clutch switch AGAIN!!!!

[ZeroGravity360]

I am so frustrated right now, I bought a new clutch switch to replace the one that isnt working. I cannot get it to work. I even pulled it apart to see if there was anything wrong with it and there is not! There is jelly type stuff on the metal parts though. Is that supposed to be there? I even tried to put old parts on the new one and new parts on the old one, needless to say i am frustrated! please help

[RacinNinja]

Without an understanding of electricity and the proper tools you will only be more frustrated. Find a friend that has a multimeter and has knowledge of electricity. Wires, plugs and grounds will have to be tested.

[SLOWn60]

Perhaps the problem isn't the clutch switch.
Yes the goo is normal. It's called lube.

[ZeroGravity360]

Originally Posted by SLOWn60

Perhaps the problem isn't the clutch switch.
Yes the goo is normal. It's called lube.

Well i assume it is because when i asked my mechanically inclined friend to help me, he told me that if i put a paper clip in the wire part of the switch and it started in gear and died if i put the kick stand down (which it did) then it was the clutch switch. it only is starting in N but when it has the paper clip in it starts n gear.

[ZeroGravity360]

I also found this to make sure i was doing it right and i am... so IDK :'(

Link to original page on YouTube.

[SLOWn60]

Originally Posted by ZeroGravity360

Well i assume it is because when i asked my mechanically inclined friend to help me, he told me that if i put a paper clip in the wire part of the switch and it started in gear and died if i put the kick stand down (which it did) then it was the clutch switch. it only is starting in N but when it has the paper clip in it starts n gear.

I can't help you with the problem and I haven't read your other thread about your switch problem (if there is one?) but no way I would take apart a new switch that wasn't working or mix up parts. What I would do is test them with an ohm meter to verify the circuits. It may be the connector is the problem if the paper clip trick is working. Better, more knowledgable minds than mine may have more sage advice.
Now that you've taken apart both switches & swapped the guts: you may now have two useless switches or two that work just fine!

[ZeroGravity360]

Originally Posted by SLOWn60

I can't help you with the problem and I haven't read your other thread about your switch problem (if there is one?) but no way I would take apart a new switch that wasn't working or mix up parts. What I would do is test them with an ohm meter to verify the circuits. It may be the connector is the problem if the paper clip trick is working. Better, more knowledgable minds than mine may have more sage advice.
Now that you've taken apart both switches & swapped the guts: you may now have two useless switches or two that work just fine!

lol I know -____-
I shouldnt have done it, however, I tried my best to get it working! its not a complicated peice, 3 parts that snap together. Just frustrating dealing with the issue after buying a new piece...

[CrazyCanuckGoat]

Are you sure your aftermarket levers are pushing the clutch switch pin in and out? I had a brake light issue on mine with Ebay levers and had to do some filing.

[ZeroGravity360]

Originally Posted by CrazyCanuckGoat

Are you sure your aftermarket levers are pushing the clutch switch pin in and out? I had a brake light issue on mine with Ebay levers and had to do some filing.

good catch, I'll have to go outside and check that out!

[InvisiBill]

The contacts in the plug might be bent a bit, and not actually touching the switch's contacts. Depending on the size of the paperclip, that test could even make it worse.

[ZeroGravity360]

Originally Posted by InvisiBill

The contacts in the plug might be bent a bit, and not actually touching the switch's contacts. Depending on the size of the paperclip, that test could even make it worse.

I never thought about that. If that's the case I'll have to bring it in because I don't want to mess with that part of it

[Ghostt]

On a sidenote the goo is dielectric grease, it's used to keep out moisture, and corrosion.

[Alex]

For youtube links, just put the video ID between the youtube tags; not the entire URL. I fixed your post here (hit edit on your video post to see the details).

[MrAtom]

Originally Posted by Ghostt

On a sidenote the goo is dielectric grease, it's used to keep out moisture, and corrosion.

Good stuff for electrical maintinence on your bike/car. In this video hes wrong when he says it conducts electricity, but it still keeps out moisture and prevents corrosion.

Link to original page on YouTube.

[Ghostt]

I redid all the connectors on SERENITY with electric contact cleaner & dielectric grease recently.

I especially use it on the spark plugs and distributor boots, on all my vehicles.

