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Old January 14th, 2020, 03:55 PM   #1
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14 ninja 300

Having a 14 Ninja 300 with abs had to change out all the locks on the bike and now it will start up and run for 3 seconds and then shut down can you reset the key and it will start again for 3 seconds and shut down what is the cause of this
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Old January 14th, 2020, 04:18 PM   #2
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Cool Ignition problems

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Having a 14 Ninja 300 with abs had to change out all the locks on the bike and now it will start up and run for 3 seconds and then shut down can you reset the key and it will start again for 3 seconds and shut down what is the cause of this
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Old January 15th, 2020, 07:17 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by Cronicboarder View Post
Having a 14 Ninja 300 with abs had to change out all the locks on the bike and now it will start up and run for 3 seconds and then shut down can you reset the key and it will start again for 3 seconds and shut down what is the cause of this
I responded to this on another forum with the thought that it may be the new ignition that didn't have the proper resistor, but the OP stated he has tried an OEM ignition and it didn't change.

He also said the lights and signals went out, but checked connections and didn't find an issue.

My latest suggestion was checking the battery voltage and connections, and trying a different battery. Checking all fuses as well. Sounds like the battery could be shorting internally.

Any other thoughts?
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Old January 15th, 2020, 08:07 AM   #4
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Fact it starts at all and runs for 3-sec. shows it’s mechanically sound. Has compression/air, has correct amount of fuel, and has sufficient spark to set off that mixture. All systems are working.

I believe ‘12 and later Ninja 300 have immobiliser system with matched key and ECU. When starting, ECU checks for matching ID on chip of key. If it doesn’t match, ECU cuts power to fuel pump. There may be enough fuel left in system from initial priming to run for 3-sec and that’s it.

Usually when ignition-switch needs to be replaced, it’s configured by locksmith or dealer to use original key to maintain matching ID with ECU.
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Old January 15th, 2020, 08:48 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
Fact it starts at all and runs for 3-sec. shows it’s mechanically sound. Has compression/air, has correct amount of fuel, and has sufficient spark to set off that mixture. All systems are working.

I believe ‘12 and later Ninja 300 have immobiliser system with matched key and ECU. When starting, ECU checks for matching ID on chip of key. If it doesn’t match, ECU cuts power to fuel pump. There may be enough fuel left in system from initial priming to run for 3-sec and that’s it.

Usually when ignition-switch needs to be replaced, it’s configured by locksmith or dealer to use original key to maintain matching ID with ECU.
Ahhh...

Didn't know that part.

There you go OP.
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Old January 15th, 2020, 02:50 PM   #6
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Thans buddy that makes sense
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Old January 15th, 2020, 05:11 PM   #7
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Person on the other forum said 2014s do not have a transponder in the key.

I have no idea...
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Old January 15th, 2020, 09:02 PM   #8
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It varies by market. NA vs EU vs Asia, etc. Kinda like O2-sensor which came on some versions of 300 and not others. At core of system is ECU made by Denso with Motronic software licenced from Bosch through Fujitsu.

1. Pull every fuse and measure resistance between legs. If I had penny for each time I heard, ”fuse looks Ok” but actually didn’t conduct electricity....

2. Confirm all electrical connectors are fully seated and clicked firmly into place.

At this point, I suggest following tests, roughly in sequence ECU uses:

3. scope crank-trigger waveforms. When starting, ECU blindly injects fuel. Then checks for crank-trigger for RPM signal (along with others) to fine-tune injector duration.

4. Measure resistance of TPS idle-switch signal going into ECU relative to sensor-ground (not chassis ground). There’s different fuel & ignition maps for idle vs. partial-throttle operation (per cylinder). If ECU doesn’t detect closed-throttle/idle properly, it will use improper fuel & ignition values for idle.

5. Measure ouput voltage of TPS position signal going into ECU. This is one of inputs used by ECU to calculate amount of air (load) going into engine. It then injects proper amount of fuel to match. Obviously, if ECU is tricked by improper TPS position signal, it willl inject incorrrect amount of fuel.

6. Measure MAP sensor output signal going into ECU. This is 2nd half of alpha-N -calculations to determine load on engine (amount of air being ingested at this very moment). If MAP-sensor outputs incorrect signal, ECU’s calculation will be off.

7. Voltage at fuel pump

Tricky part is you’ll have only 3-sec to take 3 measurements on each test point:

- signal before starting
- signal while running for 3-sec
- signal after engine stops

what will be helpful are signals that change between when it’s running and when it stops. Some should stay same when running vs. stalled. These various signal changes will help home in on possible problem area.
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