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Old June 28th, 2018, 09:37 AM   #1
MakoMoto
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Loose Chain...Tighten or Replace?

Hello guys!

So I have been riding my 2008 Ninja almost daily this season..had my tires replaced a month ago. Well, my chain is pretty loose. I checked the chain..doesn't have any seized links or anything of that nature that I see. Sprockets are not hooked. Was wondering if I could just tighten the chain up and get back on the road or if once it gets loose I have to replace. The bike has 13k on it...bought it with 9k on it so I am assuming it's the factory chain. What do you guys think? The shop quoted me at $275 JUST FOR LABOR. Do not really have the funds to drop on that at the moment. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks everyone!
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Old June 28th, 2018, 09:49 AM   #2
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If it's just loose with no other bad signs, you should be good to just tighten it. People could give better advice if you post a couple pictures of your chain and sprockets.
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Old June 28th, 2018, 09:49 AM   #3
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No need to replace it if it's in good condition.

Set the tension (ok TJ - "slack") correctly at the tightest spot, and then spin the wheel - noting the change in "slack". If the change is significant, further investigation is needed and a replacement chain may be in-order.

If you put a new chain on worn sprockets you can get accelerated chain wear and some odd noises and vibrations, so you are better to replace the chain and sprockets together.

Chances are you will be fine with an adjustment.

Last futzed with by jkv45; June 29th, 2018 at 07:25 AM.
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Old June 28th, 2018, 09:51 AM   #4
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Chains need to be inspected and adjusted regularly, so you might as well get used to the procedure.

https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Final_Drive
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Old June 28th, 2018, 12:32 PM   #5
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There's a service limit for chain wear. Here's the relevant shot of the page from the maintenance manual on how to check it.

If the chain is in good condition (not corroded, no tight links, etc.) then if it's within these limits it's good. Simply tighten so that you have between 0.8 and 1.2 inches of slack.

If, after measuring the distance between pins as shown, it's out of spec, then replace the chain.

And go buy the maintenance manual. It's worth every penny and then some. But after getting that quote from your mechanic, this should be obvious.
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Old June 28th, 2018, 02:41 PM   #6
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Takes 5-minutes to adjust chain-tension...
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Old June 28th, 2018, 03:30 PM   #7
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ask me and i say replace the chain and sprockets.
i replace mine every season. 20 days at the track.
my son tried to go a season and a half, and lost the chain and ripped a gaping hole in the swing arm , had to replace the swing arm, it was beyond repair.
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Old June 28th, 2018, 03:51 PM   #8
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ask me and i say replace the chain and sprockets.
i replace mine every season. 20 days at the track.
my son tried to go a season and a half, and lost the chain and ripped a gaping hole in the swing arm , had to replace the swing arm, it was beyond repair.
That’s a lot of chains but 20 is a lot of track days. Street only or mainly shouldn’t need replacing that often.
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Old June 28th, 2018, 04:34 PM   #9
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That’s a lot of chains but 20 is a lot of track days. Street only or mainly shouldn’t need replacing that often.
im sorry guys, these are 415 chains.
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Old June 28th, 2018, 08:24 PM   #10
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Thanks everyone! I am going to adjust the tension and see how it works out. Of it doesn't meet spec I will be replacing the sprockets and chain myself. Is there a place online that is recommended to purchase these parts?

Thank you all so very much! This is why I love this forum. I will keep posted!
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Old June 28th, 2018, 09:14 PM   #11
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You're not adjusting the tension, you're adjusting it to get the correct amount of slack.
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Old June 28th, 2018, 09:57 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MakoMoto View Post
Hello guys!

