Time to replace stock chain?

Lurkable · September 9th, 2010, 05:40 PM

So my chain slack currently ranges from 0.5" in one place to 2.0" in others, time to replace?

I heard the chain slapping the swingarm for the first time today just as I got back home from class. New chain and sprockets are in the mail, should be here any day now. I'm just wondering if it's safe to ride tomorrow at least...

Should I tighten the chain a little so it's not so bad in certain places? Then again, part of the chain is already too tight running at 0.5" slack... and I'm going to have to ride it to the dealership at least for service and chain/sprockets install.

(This is in the wrong section btw, but I suppose it applies to both old and new-gen.)

KURT · September 9th, 2010, 07:14 PM

Do you have access to a hand grinder? You could replace the chain, on your own, and take it to the shop for sprockets, if need be.

bob706 · September 9th, 2010, 07:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lurkable

So my chain slack currently ranges from 0.5" in one place to 2.0" in others, time to replace?

YES

Btw, how many miles on the chain?

Lurkable · September 9th, 2010, 09:17 PM

23k on the chain, and yeah I would do the chain and sprockets myself but don't really have the tools I would need, like anything to break the chain and maybe a breaker bar for front sprocket.

FrugalNinja250 · September 10th, 2010, 06:32 AM

Front sprocket floats on the output shaft, held in place by a small keeper that fits into a groove on the shaft and that bolts to the sprocket with two small screws. Hardest part about replacing the front sprocket is cleaning all the splooge out of the sprocket cover.

mrlmd · September 10th, 2010, 07:53 AM

Look on the owner's manual or search for the position where you check for the proper chain slack. It varies on different parts of the chain, is tighter on the top where you measure than on the bottom which has more slack. What you are describing may be normal but you might want to change it anyway with 23,000 miles on it. And it's a good idea to change the sprockets at the same time.

Rayme · September 10th, 2010, 08:37 AM

Did the chain stretched ? Or you are just going by the slack? Mine at 16 000 KM had no stretch at all.

CZroe · September 10th, 2010, 08:49 AM

I heard my chain on the swingarm guide at 1,500 miles. Replaced at 12,500 miles.

AFAIK, chain slack has nothing to do with the replacement interval. You're supposed to check and adjust that regularly.

Lurkable · September 17th, 2010, 03:55 PM

I'm taking my bike in this coming Tuesday for service and to have chain/sprockets replaced. I'd rather just ride it to the place (which is 15 miles away) and avoid the hassle of getting it towed if possible. But I'm starting to worry that this is just not safe at all...opinions?

I just loosened the chain a little so it's not so incredibly tight in some places and rode it around the block. But it's still tight enough that I hear a popping noise when those parts of the chain rotate off the sprockets. And it's loose enough in other places that it slaps the swing arm as well.

Would I be better off loosening it to the point where I don't hear the popping anymore or just leave it how it is considering parts of the chain already are hitting the swing arm? Or am I just a suicidal jerk for even considering riding it on the freeway at this point?

kkim · September 17th, 2010, 04:09 PM

obviously, you have some tight spots in the chain. normally, that is most times caused by the links binding due to rust or lack of lubrication. try spraying the entire chain length w/ wd40 and see if it loosens up the tight spots so the range of tight to loose is not as great so you can ride it to the shop safely.

I dunno... pops and slaps from the drive train is never a good thing to have on any vehicle.

why is your chain trying to derail when tight? is your chain properly aligned?

KELPHYN · September 18th, 2010, 03:13 PM

got 24000kms on my oem chain, 14000kms on my second. The second chain was an after market brand-x don't remember the name. Most after-market chains are rated for life expectancy,(miles before replacement) the cheaper the chain the shorter the life. My second chain lasted about as long as claim was for. The higher mileage chains are usually of a rivet on design and I don't have a Riveter, so I opted for the cheaper clip style masterlink brand so I could do it myself.
On a side note did you opt for the 15t front sprocket ungrade, since your changing it? It's worth it.

