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Old November 10th, 2020, 11:44 AM   #1
mieze245
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2007 Rebuild questions.

Good day Ladies, Gentlemen, and Squids of all ages,

First time rider here and I picked up the 07 pregen with blown motor very affordably. Riding season is drawing to a close, so a winter project to keep me sane is at hand.

I have take the motor out and have a couple of questions.

I am 5'10" 235 without gear (don't laugh you'll catch up too ) I am curious about what affordable rear shock options are available to me? I have read here:
https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Category:Suspension. I also understand a gsxr 650 could be an option if I am willing to do a bit of work.
I am not looking to track the bike yet however, Atlanta Motorsports Park is right up the road. I want something for a heavier rider who will aim to eventually carve some twisties.

For the front suspension I have looked in the following link. https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Instal...rs_and_springs
Looking to hear from anyone who have went with new springs and emulators and maybe some settings that worked for them that I could try as well.

I have not heard of any caliper upgrades, but I am interested to hear if Galfer brake lines are worth the price.

Finally, I will putting in another engine. I am open in this regard. I am curious to know about carbureting the 08-12 engines. I have not found a lot of material on this. I have seen pages using a 300's and the carbs used on them. It's really about whatever I can get reasonably.

Any elaboration and experiences from the subjects post will greatly appreciated.

Cheers,

J
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Old November 10th, 2020, 12:53 PM   #2
Triple Jim
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I got a pair of Sonic springs as described in that Wiki, and put them in my '05 fork. I also installed a newgen rear shock I got cheaply from eBay. The combination works very well for me, probably 180 lbs with gear. It never bottoms out and is way stiffer than the stock setup, but no one of your weight has tried my 250 so far. I do know that I can grab the front brake hard enough to do a stoppie without it bottoming out though.
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Old November 10th, 2020, 02:17 PM   #3
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Just curious - what happened to the engine, and do you know absolutely it's junk?
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Old November 10th, 2020, 02:55 PM   #4
mieze245
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkv45 View Post
Just curious - what happened to the engine, and do you know absolutely it's junk?

Well Sir,
As of right now I do not. It barely idles and has a low end knock that sometimes disappears upon first start up, but then comes back. I will confirm its a paper weight this weekend. Compression test. 125 lbs. psi left cylinder. 185 lbs. right cylinder.
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Old November 10th, 2020, 03:18 PM   #5
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Hi Jack, welcome to Ninjette!!!

Easiest rear-shock option is to pick up 1st-gen or 500ex rear shock and replace spring.
They both are direct bolt-ons with removable adjustable spring-collars. See my shock comparison thread.

Also get shock-linkage knuckle from new-gen, the leverage-ratio was changed to move shock more for same wheel-travel amount, giving it more leverage.

As mentioned, Sonic springs for fork, or KZ1100 springs as someone else has tried.
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Old November 10th, 2020, 03:19 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mieze245 View Post
Well Sir,
As of right now I do not. It barely idles and has a low end knock that sometimes disappears upon first start up, but then comes back. I will confirm its a paper weight this weekend. Compression test. 125 lbs. psi left cylinder. 185 lbs. right cylinder.
Measure valve-clearances while you're there. I got pre-gen for free that was in this condition and all it needed was valve-adjustment and tune-up.

Right-cylinder is on high-side, which may be sign of carbon build-up from running too-rich mixtures (inspect carbs). Carbon build-up can bind rings in their lands. Thus might be cause of low-compression on left. Try piston-soak both for 24-hrs with PB-Blaster + acetone. Blow out by cranking without plugs and re-test compression.

These engines are fairly simple and bullet-proof. Even with neglect and lack of maintenance, they rarely self-destruct.
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Old November 10th, 2020, 07:35 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mieze245 View Post
Well Sir,
As of right now I do not. It barely idles and has a low end knock that sometimes disappears upon first start up, but then comes back. I will confirm its a paper weight this weekend. Compression test. 125 lbs. psi left cylinder. 185 lbs. right cylinder.
As Danno noted, do some investigation before calling it junk.

They can make some odd knocking noises on start-up. Drain the oil and look for any metal flakes. Change the oil and filter.

Look at the plugs.

It may not be as bad as you think.
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Old November 10th, 2020, 08:41 PM   #8
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A couple of things from my own experience with the issues you notice.

1. Knocking turned out to be a bad clutch basket. These use rubber bushings in the basket and rubber just plain gets "tired" and hardens after 13 years. Many of the rubber pieces/components that I replaced on my 2007 were way harder than the new ones.
2. I had low compression in the right cylinder. it was showing 120psi vs 195 in the left. It turned out to be a small notch in the spark plug area luckily not on the face surface of the plug. That notch was not letting the oring to seal and it was leaking there. Lubricating the oring with heavy antiseize was enough to plug that hole. 205 psi was measured afterwards.

Just to confirm - you do open the throttle when you test and you did try to squirt some oil into the cylinder to confirm the rings are a/non issue ?

Like Danno said check the clearance of the valves first.

Last futzed with by SibSerge; November 11th, 2020 at 05:42 AM.
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Old November 10th, 2020, 09:31 PM   #9
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Sergey has good point, lots of knocking sounds from rubber-damped clutch with age. Sounds A LOT like rod-knock on worn-out engines. See this thread for more info about clutch and upgrading it to new-gen clutch.

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=259395
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Old November 30th, 2020, 11:07 AM   #10
mieze245
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Is a rather robust little engine. I feel it would be better to replace with a running engine then rebuild the existing engine due to cost. Will a 08-12 fit without issue? I have found one with low miles and a good price. Has anyone had any experience with this? Namely are the three engine mounts the same size and will the first gen carb boots fit with issue?

Thank you,

J
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Old November 30th, 2020, 11:11 AM   #11
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Did you confirm that it's damaged?

Flakes in the oil will tell you if the bottom-end bearings have been toasted.

Pulling the cover and looking at the condition of the cams will tell you if the top-end has been starved of oil.
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Old November 30th, 2020, 11:30 AM   #12
mieze245
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Bike

It is indeed toast. Which is ok. I would like to know if the 08-12 will fit. The price is right and I'm sure it will not stay long.
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Old November 30th, 2020, 12:00 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mieze245 View Post
It is indeed toast. Which is ok. I would like to know if the 08-12 will fit. The price is right and I'm sure it will not stay long.
I believe it will, but maybe someone can say for sure.

You may be able to find an answer with a detailed search.
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Old November 30th, 2020, 12:24 PM   #14
mieze245
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I have seen pages for the 300 into the 250 frame. I did find a post on reddit that says it will work. If its from reddit it must be 100% true. Valve covers are different. Chain tension-er location is different.
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Old November 30th, 2020, 12:32 PM   #15
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It can be done, new-gen engine in pre-gen frame, but upper engine-mounting is different. Will need:

- upper engine-mounts from new-gen
- adapter-brackets of some sort for radiator since it mounts to engine-mount
- new-gen upper radiator tube
- new-gen rubber-manifolds between carb & head
- re-jet carbs with new-gen jet sizes
- new-gen exhaust and make mid-pipe bracket to attach to frame
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Old November 30th, 2020, 12:56 PM   #16
mieze245
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Thank you Sir you are a life saver!
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Old May 10th, 2021, 01:14 PM   #17
mieze245
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So this has turned into a build which is fun.
Engine check.
sonic springs and gold valve emulators check.

What options do I have for 17" wheels?
How much hassle is it to go to 17" wheels?

On a side note I can pick up a 300 frame with no engine will any parts fit?
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