Challenge Me....

[csmith12]

Originally Posted by cbinker

can you eat a banana in one bite?

Nope!

Originally Posted by Sirref

Awww sheeiiit it would seem that I'm in for a rain day (thank god for rain race tires and free trackside tire mounting/balancing )

new topic: rain riding at track pace, aka more on how to be smooth on the bike

Is this your first "rainy" track event? I know you rode in the semi wet in FL but is the forecast looking different? Heavier rain?

And... as far as your question goes. You asked about being smoother in the wet. I have given this one some initial thought and I got nothing of real value that I haven't already posted in other threads or you don't already know from us talking about it in the paddock. Also, I am just not sure how it's any different from riding smoothly in the dry aside of not being as aggressive with inputs. I know you have rain tires, that changes some things traction wise but as far as I know, the riding skills portions are nearly identical.

I have resources though , I will have you AND me an answer pretty soon I hope. Or maybe @Misti could shed light here were I cannot.

[Sirref]

yeah, the track was damp in fl but it was dry enough to where there wasn't a traction difference. The only difference there was mental, me holding back because of a lack of traction that I never experienced bc I was holding back

forecast is calling for heavy rain in the AM

that's what I figured, the riding theoretically shouldn't change except to brake sooner and use a slightly slower throttle roll on

[csmith12]

Originally Posted by Sirref

forecast is calling for heavy rain in the AM

that's what I figured, the riding theoretically shouldn't change except to brake sooner and use a slightly slower throttle roll on

AM rain aye, normally I would say booo, but you know imho that every should do a rainy track day. Anyway...

The only thing that I can add right now is. I have 2 sets of markers on tracks that I have ridden in the wet. I have a dry set of markers and a wet set. You know the drill here, the braking markers are way earlier in the wet, the apexes are the same, but the exits are somewhat different. Do you think your turn in point should be moved too?

[Sirref]

I'm tempted to say yes but I don't believe the turn in point should change

UNLESS
you accompany the change (moving turn in point back, turn in earlier) with a slower steering rate, but this doesn't really make much sense to me to do since a slower turn in rate puts you at more risk of losing the front since you're leaned over longer

[Hero Danny]

Emotions/mental state and how it affects your ability to stay safe on two wheels.

[Sirref]

Originally Posted by Hero Danny

Emotions/mental state and how it affects your ability to stay safe on two wheels.

I like this, I think @Motofool posted an article on this a few months back

[csmith12]

Originally Posted by Sirref

I like this, I think @Motofool posted an article on this a few months back

I believe you're right. To me, I follow KISS on this. Unless I am feeling to ride with 100% of what I have, I don't get on. The risk is just too high for me at the speeds I ride.

As a coach though, sure... there are times I would rather not ride, weather, track conditions or maybe even a bit of turtlehead lol. But I have a job to do, so I normally take some time to myself and get my mind straight to do my best, just like anyone else should do, coach or not.

Nobody should force anyone to ride, if you feel forced, then that is a giant red flag to NOT ride.

[csmith12]

Originally Posted by csmith12

I have resources though , I will have you AND me an answer pretty soon I hope. Or maybe @Misti could shed light here were I cannot.

Let's here from Misti also please, but my "other" resource confirms that all the fundamental riding skills are the same, wet or dry.

Knowing my own riding, I must alter some turn in points to certain corners as I believe I am on the very edge of charging them. I will admit here... I am human, some corners are more fun at the bleeding edge. I KNOW for 100% fact I can't get away with some of the stuff I get away with while in the wet. So along with any other credited comments, Imma say... use your noodle. After the number of track days you have taken, you have a good idea when you're cheating the system and when you're not. Adjust as necessary.

[Sirref]

Originally Posted by csmith12

Nobody should force anyone to ride, if you feel forced, then that is a giant red flag to NOT ride.

Some of the worst track crashes I've seen were when people went out to ride when it was obvious to them that they weren't feeling it. Personally I cannot ride if I am feeling rushed and find myself benefiting more from taking a break than I would from riding poorly or crashing.

"Nature does not hurry, yet everything is accomplished." - Lao Tzu

Less is more, especially when doing something that requires focus. If your mind is distracted and filled with clutter then you're never going to feel one of the best feelings there is in life. The flow when you are riding hard and smooth, when you know you can push harder but don't feel the need to at that moment because you're already flying and enjoying yourself.