Lurkable · September 22nd, 2010, 07:42 PM

Thanks all, I actually rode it to the dealer and lived to tell the story. It may have been out of alignment in addition to just being horribly tight in some places.

On a side note...don't use brake cleaner on your chain.

Also, I did in fact switch to a 15-tooth front sprocket and just rode it back home a few hours ago... love, love, love, love, LOVE it!

demp · September 24th, 2010, 05:52 AM

Yep... this sounds a little TOO familiar. I had the exact same thing happen, tight spots all over the chain. Replaced the chain a few thousand K back, put on a new DID gold colored one... It got so bad that I literally had the chain fly off while going down the highway one morning... Yeah yeah I know. Stupid.

Couldn't be happier with the new chain, oh god it's nice to get a new one on after dealing with something like that eh?

trex · March 16th, 2011, 07:20 AM

hey bringing this back from the dead. trying to get the bike back into shape as it has been sitting neglected for a year... see below

sorry some are blurry...camera had trouble focusing

so...yea...no i have not checked to see if i am within the 1" tightness spec...i tried to pull the chain from the sprocket to see if there was any slack and was unable to....o rings dont show any signs of leaking and as far as i can tell no cracking either....so it looks like it is mainly the rust...the white residue is old lube....so what do yall think? time to replace?

edit: just realized this is in the pre 08' section...sry...this is a new gen bike though

Momaru · March 16th, 2011, 07:54 AM

From the opinion of someone that also probably needs to replace his chain, that looks more like the surface rust I picked up from winter '09-'10 having to store it outside (lubed it up too). Chain worked just fine all last year for me once I limbered it up. IIRC you shouldn't be able to just pull the chain off the back side of the rear sprocket, so that seems normal (otherwise it'd constantly be in danger of coming off while riding).

I'd do the usual tension check, see if there's any super-tight (or super-loose) spots and make sure all the links articulate properly. If the tension can be adjusted to in-spec and all the links move like they should, I'd stop worrying, lube that baby and get riding.

trex · March 16th, 2011, 07:59 AM

^well do...ill give it the non spray WD 40 bath and check tension and report back.

"A" · March 16th, 2011, 05:10 PM

23k miles on a chain it quite enough.
Inspect for stiff links, worn seals and slack between rollers.
Better to replace chain before it breaks during a ride.

kkim · March 16th, 2011, 05:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by "A"

23k miles on a chain it quite enough.
Inspect for stiff links, worn seals and slack between rollers.
Better to replace chain before it breaks during a ride.

I must have missed it... where does he say he has 23k on that chain?

edit... never mind. I see you were replying to the original post.

coondog · March 18th, 2011, 06:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by trex

^well do...ill give it the non spray WD 40 bath and check tension and report back.

WD40 is probably what caused the rust spots. Not a Lube in chain terms.

trex · March 18th, 2011, 11:05 PM

^right...not using it as a lube...using it as a cleaner....followed by a lube with proper chain lube

September 9th, 2010, 05:40 PM	#1
Lurkable 250Arrrgh! Name: Andrew Location: San Francisco Join Date: Jan 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2009 250R, 2001 996 Posts: 143	Time to replace stock chain? So my chain slack currently ranges from 0.5" in one place to 2.0" in others, time to replace? I heard the chain slapping the swingarm for the first time today just as I got back home from class. New chain and sprockets are in the mail, should be here any day now. I'm just wondering if it's safe to ride tomorrow at least... Should I tighten the chain a little so it's not so bad in certain places? Then again, part of the chain is already too tight running at 0.5" slack... and I'm going to have to ride it to the dealership at least for service and chain/sprockets install. (This is in the wrong section btw, but I suppose it applies to both old and new-gen.)

September 9th, 2010, 09:17 PM	#4
Lurkable 250Arrrgh! Name: Andrew Location: San Francisco Join Date: Jan 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2009 250R, 2001 996 Posts: 143	23k on the chain, and yeah I would do the chain and sprockets myself but don't really have the tools I would need, like anything to break the chain and maybe a breaker bar for front sprocket. Last futzed with by Lurkable; September 9th, 2010 at 10:27 PM.

