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Old February 22nd, 2012, 09:57 PM   #1
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Gas Cap Install

I am not going to go into depth or a DYI on how to change out your fuel cap for a better looking fuel cap. But I want to warn a few of you out there what not to buy as far as brand wise.

I am being cheap on modding this 250 so if you don't like it stop reading and move on. Otherwise, pay attention.

There have been many purchases on EBay that have been made over the years on all my motorcycles. Most have been good but a few slide through with "Not so good" or "Could have been better" moments. This one falls under the "Not so good" category.

So here I am. Most of these inexpensive purchases are in the spirit of losing weight and ease of use. On a race bike looks is last on my priorities. I purchased a SSR (Slingshot Racing) gas cap off of EBay. I also purchased the Preload Adjusters as well but that will be another story once I install those later. Anyhow, all my bikes have the easy spin off gas caps. I started with Vortex brand on my ZRX and they are made well and priced so so. On my Hayabusa, I opted for an off brand Chinese knockoff. After comparing a few different brands on EBay, I chose one and the price was right....cheap. I installed and it fit perfect and to this day still functions right. This one from SSR wasn't all that inexpensive but not much out there for the 250 for a good price.

Well I received it and it does look good and all for the type of aluminum they use (Chinese). Disappointed that no silver bolts were included so I knew I had to supply the factory ones. I attempted to install it and first off would not fit down into the opening of the tank on the outer part. Then upon clocking it to align the 3 bolts that are actually used to fasten down to the tank, well it doesn't line up when you place the spout (inner opening) into the opening of the tank. Hmmm off by about 1/4".

I also noticed that the 3 mounting holes are taller than the unused 3 holes. On the factory gas cap they are all even. I wanted to assure the cap would fit down inside well and be flush with the top of the tank so I grinded them down to be even with the others. I then had to grind the outside of the posts to keep from rubbing on the outside of the opening. No I wasn't going to return it as it would be a waste of time and shipping to bother. For me the problems are nothing I couldn't fix. For some of you a different story. I could have done better like drilling and tapping new bolt holes in the tank as well as making new notches for the unused holes and have everything line up perfect but I chose the easy way out. My main concern is the have the rubber gasket to seal fuel from leaking where it may not contact as well as the other side. Until I ride the bike again I will not know for sure but I do have a fix waiting in the background if it does.

So with all of my bitching I have been doing now, I warn the members here to be careful or aware of what you are purchasing and from who. I have been doing this long enough so depending on cost, I can just about fix anything.....and in most cases I fix it right........not always though...LOL!!

Again the purpose of this change out was for weight loss. How much you ask?

Stock cap with bolts - 1lb 1oz.
Aftermarket cap with bolts - 5oz.
Savings - 12oz.

Yea seems like so little but when you remove weight everywhere you count all the weight. Before you know it a few lbs have been removed.

To SSR, I am very disappointed especially for the price.
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Old February 22nd, 2012, 11:03 PM   #2
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I have the SSR also. Received it in July, installed it with no mods in about 5 minutes or less, works great, no issues. Sits flush, no spillage and we use a dry break filler. I'm wondering if they sent you the wrong one?
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Old February 23rd, 2012, 07:10 AM   #3
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Quote:
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I have the SSR also. Received it in July, installed it with no mods in about 5 minutes or less, works great, no issues. Sits flush, no spillage and we use a dry break filler. I'm wondering if they sent you the wrong one?
Hard to say as the Kawasakis are almost all the same. I'll take it off and take pics of what I encountered. Like I said not really big deal.
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Old February 23rd, 2012, 08:32 AM   #4
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My recollection of the SSR cap I had on one of my old 250s is that there was only one way the cap would go on. There were several ways that it would be a tad off on one or more holes, but only one where everything lined up.
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Old February 23rd, 2012, 10:33 AM   #5
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I have one from SSR as well and it works just fine. Put it in and tighten the bolts with standard star pattern and the thing went in fine.
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Old February 23rd, 2012, 10:52 AM   #6
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Well here is the question to you guys that have one. Is the hole centered or off centered when the screw cap is off looking into the tank? On this setup it is off center towards the front of the bike so it can only go on that way but mine has to be clocked to the right to have the bolt holes to line up therefore causing the hole to be slightly misaligned where it meets the entry of the tank.
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Old February 23rd, 2012, 11:06 AM   #7
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Off center to front and right. Tiny vent hole on left. Filler flush all the way around.
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Old February 23rd, 2012, 11:32 AM   #8
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Off center to front and right. Tiny vent hole on left. Filler flush all the way around.
Yea but is the tank off to the right as well?
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Old February 23rd, 2012, 09:09 PM   #9
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Here are some pics. Tell me if I am smokin crack.

