List of mods so far

[mania]

Originally Posted by shadewalker

shouldnt take too long. maybe a week to 10 days and i should have that too. i just hope old3 can get me the drawings for the bracket

Shadewalker I see you live next door in India
Why not just get a caliper bracket from Thailand
like these I posted?
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showp...6&postcount=38

Even Indonesia imports them from here
If you need help give me a holler & maybe I can help you get them if need be.

[mania]

Originally Posted by shadewalker

hahaha. i meant bland for me :P i guess im not a big fan of DS bikes.

and i rode the 390. its available for 3200 usd and the 300 is for 6400 usd on road pricing

$3200 USD That is the India price we heard here in Thailand too.
A couple guys here bought them & had them transported to Cambodia then they are bringing them in on a Temp registration

The reason is the KTM dealer in Thailand charges $10,300 USD claiming it is due to taxes but I think it is due to a high markup

[shadewalker]

Originally Posted by mania

Shadewalker I see you live next door in India
Why not just get a caliper bracket from Thailand
like these I posted?
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showp...6&postcount=38

Even Indonesia imports them from here
If you need help give me a holler & maybe I can help you get them if need be.

Thanks, that would be great. I sent them a message on Facebook yesterday asking them if they ship to India and they said yes. Now I have asked them how much the radial caliper is for. If it's decent then ill order that caliper and give the tokico caliper to A friend. If I'm unable to get much info directory I'll definitely look you up.

[mania]

Originally Posted by shadewalker

Thanks, that would be great. I sent them a message on Facebook yesterday asking them if they ship to India and they said yes. Now I have asked them how much the radial caliper is for. If it's decent then ill order that caliper and give the tokico caliper to A friend. If I'm unable to get much info directory I'll definitely look you up.

Cool...yes they are a bit busy now as they just finished Bike Week at Bangsaeng
That radial front mount runs about $55-60
Or did you mean the actual Brembo Caliper? That is of course pricey at about $260

[shadewalker]

Originally Posted by mania

Cool...yes they are a bit busy now as they just finished Bike Week at Bangsaeng
That radial front mount runs about $55-60
Or did you mean the actual Brembo Caliper? That is of course pricey at about $260

Nope just the bracket. The brake caliper I'll get here locally. I can get a tokico or a Nissin for less than 100 dollars.. And 60 bucks is Damn reasonable for the bracket.. Shipping shouldn't be much since I presume it's gonna be a light part.. Ill see if Svracing also comes up with a bracket soon. Then ill make my decision.

Btw we also had a huge event in Goa called India bike week.. Awesome stuff.. I couldn't go this year but next year I'm. Riding there.

[shadewalker]

Originally Posted by mania

$3200 USD That is the India price we heard here in Thailand too.
A couple guys here bought them & had them transported to Cambodia then they are bringing them in on a Temp registration

The reason is the KTM dealer in Thailand charges $10,300 USD claiming it is due to taxes but I think it is due to a high markup

10000 freaking dollars for the 390?are u kidding me? How much does a liter cost? To us a liter bike comes for little over 24k

[mania]

Originally Posted by shadewalker

10000 freaking dollars for the 390?are u kidding me? How much does a liter cost? To us a liter bike comes for little over 24k

hahah I know insane eh?

Liter bikes just depends but mostly overpriced
A Kawasaki cheapest at z1000 is $16,700 USD This is not the ZX type but just Z
Ducati Panigale Oh my the cheapest is $42,500 USD
KTM RC8 $40,000
Yamaha R1 is $24,300

Honda 1000RRs came way down due to trade agreement I think now
right around 20k

Quite a shock since I am originally from the US where bikes are much cheaper

[shadewalker]

Originally Posted by mania

hahah I know insane eh?

Liter bikes just depends but mostly overpriced
A Kawasaki cheapest at z1000 is $16,700 USD This is not the ZX type but just Z
Ducati Panigale Oh my the cheapest is $42,500 USD
KTM RC8 $40,000
Yamaha R1 is $24,300

Honda 1000RRs came way down due to trade agreement I think now
right around 20k

Quite a shock since I am originally from the US where bikes are much cheaper

Wow.. Insane.. Although panigale and r1 sound about the same..

[shadewalker]

It's here... Super excited.