My reason is I hate issues that could have been avoided, especially easily avoidable ones.

[ZeroGravity360]

Link to original page on YouTube.

After hours of searching I this this might be my issue!! I want to share this because other people might have this problem. When I get home from work I'll try it and see I'd this is what is happening

[MrAtom]

@Ghostt especially if you ride in the rain a lot, it's good stuff for sure. But it's not a bad idea to glop some on every connection on your bike just for fun, either.

Interesting. I broke off the little plastic bit that the lever pushes a long time ago and I've never taken the time to fix it. I think I'll take it apart and give it a little epoxy. Considering how easily mine broke off, it isn't meant to take much force in any direction except in, so it should probably last.

[Ghostt]

Originally Posted by MrAtom

@Ghostt especially if you ride in the rain a lot, it's good stuff for sure. But it's not a bad idea to glop some on every connection on your bike just for fun, either.

Interesting. I broke off the little plastic bit that the lever pushes a long time ago and I've never taken the time to fix it. I think I'll take it apart and give it a little epoxy. Considering how easily mine broke off, it isn't meant to take much force in any direction except in, so it should probably last.

I do ride in all weather,and I also park it outside, no cover or garage during the riding season.

I consider this item as a preventive maintenance.

[InvisiBill]

Originally Posted by ZeroGravity360

After hours of searching I this this might be my issue!! I want to share this because other people might have this problem. When I get home from work I'll try it and see I'd this is what is happening

That may very well be 100% user error. At first, he only shows testing it with a 2-finger pull. At the end of the video, he shows that it still doesn't work with a 2-finger pull, only with his fingers out of the way. It doesn't have to be back to the bar, but it has to be back further than allowed with his fingers in the way. The video is ambiguous as to whether or not this way also worked at first. We assume it doesn't, but that isn't actually shown in the video.

Originally Posted by CrazyCanuckGoat

Are you sure your aftermarket levers are pushing the clutch switch pin in and out? I had a brake light issue on mine with Ebay levers and had to do some filing.

It's the same as this suggestion - the lever not allowing for intended movement of the switch pin, for whatever reason.


At least it's easy to test. Just unscrew the switch from the lever to ensure it's allowed to fully extend. If it works that way, but not when installed, then there's most likely a physical interference issue like the video describes.


Keep in mind that shortening the pin like he did is altering the operation of safety equipment. As long as it matches the levers you have, it's not an issue. But if you go back to the stock levers or trim too much, it could allow the bike to start without the clutch fully pulled (which will cause the bike to jump, as it did at one point in the video).

It's probably more ideal function-wise to trim the aftermarket lever (assuming it's different from stock, which it doesn't sound like your stocker worked either) to make it match the stock parts. That ensures you're not mucking things up if you go back to stock, but in this case it's probably a lot more work for little benefit in an unlikely situation. The little plastic post is a lot easier to trim, and you already have a spare if you do go back to stock.

[ZeroGravity360]

Originally Posted by InvisiBill

That may very well be 100% user error. At first, he only shows testing it with a 2-finger pull. At the end of the video, he shows that it still doesn't work with a 2-finger pull, only with his fingers out of the way. It doesn't have to be back to the bar, but it has to be back further than allowed with his fingers in the way. The video is ambiguous as to whether or not this way also worked at first. We assume it doesn't, but that isn't actually shown in the video.




It's the same as this suggestion - the lever not allowing for intended movement of the switch pin, for whatever reason.


At least it's easy to test. Just unscrew the switch from the lever to ensure it's allowed to fully extend. If it works that way, but not when installed, then there's most likely a physical interference issue like the video describes.


Keep in mind that shortening the pin like he did is altering the operation of safety equipment. As long as it matches the levers you have, it's not an issue. But if you go back to the stock levers or trim too much, it could allow the bike to start without the clutch fully pulled (which will cause the bike to jump, as it did at one point in the video).

It's probably more ideal function-wise to trim the aftermarket lever (assuming it's different from stock, which it doesn't sound like your stocker worked either) to make it match the stock parts. That ensures you're not mucking things up if you go back to stock, but in this case it's probably a lot more work for little benefit in an unlikely situation. The little plastic post is a lot easier to trim, and you already have a spare if you do go back to stock.

