Leaving again!

[sharky nrk]

^^ what a great buy. Look forward to you getting the bike back up and going.

[jkv45]

Definitely worth a shot for that price!

Let us know how it's going when you start on it.

[Jono]

Thanks for the reassurance! I'll definitely keep this thread informed on my progress.

[Finesse]

congrats!! hope everything goes smoothly! keep us informed

[Jono]

The 'new' engine arrived at work today! Looks clean. And there is enough broken bolt thread sticking out of the cyclinder head to weld on nuts. Soooo, after work I'm hoping to get those broken bolts out. Wish me luck!

Will post pictures and update tonight or tomorrow.

[Jono]

Pic Heavy... Here it is!


Pretty clean...


Lets get to welding!


Daymnnn, that didn't work. And now we lost some of the bolt length.


Lets heat the crap out of this nut and bolt before we try this again.


Welded up! Time to let it cool a bit.


Got the left bolt out. It wasn't easy. But we weren't so lucky on the right side. And now there isn't enough exposed thread to try again.


Time to drill!


Helicoil to the rescue!


My friend decided it would be best to do the same to the left side to although we could have left it alone. But with these helicoils in, and a little bit of antiseize on new header bolts, this shouldn't happen again.


Next up! Making sure this thing can go through all the gears. Then I'll check the valve clearances with the motor out. Getting closer!

[jkv45]

Glad to see you got it! That engine does look pretty good!

I think your idea of welding the nut on the stud was a good one, but I would have let it cool, then heated the area around the stud - but not the stud itself. Heating the area around the stud would soften any thread-locker and also slightly expand the metal around the stud. Not heating the stud would let it remain as small as possible.

Then slowly and carefully work both loosening and tightening (starting with loosening), just a small amount at a time, back and forth, until you can feel it loosen-up.

[Jono]

Originally Posted by jkv45

Glad to see you got it! That engine does look pretty good!

I think your idea of welding the nut on the stud was a good one, but I would have let it cool, then heated the area around the stud - but not the stud itself. Heating the area around the stud would soften any thread-locker and also slightly expand the metal around the stud. Not heating the stud would let it remain as small as possible.

Then slowly and carefully work both loosening and tightening (starting with loosening), just a small amount at a time, back and forth, until you can feel it loosen-up.

I should have been more descriptive with my post I think, but it was late and I was tired.

What you described is exactly what we did. We heated up the area around the bolt quite well. You can see in the pic we were not just heating up the bolt and nut. But we did that as well in hopes of have the two metals a consistent temp. We also used A LOT of PB Blaster which definitely helped work the stuck bolt out.

Like you mentioned, we went back and forth loosing and tightening when working the studs out. It worked great on that one side. I think there just wasn't enough contact between the nut and the broken stud on the other side.

But it's done now.

[jkv45]

Originally Posted by Jono

I should have been more descriptive with my post I think, but it was late and I was tired.

What you described is exactly what we did. We heated up the area around the bolt quite well. You can see in the pic we were not just heating up the bolt and nut.But we did that as well in hopes of have the two metals a consistent temp. We also used A LOT of PB Blaster which definitely helped work the stuck bolt out.

What I was suggesting did the opposite, but I'm glad you got it sorted out.

[Jono]

I am able to shift it through all 6 gears!!! So I measured the clearances today.

Front:
----EX----
.009"---.009"<--- I could actually tightly, squeeze in a .010" feeler on both
------------
.006"---.005"
----IN----


Rear:
----IN----
.005"---.005"
------------
.009"---.009"<--- Feeler was somewhat tight on both
----EX----

Specs are: .004"-.008" Intake, .008"-.012" Exhaust

Now they are all in spec, but on the tighter side of things. So I think I am going to change that and make them be on the loose side so that I won't have to adjust them for a while.

[Finesse]

yaaaaay!!!! progress!!!

what are you going to do with the old motor?

[Jono]

Originally Posted by Finesse

yaaaaay!!!! progress!!!

what are you going to do with the old motor?

Yup!!!!

And I don't know yet. I'll have a better idea once I find out if this new engine actually works or not. Haha.

If it does, and everything works great, I'll probably rebuild the old motor over time.

[Finesse]

I cant tell you how refreshing it is to see someone's bike break majorly and see them actually decide to fix it and then actually DO IT. most other people Ive seen this happen to say F it, I'll just get a new bike.

[dcj13]

Originally Posted by Finesse

What are you going to do with the old motor?

Boat anchor? Weird art project? Weight to hold corner of tarp down?

[Jono]

@Finesse

Thanks! I like to think I am a man of my word. And I really do like the SV650 so I want to get it working again, and better than it ever has.

[Finesse]

I admire you for rolling up your sleeves and taking on the task!! it is an awesome bike, i'm sure you'll really enjoy it when you get it all fired up and ready to go

[sharky nrk]

Smart move adjusting the valves while its out and on the bench lol. Keep it up.

[Finesse]

how goes it?

[Jono]

Originally Posted by Finesse

how goes it?