The 3 bolt stands were a little over a 1/16 of an inch taller than the dummy stands. This caused the top to be a little over the top of the tank. I like it to be even with the tank.



The stands were a tad wider than the rim so it would rub as you placed it down into the opening. I grinded all of them to assure no contact.




Here is a pic of where it was rubbing before modding it.



And now the biggest issue I have. The center fill hole is off to the side. An obvious machining mistake, etc. No Quality Control checks before this was shipped. You can tell just by the bolt holes alone how far off it is.



The tank opening.

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Old February 23rd, 2012, 09:12 PM   #10
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For now it works. I be able to tell once I go crazy in the corners with some gas in it......
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Old February 23rd, 2012, 09:31 PM   #11
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Yes. The filler on the tank is slightly off center. From the pics, yours appears to not be like that. Very strange.
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Old February 23rd, 2012, 09:37 PM   #12
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So your filler on the tank is offset like the cap? Weird. This is 2008 if that matters.
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Old February 27th, 2012, 11:23 PM   #13
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I have the SSR cap, it doesn't sit perfectly flush, but the fit is acceptable, and it wasn't too expensive, plus the lack of the the whine from the gas cap in traffic is worth every penny. If I ever decide to sell, I can always stick the oem cap back on. I didn't have the fit issue above though. Hopefully thats just an anomaly since I just ordered an emission delete plate...
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Old March 1st, 2012, 06:52 PM   #14
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Is there a link to the SSR gas tank?
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Old March 1st, 2012, 08:06 PM   #15
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Quote:
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Is there a link to the SSR gas tank?
You mean the gas cap?

Assuming you have 2008-2012 Ninja 250R

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2008-2009-09...item3f13bd533f
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Old March 1st, 2012, 08:17 PM   #16
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Yeah gas cap my bad and thanks.
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Old June 17th, 2020, 08:22 AM   #17
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rubber o-ring cracking

I know this thread is old but I just acquired a 2008 250R and it has an SSR fuel cap on it.
I opened it and found that the o-ring under the cap is cracked in multiple places.

Is this normal that you have to replace these darn caps every few years?

I also read in the manufacturer website that we are supposed to apply a thin layer of silicone on the rubber to protect it? Wouldn't the silicone gets dislodged by the gasoline and end up in the combustion chamber?
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Old June 17th, 2020, 10:21 AM   #18
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Hi, it's common issue due to flaws in original design. Here's discussion I made on them: https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=344615

Discovered seal issue under max-braking going into T-10 @ Thunderhill and about 2-gallons of gas flowed out from gap between cap & tank!

Original SSR O-ring is low-quality material and degrades quickly. I rummaged through back of auto-parts store and found genuine butyl-rubber flat O-ring that matches. I've had to use 2 O-ring seals. Glued them together with Yamabond-4 and to cap & tank on top & bottom as well.


BTW - OP mis-installed his cap. Should've been clocked 60-degrees to left and use short "dummy" holes for mounting so nozzle fill-holes line up. Longer mounts hang over nothing and their longer-length is accomodated by larger non-threaded holes. No grinding necessary.

Last futzed with by DannoXYZ; July 3rd, 2020 at 09:33 AM.
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Old June 17th, 2020, 10:39 AM   #19
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Quote:
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Hi, it's common issue due to flaws in original design. Here's discussion I made on them: https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=344615

Discovered seal issue under max-braking going into T-10 @ Thunderhill and about 2-gallons of gas flowed out from gap between cap & tank!

Original O-ring is low-quality material and degrades quickly. I rummaged through back of auto-parts store and found genuine butyl-rubber flat O-ring that matches. I've had to use 2 O-ring seals. Glued them together with Yamabond-4 and to cap & tank on top & bottom as well.


BTW - OP mis-installed his cap. Should've been clocked 60-degrees to left and use short "dummy" holes for mounting so fill-holes line up. Longer mounts hang over nothing and their longer-length is accomodated by larger non-threaded holes. No grinding necessary.
Thanks for highlighting the issues. Appreciate it.