So I have been riding my 2008 Ninja almost daily this season..had my tires replaced a month ago. Well, my chain is pretty loose. I checked the chain..doesn't have any seized links or anything of that nature that I see. Sprockets are not hooked. Was wondering if I could just tighten the chain up and get back on the road or if once it gets loose I have to replace. The bike has 13k on it...bought it with 9k on it so I am assuming it's the factory chain. What do you guys think? The shop quoted me at $275 JUST FOR LABOR. Do not really have the funds to drop on that at the moment. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks everyone!
If your sprocket teeth aren't worn to a point you just need to adjust it. I have gone 2,500 miles with no chain adjustment so far. I lubricate my center rollers and sprocket with WD-40 white lithium grease with a brush every 225 - 235 miles (when I hit reserve). I fully expect to see over 20,000 miles on my bike before I buy a new chain and sprockets. My bike has the original chain on it that it left the factory with.

Bill

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Old June 28th, 2018, 10:21 PM   #13
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Quote:
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You're not adjusting the tension, you're adjusting it to get the correct amount of slack.
My apologies, that is what I intended to say.
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Old June 28th, 2018, 10:37 PM   #14
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Be prepared to learn to realign your rear wheel. It's a HUGE pain in the ass when you first learn it (at least I had a lot of trouble with it) but once you get it down, you become the master and all your friends are willing to buy you beer to work on their bikes
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Old June 28th, 2018, 11:08 PM   #15
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Be prepared to learn to realign your rear wheel. It's a HUGE pain in the ass when you first learn it (at least I had a lot of trouble with it) but once you get it down, you become the master and all your friends are willing to buy you beer to work on their bikes
I made this little tool that works pretty well for rear wheel alignment. I locate one pointer at the backside of the chrome swingarm pivot cap on my pre-gen and center the other on the centerline of the rear axle. Works for me.

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Old June 29th, 2018, 06:43 AM   #16
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Hmm...so when adjusting chain slack you must align the rear wheel as well? Is it easy or hard? He said it was a pain...but that "how to" says it's pretty easy on the ninjette...
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Old June 29th, 2018, 07:18 AM   #17
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If the wheel is already aligned, and you carefully adjust the wheel to the rear the same amount on each side, it will still be aligned. I normally bring the adjuster bolts up to where they're starting to move the axle, and count wrench flats as I turn, six per turn, and turn the left and right one the same number of wrench flats.

The link I put in post #4 of this thread has a lot of information about aligning the wheel.
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Old June 29th, 2018, 07:24 AM   #18
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This video covers chain adjustment and wheel alignment -

http://www.canyonchasers.net/video/howto/chain.php
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Old June 29th, 2018, 07:52 AM   #19
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Okie dokie. The URL says it was pretty easy that's why I was confused by the PITA assessment. As far as keeping track of turns, can I draw a marker on the bolt to keep track of how many turns on the adjuster bolt? Would that be a good idea? I just want to make sure I don't have to do alignment if I don't need to at the moment.
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Old June 29th, 2018, 08:18 AM   #20
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Use any method you like to assure that you move the axle the same amount on each side.
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Old June 29th, 2018, 09:37 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by MakoMoto View Post
Okie dokie. The URL says it was pretty easy that's why I was confused by the PITA assessment. As far as keeping track of turns, can I draw a marker on the bolt to keep track of how many turns on the adjuster bolt? Would that be a good idea? I just want to make sure I don't have to do alignment if I don't need to at the moment.
After making absolutely sure the wheel is in alignment, I have put punch marks on my adjusters (nut or bolt) in the same position (12-o-clock or whatever).

That way when I make an adjustment I can easily duplicate the exact same amount on both sides without the need to always recheck alignment.
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Old June 30th, 2018, 07:42 AM   #22
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Alright guys and gals...

So I adjusted the chain a few minutes ago. There is uneven tension in the chain. There is one spot that is tighter than the rest. I adjusted to spec (1 inch.went between the .8-1.2) according to the tightest spot. This leaves the rest with more slack. I have decided that I will go ahead and replace the chain and sprockets. However, I am wondering If this is okay to ride on for the next week or so? Thoughts? I just do street riding...no track. Thanks everyone!
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Old June 30th, 2018, 08:01 AM   #23
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Have you lubed it recently? Sometimes tight spots are tight because the links are binding from lack of lubrication.

