August 28th, 2015, 05:05 PM | #1 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: Dre
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No Front Brake Pressure
After racing last weekend and almost running off the track because of brake fade, I decided to change my fluid and brake line. I still had the rubber line. Went with Galfer since that what I purchased for my old 250. Put it on with no problem. Fluid went in with no problem. Bled brakes, with the only issue being that the lever goes all the way back to the grip. Bled the brake at least 4 times with the same result. I used the way outlined in the manual and a vacuum kit to no avail. Very frustrated since I've changed lines successfully at least 3 times.
I haven't tried the zip tie on the lever overnight yet. But I would think that there would be more pressure in the line. Any help you can give would be appreciated. |
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August 28th, 2015, 05:54 PM | #2 |
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Banjo bolt snug?
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August 28th, 2015, 06:15 PM | #3 | |
in your machine
Name: Scott
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Sounds like maybe your caliper,
Quote:
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1 out of 1 members found this post helpful. |
August 28th, 2015, 07:26 PM | #4 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: Dre
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I'm just going to disassemble everything. Banjos were tight. And the pistons moved pretty easily and evenly. Very strange that all was good prior to the brake line swap. I may just install the old brake line to see what happens. If it works, then it's time to call Galfer.
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August 28th, 2015, 07:44 PM | #5 |
Private Joker
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you double checked the MC banjo too right?
my brake pressure is perfect but I've run into caliper issues myself that I'll be finally fixing after the race on sunday (it works, it's just not ideal and you barely brake on lightning afaik) my issue may actually be jumping into new pads too quickly rather than easing them in, my natural braking style could be hurting more than it's helping as you pointed out at the last VIR N round
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August 31st, 2015, 05:29 PM | #6 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: Dre
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Took apart the caliper and it was clean as a whistle. I just regreased the right slide since it was a little dry. The pistons moved smoothly and had no tarnish. I took off the stainless line, reconnected the stock line, and flushed it twice. Now the brake pressure is where it was before, which wasn't great but better than with the stainless line. With the Galfer, the pads grabbed at the grip. With the stock line, it grabs at a little more than half pull, which is awful BTW. But, I can work with it.
Thinking back, both of the 250s I had had horrible braking pressure. I got around it by using aftermarket levers and extending the out as far as possible. I'm going to order a caliper rebuild kit and a master cylinder rebuild kit. Hopefully they will fix whatever the issue is. I would love to just change MC, but my race org doesn't allow it, yet... Last futzed with by gogoKawi; August 31st, 2015 at 07:28 PM. |
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August 31st, 2015, 05:31 PM | #7 |
Private Joker
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I want them to, it's a simple switch and I firmly believe that it is the biggest thing holding back our brakes from feeling like they should
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August 31st, 2015, 08:01 PM | #8 | |
in your machine
Name: Scott
Location: Summer Shade, Ky.
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Quote:
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August 31st, 2015, 09:08 PM | #9 |
Private Joker
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not legal with our race org rules
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August 31st, 2015, 10:31 PM | #10 |
in your machine
Name: Scott
Location: Summer Shade, Ky.
Join Date: Oct 2014 Motorcycle(s): 98 Ninja 250/F12 aka ZX-2R "SERENITY", 91 Ninja 500/A5 aka ZX-5R "Phoenix", 84 Honda GL1200A "SIREN" Posts: A lot.
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Really?, its very hard to tell them apart, as the difference is a slightly bigger bore on the MC piston.
I remember reading about it somewhere, but can't seem to find it, anybody?? Note: I forgot this isn't a PreGen, so just forget what I've been posting LOL I really need need to pay attention where I'm at.
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October 10th, 2015, 01:05 AM | #11 |
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Name: fernando
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i have the same problem
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October 10th, 2015, 01:19 AM | #12 |
in your machine
Name: Scott
Location: Summer Shade, Ky.
Join Date: Oct 2014 Motorcycle(s): 98 Ninja 250/F12 aka ZX-2R "SERENITY", 91 Ninja 500/A5 aka ZX-5R "Phoenix", 84 Honda GL1200A "SIREN" Posts: A lot.
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Have you serviced your calipers? See my write-up above
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October 10th, 2015, 01:44 AM | #13 |
Freedom for Germany
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The reason is the stainless brake line, since it is not that easy to bleed.
In most cases those lines keep the air bubbles inside and often it will help to bleed the brake in the opposite direction, from the caliper back to the mc. A big syringe from the hospital with a hose on it will help. Also what should be done is to tap (is this the right word?) the stainless line with a lightweight screwdriver to loosen the bubbles and make them go out. Another thing which helps in most cases is to push the pistons in the caliper full way back, maybe then tighten it to not come out while bleeding. Stainless brake lines are good but not so easy to bleed. And if you would spend some money then here is the best solution http://www.stahlbus-us.com/index.php...-bleeder-valve |
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