So, has anyone seen a 3rd party solution out there besides SSR that really works without us replacing o-rings or pasting o-rings together?
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Old June 17th, 2020, 11:06 AM   #20
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Looks like Revzilla has a Halo version for about the same price as the OEM and the reviews are pretty good.

Around $150

I asked a few questions and previous owners responded that they go on tracks with it and no spills.
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Old June 17th, 2020, 02:22 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arthury View Post
Looks like Revzilla has a Halo version for about the same price as the OEM and the reviews are pretty good.

Around $150

I asked a few questions and previous owners responded that they go on tracks with it and no spills.
Hopefully that's not real photo of product. Those 3 mounting holes do not line up with what's available on tank. Needs mounting holes at 1, 5 and 9 o'clock positions. Here's one with holes in proper position (along with 3 dummy holes).

https://www.ebay.com/itm/113894313896
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Old June 18th, 2020, 04:05 AM   #22
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My SSR cap also gave me a nice spray of gas right on my chin at the first hard brake on the track.

I contacted SSR and they sold me for $5 a new seal that also came with a bit a grease to apply on it. Not sure what type of grease.
I installed the new seal and tried again. With full tank, a hard brake would still let some gas out, but not as badly as before. So now I don't top the tank off. Or if I do, I don't brake hard until it came a bit down.

Yeah, those dummy holes are bummers. I wonder why they did it that way. I took a bit to figure it out, but not a big deal.
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Old June 18th, 2020, 06:02 AM   #23
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Quote:
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My SSR cap also gave me a nice spray of gas right on my chin at the first hard brake on the track.

I contacted SSR and they sold me for $5 a new seal that also came with a bit a grease to apply on it. Not sure what type of grease.
I installed the new seal and tried again. With full tank, a hard brake would still let some gas out, but not as badly as before. So now I don't top the tank off. Or if I do, I don't brake hard until it came a bit down.

Yeah, those dummy holes are bummers. I wonder why they did it that way. I took a bit to figure it out, but not a big deal.
Good explanation: it's crystal clear.
Thanks!
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Old June 18th, 2020, 09:03 AM   #24
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If you look at all the direct-from-China vendors that sell this cap:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/132000300755
https://www.ebay.com/itm/132315518596

It's obvious that it comes with 2 O-rings for proper fit. Not sure why SSR one doesn't. Probably to save $0.50 and make bigger profits.

As for dymmy holes, there's only 3 threaded holes on tank at 1, 5, 9 o'clock positions. Cap would look wierd with just bolts at those locations, so 3 other holes are included with dummy bolts to make it look more even with 6-bolts every 60-degrees.

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Old June 19th, 2020, 10:24 AM   #25
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Quote:
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[...]
I contacted SSR and they sold me for $5 a new seal that also came with a bit a grease to apply on it. Not sure what type of grease.
[...]
I contacted them, too. And, they have raised the price by 100% to $10 !
I pulled out the o-ring and found out that they are just merely an ordinary rubber o-ring at 65mm in diameter.

Should be able to get one in a material that can withstanding constant contact with gasoline.
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Old July 2nd, 2020, 03:58 PM   #26
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I actually bought a new OEM cap from kawi not too long ago. It had a completely different seal from the original one that came on the bike. It was a dark red rubber with a part number on it. I haven't gotten around to taking pics of it but it looks to me like kawi heard the community and changed it.
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Old July 2nd, 2020, 04:02 PM   #27
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Thanks for chiming in.
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Old July 3rd, 2020, 09:31 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emu View Post
I actually bought a new OEM cap from kawi not too long ago. It had a completely different seal from the original one that came on the bike. It was a dark red rubber with a part number on it. I haven't gotten around to taking pics of it but it looks to me like kawi heard the community and changed it.
Awesome find! Can you give us part#? Thx
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Old July 3rd, 2020, 10:21 AM   #29
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These marks are the only ones I can see without disassembling the cap. I think it might just denote the type of rubber it's made from. Does look completely different than original though.
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Old July 3rd, 2020, 11:23 AM   #30
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Interesting...

NBR-PVC is nitrile rubber, good for solvents, oils and gasoline.

Not sure about other number.

Interesting... I wonder if that O-ring can be used between tank and cap on those aftermarket caps.

Last futzed with by DannoXYZ; July 4th, 2020 at 01:51 PM.
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