Bicycles!

[massacremasses]

got ya, cool I guess I should get a road bike really then. I plan on riding around town, and to work.

[lostdaemon]

If you're on a budget the tire swap Apex suggested works well too. I did that for a while, worked pretty well.

[massacremasses]

idk what you guys are talking about with the tire stuff....

[lostdaemon]

Apex mentioned more specifics, but the tires on a bicycle are really easy to change. So it's not hard to have two sets of tires - one street tire that's mostly smooth, and one mountain tires that's all knobbly. Whenever you want to go out to a trail, just take off the wheels, changes the tires, pop the wheels back on. 5 minutes, once you've got it down.
That way you don't have to get two bikes ($!) to have all the pedal powered fun you want

[massacremasses]

but what kind of frame and suspension should I get then? a road bike and mountain bike are completely different.

[Apex]

If you want trail riding, go mountain bike.

Ok, I'll help you out here. Road bikes tend to run what we refer to 700c wheels. It is measured in millimeters, while MTB wheels tend to be measured in inches (not including the 650B size, but that is just coming out, so don't worry about it). Whatever, it doesn't really matter. The end result is that a 29-er wheel (29-inch) is the same size as a 700c road wheel. The only difference is that it is often a little heavier to hold up on the trail and a little wider. The wider rim allows for the larger mountain bike tires to mount on them.

The mountain bike tires tend to run between 2" wide and 3" wide. I'd recommend 2-2.1" because that will be the easiest tube to find locally.

(this link may help: Sheldon Brown: Tires)

Now the 700c road tire, like a 700x35c, does not have the knobbies, it is thinner and will roll more efficiently over pavement. This is similar to the tire you see on that hybrid you posted. Now road tires come in different sizes. These go from 700x23c, 25c, 28c, 32c, 35c, and so fourth. This is the width of the tire. You don't want to run too thin of a tire because that exposes your rim to the pavement and can cause you to crash if the metal contacts it. So just choose a tire that is wide enough (a local bike shop can help you here). The problem with the hybrid is that it is not really designed to be good offroad. The mountain bike does well on both.

For visual reference:
My old Specialized Hardrock Sport Disc 29-er:

When I first got it home:


After I put 700x35c tires on it:


So it is a mountain bike, and also a road hybrid at the same time. I just swap the tires between the big knobbies and the road tires. You have to work much harder pushing 2" knobbies over pavement (especially if you run them at offroad pressures, such as 35psi), and also they don't grip as well as the skinnier road tires. The knobbies, even though the tire is wider, sacrifice grip on pavement. You can run them, but you have to be careful when it is wet out.

Surf this site and it may answer some more of you questions:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/

Let me know if you need any clarification on anything else (or more on this topic).

Also:
Road tire: Click for image
MTB tire: Click for image

[massacremasses]

youre awesome. I got it now.

So mountain bike it is! with a set of road tires for commuting to work!

Now I need to find one...


The check that kid gave me for repairs to the "nice" bike he traded me bounced. Im poor again. :/

[Apex]

You can also use a MTB with 26" wheels, but the slicks you will find for it are very limited compared to the 29-er. Just keep your eyes peeled. Also, it wouldn't hurt to hit up a LBS (local bike shop) to find out what bike fits you best. Picking a bike is a combination of leg length and torso length. You try to get a 90* angle between your chest and your upper arm. Then you want a frame size that allows for full leg extension. I like a more compact cockpit on my MTB, so I run a 19" frame. I like the smaller frame because it is more nimble compared to the next size up. I'm guessing you will be somewhere around 17" or 19" on the frame size (like I said, hit up a LBS).

Just remember this: in order to get the most efficient pedal stroke on a bicycle, you must have your seat high enough to have an almost straight leg when at the bottom of the stroke. When you ride trails, having this seat height at this level will cause you to eat it on a downhill section. I did that once, never again. Having a metal seat post is nice. Once you find the "magic" setup for road, use a small file or something to notch the seat post. Not much, but just enough to know where it is.

Then lower it a little bit, maybe 1/4", hop on it and see if you can move your back end behind the seat. You want to be able to do this easily. I'd rather be on the low side than the high side. On the steep downhill sections, it is nice to be able to move your weight behind the centerline to avoid being tossed over the bars. However, going too low will cause pain in the front of your knee, too high on the seat causes pain on the backside of the knee. It is a test of trail and error to find the right positioning.

I attached my first bike after I got back into cycling...complete with slicks and all...a 19" frame on 26" wheels. Take a full rigid setup on a trail, you will come to appreciate suspension VERY QUICKLY.

[massacremasses]

haha

I figure ill do more road riding than anything else. but I will want to hit up some trails with my brother in law. Thanks though Ill be looking around!

