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Old October 22nd, 2013, 08:38 PM   #41
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Because I do not feel like buying new fairings any time soon, here are some of my attempts to salvage what I have with ABS cement. ABS cement is magical.

Rebuilt the tab on this and it works just fine. I've put it on the bike a few times and it hasn't broken so I think it's strong enough. There's a corner missing as well but it's normally hidden by the other tail fairings so I probably won't replace this piece.


This guy... I have two pieces of it and as you can see, it's still missing a very large portion of it (the entire section underneath where the decal is). I just wanted it at least in one piece so it will still be useable, even though it's not pretty. Not really a fan of half the tail section being gone so I just want something there to keep the bike covered. At least the missing portion and the section where there's tons of ABS cement faces the ground. I will very likely replace this piece so I don't know if I want to bother trying to rebuild more of this piece.


I've also done some work repairing the cracks and holes that were in my right side fairing, but no pics at the moment. When I took it off the bike, it was cracked halfway through so the whole piece felt flimsy, unstable, and like it was going to fall apart. Now it feels like one solid piece again.
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Old October 22nd, 2013, 08:40 PM   #42
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Old October 22nd, 2013, 09:02 PM   #43
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Also, fun adventure from this morning. I was trying to remove the gas tank again and was staring right at the fuel hose while unplugging it. Got an eyeful of gasoline.

JESUS ****ING CHRIST THAT WAS THE WORST THING EVER. THAT **** BURNED LIKE FIRE FROM THE DEPTHS OF HELL.

Rinsed out my eye for a good long time and it felt fine again after an hour or so. Strongly dislike. Would not do again.
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Old October 23rd, 2013, 10:30 PM   #44
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Found a reasonable deal on a tail fairing piece so **** rebuilding my piece of ****. It's pearl stardust white though so I'll have to repaint it. Was already planning to repaint all the black fairings to green anyway so no big deal.

Was informed that my fairing stay was worked on and looks straight now. Will get it back and attempt to put it on the bike next week.
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Old October 24th, 2013, 12:36 PM   #45
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Loving your rebuild thread Rebecca. Thanks for the pro tip regarding not getting petrol in in eyeballs.
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Old October 24th, 2013, 03:02 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tfkrocks View Post
Also, fun adventure from this morning. I was trying to remove the gas tank again and was staring right at the fuel hose while unplugging it. Got an eyeful of gasoline.

JESUS ****ING CHRIST THAT WAS THE WORST THING EVER. THAT **** BURNED LIKE FIRE FROM THE DEPTHS OF HELL.

Rinsed out my eye for a good long time and it felt fine again after an hour or so. Strongly dislike. Would not do again.
oh dear. i've been there. kevin got my right in the face with a tube full of gasoline one time. was washing my face for a solid half hour. the burn!
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Old October 24th, 2013, 09:46 PM   #47
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Old October 24th, 2013, 10:27 PM   #48
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Tried to measure my brake lines so I can finally order them. ****ing ABS brake lines are a headache. I kinda wish I just went with the non-ABS bike so I could've easily ordered a kit in the colors I want. The aluminum bolts attaching the lines to the ABS unit were really tight and I started stripping a lot of them. Thankfully I got them all off. The length of the metal pipes going between the rubber lines to the ABS unit were a bitch to estimate since they're hard and angular and won't reflect the actual line length. Measured every line at least 5 times. Still don't trust my measurements. Will get someone to check my measurements before I order because I don't want to **** up a custom order.

If anyone was wondering, I believe that the fittings to the ABS unit are fitting 419 on this page: http://www.spieglerusa.com/standard-line
It's definitely an M10 bolt. The stock length is a tiny bit shorter, but it shouldn't make a difference. There's no shorter one available anyway.
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Old October 28th, 2013, 11:08 PM   #49
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Fairing stay is now relatively straight and bolts on. Instrument cluster and headlight securely went into place without issues. It's not even bolted on right now. Didn't feel like looking at parts diagrams and digging through a bag of bolts so I just left it like that for now. No the clip-ons aren't straight because it's not important at the moment and I don't care lol.



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Old October 29th, 2013, 10:34 AM   #50
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Did you use a flare nut wrench?

Just an example:
http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-5...1&blockType=G1


Last futzed with by algs26; October 29th, 2013 at 11:44 AM. Reason: example link, added pic
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Old October 29th, 2013, 10:36 AM   #51
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Did you use a flare nut wrench?
No. I've actually never heard of one.
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Old October 29th, 2013, 10:44 AM   #52
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We always called those "line wrenches". Basically a box wrench that you can use on a fitting (like a brake line) that has a line running through it.
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Old October 29th, 2013, 11:04 AM   #53
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I just used whatever open-end wrench fit.
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Old October 29th, 2013, 11:28 AM   #54
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I just used whatever open-end wrench fit.
Line wrenches have much more contact and won't mess-up the fastener if it's really snug like an open-end will.
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Old October 29th, 2013, 11:32 AM   #55
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I'm trying to keep the tool buying down to a minimum though since buying parts hasn't been nice to the wallet. All of the open/combination wrenches I use are my dad's; I don't actually have any of my own yet.
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Old October 29th, 2013, 12:31 PM   #56
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Oh! Hey, for future reference, since the races are different sizes, you can use a 1" pipe and a giant socket to get both out.