[shadewalker]

Awesome news.. So I got the quote from.. Rsv for a total of 2600 bhat Including shipping which is close to 60 dollars.. Which is epic. I think ill definitely go for this.. Ill visit the salvage guy once the bracket arrives and look for a god caliper to go with it.. If I'm. Lucky I might get a Brembo for cheap :-D

[mania]

Originally Posted by shadewalker

Awesome news.. So I got the quote from.. Rsv for a total of 2600 bhat Including shipping which is close to 60 dollars.. Which is epic. I think ill definitely go for this.. Ill visit the salvage guy once the bracket arrives and look for a god caliper to go with it.. If I'm. Lucky I might get a Brembo for cheap :-D

Congrats & yes that is a good deal

I thought it would be good for you because India is so close.

[shadewalker]

my bike officially been Bazzazzed by me ! yay yay yay.


ill go take a ride and check it asap :P

[Xtina]

Originally Posted by shadewalker

First of all i wanna thank old3, cuong-nutz and Rexbo. their info made this a hell of a lot easier for me.

it feels tremendous but i will have to play around with the damping and compression to get a final feel.

i had to cut a little area in the undertail to make the reservoir fit keeping the airbox untouched.

finally pics of the how to

[Xtina]

Originally Posted by shadewalker

What do you guys think?

Sweet baby jesus. step away from the windscreen.

[Xtina]

Originally Posted by shadewalker

It's here... Super excited.

Does the traction control actually work for this bike??

[old3]

Originally Posted by Xtina

Does the traction control actually work for this bike??

I thought it already had it via the net HP!

[shadewalker]

Originally Posted by Xtina

Sweet baby jesus. step away from the windscreen.

Sorry too. Late.. :-(

Originally Posted by Xtina

Does the traction control actually work for this bike??

Yes yes ir does.

Originally Posted by old3

I thought it already had it via the net HP!

Can't u lose traction irrespective of bhp if you have slippery unsavoury roads. Also add water to that equation and it's a nightmare.

So I went out last night to take a test ride and my initial Impressions surprised me. It actually managed to save my ass twice when I tried to push it a little harder on one such turn.. It's obviously difficult to justify buying this unit just for traction control for this bike but for the price it's more or less and added bonus. Including the quick shifter it costs less than the Dynojet pcv. Although I do see real life advantages to the tc at least for where I live.

[shadewalker]

Any updates regarding the caliper adapter by sv? I decided to go for the tokico caliper only because I've been reading online and there is a high chance of flexing if you use an adapter to. Mount a radial caliper. I can't take chances with that.

[Somchai]

@shadewalker, this is what you need for your Woodcrafts to change the angle of the clip ons http://www.aftermarketcycles.com/nin...acer-kit.html#
and with this http://japan.webike.net/products/19841668.html you're able to limit the steering angle.

[old3]

Originally Posted by shadewalker

Any updates regarding the caliper adapter by sv? I decided to go for the tokico caliper only because I've been reading online and there is a high chance of flexing if you use an adapter to. Mount a radial caliper. I can't take chances with that.

Not yet buddy, as of yesterday my bracket hadn't been delivered to him yet. It will probably be awhile for him to prototype and test it, then get it into production. They won't be ready in a week or two.

I'll let you know anything I know.

[Xtina]

Originally Posted by old3

Not yet buddy, as of yesterday my bracket hadn't been delivered to him yet. It will probably be awhile for him to prototype and test it, then get it into production. They won't be ready in a week or two.

I'll let you know anything I know.

How much are these brackets? I have a gixxer caliper and master hanging around that that I could use.

[old3]

Originally Posted by Xtina

How much are these brackets? I have a gixxer caliper and master hanging around that that I could use.

Hey Xtina,

No price or date for delivery yet. Blair should have gotten mine late yesterday according to my tracking info. I'm sure he will be doing his best to make a smart looking and strong part. I'd guess it might be 2 months out at least?

***I'm guessing*** but he told me he needed some time to R&D, set up, cut and then anodize afterwards, all while running his business so it won't be done and ready for delivery in the next few days.

As soon as I know something I'll post up a new thread about it.

I'd think you might need a master with a smaller piston than the GSXR one that pushed 2 four pots. (8 pistons total). Try it for sure but I'd expect the same results I had on my 04 KTM 950Adv that I converted to single disc, wooden lever feel. It was totally detached feeling from the caliper. Classic mismatch with oversized master cylinder piston.

Hopefully I get my parts back soon to try the Ninja 650 5/8" master and I can give some opinion of how balanced it is.