It goes good! ;-)

I'll hopefully write more soon. Been busy!

But new engine is now in the bike and it runs and shifts great! So far. Haha

[Jono]

The heart transplant was a success!

Spent a whole day getting the new engine in last weekend. Like usual, it was a lot more work putting it all back together than it was taking it apart. But I did it.

So the new engine came with a front sprocket that had more teeth on it than my old engine had so that caused an issue. My chain wasn't long enough so that countershaft sprocket had to go bye-bye. In order to do that the engine had to first be mounted in the frame so that I could get that nut off. Since the chain was unable to wrap around the rear sprocket I had to zip tie the chain to it. The chain kept slipping off before I could break the nut loose so I had to prevent that from happening.



With a breaker bar shoved through the rear wheel and the chain ziptied on, I got that nut off. And then slipped my old sprocket on.



After that it was time to put everything back together. I didn't take any pictures because I was too busy. But I did it. I filled it up with oil and coolant and now it was ready to start up!

And guess what! It wouldn't fire up. Starter was turning the motor but it just would fire.

I tried cranking it over multiple times to no avail. So now it was time to diagnose. Fuel, Air, Spark, Compression. I heard the fuel pump kick on, so that was out of the question. The gas had been sitting in the tank since October but I did add stabilizer so that shouldn't be it. The throttle bodies were off of my old engine and I know they work great. Time to remove the gas tank and airbox.

I double checked all the connections near the airbox, throttle bodies, and such. All looked good. Time for spark. Turns out I wasn't getting a spark from either the front or rear cylinders. That's weird. The coil packs both worked fine a couple of months ago and the chances of them both going out at the same time is highly unlikely. Check all the fuses and they were fine.

I could feel that the engine had compression so that's out.

What was causing this! I had a friend come over and he mentioned that there is a sensor somewhere near the crank that tells the bike when to fire. Soooo I back tracked all the wires coming out of the crankcase and that led me to the rear of the bike. There it was. One little two wire connection that was unplugged. This is one of the first connectors I hooked up that morning but it somehow came undone when I shoved the connecters back up under the rear panel.

Moment of truth. Turn the key and press the starter button.



Boom, it started right up. Didn't sound all that great at first but it was running. After it started to warm up some the engine started to sound right. Then the old oil and crap started to burn off of the engine that had been sitting for who knows how long.

It runs!


I've only rode it for 2 miles the other day but she runs just like I remember. Pulls hard and sounds even better.

There are a few little things that I need to do but should be able to knock them out this weekend. Hoping it's warm enough on Saturday to give this engine a good test ride.


*Also, I didn't adjust the valves on the motor for a few reasons, But the main one being that, they were in spec, why bother. Haha. I wasn't even sure if this engine would run at the time. And I'm good for at least another 15k miles. Hope to have my old engine rebuilt in that time. But we shall see.

[alex.s]

any left-over parts laying around?

[Jono]

Originally Posted by alex.s

any left-over parts laying around?

Only an entire 03 SV650 engine with a broken transmission. But it's all mine! I would really like to rebuild it just to say that I've rebuilt an engine. Plus a spare is always nice to have! Should cost me like $200ish to put it all back together.

[Finesse]

^that's awesome. congrats on your major success!!!!! I didn't know about that connector.

you didn't try to get the nut off by putting the motor in gear? if you do that, the front sprocket won't turn and you can usually break the nut loose.

[Jono]

Originally Posted by Finesse

^that's awesome. congrats on your major success!!!!! I didn't know about that connector.

you didn't try to get the nut off by putting the motor in gear? if you do that, the front sprocket won't turn and you can usually break the nut loose.

Thank you!

I didn't want to put that much pressure on the transmission. Might be silly but didn't want to hurt anything. I'd rather leave it in neutral and let the chain take the abuse.

[Finesse]

that's a good call. I like your creative solution

[jkv45]

Depending on how much highway riding you do, you might want to try the bigger front sprocket.

I went with the bigger front sprocket to smooth the highway cruising. It drops revs about 500 rpms, and keeps the engine in a smoother spot about 65 mph and above.

Around town it's not an issue, as the SV's torque pulls it without any problem.

Torque peaks about 7000 rpms and HP about 9000 - so there's not much need to rev the snot out of it.

[Jono]

Yeah when this chain wears out I'll be changing the gearing as well. I'd rather have lower revs on the interstate, so this big rear sprocket needs to go.

This may be sooner than later cause I think I abused my chain quite a bit removing and installing an engine. It had to flex sideways a lot in order to get it to go around the countershaft rod.

[sharky nrk]

Glad to hear you got it running and can get back out and enjoy her!!!

[Roark]

Good stuff, man..

Soon you won't need the KLX and you can give it to me, yeah!?

[Jono]

Originally Posted by Roark

Good stuff, man..

Soon you won't need the KLX and you can give it to me, yeah!?

Haha, keep dreaming!

That thing is staying with me till it dies. Hope to eventually get a big bore kit for it. Braap braap!