[Hero Danny]

Originally Posted by csmith12

Nobody should force anyone to ride, if you feel forced, then that is a giant red flag to NOT ride.

Impossible. I'm literally always up to ride.

[Sirref]

Originally Posted by Hero Danny

Impossible. I'm literally always up to ride.

Just because you haven't experienced something doesn't mean you won't. You've never ridden track, it's a completely different beast.

[Hero Danny]

Originally Posted by Sirref

Just because you haven't experienced something doesn't mean you won't. You've never ridden track, it's a completely different beast.

I cannot wait to find out!

[Sirref]

Originally Posted by Hero Danny

I cannot wait to find out!

Do you know when you're going to be able to get to the track, I'd say your best bet is to get there on a day when other ninjette members are there. It makes the day a lot better to be able to meet and ride with the folk on the forum

[csmith12]

I haven't forgot about ya @snot, just been busy at work. The passing question is still open too.

[snot]

It's ok, I am patient

[Sirref]

Here's a good one

passing a rider who is slower but not by that much, how to pass rather than get sucked into their pace and subsequently stuck behind them rather than continuing to chase down the coach/rider you were targeting. It's not as big of a deal in a track day setting but in a race setting it'd make a huge difference.

edit: update on rain, rain stopped early but the track was super slick session one. It got better across the morning and had acceptable grip in the afternoon, never managed to really get heat into my tires like I do at jennings

[csmith12]

Originally Posted by Sirref

Here's a good one

passing a rider who is slower but not by that much, how to pass rather than get sucked into their pace and subsequently stuck behind them rather than continuing to chase down the coach/rider you were targeting. It's not as big of a deal in a track day setting but in a race setting it'd make a huge difference.

The quick answer...

This is a vision problem 2 fold.

1st part; Your vision lingers on the rider in front of you too long and you may start to let that rider's riding leak into yours. ie, start to ride their pace, start to ride their lines, turn in points, braking, accel, ect... ect...

2nd part; With your field of attention slimmed down to include a near rider, it can keep you from seeing passing opportunities ahead of time. This is why Misti recommends not only looking ahead, but wider as well.

When passing a rider that is only slightly slower than you, you have to plan it out ahead of time or take advantage of a mistake. Be ready to take different lines to set up the pass. If everyone always follows the race line, nobody would pass anyone. Take a session and try different lines through the corners. The track is full of good and bad lines, you remember how to find and validate a good line right? And, if you are better at a certain section of the track, then that should be where you make the pass, planning it came before that section, not IN that section.

[Sirref]

It makes sense to me that it's a vision issue, I feel that I was affected more by the first part than the second and did the majority of my passes under braking bc I tend to not trust most riders in novice enough to pass them on the outside mid-corner after seeing them swing excessively wide mid-corner. I'd just go under them (and be just fine doing so) if it were a legal pass but I get why that rule is there and stick to it for that reason.

I like passing under braking

[csmith12]

Originally Posted by Sirref

It makes sense to me that it's a vision issue, I feel that I was affected more by the first part than the second and did the majority of my passes under braking bc I tend to not trust most riders in novice enough to pass them on the outside mid-corner after seeing them swing excessively wide mid-corner. I'd just go under them (and be just fine doing so) if it were a legal pass but I get why that rule is there and stick to it for that reason.

I like passing under braking

Sure! It's pretty fun to pass on the brakes right at corner entry. It's pretty telling who has bigger stones on the brakes or can carry more entry speed. And besides... the spectators love a good battle that is decided at the very last second before the corner.

But remember when we rode together on the track? While behind you filming my lines were all over the track to get the best and most helpful video I could get without disturbing your groove.

There are other reasons why you would want to find other lines through the corners. Maybe somebody spilled oil. Poor tarmac conditions, maybe the org just puts cones in places for safety reasons to force an alternate line. Or maybe worse stuff like a bike or rider laying in the middle of the track. You have seen that one before too. You just got to be ready when you see that yellow flag waving ya know..