[Xtina]

Originally Posted by old3

Hey Xtina,

No price or date for delivery yet. Blair should have gotten mine late yesterday according to my tracking info. I'm sure he will be doing his best to make a smart looking and strong part. I'd guess it might be 2 months out at least?

***I'm guessing*** but he told me he needed some time to R&D, set up, cut and then anodize afterwards, all while running his business so it won't be done and ready for delivery in the next few days.

As soon as I know something I'll post up a new thread about it.

I'd think you might need a master with a smaller piston than the GSXR one that pushed 2 four pots. (8 pistons total). Try it for sure but I'd expect the same results I had on my 04 KTM 950Adv that I converted to single disc, wooden lever feel. It was totally detached feeling from the caliper. Classic mismatch with oversized master cylinder piston.

Hopefully I get my parts back soon to try the Ninja 650 5/8" master and I can give some opinion of how balanced it is.

Regarding the master issue, that's what I was thinking. it's only displacing half the amount of fluid. But would the gix caliper with stock 300 master work better than the full stock 300 stuff?

[shadewalker]

Originally Posted by Somchai

@shadewalker, this is what you need for your Woodcrafts to change the angle of the clip ons http://www.aftermarketcycles.com/nin...acer-kit.html#
and with this http://japan.webike.net/products/19841668.html you're able to limit the steering angle.

I only wish u had message me before i dremeled my visor.. As of now everything is clear and there are no clearance issues. I filed and sandpapered the edges from. 100 to a 1000 grit.. So it barely looks like someone cut it. Thanks though

Originally Posted by old3

Not yet buddy, as of yesterday my bracket hadn't been delivered to him yet. It will probably be awhile for him to prototype and test it, then get it into production. They won't be ready in a week or two.

I'll let you know anything I know.

Sounds good.. My caliper has been delivered to my cousin. So ill. Probably get it by 30th.

[old3]

Originally Posted by Xtina

Regarding the master issue, that's what I was thinking. it's only displacing half the amount of fluid. But would the gix caliper with stock 300 master work better than the full stock 300 stuff?

Yes, IMO it did. With the 4p cal I was really enjoying the extra power and feel. With the stock master and the 6 piston I was doing full blown vertical stoppies with 2 fingers after the new pads bedded in. This combo feels like it could bend the forks.

I've been saying the stock master is too big for the 2 piston caliper since day one. The 4 pot really worked great with it. Good feel and power. The 6 piston I have now was still good, and I didn't realize that until I bedded the pads (duh!). I just think it can get even better with a slightly bigger master.

Hopefully I can try it soon. Just sitting there bled with the 6p cal on the rotor it feels great. I'll test the 4pot with it when I get it all back too.

[shadewalker]

Originally Posted by Xtina

Regarding the master issue, that's what I was thinking. it's only displacing half the amount of fluid. But would the gix caliper with stock 300 master work better than the full stock 300 stuff?

As of now I think Jim is very happy with the stock master and gix caliper. I'm waiting for my caliper and bracket and then I'll. Know if a Nissin master from a 636 is good for a 4 pot caliper.

[JohnnyBravo]

It's snowing here... Glad you having good weather!

[shadewalker]

Guys I've done the bearing swap. Got it done at the showroom but it feels horrible..when the bike is jacked up the steering is tight.. But when it's on the ground and u apply the brakes there is definite free play.. What am I doing wrong?

[old3]

Steering bearings? Hmmm. Jacked up you can pretty roughly shake the forks forward & back and zero play? When you feel it on the ground with the brake, get a finger in there by the race to feel if that is the loose point.

If it is, tension isn't set correctly.

Were you sure the races were driven all the way till they seated?

After a few thousand miles I have had to adjust mine a bit as they got looser. I'd never seen that before, but the triples on this bike and the single ring adjuster with no lock nut are crapola IMO.

If not loose at the race, start looking at the brake caliper, brake pads, axle. There isn't much there to do wrong on assembly.

[shadewalker]

Originally Posted by old3

Steering bearings? Hmmm. Jacked up you can pretty roughly shake the forks forward & back and zero play? When you feel it on the ground with the brake, get a finger in there by the race to feel if that is the loose point.

If it is, tension isn't set correctly.

Were you sure the races were driven all the way till they seated?

After a few thousand miles I have had to adjust mine a bit as they got looser. I'd never seen that before, but the triples on this bike and the single ring adjuster with no lock nut are crapola IMO.