The previous owner had a screw in the bolt part of the OEM bolt. I ordered a new bolt due to massive wiggle in the clutch, that might be what is going on honestly. Maybe it wasnt my clutch switch and I just wasted $20 lol, oh well. It arrives today so I'll try that first. but you also have to think that my adjustable levers are much closer to the handle bars, which I might need to alter it either way. If I go back to stock, I'll just switch the levers out. Or just be aware of the switch issue. After I get off of work this evening I will try both things and let you guys know the issue.

[ZeroGravity360]

Okay... Huge problem again... I just got my clutch bolt and it's too short for the clutch bolt hole. I compared it to the brake bolt and it's the exact some size. Is this common??

[InvisiBill]

Originally Posted by ZeroGravity360

Okay... Huge problem again... I just got my clutch bolt and it's too short for the clutch bolt hole. I compared it to the brake bolt and it's the exact some size. Is this common??

Which part exactly are you referring to? The main bolt that holds the lever to the perch? The clutch and brake do use different part numbers, so they shouldn't be identical (though I can't say how different they are either).

[InvisiBill]

Originally Posted by ZeroGravity360

Maybe it wasnt my clutch switch and I just wasted $20 lol, oh well. It arrives today so I'll try that first.

When you have a problem, you can test parts, or throw money at it by buying replacement parts. One way is more work initially, the other way can end up costing a lot more and being more work after you've swapped in a dozen new parts with no change.

In this case, you tested the rest of the circuit via the paperclip trick. Since that worked, you assumed the switch was bad, but didn't actually test it to verify. The problem could actually be the connections between the harness and the switch, the interaction between the lever and the switch, etc.

We all make assumptions. We assume Kawasaki used the right plunger length on the switch for it to turn on/off when you move the lever. Ignoring the ambiguity of the video, he showed that might not be the case. We assume the pins in the plug are making contact because that's simply what they're supposed to do (until the new part has the same problem).

I'm not trying to say you're an idiot because you just assumed the switch was bad (most people would consider that a reasonable conclusion based on the test), I'm just trying to point out that there can be other factors we forget about when we're troubleshooting. Even the guy in the video assumed the switch needed cleaning inside at first. You'll save yourself a lot of aggravation if you try to think about every possible little thing that could be causing your problem, even if it's something that shouldn't be a problem (like the stock parts not being the right length to work correctly). Verifying that those "should be" things actually "are" ensures you're not chasing your tail around some stupid little thing.

I suggest buying a multimeter (as cheap as $6 at Harbor Freight) at the next sign of any electrical problem. It'll allow you to test the electrical parts directly. In this case, it would show you if the switch by itself was opening/closing properly, and it could even be used to verify that the switch is actually opening/closing due to moving the lever. If you could fit the probes into the back of the plug, you could even test if the switch is making good contact with the harness. It allows for a lot more definitive testing than just swapping in a paperclip.

Originally Posted by ZeroGravity360

but you also have to think that my adjustable levers are much closer to the handle bars, which I might need to alter it either way. If I go back to stock, I'll just switch the levers out. Or just be aware of the switch issue. After I get off of work this evening I will try both things and let you guys know the issue.

The part of the lever that your hand goes on is completely unrelated to the action of the switch. Only the little bit around the mounting area over to the tab that actuates the switch matters. That part should be nearly identical to stock (though it might be a tad off, causing this improper switching). If it was your main mounting bolt that was different, unexpected movement of the lever could obviously affect operation of the switch too.

[ZeroGravity360]

Originally Posted by InvisiBill

When you have a problem, you can test parts, or throw money at it by buying replacement parts. One way is more work initially, the other way can end up costing a lot more and being more work after you've swapped in a dozen new parts with no change.

In this case, you tested the rest of the circuit via the paperclip trick. Since that worked, you assumed the switch was bad, but didn't actually test it to verify. The problem could actually be the connections between the harness and the switch, the interaction between the lever and the switch, etc.

We all make assumptions. We assume Kawasaki used the right plunger length on the switch for it to turn on/off when you move the lever. Ignoring the ambiguity of the video, he showed that might not be the case. We assume the pins in the plug are making contact because that's simply what they're supposed to do (until the new part has the same problem).

