January 8th, 2012, 10:04 AM | #1 |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: Ty
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bike won't run after several miles
so i got a 2004 ninja 250 with 1900 miles. i just took out my carbs and did a full rebuild and cleaning, put it back in and went for a test ride. took it through a 10 mile mountain pass, everything ran perfect. today i go on a 20 mile trip, was running fine for the first 13 miles then suddenly i got a loss in power, the RPM's topped off at 6k in 6th gear, speed not going above 50mph, then the bike just stalled. i waited it off on the shoulder lane for about 5 minutes, then started it back up again. bike started right up, drove fine for about 1 mile then problems came back. this time waited for just 1 minute, started it back up, this time any throttle would stall the bike. then i noticed that the left muffler was extremely hot and the right one was just kind of warm. waited for 5 minutes and tried starting up again, once again ran fine for about a mile then died again. i pretty much limped it home this way. i noticed that im always smelling burnt gas, so im guessing something is running rich? another thing is that when it runs fine, the rpms are at 3k fully warmed up w/ no choke, if i lower the idle knob the rpms drop to 1.4k but any blip on the throttle will make it return to 3k. gonna pull spark plugs to check for rich or lean and check compression to see if i damaged anything. anybody know whats going on? thanks for any reply!
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January 8th, 2012, 10:18 AM | #2 |
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First off, hello and welcome to the forum
Check the easy/cheap things first. Make sure all the hoses are connected properly to the carbs. One time I forget to connect all my hoses after syncing my carbs, and the bike only ran on one cylinder... badly. Check that the petcock actually flows gas under vacuum. put a hose on the fuel nipple and a hose on the vacuum nipple; suck on the vacuum hose. Fuel should flow out the fuel hose. Taking apart the carbs to make sure that you put everything back together correctly/nothing came apart isn't a bad idea either. Plenty of carb pictures here, with a link to more carb photos Next, check for an air leak in the intake. Start the bike, and spray something flammable (WD40, engine starter etc) at each carb boot individually and listen to see if the idle changes. If it speeds up, that means WD40 (or whatever you sprayed) is getting sucked in and burnt. If there's an air leak, fix it. Finally, how did you go about cleaning the carbs? Did you get all the idle circuits fully? they're awfully small on this bike and get gummed up easily. |
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January 8th, 2012, 10:43 AM | #3 |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: Ty
Location: Honolulu
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hey thanks for the reply. i highly doubt it could be a hose i forgot or something, as the bike ran just as a bike with 1900 miles should for a whole day of riding yesterday, and part of today. just checked the fuel petcock, flows fine with vacuum applied. also did the spray with carb cleaner, no fluctuation in idle. as for how i cleaned the carbs, i just used this guide.
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January 8th, 2012, 11:06 AM | #4 |
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Unlikely given the recent carb work, but those symptoms also describe a venting issue with the gas tank. If you pop the gas cap open and it restarts immediately, check for a clogged vent tube.
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January 8th, 2012, 04:00 PM | #5 |
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3k idle? That's no good...
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January 8th, 2012, 07:47 PM | #6 |
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Only California bikes vent through hoses. The rest vent through the filler cap.
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January 8th, 2012, 07:51 PM | #7 |
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Makes sense.
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January 13th, 2012, 09:24 AM | #8 |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: Ty
Location: Honolulu
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so i just double checked the carbs, everything is clean and adjusted, floats at 17mm, replaced spark plugs and gapped correctly, new fuel filter. idle mixture adjusted, compression 175 on each piston, adjusted valves. started up fine, idle problem is now gone (idles right at 1.5k and doesnt hang at 3-4k) but went for a 5 minute ride and started noticing acceleration problems again. bike stalled out couple of times and needed choke+throttle to start again. itll bog up to about 5k and then the power will just suddenly come back. also still left side exhaust hotter than right. could it be the coil packs? going to try and swap the left and right ones and see if the right muffler gets hot this time.
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January 13th, 2012, 03:01 PM | #9 |
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That sounds like a good idea. Did you ever do that compression test?
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January 13th, 2012, 04:27 PM | #10 |
wat
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the time before last when i took my carbs off i forgot to turn the petcock back to on instead of off... the fuel pump (or vacuum) was still strong enough to get some fuel in there, but the bowls would empty out and it would eventually die... i had to stop and idle or turn it off for a few minutes then start up again.
it sounds like you are having fuel delivery problems. when dealing with carbs, RPM doesnt matter too much so much as throttle position. what throttle position are you at when it bogs at 5k? heres a good graph sounds like your pilot air screw is not properly set? i was just reading about this. they say start at 1 or 2 turns out and keep going half turns out until it idles when warmed up, then adjust out while its running at idle until you get the highest vacuum (or highest rpm at idle), then adjust your idle screw to bring it back down to proper idle rpm
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Last futzed with by alex.s; January 13th, 2012 at 06:09 PM. |
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