December 15th, 2011, 01:22 PM | #1 |
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Riveting new master-link
I just put on a new chain/sprockets last night. Last time I just used a clip-style master, but this time I went with a riveting link. I followed the directions for the Motion-Pro press/rivet tool as close as I could. Unfortunately the new chain (RK) did not specify how much to flare the rivets, so I went with the middle number listed on the tool's instructions. Unfortunately the link is a bit stiff, and one of the O-rings (WX-ring) looks like it is bulging out a bit.
Should it be OK to go with the current laster a little tight, or will I need to order a new master, cut the old off, and try again?
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December 15th, 2011, 01:46 PM | #2 |
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If you decide to do it again, you can use digital callipers to measure the distance between the outer plates on the master link and compare to no-master link plates.
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December 15th, 2011, 10:30 PM | #3 |
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I think you will see more benefit if you put a new one on. Reason being if there is a lot of compression on that o-ring, there will be increased wear. Same goes for the stiff link (likely due to the tight o-ring). And as they say, the chain is only as strong as the weakest link.
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December 16th, 2011, 12:56 AM | #4 |
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New master is in the mail....
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December 16th, 2011, 06:45 AM | #5 |
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Good choice!
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December 16th, 2011, 08:45 AM | #6 |
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Now I'm trying to figure out how to get the old link off, w/o damaging adjacent links....
I know I can grind the rivets, and cut the plate, but I can't push out a pin on a master. I anticipate it will still be a bit tight, as just pressing the plates took a bit of effort. Any tricks?
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December 16th, 2011, 09:09 AM | #7 | |
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Quote:
Also, don't get too hung-up on not utilzing a masterlink with clip. I use them all the time on 200+ hp sportbikes, along with 50+ hp mx bikes. Either application puts far more stress on the masterlink area than you will ever experience with the 250. |
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December 16th, 2011, 03:36 PM | #8 |
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Cool, thanks Kerry!
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December 16th, 2011, 03:42 PM | #9 |
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I never ground on the master, just used the tool to push the pins out.
Also, the tool press has a grove on it. It only pushes the link down so far, then it hits the pin ends. Theres no way to crush it down too far ?? ^ maybe you used the one for the clip??? |
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December 16th, 2011, 07:42 PM | #10 |
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I'm replacing the chain this winter. I don't have a set of calipers, but I do have a a set of feeler gauges. I was just planning on using my feeler gauges to measure the space for the x-rings, and then flaring the rivets to make the master link the same spacing. Are there any obvious issues with using this method?
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December 17th, 2011, 12:48 AM | #11 | |
ninjette.org sage
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Quote:
But to be honest, feeler gauges would probably get the job done just as easily. |
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December 17th, 2011, 01:04 PM | #12 | |
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Quote:
I think I might go with the clip if I was placing another order, but to be honest, I did want to try the rivet just for the sake of trying it.
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December 17th, 2011, 02:44 PM | #13 | |
IC2(SW)
Name: Kerry
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Quote:
http://www.rkexcelamerica.com/2008/c...structions.pdf ^This is what I have in mind when I made the comment: < RK |
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December 17th, 2011, 06:39 PM | #14 | |
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Quote:
The holes are necessary to press the plates, but that is also what allows them to be over-pressed. I guess if they used a grove like the back plate, instead of the holes, it might work as you stated.
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