I'm not trying to say you're an idiot because you just assumed the switch was bad (most people would consider that a reasonable conclusion based on the test), I'm just trying to point out that there can be other factors we forget about when we're troubleshooting. Even the guy in the video assumed the switch needed cleaning inside at first. You'll save yourself a lot of aggravation if you try to think about every possible little thing that could be causing your problem, even if it's something that shouldn't be a problem (like the stock parts not being the right length to work correctly). Verifying that those "should be" things actually "are" ensures you're not chasing your tail around some stupid little thing.

I suggest buying a multimeter (as cheap as $6 at Harbor Freight) at the next sign of any electrical problem. It'll allow you to test the electrical parts directly. In this case, it would show you if the switch by itself was opening/closing properly, and it could even be used to verify that the switch is actually opening/closing due to moving the lever. If you could fit the probes into the back of the plug, you could even test if the switch is making good contact with the harness. It allows for a lot more definitive testing than just swapping in a paperclip.




The part of the lever that your hand goes on is completely unrelated to the action of the switch. Only the little bit around the mounting area over to the tab that actuates the switch matters. That part should be nearly identical to stock (though it might be a tad off, causing this improper switching). If it was your main mounting bolt that was different, unexpected movement of the lever could obviously affect operation of the switch too.

I'm sorry but you a wrong here. Because the clutch lever is much closer to the handle bar when it is pulled the clutch doesn't extend all the way because there is less distance the clutch lever travels.

I know I am by no means an idiot, thanks for pointing that out. I'm also not by any means a mechanic, so I need you guys to remember that enforce getting critical. I am learning, this is my first bike and there will be trial am error.. Give me some credit for trying to figure it out my self instead of throwing 40-60 dollars an hour at the bikes hope guys. Okay? Lol,

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by ZeroGravity360

Okay... Huge problem again... I just got my clutch bolt and it's too short for the clutch bolt hole. I compared it to the brake bolt and it's the exact some size. Is this common??

Kudos for trying !!!

What part number did you order as the clutch bolt?

For a 2012 Ninja 250r:

The M6 bolt for the clutch lever is Kawasaki part 92154-0066 (Length ~ 1-7/8")

The M6 bolt for the front brake lever is Kawasaki part 92001-1728 (Length ~ 1-1/4")

They are very different in length.

(M6 means metric 6 mm exterior diameter of the thread).

If the switch is not clicking with the new clutch lever due to the adjustment that fits your hand, I would carefully file away some length of the plunge of the switch.
Of course, only after the new proper bolt is installed and eliminates some of the current pivot play of the lever.

Note that the bolt screws into the aluminum base (unless the thread has been stripped) and the nut acts like a locking nut to prevent turning of the bolt with the constant drag of the lever.
Apply plenty of waterproof lithium grease containing molybdenum disulphide (available at Pep-Boys) to the pivot and sliding surfaces.
Apply oil into the clutch cable and adjust the slack of the lever:

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Adjusting_the_clutch_cable

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Lubing_the_cables

[Alex]

Originally Posted by ZeroGravity360

I'm sorry but you a wrong here. Because the clutch lever is much closer to the handle bar when it is pulled the clutch doesn't extend all the way because there is less distance the clutch lever travels

This grates at me. It grates at me because ultimately your responses will make people less inclined to help you, which will make the board less helpful for those that come across your threads. Before stating that someone who has worlds more knowledge about motorcycle maintenance than yourself, and has taken their own time to try and help you out, is, well, *wrong*; step back for a moment and make sure you are understanding what they are trying to say.

Because he is right. The only thing that matters for your clutch switch to work is the action of the very end of the lever that touches the plunger. That's all he was trying to say. However the rest of the lever fits or doesn't fit your hand, comes too close or not close enough to the bar, doesn't matter when it comes to what you're troubleshooting right now: Does the plunger fully come out when it is supposed to / does the lever action properly depress the plunger when it is supposed to. If not, you have a physical problem with the operation of the switch. If so, then you have an electrical problem with the operation of the switch.