Take the top one first. Just the 1" pipe is needed because the ID of the bottom cup is larger than the pipe, but the ID of the upper cup is smaller. Slide up from the bottom, bash with hammer upside down (watch those fingers).

Now for the bottom one. Drop in giant socket from top, follow with pipe, bash with hammer.

Only takes 10 minutes once you figure it out.


Don't you wish I'd posted that earlier?? :P
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Old October 29th, 2013, 12:33 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by choneofakind View Post
Oh! Hey, for future reference, since the races are different sizes, you can use a 1" pipe and a giant socket to get both out.

Take the top one first. Just the 1" pipe is needed because the ID of the bottom cup is larger than the pipe, but the ID of the upper cup is smaller. Slide up from the bottom, bash with hammer upside down (watch those fingers).

Now for the bottom one. Drop in giant socket from top, follow with pipe, bash with hammer.

Only takes 10 minutes once you figure it out.


Don't you wish I'd posted that earlier?? :P
It was actually rather easy once I got a nice sturdy metal rod haha.
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Old October 29th, 2013, 12:37 PM   #58
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You get the new bearings in yet?
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Old October 29th, 2013, 12:42 PM   #59
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You get the new bearings in yet?
It was about halfway down the first page
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Old October 29th, 2013, 12:46 PM   #60
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Oh look at that, we ARE on page 2. I'm with it today. Kinda.

Fail.
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Old October 30th, 2013, 05:36 PM   #61
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Glad to see your making progress
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Old October 30th, 2013, 09:47 PM   #62
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Ugh, so many things to do but so lazy...
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Old October 30th, 2013, 10:44 PM   #63
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theres cheap labor by home depot
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Old October 31st, 2013, 12:14 AM   #64
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I'm trying to fix my bike, not make it worse lol
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Old November 6th, 2013, 09:57 PM   #65
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Yay I finally have my obnoxious colored brake lines







And then I got bored and didn't want to do anything more so that's it for now. I have a terrible attention span.
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Old November 6th, 2013, 10:13 PM   #66
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Double post because I forgot I took some other pictures.

Started working on my cracked/rashed side fairing panel. Took off the decals, sanded a lot of it down, and filled in the cracks. This is going to take a very long while...

Here's what they looked like after I took off the decals.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMAG0790.jpg (67.1 KB, 6 views)
File Type: jpg IMAG0791.jpg (69.0 KB, 6 views)
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Old November 6th, 2013, 10:49 PM   #67
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The lines look amazing! Wow the fairings, shouldn't take to terribly long to fix though.
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Old November 6th, 2013, 10:54 PM   #68
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Really good job on documenting your progress.
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Old November 7th, 2013, 05:16 AM   #69
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Cool way they placed the abs controller. Suck though, did you have to bleed all of that?!?
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Old November 7th, 2013, 06:51 AM   #70
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Cool way they placed the abs controller. Suck though, did you have to bleed all of that?!?
I will soon. I'm going to wait until I actually have a brake pedal mounted again though to make things easier.
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Old November 7th, 2013, 09:11 AM   #71
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Vacuum bleeder for the win!
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Old November 7th, 2013, 01:15 PM   #72
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I'm cheap so I'll be pumping away for a good long time
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Old November 7th, 2013, 01:15 PM   #73
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*keeps dirty mind to self*
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Old November 7th, 2013, 01:26 PM   #74
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hahahahahahah
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Old November 8th, 2013, 07:52 AM   #75
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I woke up at 2am and decided, “Hey, I should work on my bike!” I seem to do a good amount of work in the middle of the night...

Put on the Slingshot Racing Carbon Fiber rear hugger I’ve been holding onto for a while. Woodcraft rearsets mostly installed. I am very grateful that I have a fully assembled and functional Ninja 250 right next to the 300 in the garage; it came in handy for helping me reassemble everything on the rear brake pedal.







I couldn’t get this off the shift rod though. How in the hell do I get this off?

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Old November 8th, 2013, 08:08 AM   #76
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Rebecca,

unthread the rod and put the ball joint on your new rearset.
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Old November 8th, 2013, 08:30 AM   #77
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Rebecca,

unthread the rod and put the ball joint on your new rearset.
I was having issues with unthreading the rod... Nothing to grip.
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Old November 8th, 2013, 08:39 AM   #78
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I was having issues with unthreading the rod... Nothing to grip.
vice grips, channel locks, bench vice?

You do know that the shifter rod is reverse threaded on one end right? Instead of lefty loosey, it's the opposite. Back the lock nut off and you should be able unthread it.

You can double up on the nuts on one end where the outer or inner nut tightens against the other. Then use a wrench to break the rod free using one of the nuts.

I hope that was easy to understand.
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Old November 8th, 2013, 09:03 AM   #79
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You do know that the shifter rod is reverse threaded on one end right? Instead of lefty loosey, it's the opposite. Back the lock nut off and you should be able unthread it.
I did not know that. Easily hand-loosened it after reattaching the shift pedal haha.

That's better. Also threw the passenger pegs back on.

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Old November 8th, 2013, 09:39 AM   #80
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Haha! Glad you got it! Reason why it's reverse threaded is because it makes shifter adjustments easier. Loosen the lock nuts, and twist the shift rod to adjust where you want the shifter to be.
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