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Old May 28th, 2018, 01:57 AM   #1
kaos
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Nude '98

Starting a build thread for my '98 250. It was faired when I purchased it some 10yrs ago but I soon ripped the plastics off and went nude with her. After picking up a GPZ750 when I got my full licence the 250 was pushed into a corner and completely stripped. I eventually sold the 750 and have been bikeless for a good 5yrs.
As I get older and my schizophrenia takes a tighter grip on my failng mind I find myself needing a project to keep me from completely descending into darkness.... So, time to reassemble this girl. I've already encountered a problem in that during the years stripped and a house move, i have lost quite a few bolts, passenger pegs and mount and some odds and ends in the form of gaskets and connectors.
The plan is a simple naked build, hide as much wiring as I can and deck it with some ebay turn signals, headlight, speedo etc. I'd also like to change to a pod filter but I'll see how I go. I'm also thinking about deleting the ignition switch or relocating it.
Anyway, this is her as she sits at this minute watching me molest her wiring harness haha.
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Old May 28th, 2018, 12:45 PM   #2
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I mean, that's about as nude as a bike can get. I'd call it a success already lol.
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Old May 28th, 2018, 02:25 PM   #3
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Aaahaha, sweet well I'll just put a seat on and flinstone it then lol.

I went ahead and drilled the switch off the triple. Started out using my drill press nut a few minutes in and the shank wobbled and dropped, eating some of the ali triple. So into the vice and finished by hand. Not sure if I want to relocate or delete.
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Old May 30th, 2018, 01:33 AM   #4
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Stopped at the hardware store in town and picked up an aerosol of Dulux Metalshield in Satin Black to try out. Not sure I will use it for the rest of the bike to be honest. The 90min drying time and $11/can makes me think I'll be better off with the $3 cheapy cans which have a quick drying time.
Anyway I gave the top triple, tank bracket and chain adjusters a quick scuff and spray. See how it goes in another half hour but it's all looking a bit glossy so far.
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Old May 30th, 2018, 04:50 AM   #5
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Well the paint sucks. It's been 3hrs and it's as tacky as my not so good self. I will definitely be seeking a different brand for this job.
Instead of watching the paint dry I decided to cut the front fender up for a reshape. It had some cracks around the mounting area and while cutting it also broke more. But anyway I quite like it, though I may shorten it a little in all directions.
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Old May 30th, 2018, 06:41 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by kaos View Post
Well the paint sucks. It's been 3hrs and it's as tacky as my not so good self. I will definitely be seeking a different brand for this job.
Instead of watching the paint dry I decided to cut the front fender up for a reshape. It had some cracks around the mounting area and while cutting it also broke more. But anyway I quite like it, though I may shorten it a little in all directions.
Get it out in the sun.

Heat and air movement will help the solvent evaporate. In some cases, popping it in the oven at about 200 - 250F works well, but best not to use the home oven.
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Old May 30th, 2018, 07:40 AM   #7
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Some of the best sticking and lasting paints I've used take a while to dry.
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Old May 30th, 2018, 07:40 AM   #8
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Yeah Ill do that tomorrow weather depending. Not much sun here over the last week and sporadic rain at the moment (and its midnight lol). The shed is quite warm and I have a 500w light on them. Time wise I guess this is nothing for this sort of paint. I have done cars in similar style air dry enamel and it's taken 1-2 days to dry sufficiently (though it was applied with gun/compressor). I'll definitely be switching to a cheaper (and sadly less protective) paint in the interests of faster drying time. I sprayed some random items a couple days ago with the cheap
paint and it was touch dry in under half an hour.
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Old May 31st, 2018, 02:16 PM   #9
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It rains in Australia?
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Old May 31st, 2018, 03:25 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Triple Jim View Post
Some of the best sticking and lasting paints I've used take a while to dry.
Sorry missed your comment mate.
Honestly I agree with you, I'm just being an impatient SOB.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MrAtom View Post
It rains in Australia?
Ha! Not as much as it needs to. My tanks are near empty and the paddock is dry. It's not so much rain as inconsistent spitting just to be a pita.

Anyway the paint finally dried after getting some sun....20hours after painting. That 90min touch dry claim is a little tall LOL.
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Old June 4th, 2018, 02:00 AM   #11
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I ordered a speedo from ebay last week and it arrived today. From what I have read and watched on youtube these gauges are pretty much hit & miss. I miss the old Koso that used to be on her, should never have sold it. This gauge is bigger than I thought it would be and the Koso was perfect.
Anyway the various internet banter on the gauge has already come in handy. Someone had done a wiring diagram for it and it helped me get it powered. The instructions that came with it are crap. Red/ positive Green/negative...except as someone worked out Red is for the memory and the actual positive is the black wire labeled as "positive electric door lock" LOL. I can't really play with anything else on the gauge until the frame is painted, engine mounted and electrics in. I also really need my headlight and indicators to show up so I can sort the wiring as I only want to cut/shut it once.

