Slowly increasing front brake pressure

smcbride11 · March 11th, 2010, 01:17 PM

I rode to work today, and on the way home noticed that it was taking progressively less pull to get the brakes to apply, and when I got off to walk her into my garage the front brake was actually dragging enough that I could feel the resistance...

Has anyone had anything like this happen or have any ideas? I'm thinking my brake lever may be slightly overtightened, so I'm going to back it out and re-torque to factory specs, but other than that...

I've got an '09 (purchased in Sept '08). I've got the stock brake lines and original fluid in it; there's no visible bulging or anything in the brake line.

Thanks!

Steve

Alex · March 13th, 2010, 12:12 PM

Overfilled brake fluid could cause this, as it heats up it expands slightly, and if the piston is already rubbing against the disk, it heats up a bit more. I wouldn't think the lever itself could cause this.

smcbride11 · April 5th, 2010, 09:12 PM

I was finally able to get out and go for a few rides to figure out what the source of the problem is... it's definitely the aftermarket brake lever. It looks like it's pressing the little diaphragm in the master cylinder in a good few millimeters, where the stock one makes contact but doesn't actually supply pressure. I'm guessing that once everything gets up to temperature (and pressure), that bit of brake pressure is enough to keep the piston frozen.

Happened to me again today - a hard freeze on the front tire... I had to pick up the front of the bike and walk it a good 15'. Man, what that a workout. Then, I simply took the brake lever bolt out and put it back in very loosely and bam, everything was back to normal.

Pretty odd, I'd say, but at least I've gotten to the cause of it without any physical harm. I'm back to the stock brake lever now.

kkim · April 5th, 2010, 09:29 PM

yes, if the master cylinder is not allowed to return to an "open" position, it cannot draw/return fluid into the brake system or back into the master cylinder. Essentially you end up with a closed system and when the heat from the caliper starts heating up the fluid, the pressure within the closed system pushes the caliper piston out against the brake pad.

short story, you need at least some play at the lever end where it meets the master cylinder.

Banzai · April 6th, 2010, 07:20 AM

What aftermarket lever do you have?

smcbride11 · April 6th, 2010, 07:58 PM

Cycle Control.

I still have the adjustable clutch on (which was really my big reason for going for them anyway, I didn't like the pull of the stock lever), but the brake lever's going to need some looking into. It's got a few adjustments that look like an allen wrench might take care of, otherwise I'll have to try to see if I can get in touch with them and either figure out the next step or write it off and try the Pazzos.

kkim · April 6th, 2010, 08:02 PM

could you post pictures of the lever and the adjustment portion?

March 11th, 2010, 01:17 PM	#1
smcbride11 ninjette.org member Name: Steve Location: Providence, RI Join Date: Feb 2009 Motorcycle(s): '95 BMW K75 Posts: 188	Slowly increasing front brake pressure I rode to work today, and on the way home noticed that it was taking progressively less pull to get the brakes to apply, and when I got off to walk her into my garage the front brake was actually dragging enough that I could feel the resistance... Has anyone had anything like this happen or have any ideas? I'm thinking my brake lever may be slightly overtightened, so I'm going to back it out and re-torque to factory specs, but other than that... I've got an '09 (purchased in Sept '08). I've got the stock brake lines and original fluid in it; there's no visible bulging or anything in the brake line. Thanks! Steve

March 13th, 2010, 12:12 PM	#2
Alex ninjette.org dude Name: 1 guess :-) Location: SF Bay Area Join Date: Jun 2008 Motorcycle(s): '13 Ninja 300 (white, the fastest color!), '13 R1200RT, '14 CRF250L, '12 TT-R125LE Posts: Too much. Blog Entries: 7	Overfilled brake fluid could cause this, as it heats up it expands slightly, and if the piston is already rubbing against the disk, it heats up a bit more. I wouldn't think the lever itself could cause this. __________________________________________________ Montgomery Street Motorcycle Club / cal24.com / crf250l.org / ninjette.org ninjette.org Terms of Service Shopping for motorcycle parts or equipment? Come here first. The friendliest Ninja 250R/300/400 forum on the internet! (especially Unregistered)

April 6th, 2010, 07:20 AM	#5
Banzai Psychic war veteran Name: Thomas Location: Norfolk, VA Join Date: May 2009 Motorcycle(s): Kawi Green '09 Ninja ZX6R Posts: 663	What aftermarket lever do you have? __________________________________________________ * If you're arguing with some idiot over the internet, chances are pretty good he's doing the same thing! Zodiac Mindwarp and the Love Reaction

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April 5th, 2010, 09:12 PM	#3
smcbride11 ninjette.org member Name: Steve Location: Providence, RI Join Date: Feb 2009 Motorcycle(s): '95 BMW K75 Posts: 188	I was finally able to get out and go for a few rides to figure out what the source of the problem is... it's definitely the aftermarket brake lever. It looks like it's pressing the little diaphragm in the master cylinder in a good few millimeters, where the stock one makes contact but doesn't actually supply pressure. I'm guessing that once everything gets up to temperature (and pressure), that bit of brake pressure is enough to keep the piston frozen. Happened to me again today - a hard freeze on the front tire... I had to pick up the front of the bike and walk it a good 15'. Man, what that a workout. Then, I simply took the brake lever bolt out and put it back in very loosely and bam, everything was back to normal. Pretty odd, I'd say, but at least I've gotten to the cause of it without any physical harm. I'm back to the stock brake lever now.

April 5th, 2010, 09:29 PM	#4
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	yes, if the master cylinder is not allowed to return to an "open" position, it cannot draw/return fluid into the brake system or back into the master cylinder. Essentially you end up with a closed system and when the heat from the caliper starts heating up the fluid, the pressure within the closed system pushes the caliper piston out against the brake pad. short story, you need at least some play at the lever end where it meets the master cylinder.

April 6th, 2010, 07:58 PM	#6
smcbride11 ninjette.org member Name: Steve Location: Providence, RI Join Date: Feb 2009 Motorcycle(s): '95 BMW K75 Posts: 188	Cycle Control. I still have the adjustable clutch on (which was really my big reason for going for them anyway, I didn't like the pull of the stock lever), but the brake lever's going to need some looking into. It's got a few adjustments that look like an allen wrench might take care of, otherwise I'll have to try to see if I can get in touch with them and either figure out the next step or write it off and try the Pazzos.

April 6th, 2010, 08:02 PM	#7
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	could you post pictures of the lever and the adjustment portion?