March 20th, 2017, 02:05 PM | #1 |
Guy Who Enjoys Riding
Name: Jim
Location: North Carolina
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Airbox Brackets After Battery Box Separation
I recently separated my battery box from the airbox, using a hacksaw blade in a small handle. I was able to do it without taking the airbox out by temporarily moving the coolant tank and electrics out of the way. For the first time since I got the bike a year and a half ago, I was able to get the rubber boots all the way on the carbs.
The trouble was vibration could cause the boots to wander back off the carbs. Maybe screw type band clamps would prevent that, but with the battery hold down strap in place, it would always be pulling back on the airbox, trying to move it off the carbs. I didn't want to just leave the strap off, since it holds the airbox lid in place, which in turn holds the filter retainer in place. So I made a couple little aluminum brackets that have that have slotted holes at the frame end, and use two sheet metal screws each to connect to the airbox. I shoved the airbox forward and tightened the bolts, and I don't think the airbox will try to wander off the carbs. I'm probably not the only one to do something like this, but I thought I'd post a photo of the brackets in case it might help someone else. I suggest using a small hot nail to make pilot holes for the screws if needed, since drilling might leave debris inside. |
2 out of 2 members found this post helpful. |
March 27th, 2017, 07:21 PM | #2 | |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: Bill
Location: Port Huron, Michigan
Join Date: Mar 2017 Motorcycle(s): 2007 Kawasaki 250 Ninja, 1982 Honda Ascot FT500 Posts: A lot.
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Quote:
If you have to drill into an area where you don't want drill chips left behind coat your drill with grease (wheel bearing?), and the grease should capture the drill shavings. |
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March 27th, 2017, 08:57 PM | #3 |
Guy Who Enjoys Riding
Name: Jim
Location: North Carolina
Join Date: Jul 2016 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250 Posts: A lot.
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It's a well known mod that allows you to remove the battery and its separated section, slide the airbox back, and get much better access to the carburetors when needed. In my case, I've had quite a bit of trouble getting the airbox boots to stay mated with the carb mouths, because it appears things have shrunken and/or warped a little in the 12 or 13 years since my 250 was made, and the separation made it hugely easier to get things to stay together.
I'm old, or at least not so young, and know about the grease on drill thing, but I do appreciate your taking the time to mention it. I've found it works OK sometimes, or at least is better than nothing. I think in the case of this airbox, a hot nail or similar object would be a better idea. It might even leave the plastic a little thicker in the immediate area to give the screw a good bite. |
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March 27th, 2017, 10:58 PM | #4 | |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: Bill
Location: Port Huron, Michigan
Join Date: Mar 2017 Motorcycle(s): 2007 Kawasaki 250 Ninja, 1982 Honda Ascot FT500 Posts: A lot.
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Quote:
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March 28th, 2017, 06:39 AM | #5 |
Guy Who Enjoys Riding
Name: Jim
Location: North Carolina
Join Date: Jul 2016 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250 Posts: A lot.
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I didn't care for the looks of the fairings on pregen 250s when I was thinking of buying one, so I had already planned to take them off while I was shopping. There are different ways to go about it... my goal was to not run the cost up any more than necessary. There are quite a few threads with photos of naked 250s around. Here's one. Mine is the red one.
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=283678 |
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October 7th, 2019, 06:26 AM | #6 |
Guy Who Enjoys Riding
Name: Jim
Location: North Carolina
Join Date: Jul 2016 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250 Posts: A lot.
MOTM - Oct '18, Aug '17, Aug '16
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Here's the photo without Photobucket's blurring service added:
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