[massacremasses]

what about this one?

http://chico.craigslist.org/bik/3055052397.html

[Apex]

One thing I love about rigid front forks, you learn very quickly to choose the smoothest lines on the trail. This is due to a few reasons. First, you are the suspension. To save energy soaking up the bumps, you find the smoothest line possible. Second, speed. Having to go over obstacles slows you down, so a wise line choice saves you not only time, but energy as well (like pulling on the bars to make the front tire hop over a root). Third, you just flat out become a good rider. This translates to really fast trail riding when you finally do get a quality bike with a front suspension. I wish I kept my rigid Cannondale frame...I'd still ride it if I had it...

Yes, that bike would work just fine. You gotta start somewhere!

EDIT: Plus, if you really like the frame, you can always upgrade to a new front suspension fork later or new shifters/derailleurs.

[massacremasses]

Originally Posted by Apex

One thing I love about rigid front forks, you learn very quickly to choose the smoothest lines on the trail. This is due to a few reasons. First, you are the suspension. To save energy soaking up the bumps, you find the smoothest line possible. Second, speed. Having to go over obstacles slows you down, so a wise line choice saves you not only time, but energy as well (like pulling on the bars to make the front tire hop over a root). Third, you just flat out become a good rider. This translates to really fast trail riding when you finally do get a quality bike with a front suspension. I wish I kept my rigid Cannondale frame...I'd still ride it if I had it...

Yes, that bike would work just fine. You gotta start somewhere!

EDIT: Plus, if you really like the frame, you can always upgrade to a new front suspension fork later or new shifters/derailleurs.

nice if its still there when I get back from SD on monday Ill snag it. idk what I should pay him. not over $100 though. lol

[Apex]

Was it still there?

[massacremasses]

idk.

the guy who bought my motorcycles last check bounced. So im out 400 right now. So there goes any money I had for a bike

[Apex]

Don't ever accept checks. Cash or cashiers check only. That way they can't call it in and cancel it. Happened to me once. I won't let it happen again.

Some people just have no heart, they are only in it for them. It is rather sad.

[massacremasses]

Ive learned my lesson. He seemed trusty worthy. But yeah, it wont happen again.

[choneofakind]

Apex has got it down with the biking advice. A mountain bike with slick or smooth tires makes a great commuter to hop curbs and take shortcuts but still roll with minimal resistance over long distances and they're great on long hill climbs. I have nothing further to add to that except,

wear a goshdarn helmet yo!!! I don't care if those things are tiny and don't feel like anything compared to a motorcycle helmet, they work!!

On July 4th, I bruised a rib, collapsed a small part of my lung, and got rash from my left forearm to hip (among other things), got to spend the afternoon in the ER, got multiple xrays, a CT scan, and still have more appointments to go to this week, all after eating sh*t off a jump on my mtb. The injuries that I did NOT receive were head trauma, concussion etc, because even though my head nailed the ground hard enough to scare me, my helmet took the hit. It is nicely dented on the left side and thankfully, my head is not. It is being replaced and I will be back riding soon because I don't have any head injuries that take a long time to heal. I was also able to get myself to my car (almost a mile away from the jump course) and call my parents for help, which I would not have been able to do if my head was unprotected and hit the ground as hard as did.

moral of the story, wear a bike helmet, no matter how insubstantial or stupid it feels. I had my doubts about bicycle helmets after being accustomed to a full face DOT and SNELL approved motorcycle helmet, but wore it any ways because it made my mom feel better about me riding trails. Man am I glad that I had my helmet on! as an aside, gloves are also great when going on MTB rides, I wear SS mesh motorcycle gloves when I ride my mtb; these gloves really aren't heavy duty enough for use on a motorcycle, but they're perfect on a mountain bike. They breath well, and protect your hands. My scrapes end where my glove begin. Torn up hands are a real inconvenience, which I've learned from other falls.

If you're going to ride mountain biking trails, make sure to be protected and let someone know where you're going in case you need help. I learned just how important that is this week.

[Apex]

I wear a helmet all the time (most of the time). On occasion I get lazy, but for the most part I stick with my ATGATT rule.

I have a pair of specialized full finger gloves that I wear when I hit the trails. They are mesh on top and leather on bottom. They grip really well and protect my hands nicely.

My FS Gary Fisher has one bottle cage. I can only carry a small bottle on it. When I hit the trails, since I am normally out there for over an hour, I wear my Camelbak. I stash my wallet and cell in there in a plastic bag (just in case the bladder breaks in a fall). I feel it is a good thing to keep a cell handy on the trails; especially going solo. I also always wear my RoadID bracelet with contact info and allergies. Always good to have some peace of mind.

I always say, "What is worse, you 'looking a bit dorky' wearing a helmet while you ride or having a head injury?" I'll be a dork thank you very much. hahaha

[Apex]

Here is a thought. Try to stash $20 a week if you can. Over the course of a couple of months, you will have more than enough cash to get a quality bike.

$600 / $20 a week = 30 weeks or 7.5 months.