[ZeroGravity360]

@Alex unless I am doing this completely wrong the clutch switchis pushed in when the lever is not touched, but when you pull the clutch the switch is pushed outward by the spring, so if there is less distance the clutch moves the switch isn't coming out all the way as discribed in the video I shared above. I'm not trying to be an ass hole here really. But the switch isn't coming out all the way because there is much less of a distance between the hendlbar and my lever not allowing the switch to be extended there for needs to be shaved down. This is why I pointed out he was wrong in this issue.
This is a learning experience for everyone. Could be he nor I have eve experienced this issue and no one is right 100% of the time. Like I said this is trail and error and each bike has their own personalities. And after market parts as complications to the issues,


Or it would very we'll be just miscommunication trying yo type what I'm trying to say and not getting my point across correctly or vise versa. I could be reading what he is saying a different way than he is trying to say it. It's hard sometimes to get your point across on a forum.


Oh and let me point out before I started learning to work on my bike a few weeks ago I didn't even know how to out windshield whipper fluid in my car lol. So stop being so critical I'm trying to learn here and I have very little knowledge but everyone has to start somewhere

Edit: also anyone searching for a solution to this same issue needs to know that their adjustable levers change the distance of the little black tab on the bottom of their levers travel. That's what pushes in the clutch switch. So each time you change the adjustment of the clutch say 3 to 4 it also changes the distance the black tab moves witch might be restricting it to move out completely. So with all do respect, a simple minded person (like my self) the part your hand sits on the lever does effect what is going on with the switch because the black tab at the bottom is attached the the lever and it all moves together.

[ZeroGravity360]

Originally Posted by Motofool

Kudos for trying !!!

What part number did you order as the clutch bolt?

For a 2012 Ninja 250r:

The M6 bolt for the clutch lever is Kawasaki part 92154-0066 (Length ~ 1-7/8")

The M6 bolt for the front brake lever is Kawasaki part 92001-1728 (Length ~ 1-1/4")

They are very different in length.

(M6 means metric 6 mm exterior diameter of the thread).

If the switch is not clicking with the new clutch lever due to the adjustment that fits your hand, I would carefully file away some length of the plunge of the switch.
Of course, only after the new proper bolt is installed and eliminates some of the current pivot play of the lever.

Note that the bolt screws into the aluminum base (unless the thread has been stripped) and the nut acts like a locking nut to prevent turning of the bolt with the constant drag of the lever.
Apply plenty of waterproof lithium grease containing molybdenum disulphide (available at Pep-Boys) to the pivot and sliding surfaces.
Apply oil into the clutch cable and adjust the slack of the lever:

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Adjusting_the_clutch_cable

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Lubing_the_cables

Wow, lol yeah.. They had is advertised as a brake and clutch bolt... That's what I get for trying to go the cheap route.

[Alex]

Originally Posted by ZeroGravity360

@Alex unless I am doing this completely wrong the clutch switchis pushed in when the lever is not touched, but when you pull the clutch the switch is pushed outward by the spring, so if there is less distance the clutch moves the switch isn't coming out all the way as discribed in the video I shared above. I'm not trying to be an ass hole here really. But the switch isn't coming out all the way because there is much less of a distance between the hendlbar and my lever not allowing the switch to be extended there for needs to be shaved down. This is why I pointed out he was wrong in this issue.
This is a learning experience for everyone. Could be he nor I have eve experienced this issue and no one is right 100% of the time. Like I said this is trail and error and each bike has their own personalities. And after market parts as complications to the issues,


Or it would very we'll be just miscommunication trying yo type what I'm trying to say and not getting my point across correctly or vise versa. I could be reading what he is saying a different way than he is trying to say it. It's hard sometimes to get your point across on a forum.


Oh and let me point out before I started learning to work on my bike a few weeks ago I didn't even know how to out windshield whipper fluid in my car lol. So stop being so critical I'm trying to learn here and I have very little knowledge but everyone has to start somewhere

Edit: also anyone searching for a solution to this same issue needs to know that their adjustable levers change the distance of the little black tab on the bottom of their levers travel. That's what pushes in the clutch switch. So each time you change the adjustment of the clutch say 3 to 4 it also changes the distance the black tab moves witch might be restricting it to move out completely. So with all do respect, a simple minded person (like my self) the part your hand sits on the lever does effect what is going on with the switch because the black tab at the bottom is attached the the lever and it all moves together.

You're not helping your case.

[ZeroGravity360]

okay well then i will just leave it be then. thank you everyone for your help.

[Ghostt]

I'm not taking sides, so nobody get upset.

