though.

Anyways, still tons more work being done to my bike. It's in pieces as I type this for a bunch more mods. lol
Will be trying to get to some of those tonight.
Can't wait for summer. I'm gonna take this bike all over California. I know this whole state inside and out.
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Old February 5th, 2010, 09:48 AM   #94
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Reading your post and all the upgrades... video post was great at the end to hear the final results of your work. Excellent if I do say so myself! Great Job Would you come out here and do mine?
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Old February 5th, 2010, 01:43 PM   #95
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Sounds like I might have to open my garage for business and go get my bike mechanics certification really quick.

You guys just gotta get the cajones to tinker with your bikes. It's not that bad. Most of it anyways.. If you break something you can always just replace it or take it to a mechanic and have him fix what you broke. Just be sure you don't ignore any broken, "bodged" or incorrectly assembled stuff cause it could cost you your life!

I worked on remote control helicopters for a long time and if one tiny thing goes wrong on them it could cost you thousands of dollars in a half second. I'm pretty secure in my mechanical abilities after messing around with that type of stuff.

I'd trust my mechanical skills with my life.
Make sure you can say that about yourself before you go tearing into important things on your bike.

If it means marking hoses and wires with tape so you don't forget them and setting all your screws in bins so they don't roll away and get lost, so be it. Do not hurry/rush through working on your bike either. Take your time and make sure every bolt has been done up properly, by the book.
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Old February 5th, 2010, 02:35 PM   #96
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Slides drilled




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Old February 5th, 2010, 04:36 PM   #97
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Here is what my done and to do list looks like..
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Gear mods/updates:
helmet fixed
dianese pants
dainese back protector

bike mods done:
removed ca emissions equip
installed PCV valve and fuel filter on tank
removed kleen air system
plugged clean air holes
carb sync ports added
half chopped fender
plate reflectors added
disk lock added onboard
soft coated cable lock stowable in backpack
battery tender garage side wiring and bike side wiring
iPhone RAM mount
Video/still camera head for RAM mount
Shogun frame sliders
air box removal
breather filter for crank case hole
rear right blinker light connector bodged with zipties
K&N R-0990 filter and support
throttle twist reduction (need to retry, currently removed)
factory pro jet kit 3.0 110 main jets, needle clips pos. 4, 3 shims
idle mixture adjusted, check again at 3000mi or when new mods done. maybe try 2.75 turns
carbs synchronized after latest drilled slides mod.. check again at 3000mi
coolant added.. check at 3000mi (goes down quick from doing wheelies, have to check often)
oil changed w/ filter at 1600mi, check at 2000mi, change at 2500-3000mi
Chain lubed at 2200mi, Lube again at 3000mi.. Chain slack adjusted to 24mm at 2200mi and new cotter pin. check again at 3000mi. Wheel aligned.
EBC pads on front installed at 2200 mi.
drilled slides #70 .028" and resynced carbs

In progress
Leaning gauge and gear indicator installation and programming (install shifter switches and finish programming, 80% completed)
Hel lines

To do:
water temp gauge
fender elimination
In contact with Hel about brake lines.. installation/testing to be done.
test/modify red ebay pegs? (I've dragged knee with these but still don't trust them, might do rearsets but dont want to)
Float height adjustment
light connectors (broke one, ziptied currently)
steering stem nut adjust tool
Steering Damper
Yoshi, carbon, full
Pazzo, red
Wood craft or ktc clip ons
Puig double bubble, red
Proton
Tires
Jacket (must zip to pants)
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Old February 5th, 2010, 11:04 PM   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ninja250 View Post
rear right blinker light connector bodged with zipties

light connectors (broke one, ziptied currently)
Which connector are you talking about, the one that joins to the wiring harness on the bike? If so, which side did you break? I've got the female ends of the blinker sockets left over from my proton install if it's that side, which I'd be happy to send you. If it's the male/blinker side of the socket, Eastern Beaver sells the appropriately sized connectors for many of our electricals per this thread:
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=34996
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Old February 8th, 2010, 10:47 AM   #99
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This be the one. It's a tricky one to reach.
I believe it's the right rear blinker connector, female side. I broke the prong that holds the male side in. Taught me real quick to go easy on the connector prongs.
Will probably order some new ones, once I get to the fender eliminator. Thanks for the offer dude. Will probably do your proton DIY eventually too. Working on saving for that jacket and exhaust right now.
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Old February 8th, 2010, 06:04 PM   #100
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Found a few cool pictures on my iphone.

