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Old October 20th, 2019, 02:29 AM   #1
Skankhunt42
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250r track bike

Hi, I've just acquired a 2009 ninja 250r that is crash damaged. I'm going to turn it into a track bike. I'm going to put good tyres on it, clip ons, rear sets, exhaust (doesn't currently have one, but will need a way to mount it without pillion pegs), fairings/seat, braided lines. All done on a tight budget.

Any tips? Any great buys? Any easy performance mods?

Cheers
John
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Old October 20th, 2019, 10:52 AM   #2
GAU-8
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TL: DR
Buy the SPECIFIC FIT clip-on for the Ninja 250. Woodcraft is one, brand, i think the other is Driven. ( Spend the 160.00 to 200.00 Dollars.)




The long read.

As for hardware, members have had bad luck with generic 37 mm clip ons. ( if mounting them under the triple tree) and some issues mounting them in the stock position.

Under the clamp, the bars, and or cables contact the bodywork, and you no longer have full lock to lock steering. ( and it removes quite a bit of safe turning radius.)

Above the clamp, you have to raise the forks higher, so there is a good bite, for the clip ons. Depending on style, degree of angle, and where the bars are positioned, still going to run into clearance issues.

TWO concerns.

1. The front is agressively lowered, yet, your body position is the same. Some like the stink bug look, some don't. But technically your body position is the the same, as stock. So money spent, to make something work...that puts you in stock position again. ( and minimally at best, changing the steering angle.) It could be twitchy. I don't know, as I haven't done this to my Ninja 250. ( I learned the safety clearance/travel issue the hard way, on another bike.

2. SAFETY What a lot of people don't realize is that when you raise the forks, you are decreasing safe fork travel for emergency braking. I.e. raise the forks 2" and you have REMOVED 2" inches of suspension travel. ( Bottom out big time) You can compensate by changing springs and oil. Again though. Thats a lot of work just to generic fit clip-on ( and money) just to say "i have clip ons!"

Do not by generic clip-ons that say " fit ninja 250/300, cbr, fzr. Gsxr" etc. They are going off of MM size of tube, and have NOT actually test fit them on the NINJA 250. ( even the offset, with raised clip ons.)
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Old October 20th, 2019, 12:07 PM   #3
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Double post.
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Old October 20th, 2019, 10:39 PM   #4
Skankhunt42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GAU-8 View Post
TL: DR
Buy the SPECIFIC FIT clip-on for the Ninja 250. Woodcraft is one, brand, i think the other is Driven. ( Spend the 160.00 to 200.00 Dollars.)




The long read.

As for hardware, members have had bad luck with generic 37 mm clip ons. ( if mounting them under the triple tree) and some issues mounting them in the stock position.

Under the clamp, the bars, and or cables contact the bodywork, and you no longer have full lock to lock steering. ( and it removes quite a bit of safe turning radius.)

Above the clamp, you have to raise the forks higher, so there is a good bite, for the clip ons. Depending on style, degree of angle, and where the bars are positioned, still going to run into clearance issues.

TWO concerns.

1. The front is agressively lowered, yet, your body position is the same. Some like the stink bug look, some don't. But technically your body position is the the same, as stock. So money spent, to make something work...that puts you in stock position again. ( and minimally at best, changing the steering angle.) It could be twitchy. I don't know, as I haven't done this to my Ninja 250. ( I learned the safety clearance/travel issue the hard way, on another bike.

2. SAFETY What a lot of people don't realize is that when you raise the forks, you are decreasing safe fork travel for emergency braking. I.e. raise the forks 2" and you have REMOVED 2" inches of suspension travel. ( Bottom out big time) You can compensate by changing springs and oil. Again though. Thats a lot of work just to generic fit clip-on ( and money) just to say "i have clip ons!"