When your asking for help from a group of people, your getting their input, be it right or wrong, it's their input. Be respectful and remember that the person has taken their time to answer your.

Some will be nice, some will be short and to the point, and very few will just be rude, if you don't like what they say, just let it go, and move on, but before you do think about what the said, they might be rude, but they could also be right.

There are members here I've known for several years, and more, and from other forums, so I know when a particular member answers a question, I know to listen to that member, because they know what their talking about.

Now let's sing Kumbaya and make s'mores and have a big group hug and move on

[Ghostt]

@ZeroGravity360

You've learned the lesson that being cheap, doesn't necessarily means saving money.

Spend money the right way, and spend it once. There's a difference in spending money, and wasting money. Often people make this mistake, and in the end it costs more, than if they just got the proper item in the first place.

In the end it's yours to spend, as far as a bike goes it's your safety as well, and besides are you not worth it? Don't be afraid to spend a few dollars more to get what you need, want, etc... Why settle.

[ZeroGravity360]

Originally Posted by Ghostt

@ZeroGravity360

You've learned the lesson that being cheap, doesn't necessarily means saving money.

Spend money the right way, and spend it once. There's a difference in spending money, and wasting money. Often people make this mistake, and in the end it costs more, than if they just got the proper item in the first place.

In the end it's yours to spend, as far as a bike goes it's your safety as well, and besides are you not worth it? Don't be afraid to spend a few dollars more to get what you need, want, etc... Why settle.

I do have a problem with being cheap. I really need to work on that. I think this clutch issue has taught me my lesson

[InvisiBill]

Originally Posted by ZeroGravity360

also anyone searching for a solution to this same issue needs to know that their adjustable levers change the distance of the little black tab on the bottom of their levers travel. That's what pushes in the clutch switch. So each time you change the adjustment of the clutch say 3 to 4 it also changes the distance the black tab moves witch might be restricting it to move out completely. So with all do respect, a simple minded person (like my self) the part your hand sits on the lever does effect what is going on with the switch because the black tab at the bottom is attached the the lever and it all moves together.

The adjuster on the lever changes how far the "hand" part of the lever is from the "hub" part. As long you're able to fully pull the lever without interference, then the hub part, which hooks to the clutch cable and contains the tab to actuate the switch, is in exactly the same position regardless of what setting the lever is on. The hand part will be a different distance from the bar depending on the setting, but the hub part will always be in the same location, at the end of the clutch cable's reach. The tab's movement only changes if the lever is hitting the bar before it can make its full arc (the tab's movement is reduced due to the incomplete lever movement).

Picture example: I jammed a nut between the lever and the perch to hold the clutch in a pulled position. Regardless of the setting used or how close to the bar the end of the lever is, the clutch cable is pulled to the same point and the safety switch is extended the same amount. The hand part pivots around the silver hex bolt up by the adjuster, but the hub part is in the same place. If you pulled the lever all the way back to the bar on each setting, yes, the hub would be more or less pulled depending on the setting.

(P.S. Yes, these cheap levers will fade over time.)

If your lever is hitting the bar before you've fully pulled the clutch cable, that could definitely interfere with the switch's operation. With my aftermarket levers, it's no longer touching the switch even in the smallest 1 position with the lever hitting the bar.


If you have the wrong bolt in the lever and it's wiggling around, it's possible the pivot point of the lever is shifting toward the cable, making the lever hit the bar before it can fully pull the cable. Just getting the right bolt in there might make it able to pull the cable fully at/before hitting the bar.

Personally, I'd wait to get the right bolt, then make sure the clutch cable is adjusted properly, then see if the switch is still an issue. I believe this was a problem even when you had the stock lever, which it shouldn't be. Aftermarket parts add uncertainty, but they should be close enough to stock that they work like stock for the most part (they won't sell many if they don't work right). This hints toward something else, common between both levers, being the root cause of the problem. If the safety switch isn't being fully actuated, there's also the possibility that the lever isn't fully disengaging the clutch, which could be making things more difficult than necessary for you.

You might still end up trimming the switch post a tad for your new lever, but I'd fix the known issues before assuming that the stock Kawasaki parts used on every bike are the wrong size on yours. All of the stock parts together should work properly, or we'd hear a lot more about it.