Here is the moment I first laid hands on my bike, rolling it off the dealer lot.
I was stoked! It didn't have a single scratch on it yet. Only had 1 mile from the dude who checked it out and made sure it was working right before he helped me load it in the truck.


Here was a hat I hit on my way to LA one day. It stuck on the bike wrapped around the rear wheel for like 10 miles and I didn't even know it. When it hit me damn thing nailed my foot pretty good for a hat too! Always happy to be riding with Sidi boots. That one was crazy! I did a little hat dance while pulling the hat out of my back axle.
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Old February 8th, 2010, 09:33 PM   #101
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Wow, I would've laid a brick when I realized there was a hat wrapped 'round my rear axle. Good story though and definitely another reason to wear real moto boots!

Are you planning to grab a tank pad/grip sometime soon? All that red tank looks kinda nekkid
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Old February 8th, 2010, 10:29 PM   #102
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Yeah thanks for the reminder. I've already dulled the shine off the tank!
I'll do that now.
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Old February 9th, 2010, 01:59 AM   #103
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Haha Might do a wash/wax/polish, see if that helps restore some lustre. Just got finished doing that to all the blue bits of my bike and it looks much better.
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Old February 16th, 2010, 06:07 PM   #104
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I really love the shogun diy pics. Was wondering what part that we had to cut to make the bar fit. Thanks!
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Old February 20th, 2010, 10:37 PM   #105
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congrat. KC, nicely done!!
with open pipe the rpm will pull thru' to 14k.
mind telling me what is proton?

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Old February 21st, 2010, 05:19 AM   #106
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Quote:
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I really love the shogun diy pics. Was wondering what part that we had to cut to make the bar fit. Thanks!
It's the little front sprocket cover piece that you have to cut.
I'll get a better picture soon to show this better.
Here is Pauls.. he actually did a nicer cut than I.
I'd recommend trying to go about it his way for the cleanest install. I just hacked mine up real quick like a hurried excited little boy. lol
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showp...6&postcount=20

Sorry I missed your post a few days back! Been running around with "my head cut off" lately. lol


Quote:
Originally Posted by blackburn RR View Post
congrat. KC, nicely done!!
with open pipe the rpm will pull thru' to 14k.
mind telling me what is proton?

BB
Yes the bike pulls up to 13 pretty easy now.
I'm hoping the pipe will bring back a tiny bit of the low end from removing the air box, but who knows. It's running pretty good right now and I just bought a new jacket so the pipe will have to wait a couple more weeks again.
I just took it out, dropped the plastic and tune it again yesterday (mixtures and synch) before taking it for a ride and it sounds even better than it did before
Starting to get the hang of this lil bike.. tuning wise.

Will love it when I put the exhaust on!

Here's a great link to the Protons and an excellently assembled DIY how to install them for you! They look sweet huh?
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=36477
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Old February 21st, 2010, 07:51 AM   #107
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thanks KC,
over here we still have lots of smaller capacity two stroker,
we can easily get them from yamaha RXZ, a simple direct swap.

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Old March 6th, 2010, 02:54 AM   #108
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Well,
Along with upgrading my jacket and helmet yesterday, finally got around to switching to Synthetic. Hopefully this is the right stuff so my clutch doesn't slip all over the place. lol
I'll find out today! Wonder if I'll be able to feel the difference.
The bike is now rockin' almost 3,500mi.
Most (all besides new gloves) of my gear upgrades are done. Time for my exhaust and damper now. Definitely want any type of damper addition I can get on this bike. She gets a lil wobbly when draggin' knees on me. Tires would probably help too. Mine are pretty well worn down after 3500mi of mostly twisties. I figure they'll be replaced at about 5,000mi.


Also saw a nice red tank bag and saddle bags I might purchase for longer trips in the future.
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Old March 9th, 2010, 05:15 AM   #109
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PRetty sure I could actually feel the Mobile 1 making a smoother difference in how my bike runs.

Now for the new white shogun sliders and new ebay pegs since I dropped it a couple weekends ago.




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Old March 11th, 2010, 03:17 AM   #110
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Very badass NIN...
Sorry bout that hat- it cracks me up tho- dang tourists!
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