[Sirref]

being able to change lines at a moments notice is pretty critical on the street as well

I tend to, intentionally, ride every line imaginable on the street at one point or another for that reason. I'll spend some time working on alt lines when I get to NJMP in 10 days...assuming I figure out the issues with the gsxr and fix them but that's a different discussion

I heard something that's a good idea to work on and figured this would be a good thread for it: When coming to a stop brake in such a way that the front end stays completely still when you finish stopping. I.e. the front doesn't bounce back at all. This is way easier said than done and requires you to be incredibly smooth on the brakes, I've been trying it every time I get on the brakes for the past few days and have only managed to do it twice out of 100+ tries. The end result conceivably is that it teaches you to be smoother on the brakes so you can trail them into a corner better at higher lean. "the fastest riders have the slowest hands" type thing

[csmith12]

This is a great discussion, your thinking...

Sounds like some fun stuff to try in a parking lot as practice. I would avoid that in high traffic areas though.

#1 goal of braking - get your entry speed perfect.

Doing that while track riding you're setting up an important and subtle "race condition". You asked how to get "smoother brake to throttle transitions", so let's have a closer look and I bet we can figger it out ...

When trying to casually stop the bike's at it's sag measures (neutral suspension), it's easy to know the rider has reached their comfortable speed BEFORE the suspension returns to that neutral state (speeds near 0mph normally poses no speed concerns). So you're free to take as long as you need to work on brake finesse (skill isolation ya know).

On the track though, it's another story. Your main goal is to get to your entry speed and get back to the throttle asap. So it's gunna be a race to what happens first, will you reach your entry speed first or will you reach neutral suspension first?

Let's ask some deeper questions then...
Does it matter which you reach first?
Should you reach one before the other?
Should you reach them at the same time?

[Sirref]

For purposes of this post apex = the slowest point of the corner where you begin your roll on, which can be earlier than the corner's physical apex

It does matter which one you reach first, You want to reach your entry speed first as you're still trailing the brakes to the apex in a perfect world where the apex is the slowest part of the corner (though usually not by much)

In a perfect world you would reach the apex at neutral suspension and the dialed in speed, which is a large reason you trail the brakes in the first place, at the same time. This allows for you to begin your throttle roll on at the apex without any complaints from the front suspension about being suddenly decompressed. This is perfect world though, actually pulling this off is far easier said than done

[csmith12]

Hmmm... what about this then, how does lean angle play a role here? if the apex is the slowest part of the corner, would you also carry the most lean angle at apex (in a perfect world)?

[Sirref]

Originally Posted by csmith12

Sounds like some fun stuff to try in a parking lot as practice. I would avoid that in high traffic areas though.

I've been practicing it everywhere I stop or brake, it doesn't diminish your braking power at all just changes how you approach braking.

When braking to a stop the norm is to brake lightly then progressively increase braking until you stop, which is fine but will cause the forks to rebound slightly as you stop.
The difference is that with this approach you smoothly apply the brakes so the forks act much like a V. You still compress the forks under braking, as that is inevitable with any real braking power. Smoothly add braking force from nothing until maximum braking then slowly ease off the brakes back to neutral.

So on track, or taking any corner really, you would smoothly apply the braking force as you start braking which allows you to use more braking power without bottoming out the forks (a genuine problem on my track 250, super soft (stock) forks + upgraded front caliper/rotor that provides more stopping power than the forks can actually handle if you "step on the brakes") then get your braking done at max braking and turn in and smoothly trail the brakes through until the apex arriving at neutral sag just in time to roll on the throttle


On the topic of lean angle, max lean angle would be at the apex, though I am sure there are exceptions to this rule that I am not thinking of

[Sirref]

Max lean could occur earlier though, as trailing the brakes in this way satisfies the suspension much like a throttle roll on would. Reducing load on the front and transferring it to the rear

the throttle and brake are one control, not two separate controls as we are inclined to believe. Transferring between the two "should be" seamless at all times. To decrease throttle is to brake and to decrease braking force is to accelerate if that makes any sense at all

[csmith12]

I completely understand what you're doing, it's how my dad taught me to brake in a car when I first started driving. "Ease up on the brake that last 20ft before ya come to a full stop we don't get whiplash".