[ZeroGravity360]

Originally Posted by InvisiBill

The hand part will be a different distance from the bar depending on the setting, but the hub part will always be in the same location, at the end of the clutch cable's reach. The tab's movement only changes if the lever is hitting the bar before it can make its full arc (the tab's movement is reduced due to the incomplete lever movement).

Picture example: I jammed a nut between the lever and the perch to hold the clutch in a pulled position. Regardless of the setting used or how close to the bar the end of the lever is, the clutch cable is pulled to the same point and the safety switch is extended the same amount. The hand part pivots around the silver hex bolt up by the adjuster, but the hub part is in the same place. If you pulled the lever all the way back to the bar on each setting, yes, the hub would be more or less pulled depending on the setting.

(P.S. Yes, these cheap levers will fade over time.)

If your lever is hitting the bar before you've fully pulled the clutch cable, that could definitely interfere with the switch's operation. With my aftermarket levers, it's no longer touching the switch even in the smallest 1 position with the lever hitting the bar.


If you have the wrong bolt in the lever and it's wiggling around, it's possible the pivot point of the lever is shifting toward the cable, making the lever hit the bar before it can fully pull the cable. Just getting the right bolt in there might make it able to pull the cable fully at/before hitting the bar.

Personally, I'd wait to get the right bolt, then make sure the clutch cable is adjusted properly, then see if the switch is still an issue. I believe this was a problem even when you had the stock lever, which it shouldn't be. Aftermarket parts add uncertainty, but they should be close enough to stock that they work like stock for the most part (they won't sell many if they don't work right). This hints toward something else, common between both levers, being the root cause of the problem. If the safety switch isn't being fully actuated, there's also the possibility that the lever isn't fully disengaging the clutch, which could be making things more difficult than necessary for you.

You might still end up trimming the switch post a tad for your new lever, but I'd fix the known issues before assuming that the stock Kawasaki parts used on every bike are the wrong size on yours. All of the stock parts together should work properly, or we'd hear a lot more about it.

I am almost positive this is what is happening. Not knowing much about my bike I didn't realize what an idiot the previous owner was. He literally took a skinny screw and duck taped it to be larger. Here is a picture after I took all the tape off. The tape was sticky on both sides which might have also led to my issues with it. (I personally think this was a safety risk, but not entirely sure.) I am going to wait for the correct bolt to come it. I made sure I ordered the correct size this time. Hopefully this really frustrating issue gets solved soon, because I have almost been in tears the last few days from being so angry at my bike...

oh, and I cannot see your pictures you shared right now, it could be due to my work computer filtering "suspicious" links.

[ZeroGravity360]

I have finally recieved my bolt and came to the conclusion that @InvisiBill was right as far as the levers allowing the switch to come out all the way. However, when I finally get everything put back together I found out that the clutch switch was actually getting stuck inside the switch housing about everyone one out of three times. I tried getting extra lude and that did not work, so I tried to switch out the springs, but in doing so the other spring went flying across the parking lot, so not it is just hanging which allows a bypass. Not sure how much more time and effort I can put into it.

[ZeroGravity360]

Oh and I forgot to mention in screwing and unscrewing the clutch handle bolt to take off and on the switch, I stripped the inside of the bolt housing which made me use the nut from the brake lever temperately, if you are doing the same thing as me be very careful not to do this too

[InvisiBill]

Originally Posted by ZeroGravity360

I have finally recieved my bolt and came to the conclusion that @InvisiBill was right as far as the levers allowing the switch to come out all the way. However, when I finally get everything put back together I found out that the clutch switch was actually getting stuck inside the switch housing about everyone one out of three times. I tried getting extra lude and that did not work, so I tried to switch out the springs, but in doing so the other spring went flying across the parking lot, so not it is just hanging which allows a bypass. Not sure how much more time and effort I can put into it.

Are both switches getting hung up? Can you actuate it with the cover off to see exactly what's hanging up? It might be something as simple as a little molding imperfection on one of the plastic pieces. I think it fits in there pretty precisely, but there may be a tiny bit of wiggle room with the mounting screws - sometimes just mounting it a hair differently is enough to avoid something hanging up.

Just keep in mind that without that switch working properly, the starter will run with the bike in gear if the sidestand is up. The switch keeps you from doing something you shouldn't, and can no longer do so if it's bypassed.