The only safe thing for us to tell you is don't ride it until it's replaced, but that doesn't mean I wouldn't lube mine and ride a few days if it's not overly chewed up.
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Old June 30th, 2018, 08:24 AM   #24
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Yes. I just cleaned the chain about 400 miles or so ago with Maxima Clean Up and then used Dupont Chainsaver chain wax after that.

Is it decently easy to replace chain myself? Last summer I removed the carbs and all that (had Ducatiman do his magic) and put the carbs back in. That was alot to disassemble and such and I managed. Is this job easier or more difficult?

JT Sprockets offers a Chain/Sprockets combo. Are they decent quality?
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Old June 30th, 2018, 08:35 AM   #25
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I was also considering buying the sprockets from JT Sprockets and then buying a DID X Ring chain. What do you think?

Also, is the 15T front sprocket mod really that great? If I decide to go that route...would a 42 rear be best to pair with?
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Old June 30th, 2018, 08:37 AM   #26
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Yes. I just cleaned the chain about 400 miles or so ago with Maxima Clean Up and then used Dupont Chainsaver chain wax after that.

Is it decently easy to replace chain myself? Last summer I removed the carbs and all that (had Ducatiman do his magic) and put the carbs back in. That was alot to disassemble and such and I managed. Is this job easier or more difficult?

JT Sprockets offers a Chain/Sprockets combo. Are they decent quality?
Triple Jim is absolutely correct. You could run the chain for a while after you lubricate it. Don't know about this "chain wax" stuff. I would use regular engne oil over that. I got 18,000 miles on a non "O" ring chain using regular engine oil on my Kaw 500 triple. Replacing the chain and sprockets is the best way to go but, being cheap, I would run it for a while with a slightly loose chain to see if it sorts itself out. If you have the skill to remove and reinstall the carbs the chain and sprockets should be a piece of cake. If you don't have a geniune Kawasaki service manual I would strongly suggest you obtain one.

Keep us posted.

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Old June 30th, 2018, 09:15 AM   #27
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Replacing the chain and sprockets is relatively easy, and that link I posted above should have all the information you need. But if you use a master link and clip like I do, make sure you know what you're doing and get it right. If you use a rivet tool, I guess the same thing applies. A chain that comes apart can be deadly when it locks the rear wheel unexpectedly at the wrong time in traffic.

I like RK X-ring chains for the quality and price. JT sprockets are good.

As far as the sprocket ration you choose, that link I posted above has a lot of information about that, and should help you decide what you want.
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Old June 30th, 2018, 10:00 AM   #28
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400-miles is a bit much. I prefer to lube chain every 200-250 miles on road, every 100-miles on track.

Did you measure actual chain-wear? You may be replacing perfectly fine chain with 1% wear with new perfectly fine chain.

As others mentioned, you may have some tight spots here and there due to stiff links. You can see these as pairs that are slightly angled instead of straight.

Are you applying it to inside surface of chain on lower run?
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Old June 30th, 2018, 11:04 AM   #29
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tight spots also acure because of any off center tolerance of sprocket to hub connection,
hence find the tight spot adj chain. i run my chain looser than the manual recomends, just so the chain almost touches bottom of swingarm near the end of the plastic chain guide.
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Old June 30th, 2018, 11:50 AM   #30
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Here are some pictures of the chain at it's loose point. Sorry about all the dirt, it needs a wash and I live on a dirt road.