Originally Posted by Sirref

It does matter which one you reach first, You want to reach your entry speed first as you're still trailing the brakes to the apex in a perfect world where the apex is the slowest part of the corner (though usually not by much)

I don't believe you should be putting so much weight on the apex. So let me throw you a hint... The general rule of thumb is to get back to the gas as soon as steering is complete. And if you're trailing, you get back to the gas as soon as your entry speed is perfect. If that is at the apex fine enough, if it's before... all the better.

imho... there is a balance between flick rate and the speed a rider releases the brake to control trail off to compensate for the lean angle needed to make the line. Honestly, from what I know and my own experience, it's a trade off for an earlier turn in point that "feels" better. When "I" am in practice mode, I would rather spend my time setting a good turn in point, entry speed and getting the bike turned faster. Which means less time is spent trailing the brakes and spend more time on the throttle throughout the corner. It's just as fast when looking at lap times and feels overall safer to me. I am not totally against trailing really, really deep or even somewhere in between, it's a useful tool when needed to guard against a pass but it's not something I strive for in every corner. Realistically, many corners lend themselves to a bit of trail braking as the rider sees fit and it's not all bad either.

Notice there was no mention of apex anywhere in that last part...

[Sirref]

Note I redefined apex because I couldn't think of a better word to use so what we're saying isn't too different. I get what you're saying, slightly surprised that trailbraking doesn't make that big of a difference but it makes sense if you're accelerating sooner to have any time lost be made right back up.

Looks like it's a stylistic difference based on rider preference, I'll have to try both to figure out which I prefer and that preference may change track to track. I see NJMP as more of a track where trailbraking would feel more natural and summit point main as more of a track where flicking the bike over and getting back on the gas asap would pay dividends at the end of each straight.

[csmith12]

Originally Posted by Sirref

Note I redefined apex because I couldn't think of a better word to use so what we're saying isn't too different. I get what you're saying, slightly surprised that trailbraking doesn't make that big of a difference but it makes sense if you're accelerating sooner to have any time lost be made right back up.

Looks like it's a stylistic difference based on rider preference, I'll have to try both to figure out which I prefer and that preference may change track to track. I see NJMP as more of a track where trailbraking would feel more natural and summit point main as more of a track where flicking the bike over and getting back on the gas asap would pay dividends at the end of each straight.

I am sure some riders trail more than others. Take Mid-Ohio for example, I trail the crap outta turns 1 and 7 but wouldn't consider trailing very deep into 8 and 11 accept under very, very good traction conditions. When I am at anywhere near full lean, I would rather be on the throttle than on the brakes or in a somewhat neutral state.

[Misti]

Originally Posted by Sirref

I'm tempted to say yes but I don't believe the turn in point should change

UNLESS
you accompany the change (moving turn in point back, turn in earlier) with a slower steering rate, but this doesn't really make much sense to me to do since a slower turn in rate puts you at more risk of losing the front since you're leaned over longer

Here is a simple question that may help you come up with an answer.... Can you turn the bike as quickly in the wet as you can in the dry? What does that do to your turn in point?

Misti

[Sirref]

Originally Posted by Misti

Here is a simple question that may help you come up with an answer.... Can you turn the bike as quickly in the wet as you can in the dry? What does that do to your turn in point?

Misti

On the street, yes for several reasons including reduced pace as well as tires that are designed for better wet grip

On track, almost. It moves the braking point and turn in point earlier slightly but not by much. I also don't use as much lean in the wet (likely mental more than anything else, just need more track time in wet conditions) while turning in slightly slower but still quick. How big of a difference depends on conditions. The goal is still to get the bike leaned over as quickly as possible

[csmith12]

Originally Posted by snot

Without upsetting the suspension, in a corner....going in to hot. How do you keep from making it worst? I get the each time braking distance should increase... But where do you start?

Let’s start with these 2 questions because they are pretty darn important.

Where do you start with picking a brake marker?: When I read a few riding skills books I found this area to be somewhat lacking. I understand why too… it’s vague, you may be fighting your SR’s and feels somewhat questionable until you establish a baseline. Which is exactly what we are going to do.