Oh I also switched paints to a Rustoleum 2x satin black and hit the tank with a couple of coats. It is much blacker than the Dulux and it also dried in 20min as advertised. I also used the 2x satin clear to go over top of it. Im hoping it will hold up to petrol spills though.
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Old June 4th, 2018, 02:13 AM   #12
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Sorry guys I have no idea why the pics turn out sideways.
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Old June 4th, 2018, 07:07 AM   #13
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Oh I also switched paints to a Rustoleum 2x satin black and hit the tank with a couple of coats. It is much blacker than the Dulux and it also dried in 20min as advertised. I also used the 2x satin clear to go over top of it. Im hoping it will hold up to petrol spills though.
Most likely not.

There is a spray can paint called "SprayMax 2K" that comes in gloss, satin, and matte finishes that will hold up to gas.

It's fairly expensive, but worth it for tanks. It's a 2-part catalyzed paint in a can. I recently did some bodywork with the gloss and was impressed. I haven't actually tested it with gas (this was a front fairing), but a catalyzed paint will always be far superior to standard air-dry types.
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Old June 4th, 2018, 04:48 PM   #14
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Thanks for the advice I will check it out. I just read a few things about it and it does sound like a tough coating. I'll email the manufacturer and see if it can be sprayed over the Rustoleum or whether it's a strip job. The problem for me is that not much of anything I need is available locally so I have to travel for most things. The Rustoleum was a 100km round trip itself.

On a positive note, my indicators arrived today. They appear to be well made, quite weighty and of a diecast construction.
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Old June 5th, 2018, 07:58 AM   #15
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Thanks for the advice I will check it out. I just read a few things about it and it does sound like a tough coating. I'll email the manufacturer and see if it can be sprayed over the Rustoleum or whether it's a strip job. The problem for me is that not much of anything I need is available locally so I have to travel for most things. The Rustoleum was a 100km round trip itself.

On a positive note, my indicators arrived today. They appear to be well made, quite weighty and of a diecast construction.
I would make sure the rustoleum is dry (smell it), then scuff it lightly/carefully with 400 wet sandpaper. Use a soft Scotchbrite pad for the tight areas and make sure the entire surface is dull. Wash with a small amount of soap and water, then dry.

You should be able to clear over the cured and scuffed paint without any problem.

I noticed that the SprayMax 2K gloss clear was rather thick, and needed reasonably heavy "wet" coats to flow smoothly - more than typical spray can paint. It didn't want to run even when applied pretty heavy. Watch the glare as you spray, and be prepared to move rather slowly (and fairly close) to get a smooth finish.
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Old June 9th, 2018, 05:43 PM   #16
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Hey cheers for the reply mate. SprayMax recommend i ditch the rustoleum altogether. However looking around over here there are no local stockists of SprayMax near me. At $50 plus postage from the next closest stockists I'm hesitant to use it. We'll see.
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Old June 11th, 2018, 06:31 PM   #17
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Chopped a spare seat base and started doing a rear cowl. Mocked some up in cardboard and then mdf. I attempted to fibreglass the mdf but failed. I had tried a technique where you cover the part in ductape and glass over it. However the polyester resin apparently doesn't go well with the ductape and it wrinkles. Bugger. Start over..
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Old June 11th, 2018, 06:33 PM   #18
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The one I'm glassing isn't the one I really wanted to do. I actually wanted to do the one that narrows to the rear but in the interest of not chopping the frame up the other one was chosen.
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Old June 12th, 2018, 03:54 AM   #19
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So instead of throwing it out I decided to kill some time sanding it. The tape really messed it all up so much that sandng it actually sanded right through in spots. So i gave it another 2coats of mat/resin on the underside. Tomorrow I will continue sanding and then chuck a skim of filler on and prime it. Right now it weighs a whopping 500g. Hopefully at least 100g will come off in the next sanding.
I've decided I will hinge it rearwards and either house the electrics in there or have it as a little storage area. We'll see...
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Old June 17th, 2018, 03:58 AM   #20
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Slow work, haven't really progressed on the cowl. I just finished up painting the frame and fork legs though. I was going to give it a coat of clear but it's after 8pm, it's cold and my back is shot. I'm going to paint the wheels tomorrow and hopefully have her rolling with the engine in by the end of the week. Excuse the messy workshop...
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Old June 19th, 2018, 12:44 AM   #21
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Starting to wish I had gone with a flat black instead of this satin. It's quite glossy really.
I really need to sort out what I am doing for bars because the stock ones are not going to suit at all.
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Old June 19th, 2018, 06:29 AM   #22
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The tank looks closer to semi-gloss than satin even.