September 10th, 2010, 08:37 AM	#7
Rayme ninjette.org guru Name: Remy Location: Moncton Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): '04 sv650s Posts: 438	Did the chain stretched ? Or you are just going by the slack? Mine at 16 000 KM had no stretch at all. __________________________________________________ There's 2 types of people in this world, those who complain and those who act.

March 16th, 2011, 07:54 AM	#15
Momaru ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Paul Location: Roanoke, VA Join Date: Jun 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Candy Plasma Blue 250R Posts: A lot.	From the opinion of someone that also probably needs to replace his chain, that looks more like the surface rust I picked up from winter '09-'10 having to store it outside (lubed it up too). Chain worked just fine all last year for me once I limbered it up. IIRC you shouldn't be able to just pull the chain off the back side of the rear sprocket, so that seems normal (otherwise it'd constantly be in danger of coming off while riding). I'd do the usual tension check, see if there's any super-tight (or super-loose) spots and make sure all the links articulate properly. If the tension can be adjusted to in-spec and all the links move like they should, I'd stop worrying, lube that baby and get riding. __________________________________________________ Proud member of the Blue Army

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September 9th, 2010, 07:14 PM	#2
KURT Resident Old Guy Name: Kurt Location: Goodyear, Az Join Date: Jul 2010 Motorcycle(s): sold Posts: 264	Do you have access to a hand grinder? You could replace the chain, on your own, and take it to the shop for sprockets, if need be.

September 10th, 2010, 06:32 AM	#5
FrugalNinja250 ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Frugal Location: Dallas/Fort Worth (DFW) Join Date: Mar 2010 Motorcycle(s): Several Posts: A lot.	Front sprocket floats on the output shaft, held in place by a small keeper that fits into a groove on the shaft and that bolts to the sprocket with two small screws. Hardest part about replacing the front sprocket is cleaning all the splooge out of the sprocket cover.

September 10th, 2010, 07:53 AM	#6
mrlmd ninjette.org sage Name: Marc Location: Crawfordville, Florida Join Date: Jan 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2005 Suzuki S50, 2006 Kawasaki Ninja EX250F, 1990 Honda PC800, 2000 Yamaha TW200 Posts: 848	Look on the owner's manual or search for the position where you check for the proper chain slack. It varies on different parts of the chain, is tighter on the top where you measure than on the bottom which has more slack. What you are describing may be normal but you might want to change it anyway with 23,000 miles on it. And it's a good idea to change the sprockets at the same time.

September 10th, 2010, 08:49 AM	#8
CZroe CPT Falcon Name: J.Emmett Turner Location: Newnan, GA Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): '08 CP Blue EX250J, '97 unpainted EX250F, 2nd '97 unpainted EX250F (no engine), '07 black EX250F Posts: A lot.	I heard my chain on the swingarm guide at 1,500 miles. Replaced at 12,500 miles. AFAIK, chain slack has nothing to do with the replacement interval. You're supposed to check and adjust that regularly.

September 17th, 2010, 03:55 PM	#9
Lurkable 250Arrrgh! Name: Andrew Location: San Francisco Join Date: Jan 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2009 250R, 2001 996 Posts: 143	I'm taking my bike in this coming Tuesday for service and to have chain/sprockets replaced. I'd rather just ride it to the place (which is 15 miles away) and avoid the hassle of getting it towed if possible. But I'm starting to worry that this is just not safe at all...opinions? I just loosened the chain a little so it's not so incredibly tight in some places and rode it around the block. But it's still tight enough that I hear a popping noise when those parts of the chain rotate off the sprockets. And it's loose enough in other places that it slaps the swing arm as well. Would I be better off loosening it to the point where I don't hear the popping anymore or just leave it how it is considering parts of the chain already are hitting the swing arm? Or am I just a suicidal jerk for even considering riding it on the freeway at this point?