Do you remember doing the no brake drill during track school at Mid-Ohio? This is the beginning of how your find your very first, and very safe braking marker, as well as a 75% skill entry speed as a bonus. Without worrying about other braking inputs and all that shifting of gears, how much of your attention did you have to focus on entry speed? Nearly all of it aye? Now if you can remember again, where did you roll off the gas for turn 7? If you can remember that point on the track, congratulations, you had just set your very first braking marker. But let’s look closer, why am I talking about the no brake drill while on the subject of braking? Because during the drill you were goals were to set entry speed and a turn in point. It’s important to know that your turn in point and your braking marker are attached at the hip. If you move your turn in point, your brake marker can also be moved respectively. To put it simply, if your braking in a straight line, that line has a start (brake marker) and end (turn in point). Move either of those points, and the line (braking distance available) will be shorter or longer based on your movement(s). Understanding the relationship between those two points is the key to getting most out of your brakes (and is one of the secrets of advanced passing skills @alex.s). From that point on, small forward movements (about a bike length) of the brake marker can be made to decrease the amount of track space between that new marker and the turns turn in point. You should remember to do your hard braking near the front end of that braking line (braking zone) and trail off the brake before the turn in point to accurately set your entry speed. And… since we don’t normally downshift in turns, downshifting is another activity that is timed in the braking zone and based off the turn in point.

Without upsetting the suspension, in a corner....going in to hot. How do you keep from making it worst?: First! An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Getting a handle on the needed skills to negotiate a corner well should be done before testing higher speeds that may trigger the going in to hot SR. When you overcook a turn, don't panic! Unless you're nearly at race pace, truly overcooking the turn entry is kinda rare on modern bike hardware. It’s an SR, and part of the point of asking questions and learning is how to handle those SR’s effectively. Mainly though, chopping the throttle will make the instability worse in many ways and get your lower body in position while on the gas and get your grip and arms loose just before your braking marker and stay there! This will prevent much instability before it even starts.

In my experience, the most common entry speed issues are over braking, followed by an entry speed that is only mildly over the riders comfortable entry speed sending them wide because the rider may feel they can’t turn in time. This is where knowing how to hook turn can pay big dividends. The SR will trigger that the rider is going too fast, and then the rider causes 99% of the instabilities by reacting to the SR’s vs making corrective actions. Look where you want to go, keep loose, and move that head and torso much, much lower and to the inside while maintaining good throttle control. This will maintain and even improve stability if you find yourself running wide in a corner for any reason. Do not move your lower body off the bike at this time as it will add instability.

When the rider feels they more than mildly over their comfortable entry speed. There are 2 main schools of thought on how to handle it; just gas it and lean it, which plays on the above statement that overcooking the turn is rare. The other is an product (result) of decisive actions; stay calm and loose, reduce lean angle, brake to a more controllable speed, repoint the bike (re-steer) and restart throttle roll. Only one of these puts the rider in complete 100% control, 100% of the time, while maintaining as much stability as possible. While the other leaves the rider at the mercy of speed, the bike, available traction and a bit of blind luck, and at the same time, the rider may be fighting the bike due to the SR’s.

So assuming you as the rider wants to be in complete control all the time. If you find yourself too hot on entry; stay calm and loose, reduce lean angle, brake, repoint then restart your throttle roll. To just throttle it out and add lean as needed is a common reason for crashes. The reason this works, is also based on the first school of thought. WTF how?!?!?!? Think about it honestly, since it’s rare to “really” overcook a corner, then you shouldn’t be so far off your corner entry speed and line that the rider cannot complete these actions while still remaining on the track surface. Now let’s be realistic here, surface elevation change can make doing this visually very difficult. When you can't see how much tarmac to work with the SR’s are much, much worse.

There is an exception to doing this though, if there is a rider to your outside you can’t run them over, possibly crashing two riders instead of one and so goes the risk of riding fast…

There is also another option as a last resort depending on how comfortable you are with alternate lines through the corner. If a rider overcooks their normal turn in point, do they know another line that allows for additional braking distance? When a rider “seriously” overcooks a corner, your turn in point can be near the edge of the track before the corner followed by a quick flick. Check the red car in the image below, the other cars in the image have their various turn in points but the red car hasn’t turned yet. Compare the orange car to the red car. The orange car has a better turn in point for the corner, but if the red car overshot the entry speed, the red car can move the turn in point closer to the edge of the tarmac to allow for more braking distance while straight up vs trying to brake in the corner adding instability and possibly overloading the front wheel causing a lowside. @lowcel has witnessed me do just this, that extra 50ft of braking distance made the difference between making the corner vs making sand castles in china beach. hahahahahahaha Talking to a coach about how you "blew the corner" is a much better conversation than a chat in the medical building about what happened in the corner.




When to dip and roll on?: What do you mean here? Turn and start to roll the throttle?