[choneofakind]

Originally Posted by Jono

Only an entire 03 SV650 engine with a broken transmission. But it's all mine! I would really like to rebuild it just to say that I've rebuilt an engine. Plus a spare is always nice to have! Should cost me like $200ish to put it all back together.

Lol, weren't you one of the ones telling me not to rebuild mine because it was unnecessary work? Ijs.

Besides, look up the price of bearings, cam chain, etc. It gets really pricey, really fast.


Glad you got it running!!!!! What's with all the zip ties?

[choneofakind]

Also, the tranny is meant for that. You wouldn't even have abused it....

[Jono]

Originally Posted by choneofakind

Lol, weren't you one of the ones telling me not to rebuild mine because it was unnecessary work? Ijs.

Besides, look up the price of bearings, cam chain, etc. It gets really pricey, really fast.


Glad you got it running!!!!! What's with all the zip ties?

Hahahahahaha! Yup.

I wouldn't replace any of the bearings and the cam chains are still good. Don't know why I replace stuff that still works fine. I just need a used or new 6th driven gear. Some circlips and a gasket set.

Chain wouldn't fit around rear sprocket because the front sprocket had more teeth. To break that front sprocket nut loose, I left the bike in neutral and put a breaker bar through the wheel. Got the chain wrapped around as many teeth as possible and zipped tied it to the rear sprocket. The first two attempts I tried without zip ties and the chain popped off the rear sprocket before the nut broke loose. Solution zip ties. Worked great.

[Jono]

Originally Posted by choneofakind

Also, the tranny is meant for that. You wouldn't even have abused it....

Wouldn't it turn the engine over before the nut broke loose?

[choneofakind]

But how do you know the bearings are good? Oil tests and micrometers or just assumptions? The perfectionist in me says that as soon as you plan to split the case, you should budget for the replaceable parts inside to account for the worst case. Also, pairing a used 6th gear with your other set is a no no. The teeth of all the gears wear together. Know how you always change chain and sprockets as a set? Same thoughts here for me: all or nothing.


Nope, just put it in a higher gear so it takes more torque to turn the engine from your input on the countershaft. The gear ratio will make it really hard to turn the engine in a high gear. The other option is to just use the rear brake and/or the 2x4 method.

[Jono]

Originally Posted by choneofakind

But how do you know the bearings are good? Oil tests and micrometers or just assumptions? The perfectionist in me says that as soon as you plan to split the case, you should budget for the replaceable parts inside to account for the worst case. Also, pairing a used 6th gear with your other set is a no no. The teeth of all the gears wear together. Know how you always change chain and sprockets as a set? Same thoughts here for me: all or nothing.


Nope, just put it in a higher gear so it takes more torque to turn the engine from your input on the countershaft. The gear ratio will make it really hard to turn the engine in a high gear. The other option is to just use the rear brake and/or the 2x4 method.

Just guessing. Don't see those bearings failing with only 26k miles. I know that means nothing but I'd rebuild it on the cheap. And I would ideally like to find a complete used transmission. Need to look for deals.

Everywhere I read says put the bike in neutral. So I think I'll stick to doing that. Transmission problems are no fun, I'm not gonna risk it. I hear using an impact wrench makes this a pretty easy task. I really need to invest in one.

[jkv45]

Originally Posted by Jono

Just guessing. Don't see those bearings failing with only 26k miles. I know that means nothing but I'd rebuild it on the cheap. And I would ideally like to find a complete used transmission. Need to look for deals.

Everywhere I read says put the bike in neutral. So I think I'll stick to doing that. Transmission problems are no fun, I'm not gonna risk it. I hear using an impact wrench makes this a pretty easy task. I really need to invest in one.

You need a good sized 1/2" drive impact and plenty of air, but it is a lot easier than doing it by hand.

I think the way you did it might be the safest. I would use a piece of wood (instead of a breaker bar) through the swingarm/wheel though.

[Jono]

@jkv45 I like to think so. And yeah, electric impacts are not all that useful for projects like this. I need to start saving for a decent sized air compressor that can work with an air impact wrench.

[Jono]

@jkv45 I like to think so. And yeah, electric impacts are not all that useful for projects like this. I need to start saving for a decent sized air compressor that can work with an air impact wrench.

[choneofakind]

So you're going to put it back together and sell it? Or keep it as a spare?

Definitely swing for a set of gears if you can. You likely should be okay to go with just the sixth gear because the wear on the existing 1-5 is minimal. But in perfect circumstances you'd want a match set. I know where you're coming from with cost and effort bs outcome. But budget for worst case and know what you have the potential to need to replace. Also, you're likely right about the bearings; despite my perfectionist preparation, I was pleasantly surprised to see that my oil samples didn't show signs of bearing problems with 22,000 miles and I was able to keep my work on the top end of the engine.


Honestly, electric impacts aren't bad as long as you get a nice one. The Crap-on stuff isn't bad. I use those at work when air isn't available. They just need batteries, that's all.