If not loose at the race, start looking at the brake caliper, brake pads, axle. There isn't much there to do wrong on assembly.

ok so when its jacked up there is a ton of movement even when the steering feels tight. when i apply the brake i feel the stem moving. the races are definitely in all the way. ill go to the workshop to make sure im not making a mistake somwhere. is the top race supposed to feel like a part of the stem without even a fingernail worth of a gap or is that normal?

[old3]

Well, sounds like the bearing is still too loose. You'll need to loosen the triple clamps to get it correct cause the hold the clamps at the height they are at now too. Just remove the top clamp.

I set mine much like a wheel bearing. There is a certain amount of feel involved. I tighten the stem nut under the top clamp while turning the clamps back and forth till I feel the bearing start to drag from too much preload, then I back it off slightly till it is free. You want to be closer to the free side of that range.

Ideally the steering should fall to either side with the slightest pressure when fully assembled, but not be loose. There should be some slight drag on it at he bare clamps, but the weight of the wheel, forks, bars etc. should overcome that.

Ever set a trailer wheel bearing preload? When you tighten the lower nut down, you don't want to crush the bearing, just feel that it got tight while turning, then back it off 1/8 of a turn or about there. Again, there is a "feel" to getting it right. After you set the tension, reset the fork tubes and replace the top clamp. That bolt above the top clamp and the fork pinch bolts are what keep the lower nut from backing off. A second locking ring nut would have been better.

Are you sure you placed the seals in the correct order?

[shadewalker]

Originally Posted by old3

Well, sounds like the bearing is still too loose. You'll need to loosen the triple clamps to get it correct cause the hold the clamps at the height they are at now too. Just remove the top clamp.

I set mine much like a wheel bearing. There is a certain amount of feel involved. I tighten the stem nut under the top clamp while turning the clamps back and forth till I feel the bearing start to drag from too much preload, then I back it off slightly till it is free. You want to be closer to the free side of that range.

Ideally the steering should fall to either side with the slightest pressure when fully assembled, but not be loose. There should be some slight drag on it at he bare clamps, but the weight of the wheel, forks, bars etc. should overcome that.

Ever set a trailer wheel bearing preload? When you tighten the lower nut down, you don't want to crush the bearing, just feel that it got tight while turning, then back it off 1/8 of a turn or about there. Again, there is a "feel" to getting it right. After you set the tension, reset the fork tubes and replace the top clamp. That bolt above the top clamp and the fork pinch bolts are what keep the lower nut from backing off. A second locking ring nut would have been better.

Are you sure you placed the seals in the correct order?

i did everything u mentioned. and the bottom seal went before the bearing on the shaft and the top one after the bearing goes in under the stock cover. ill go tomorrow and just get the races checked. like i said there was half a fingernail worth of gap just under the top race. is it supposed to be flush? could that be an issue? coz when i loosen the top nut to let the hangle fall freely on either side the fork moves back and forth like crazy when i check for play. and when i tighten it to remove play the steering becomes tight..
:S

[old3]

I can't recall to be honest, and I just had it all apart last week eyeballing my fork swap options. Sorry buddy.

Are you talking about the top clamp stem bolt or the special nut under the clamp on the stem in your comments? I think you are going to have to pull the forks out and set the preload again, and be sure the seals are not bound up in the bearings.

[shadewalker]

Originally Posted by old3

I can't recall to be honest, and I just had it all apart last week eyeballing my fork swap options. Sorry buddy.

Are you talking about the top clamp stem bolt or the special nut under the clamp on the stem in your comments? I think you are going to have to pull the forks out and set the preload again, and be sure the seals are not bound up in the bearings.

seals are definitely not bound up. and i mean the special nut with the 4 notches in it. i think i'll take it apart and try it again

[old3]

IIRC a few managed to put the wrong bearings top and bottom.

[shadewalker]

Originally Posted by old3

IIRC a few managed to put the wrong bearings top and bottom.

Small on top other on bottom?

[old3]

Can remember buddy. Sorry. I think there is a steering bearing thread somewhere, maybe ask there?

[shadewalker]

I checked those threads and I followed both yours and cruizins steps.. I feel that the top race isn't in completely.. Ill take off the top clamp and have a look

[shadewalker]

ok quick question. when we put everything back together do we put the stock dust caop which is on the top back too?

[shadewalker]

I've still not been able to fix this issue. :'( I finally gave up and ordered a new set of bearings.. Hoping there is was minor fault with them. I've been unable to ride my bike since then.. I miss it.. :-(