Do not by generic clip-ons that say " fit ninja 250/300, cbr, fzr. Gsxr" etc. They are going off of MM size of tube, and have NOT actually test fit them on the NINJA 250. ( even the offset, with raised clip ons.)
Excellent tip. I'll follow that advice.
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Old October 21st, 2019, 01:52 AM   #5
DannoXYZ
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Hi John and welcome!

With removal of rear pegs, you can replace with S-shaped piece of bar-stock.



Don’t drop front end off too much. Aside from running out of suspension-travel, you get diminishing-returns after certain amount. Most racers use 21-25mm of fork-tube showing above top triple-clamp as sweet-spot.

No difference between my original Woodcraft clip-ons vs. generic replacements I got off eBay after crash my 1st season. Any interference problems is an adjustment issue. I prefer my handlebars about same level as seat. To avoid bumping into fairings, just cut off upper section where they bolt onto gas-tank.



You can clip something onto lower triple-clamp stopper to limit steering-lock angle to prevent squashed thumbs. I use small binder-clip with captured bolt; others use wheel-weights.

After tyres, you’ll want to work on suspension:

- stiffer springs and thicker-oil with higher level, use RaceTech’s calculator
- gold-valve emulators to get better damping with adjustability
- rear shock, can use GSX-R shocks with some bushings to fit (no hacking/mutilation of frame needed)
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Old October 21st, 2019, 04:48 AM   #6
GAU-8
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Ah..

I forgot he mentioned for race, and not street application. So yes, you could cut off a portion, or leave off some of the black trim.

Thanks for re-clarification. Not sure why but in my head, i was thinking "new rider". It happens.

And Welcome aboard, John!
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Old October 21st, 2019, 03:15 PM   #7
Skankhunt42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
Hi John and welcome!

With removal of rear pegs, you can replace with S-shaped piece of bar-stock.



Donít drop front end off too much. Aside from running out of suspension-travel, you get diminishing-returns after certain amount. Most racers use 21-25mm of fork-tube showing above top triple-clamp as sweet-spot.

No difference between my original Woodcraft clip-ons vs. generic replacements I got off eBay after crash my 1st season. Any interference problems is an adjustment issue. I prefer my handlebars about same level as seat. To avoid bumping into fairings, just cut off upper section where they bolt onto gas-tank.



You can clip something onto lower triple-clamp stopper to limit steering-lock angle to prevent squashed thumbs. I use small binder-clip with captured bolt; others use wheel-weights.

After tyres, youíll want to work on suspension:

- stiffer springs and thicker-oil with higher level, use RaceTechís calculator
- gold-valve emulators to get better damping with adjustability
- rear shock, can use GSX-R shocks with some bushings to fit (no hacking/mutilation of frame needed)

Thanks Guys.

Any recommendations on a fibre glass fairing kit that won't break the bank?

DannoXYZ - When you mentioned the clip ons not hitting the fairings, did you mean to trim the fairing?
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Old October 21st, 2019, 03:40 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skankhunt42 View Post
Thanks Guys.

Any recommendations on a fibre glass fairing kit that won't break the bank?

DannoXYZ - When you mentioned the clip ons not hitting the fairings, did you mean to trim the fairing?
Not sure what's available in your area due to shipping costs. Might look at Japan or OZ market. I've use old crashed bodywork needing minor fibreglass repairs and paint from other racers ~U$100. Or cheap Chinese fairings from fleaBay.


Yes, cut off top 10cm of fairing under handlebars. Compare photo of blue bike above with stock bodywork.
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Old October 21st, 2019, 03:50 PM   #9
Skankhunt42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
Not sure what's available in your area due to shipping costs. Might look at Japan or OZ market. I've use old crashed bodywork needing minor fibreglass repairs and paint from other racers ~U$100. Or cheap Chinese fairings from fleaBay.