[csmith12]

Originally Posted by alex.s

i got a more advanced topic for ya when you get to it, mr champion

making and defending passes! was hoping you could cover a few different types of passes you can make, and how they effect your line down the road, and where you need to defend, or where you can try to retake after a pass has been made

omg... I am about 50% done with this reply and it's going to be epic! Every racer is going to hate me. lol Hell, I might hate myself for giving away such things.

Here is a sample;

After ANY race pace pass... the rider must quickly shift their senses away from elevated forces that allowed the pass in the first place. Then replace them with lesser, comfortable and more confidence inspiring forces.

Understanding that deep trail braking weighs heavier on the rider's senses than a smooth roll on, is just one example of satisfying the bikes needs to provide the rider with the cornering feedback they are after. Depending on the rider's limits, getting a smooth early roll on defends a late braking pass, riding as if they were qualifying. It's just hard for many riders to mentally grasp there is an alternate path to stability, and even harder to execute when the rider is convinced they must continue to brake.

[csmith12]

Here is another sneak peek Alex!

Your bike is a missile right? How many keys does it take to launch a missile? Many movies depict that it takes 2 keys. The two keys used to get maximum drive through a corner to keep the rider in 2nd place firmly in 2nd place are getting the bike turned faster than them and beating them back to the throttle.

Steering is so important... that many riders may subconsciously adjust their turn in points based on their skills at getting the bike turned to make their intended line. And since the turn in point affects so many other aspects of braking and cornering, if a rider wants to go faster than the rider in front of him. The answer is pretty simple, outsteer them. The added quickness and accuracy in steering will allow for getting back to the throttle faster and many lines can be carved tighter. If a rider can shave a foot or two of track on a few corners over the course of a 10 lap race, that means the winning rider covered less distance, faster and with more confidence in their riding.

Have you ever encountered a corner that only required a small hint of brake? Let me turn this upside down! What IF?!?!?! You could adjust your approach to the corner with the thinking that the rider could go faster through the corner by better throttle control and better steering? The rider could find the confidence to make the corner by slowing down or... create stability with good throttle control knowing they have the confidence to get the bike turned quickly and accurately.

No more sneak peeks until I am finished with this...

[alex.s]

those tippy toe brakes on turn in... i hate when i do that when i know i can just do a 10% roll off or even just take it wide open with softer steering. its a fear thing i guess

[csmith12]

Originally Posted by alex.s

those tippy toe brakes on turn in... i hate when i do that when i know i can just do a 10% roll off or even just take it wide open with softer steering. its a fear thing i guess

Yep... it's a sr for sure. Turn 12 at Jennings did it to me in Feb. on my 08 r6. It's plain out a faster bike than my 06. I found myself rolling off through there to calm myself down after watching my friends fly through pinned. Right now, I am chalking it up to "the rider not confident enough to steer" as it was that bike's first track experience.

Funny story... In most of left corners, it would get some medium chatter post apex. Turns out, the gent that I bought it from left it sit for 1.5yrs without moving, it and had some mild flat spots. The chatter was every lap but only at slow/med. paces, but think about it more, what side of the bike is the sidestand on? It put the lean angle right about the same it would sit on the side stand. A new set of tires and poof! No more chatter.

Bummer is, I spent 3/4ths of a day, trying to figger out if it was me causing the chatter trying to get used to a "new to me" bike. So goes the life of a rider trying to git-r-done at the track.

/sigh... To be the coach I want to be, I must get faster at figuring out these kinds of simple things. "Every Lap", "only slow/med pace" and "only lefts" tells the story.

[Sirref]

Turn 12 at jennings is special, T2 is one thing, you still see mad run off so it's easier to get comfortable flying through there but T12 you see trees in your peripheral vision

this does affect my confidence in some corners, which is silly considering I ride shenny a lot where the run off is about as bad as a public road

[Sirref]

Originally Posted by csmith12

There are 2 paths to improvements. The bad AND the good.

Elaborating on this would make a great article that would be useful for many people, myself included, as a study of the process and approaches of improving at riding, and pretty much everything else really.

[allanoue]

[Sirref]

Well I believe a challenge was what was asked for

[csmith12]

Originally Posted by Sirref

Elaborating on this would make a great article that would be useful for many people

ikr!!!

I am not sure I am qualified to write anything on this. Lemme think about it and see if I can base it on any real "proven" facts vs experience. This is a good question and one that does "challenge" me.