Let it dry in the sun a few days, scuff it with a scuff pad, clean it, and re-shoot it with flat.

Best to spray out a test panel if using a paint you are not familiar with to get a good look at the finish and gloss level before hitting the actual piece.
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Old June 19th, 2018, 08:27 AM   #23
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Yeah i did know the 2x satin was glossier than other paints as I watched a few youtube vids and could tell straight away. But, I figured it might dull off a bit and went with it anyway. Mostly because I've had a few flat black cars and hated the way water marks always ruined the look and after doing a couple of satin black cars water marks were less of an issue.
I think I will end up flat bombing it though but I'll see how I feel once it is all together. The wheels are actually painted in 2x flat black but with the satin clear. They do not sell the 2x flat/matte clear here, only the gloss or satin.
Thanks for your input mate.
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Old June 19th, 2018, 09:46 AM   #24
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Do they sell a 2X Flat Black there? I don't recall if I've seen it. If the satin is pretty glossy, maybe the flat is not so flat.

I have used quite a few of the Rustoleum 2X paints before, and do find them to cover a lot better than most.

Unfortunately neither will stand up to gas spills.
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Old June 19th, 2018, 03:49 PM   #25
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Yeah they do a flat black in the 2x. I painted the wheels in it then satin cleared them. The flat on its own is more flat but not as flat as traditional flats that I've used. I like it t though. But, no flat clear.
The guy from SprayMax did say that most 2K paints would be gas resistant and the local hardwate does sell an aerosol 2K, but only in gloss. I have not found a local stockist for the SprayMax at all and $50 plus delivery was the best I could find.
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Old June 20th, 2018, 03:13 AM   #26
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No work today but tinkering in the shed tonight. I put the stock bars on for a look and tbh once they are painted and re-gripped in black, I think they will look ok. I did want to go with a straight drag bar but I think the stock bars will be more comfortable anyway.
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Old July 2nd, 2018, 06:53 PM   #27
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Very little progress. The motor is painted and ready to go in. Just need time slots to align with wife and son so they can give me a hand to bolt it in.
I also mounted and bled the front brake only to find it very tight. After a rebleed it has loosened a little but there is still considerable drag. I guess it's going to need a rebuild.
I also decided to stick with the stock bars for now. Last time I was riding this bike I pretty much "one with it" and could just about balance at stop without putting my feet down (for short stops obviously). Changing the bars would change everything I'd gotten used to (though it's been so long I'll be relearning it all over again anyway). Really I just can't wait to get her going again LOL.
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Old January 12th, 2019, 01:37 PM   #28
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Old January 12th, 2019, 06:01 PM   #29
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Quick note about paint, in general, the faster-drying the paint, the weaker it is and will chip easier and wrinkle easier when exposed to gasoline.

Toughest paints are catalyised 2-part paints such as epoxies and polyurethanes. These take up to 2-weeks to fully harden, but they are tougher than nails. My personal favourite is Dupon Imron. It takes 25-30 minutes to finish flowing and gives wet-drip gloss with no orange-peel. Forced-air mask required due to cyanide.
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Old January 13th, 2019, 06:53 AM   #30
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My personal favourite is Dupon Imron. It takes 25-30 minutes to finish flowing and gives wet-drip gloss with no orange-peel. Forced-air mask required due to cyanide.
I have to agree. I painted my H2 with Imron around 1980 and that paint still in pretty good shape. Gasoline doesn't do anything to it, and neither does brake fluid. When I had to clean bad gas out of the tank a few years ago after an extended storage, even the lacquer thinner I used didn't hurt the Imron. You have to put it on the way you want it to look though, without the wet sanding and polishing that is often done with other paints.

Spraymax 2K is right up there. From what I have gathered, it's an acrylic urethane, and the convenience of a 2-part clear that comes in a single spray can makes it very useful for motorcycle parts. It's a little easier to spray than Imron, being more forgiving about getting a high gloss without runs. Imron makes you walk a pretty fine line between getting rid of orange peel and getting sags and runs. Unless they've modified it a little in the last 40 years, that is.
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