Yes, cut off top 10cm of fairing under handlebars. Compare photo of blue bike above with stock bodywork.
The bike looks great. What is the split there on the lower fairing, where it is separate from the upper? Mine doesn't currently have any fairings.
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Old October 21st, 2019, 04:44 PM   #10
DannoXYZ
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For race bodywork, there is typically separate belly-pan. My race org require belly-pan that can hold 4-litres of fluid in case engine blows, or there is burst radiator hose. This is to prevent oiling track and crashing other riders and making clean-up more difficult.

Fibreglass is tougher than factory ABS panels. It can survive multiple crashes whereas OEM panels will break and shatter on 1st impact.

https://www.hotbodiesracing.com/prod...or-form-green/
https://www.ebay.com/itm/HotBodies-F...2/254092449458

https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/...250r-2008-2013

https://www.airtech-streamlining.com.../EX2502008.htm

https://www.absfairings.com/Fibergla...-250-2008-2012

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Unpainted-R...s/323605881403

https://www.perfect-fairings.com/pro...ork-2008-2013/ (Athens, Greece)

https://www.skidmarx.co.uk/bodywork/...l-race-fairing (UK)

http://www.moto-works.jp/bikes/ninja250.html (Japan)

Last futzed with by DannoXYZ; October 21st, 2019 at 07:39 PM.
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Old October 22nd, 2019, 01:25 AM   #11
Skankhunt42
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You guys are awesome. Thanks so much for the help. Plastics will be bought late in the build and this build will be slow but good to see that I have options.
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Old October 22nd, 2019, 04:24 AM   #12
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I have to comment on the tire warmers.

It looks like a ninja with huge balloon wheels. Like it was meant for scouting in rough terrain, or woods. A forest Ninja!
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Old October 22nd, 2019, 12:22 PM   #13
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Hahahah!!!

I sold my Chickenhawk tyre warmers after 1st season. Didn't need them with soft Alpha-13SP tyres. Used Q3+ this season and didn't need warmers either. With all waiting around for earlier race waves to go off and waiting for green flag to drop, tyres lose all heat from warmers anyway. I just make sure to do as many full-throttle and full-braking efforts as possible on warm-up lap.

For practice track-days, I just take 1st lap at 75-80%, then 2nd lap at 95% and they're good to go.

None of my coaches or track-day instructors had warmers either, and they all used slicks.
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Old October 22nd, 2019, 01:10 PM   #14
Skankhunt42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GAU-8 View Post
I have to comment on the tire warmers.

It looks like a ninja with huge balloon wheels. Like it was meant for scouting in rough terrain, or woods. A forest Ninja!
A new mars Rover perhaps?
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Old October 23rd, 2019, 12:35 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skankhunt42 View Post
You guys are awesome. Thanks so much for the help. Plastics will be bought late in the build and this build will be slow but good to see that I have options.
FYI- Hotbodies usually does an end of year clearance sale with 2 for 1 fairing sets.
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Old October 25th, 2019, 12:30 AM   #16
Skankhunt42
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I need to get a pipe for the bike and I was thinking of getting one of those knock off aliexpress akrapovic cans. The pipe has a 35mm OD. Do I need to purchase a connecting mid pipe to make it fit?
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Old October 25th, 2019, 01:28 AM   #17
Skankhunt42
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Another thing. What kind of stiffer front springs to I need to get?
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Old October 25th, 2019, 02:34 PM   #18
Skankhunt42
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Another couple of questions. What is the broken off thing hanging at the bottom of the bike and what is the green plug?
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Old October 25th, 2019, 04:31 PM   #19
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Thing hanging off is kickstand switch.
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Old October 25th, 2019, 04:35 PM   #20
Skankhunt42
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Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
Thing hanging off is kickstand switch.
If I just disconnect it, will it disable it or do I need to do something else?
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Old October 25th, 2019, 05:37 PM   #21
DannoXYZ
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Originally Posted by Skankhunt42 View Post
If I just disconnect it, will it disable it or do I need to do something else?
Youíll need to bridge two terminals in harness plug to trick system into thinking kickstand is up.
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