Upper Fairing

[Ram Jet]

Does anyone have an upper fairing that is too far gone to repair? I'm looking for a section of a fairing as noted in the attached photos. I want to cut this section from another fairing to repair mine.

Thanks,

Bill

[///M]

Originally Posted by Ram Jet

Does anyone have an upper fairing that is too far gone to repair? I'm looking for a section of a fairing as noted in the attached photos. I want to cut this section from another fairing to repair mine.

Thanks,

Bill

I'll take a look when I head back home from school (weekend after this). I believe that was one of the only parts of my upper fairing that are still somewhat in tact.

[Ram Jet]

Originally Posted by ///M

I'll take a look when I head back home from school (weekend after this). I believe that was one of the only parts of my upper fairing that are still somewhat in tact.

Thank you Jon. If you have that section it will save me a boat load of work. Just let me know how much you need for it. Man, I'm keeping my 2007 turn signals. They break away in a fall and this would never have happened.

Regards,

Bill

[///M]

Originally Posted by Ram Jet

Thank you Jon. If you have that section it will save me a boat load of work. Just let me know how much you need for it. Man, I'm keeping my 2007 turn signals. They break away in a fall and this would never have happened.

Regards,

Bill

I don't need anything for it, my treat.

Just not sure if it might've been thrown out

[Ram Jet]

Originally Posted by ///M

I don't need anything for it, my treat.

Just not sure if it might've been thrown out

Maybe a quart of good ol' Vermont Maple Syrup? OK, OK it gets cold in Vermont - a quart of Jim Beam. :-).

Bill

[Capekev]

I actually bought some other parts from that bike on ebay. You can cut parts, just use some fiberglass cloth under it and resin it back together. But unless you are good with that, it'll probably look like hell.

[Ram Jet]

Originally Posted by Capekev

I actually bought some other parts from that bike on ebay. You can cut parts, just use some fiberglass cloth under it and resin it back together. But unless you are good with that, it'll probably look like hell.

Um, I'm not going to use epoxy. I love JB Weld but it's just a glue. I want to weld pieces together using something with an acetone base to it. I could probably make my own concoction with acetone and and powdered ABS plastic. By weld I mean putting the plastic in temporary solution and fusing the two pieces together. Epoxy just sticks one part to another. I'm considering;

http://www.easyabsrepair.com/

I would use JB Weld and fiberglass before polyester resin and fiberglass. Polyester resin doesn't adhere well to ABS. I have used JB Weld to repair and reinforce the locating pins on motorcycle side covers and it works very well. I think a fairing requires a different approach. Your dealing with attaching two pieces of 1/8" thick ABS which requires strength. What would be a stronger bond, epoxying two pieces of steel together or arc welding them.

Have you tried removing the decals? I got mine off but it was a pain. At least they weren't clear coated over - they are impossible.

Bill

[Capekev]

I haven't got the decals off. But my new fairing is blank. Only parts I need to worry about are the rear parts, and they're clear coated. Ughh. Not going to be fun at all.

[Ram Jet]

Originally Posted by Capekev

I haven't got the decals off. But my new fairing is blank. Only parts I need to worry about are the rear parts, and they're clear coated. Ughh. Not going to be fun at all.

I got the clear coated Kawasaki off my tank but it wasn't easy. It was clear coated. The clear coat is resistant to gasoline but the vinyl decal and adhesive that hold the decal on are not. If you're patient and careful you can score the clear coat with a single edge razor blade. Don't cut too deep or you'll scratch your painted finish. The combination of decal and adhesive is fairly thick. Then soak a paper towel in gasoline and lay it over your decal. After a while you'll see the decal get kind of weird and wrinkly. Apply more gasoline to the paper towel and let it sit. Pretty soon you'll be able to pick away at the decal. When the decal of off completely you'll be left with a ridge where the clear coat meets the undercoat. If you're going to repaint the part just sand away the ridge and the rest of the part. If you're going to preserve the original finish on the part you'll have to wet sand the ridge off carefully and re-clear coat.

If your parts weren't clear coated a hair dryer and gasoline would do the whole show for you.

Bill

[///M]

Shoot, Bill, the fairing completely skipped my mind! I looked today and pretty sure it was thrown in the dumpster.

[Ram Jet]

Originally Posted by ///M

Shoot, Bill, the fairing completely skipped my mind! I looked today and pretty sure it was thrown in the dumpster.

Phooey! Well, thanks for checking. I've got a good start on the project anyway so I'll do it the hard way.

[LR44]

Originally Posted by Ram Jet

Um, I'm not going to use epoxy. I love JB Weld but it's just a glue. I want to weld pieces together...

Bill

This. If you have garbage body panels (or ABS you don't care about) lying around and a soldering iron, cut off a few strips of plastic from it. Take some painter's tape and tightly tape the repair section where it belongs so its flush with the rest of the fairing. Then using the soldering iron and the strips of ABS plastic to "spot weld" the repair section in several spots. If the repair section looks flush, you can weld the rest of the seams so its permanent. If not, just cut into the spot welds to free the repair section and try again.

[Ram Jet]

Originally Posted by LR44

This. If you have garbage body panels (or ABS you don't care about) lying around and a soldering iron, cut off a few strips of plastic from it. Take some painter's tape and tightly tape the repair section where it belongs so its flush with the rest of the fairing. Then using the soldering iron and the strips of ABS plastic to "spot weld" the repair section in several spots. If the repair section looks flush, you can weld the rest of the seams so its permanent. If not, just cut into the spot welds to free the repair section and try again.

Too late for me. I used ABS goop. I'm getting there.

Bill