September 17th, 2010, 04:09 PM	#10
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	obviously, you have some tight spots in the chain. normally, that is most times caused by the links binding due to rust or lack of lubrication. try spraying the entire chain length w/ wd40 and see if it loosens up the tight spots so the range of tight to loose is not as great so you can ride it to the shop safely. I dunno... pops and slaps from the drive train is never a good thing to have on any vehicle. why is your chain trying to derail when tight? is your chain properly aligned?

September 18th, 2010, 03:13 PM	#11
KELPHYN ninjette.org guru Name: Calvin Location: Quesnel, B.C Join Date: Aug 2009 Motorcycle(s): '08 250R (sold), 2013 300SE Posts: 276	got 24000kms on my oem chain, 14000kms on my second. The second chain was an after market brand-x don't remember the name. Most after-market chains are rated for life expectancy,(miles before replacement) the cheaper the chain the shorter the life. My second chain lasted about as long as claim was for. The higher mileage chains are usually of a rivet on design and I don't have a Riveter, so I opted for the cheaper clip style masterlink brand so I could do it myself. On a side note did you opt for the 15t front sprocket ungrade, since your changing it? It's worth it.

September 22nd, 2010, 07:42 PM	#12
Lurkable 250Arrrgh! Name: Andrew Location: San Francisco Join Date: Jan 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2009 250R, 2001 996 Posts: 143	Thanks all, I actually rode it to the dealer and lived to tell the story. It may have been out of alignment in addition to just being horribly tight in some places. On a side note...don't use brake cleaner on your chain. Also, I did in fact switch to a 15-tooth front sprocket and just rode it back home a few hours ago... love, love, love, love, LOVE it!

September 24th, 2010, 05:52 AM	#13
demp ninjette.org sage Name: Matthew Location: Toronto Join Date: May 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2015 V-Star 950 Tourer (Deep Blue) Posts: 570	Yep... this sounds a little TOO familiar. I had the exact same thing happen, tight spots all over the chain. Replaced the chain a few thousand K back, put on a new DID gold colored one... It got so bad that I literally had the chain fly off while going down the highway one morning... Yeah yeah I know. Stupid. Couldn't be happier with the new chain, oh god it's nice to get a new one on after dealing with something like that eh?

March 16th, 2011, 07:20 AM	#14
trex ninjette.org member Name: Matt Location: St. Louis Join Date: Mar 2011 Motorcycle(s): 250r '08 Candy Plasma (best) Blue Posts: 80	hey bringing this back from the dead. trying to get the bike back into shape as it has been sitting neglected for a year... see below sorry some are blurry...camera had trouble focusing so...yea...no i have not checked to see if i am within the 1" tightness spec...i tried to pull the chain from the sprocket to see if there was any slack and was unable to....o rings dont show any signs of leaking and as far as i can tell no cracking either....so it looks like it is mainly the rust...the white residue is old lube....so what do yall think? time to replace? edit: just realized this is in the pre 08' section...sry...this is a new gen bike though

March 16th, 2011, 07:59 AM	#16
trex ninjette.org member Name: Matt Location: St. Louis Join Date: Mar 2011 Motorcycle(s): 250r '08 Candy Plasma (best) Blue Posts: 80	^well do...ill give it the non spray WD 40 bath and check tension and report back.

March 16th, 2011, 05:10 PM	#17
"A" vampire Name: A Location: IT Join Date: Feb 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2 many 2 list Posts: A lot.	23k miles on a chain it quite enough. Inspect for stiff links, worn seals and slack between rollers. Better to replace chain before it breaks during a ride.

March 18th, 2011, 11:05 PM	#20
trex ninjette.org member Name: Matt Location: St. Louis Join Date: Mar 2011 Motorcycle(s): 250r '08 Candy Plasma (best) Blue Posts: 80	^right...not using it as a lube...using it as a cleaner....followed by a lube with proper chain lube