So at least you know you would have enough to almost afford a new 29-er MTB by Christmas, definitely a 26" bike. Just toss it in a jar marked "Bike Fund". I am going to do the same thing.

$20-30 a week, and that would cover a new bike or bike repairs or new parts. If it isn't in my account, I don't "see" it. Therefore it isn't there and I won't be missing $20 a week. Create a budget. Find all your expenses and document the normal ones (rent, car note, etc), then have a small "misc" fund for whatever you want to buy. What you don't spend out of that fund, move to a bike fund at the end of the month. Only use what is in the MISC fund for that month, don't dip into other funds unless you absolutely have to. I busted hump on Quicken years back and paid off a huge credit debt. I bit the bullet and still got by just fine with only $80 every two weeks to get whatever I wanted. Just have to decide on it.

[massacremasses]

Ill get lucky if I can stash $20 every pay period... :/

I hopefully I can powder coat some stuff and through that into the fund. A few sets of rims and ill have the money for it.

[Apex]

Just work with what you have, and find a clean used ride for cheap.

[massacremasses]

for sure im going used. my buddy is suppose to actually build me a rode bike, but ive been waiting for it for over a year... lol

[choneofakind]

Road bikes are great too! Great way to save time in traffic by drafting off cars, and then passing them when they slow down.

Carrying some form of ID is also good. I have a RoadID and a cell phone on me when I ride as well.

[massacremasses]

I dont plan on wearing spandex. if I get a road bike itll only be because stuarts building me one (or is suppose to be) other wise im getting a MTB

[Apex]

Well the spandex is only really useful on the longer rides. Other wise your shorts would rub your legs raw. I'll wear normal cargo shorts for everything except training rides. I may drop some riding shorts under the cargo shorts if it is a longer ride, where my destination prefers me looking normal.

[choneofakind]

meh, I look great in spandex and licra but seriously you haven't sat on a road bike seat for 60+ miles have you? They're contoured (not cushioned)so they don't apply pressure to ahem... Sensitive areas that Shouldn't have long term applied pressure. You have to bring your own padding in your spandex to make it comfy. Anything under about 20 miles is easily do-able without spandex

A good road saddle should be shaped right so that it fits you without pressure points but is narrow enough to stay out of the way while riding. Cushion not provided
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[Apex]

Who you chatting with?


The longest ride I have done is 90 miles. I couldn't imagine doing that without my cycling shorts.

Personally, I only wear shorts if it is <10 miles. To me that is the longest I will go without my cycling shorts. So much more comfortable.

[massacremasses]

haha that is for the kid building me one. I think Im going to buy an actual mtb.

what do you guys think of this one?

http://www.fezzari.com/hard-tail-cro...ntry/lone-peak

I still might get used, but some stuff (like bikes) are cheap enough I can afford entry level ones new... and since Im so small its hard to find decent ones that are my size.

[choneofakind]

I don't know much about those. I'm not overly fond of the suntour fork on my Giant; its the most obvious compromise on the bike, but it gets the job done I guess. A hardtail with basic components/fork should be just fine for you. As long as the frame is solid, its kinda hard to mess up an entry level mtb.
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[massacremasses]

idk the difference of forks and what that does... so idk

[choneofakind]

Cheap ones tend to not be as adjustable or as high quality, but you should be fine for how you plan to use it.
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[Boom King]

Plus as you go up the ladder a few rungs, the better suspension forks have the option to lock them out. It's a good option to have if you plan to do any riding on smooth surfaces where you want more speed. Higher end ones also use more advanced materials and designs to save on weight while maintaining or increasing durability. Anyways, you need to hit up a couple of local bike shops already. There's really no substitute for seeing the bikes in person, even if you're not planning to buy, in order to have a basic understanding and get a feel for them.

[choneofakind]

Cheap suntour forks have lockout as well. I never use it.
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[massacremasses]

yeah I might swing by the local bike shop this week...


The problem is I am EASILY swayed. So I have to stay out of dealerships and shops because I dont make good decisions. Seriously...

[choneofakind]

Leave your wallet in the car when you go look. Go just to look, not buy.
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[massacremasses]

ha I know the guy who owns it.

I feel bad though going in and getting a bunch of help and then not buying from them. I work in sales, so Id be ****ing pissed if I spend a bunch of time with a dude then he buys somwhere else...

[Apex]

LBS people are used to that. Besides, if you still come back to get your tires and tubes and accessories when you need them, the work of helping you just paid for itself. So they don't really mind. They figure a good experience will bring you back. If not for a bike, then consumables, accessories, or service.

[massacremasses]

hmm thats a good point. Im looking as well and it looks like I have a 30" inseam, 28" Torso, and 26" arms. idk what that means though.. lol

[Apex]

It doesn't mean much. I'd bet you are 17 or 19" in MTB frames. 17 would be compact (easier to fling into turns), 19 would be a longer reach but less twitchy.

[massacremasses]

hmm ive always liked smaller...