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Old June 10th, 2013, 10:33 AM   #1
agentbad
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Bad stuttering at higher rpms

I took my bike on the highway for the first time and as I was getting into the higher rpms I started to get some really bad stuttering around 6000 to 7000rpm. I have been running seafoam through the carbs but it doesn't seem to be doing much. I have also noticed when I start the bike when I try to give it throttle right away it will die. I can give it a little throttle and it will give out this sound like air is leaking with a sputter on the right side. Does this sound like a carb issue or something else?

Last futzed with by agentbad; June 10th, 2013 at 11:34 AM.
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Old June 10th, 2013, 02:06 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agentbad View Post
I took my bike on the highway for the first time and as I was getting into the higher rpms I started to get some really bad stuttering around 6000 to 7000rpm. I have been running seafoam through the carbs but it doesn't seem to be doing much. I have also noticed when I start the bike when I try to give it throttle right away it will die. I can give it a little throttle and it will give out this sound like air is leaking with a sputter on the right side. Does this sound like a carb issue or something else?
You probably need to clean the carbs. Replace the fuel filter while you're at it. How is your idle after the bike warms up? What rpm does it idle at?

After you've warmed up the bike try to lower the rpms to the lowest rpm you can and let us know what you get.
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Old June 10th, 2013, 08:16 PM   #3
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Does the bike have a jet kit or shimmed Carb needles? Any mods to the air box? By stuttering do you mean it will not go past 6-7k rpm, or it only stutters during those rpm's but continues running above that rpm?
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Old June 11th, 2013, 05:48 AM   #4
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It will rev past that but it stutters/jerks when I try to keep a constant cruising speed and it's really distracting. As far as I know it's stock. The original owner said the carbs had been cleaned but they must have done a crap job. It only has 5600 miles or so it's not quite time for a valve check.

You know what I bet when the last owner installed the pod filter he didn't rejet the carbs. That would make sense why it's running bad. I didn't notice it until just now.

Last futzed with by agentbad; June 11th, 2013 at 08:41 AM.
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Old June 11th, 2013, 07:35 PM   #5
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Mine has the exact same problem. Anything from 6k-8k rpm, especially in 5th gear, stutters really badly. I just finished adjusting my valves and syncing my carbs, so I know that isn't the culprit. It's driving me crazy!
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Old June 12th, 2013, 12:49 PM   #6
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I am pretty sure the previous owner screwed the carb up when he cleaned it last and he also didn't rejet after adding a K&N pod filter. Fortunately that will make getting the carbs off way easier without the air box getting in the way. Mine is running to lean now because of the K&N filter and possibly a bad gasket on one side.

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Mine has the exact same problem. Anything from 6k-8k rpm, especially in 5th gear, stutters really badly. I just finished adjusting my valves and syncing my carbs, so I know that isn't the culprit. It's driving me crazy!
You sure all the jets were clean?
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Old June 12th, 2013, 02:14 PM   #7
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Quote:
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I am pretty sure the previous owner screwed the carb up when he cleaned it last and he also didn't rejet after adding a K&N pod filter. Fortunately that will make getting the carbs off way easier without the air box getting in the way. Mine is running to lean now because of the K&N filter and possibly a bad gasket on one side.



You sure all the jets were clean?
That may well be it. I used the two-bottle method to sync them, so I didn't dig too far into it but now I'm thinking I should have just gone ahead and taken the carbs off while I was at it and given them a good cleaning.

Would shimming the needles help at all?
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Old June 12th, 2013, 03:45 PM   #8
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That may well be it. I used the two-bottle method to sync them, so I didn't dig too far into it but now I'm thinking I should have just gone ahead and taken the carbs off while I was at it and given them a good cleaning.

Would shimming the needles help at all?
I know for the pod filters you are supposed to but not sure about stock.
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Old June 12th, 2013, 04:00 PM   #9
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Before attempting surgery, check if you have enough fuel supply (2 cc per second) to the carbs.