Used Dupont Chainsaver Chain wax. How should I check for actual chain wear? The chain has 13k on it...think the wax may have cause stiff links?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20180630_143352.jpg (148.9 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg 20180630_143359.jpg (150.5 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg 20180630_143414.jpg (100.7 KB, 8 views)
File Type: jpg 20180630_143331.jpg (141.5 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg 20180630_144709.jpg (123.9 KB, 5 views)
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Old June 30th, 2018, 11:52 AM   #31
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Thank you all for your knowledge. I'm becoming a better motorcycle owner..trying to learn and fix neglect and rookie mistakes.
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Old June 30th, 2018, 11:53 AM   #32
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The link I posted above (post #4) has a section called "When does the chain need replacement?", which gives a quick and easy way to tell how much the chain has worn.
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Old June 30th, 2018, 11:56 AM   #33
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The 3 things I see on the link...I don't really see "kinked" links just tight spots.(?) As far as the pulling at the back of the rear sprocket I get maybe almost half up the tooth..and the 100 mile adjustment I am unsure of as I just adjusted and found the uneven tension....should I replace all anyways?
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Old June 30th, 2018, 12:22 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by MakoMoto View Post
Here are some pictures of the chain at it's loose point. Sorry about all the dirt, it needs a wash and I live on a dirt road.

Used Dupont Chainsaver Chain wax. How should I check for actual chain wear? The chain has 13k on it...think the wax may have cause stiff links?
Quote:
Originally Posted by MakoMoto View Post
The 3 things I see on the link...I don't really see "kinked" links just tight spots.(?) As far as the pulling at the back of the rear sprocket I get maybe almost half up the tooth..and the 100 mile adjustment I am unsure of as I just adjusted and found the uneven tension....should I replace all anyways?
Nothing wrong with uneven tension, it's there 90% of time due to production tolerances. You adjust slack at tightest rotation point.

Pulling chain away from sprocket is not good test. If you put brand-new chain on old sprocket, guess what? It pulls away quite a bit!!! Is your brand-new chain worn-out? Did those cheating lying creatins' sell you an old chain? No, it's just not good test.

Here's real way to determine your chain-wear, measurements with NUMBERS!!!. Where your numbers as measured on your bike falls within tolerance limits will tell you if your chain is 10%, or 50% or 90% worn. Until you actually measure and come up with some numbers, you'll never know



What is distance between 20-links on your chain?
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Old June 30th, 2018, 01:04 PM   #35
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Looking at it, I'd probably replace it.

If I bought a used bike and the chain looked like that I would plan on replacing it and the sprockets.

I might change the lube you have been using if you feel you've kept on top of it. It shouldn't be that rusted if it's lubed fairy regularly.
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Old June 30th, 2018, 01:20 PM   #36
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Yeah and shiny! Rollers that are shiny are worn rollers!
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Old June 30th, 2018, 01:34 PM   #37
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The link I posted above (post #4) has a section called "When does the chain need replacement?", which gives a quick and easy way to tell how much the chain has worn.
I replace everything when the sprocket teeth wear to a point.

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Old June 30th, 2018, 02:44 PM   #38
DannoXYZ
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Yeah, new chain on worn-sprocket wears out very quickly.
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Old June 30th, 2018, 02:56 PM   #39
Ram Jet
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Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
Yeah, new chain on worn-sprocket wears out very quickly.
I did something one year ago that I always said I would never do. I installed new sprockets on a chain with about 9,700 miles on it. Why, because I hated the 14/45 sprocket ratio. The sprockets appeared to have no wear on them. I said "What the hell". No ill effects as of 2,500 miles. And man, this little Ninja has come alive. The engine runs through the power range like an Alfa Romeo Spyder or an XKE Jaguar. If you like a 1967 Dogde R/T with a 440 and 4:56 rear axle ratio - it ain't for you.

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Old June 30th, 2018, 07:31 PM   #40
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Ordered a RK 520SO 106 chain and some JT Sprockets. Went with the 15/45 as I feel it will be the best fit for me and my riding habits. They will arrive Monday and will be getting to work then! Thank you all! I'll keep it updated and will probably have many questions. Especially trying to get the OEM chain off...
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