If so, try using the choke when the problem appears and note any difference.
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Old June 12th, 2013, 04:43 PM   #10
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inspect the air cleaner.

edit: oh i see pod filters. check jetting. get rid of the pods.
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Old June 13th, 2013, 12:48 PM   #11
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inspect the air cleaner.

edit: oh i see pod filters. check jetting. get rid of the pods.
I would put the old air box back in but the guy got rid of it. I agree with rejetting I am reading the ninja faq and it says something between 108, 110, 112 for the main jet. You need one for both carbs correct? Also should I shim the needles as well?
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Old June 13th, 2013, 12:57 PM   #12
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2 carbs means 2 sets of each jet. you will need to adjust the pilot jets also. jetsrus.com
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Old June 13th, 2013, 12:59 PM   #13
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Question

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Originally Posted by alex.s View Post
2 carbs means 2 sets of each jet. you will need to adjust the pilot jets also. jetsrus.com
Could he partially block the air intake by covering part of the pods?

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I took my bike on the highway for the first time and...........
At least temporarily, he could limit the excess of air in the mix and finally start riding that bike.
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Old June 13th, 2013, 01:04 PM   #14
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its definitely a hack. but it would temporarily get it closer. but correct jetting with a real air cleaner (that isn't wrapped in tape that can come off/shift/do something different) should be a priority


you should be able to buy a used airbox for cheap
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Old June 14th, 2013, 10:19 AM   #15
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Before attempting surgery, check if you have enough fuel supply (2 cc per second) to the carbs.

If so, try using the choke when the problem appears and note any difference.
How would I check the amount of fuel supply to the carbs? That's a good idea about the choke maybe that will help it not run so lean. If I were to block part of the filter what material would I use? I have duck tape and a old rag ready for Macgyvering.
Quote:
Originally Posted by alex.s View Post
its definitely a hack. but it would temporarily get it closer. but correct jetting with a real air cleaner (that isn't wrapped in tape that can come off/shift/do something different) should be a priority


you should be able to buy a used airbox for cheap
I'd like to keep the pod filter just because it makes maintenance a lot easier by freeing up space and the little boost in hp seems worth it.
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Old June 14th, 2013, 10:27 AM   #16
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How would I check the amount of fuel supply to the carbs? That's a good idea about the choke maybe that will help it not run so lean.
Just disconnect the vaccum hose from the petcock and connect another clean hose from which you can suck with your mouth.

Then disconnect the hose that feeds the carbs and place the end inside a glass container of known volume.

Open the petcock and apply vacuum to it and record the time that it takes to fill the container or to reach any pre-made mark.

Don't know how to block the filters; it was just an idea to test if the mix is too lean or if you have other problems.

You may find additional ideas in this concurrent thread:

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=137183
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Old June 20th, 2013, 11:33 AM   #17
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Which jet kit should I get? I am going to have a local shop install it since I am not experienced with carbs yet.
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Old June 22nd, 2013, 11:58 AM   #18
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I run factory pro jets and I think they're pretty awesome. Best money I've spent on the ninja by far.

It's pretty important you get the jetting right because this stuttering is because your running too lean in the mid range. If you're on a tight budget I would just buy the washers and shim the needles. Ideally you want to buy the jet kit because it's pretty touchy and hard to tune optimally without the right set of main jets.

If you're mid range is suffering (which in your case it is) then your high range is gonna suffer just as well.

Just as an fyi I run 110 main jets and the needles in clip position number 2 w/ one washer underneath. You can check out the "How to pod" thread to see how I tuned mine.
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Old June 24th, 2013, 10:44 AM   #19
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Thanks for the advice. The Ninja faq wiki suggests factory pro over dyno as well. I am going to take it in this week and get it worked on at one of the local shops. Whats a good online store that sells the factory pro kit for my bike '05 Ninja 250F. I see they have it on there website for around $100 after shipping but I have seen it for $80. Think the model is CRB-K13-3.0.

edit: Going the jetsrus route.

Last futzed with by agentbad; June 24th, 2013 at 06:17 PM.
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