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Old May 14th, 2016, 09:05 AM   #81
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Well a good clean did not fix this, so it might be the compression, as it down to 125-130psi Looks like the Big Bore will get done before the winter !
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Old May 20th, 2016, 04:10 PM   #82
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Dudes here is video of the inside of my carb.
Please check out

Link to original page on YouTube.
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Old May 20th, 2016, 04:13 PM   #83
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This is the left side of carburetor







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Old May 20th, 2016, 04:26 PM   #84
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Do have pictures of the main jets? Idle jets? Emulation tubes?

Not for nothing but you can't see inside the fuel circuits.
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Old May 20th, 2016, 04:33 PM   #85
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I still have my carburetor out I'll take HD pictures of everything, haven't ordered my parts yet but plan on ordering today
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Old May 20th, 2016, 04:37 PM   #86
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The quality on the video is too low to actually see any detail.

If you haven't taken the pilot screw O-ring out, you haven't actually verified that it's good and you haven't completely cleaned the pilot passage.

Likewise, the float valve's tip needs to be free of any sort of deformation. If it doesn't match up to the valve opening correctly, it won't make a proper seal.

The rubber parts are consumables. They break down over time and are intended to be replaced. As I said, if one part is bad, it's a good indication the others are too, and you already determined the bowl O-ring was bad.

If you want to fully fix this problem, you need to do 100% of the necessary work. If you can't state without a doubt that something is in good condition, it needs to be replaced. If you haven't verified proper flow through the passageways, you're not done. If you don't check everything, you're going to still have bad parts in your carbs.

In theory, cleaning a carb is easy. You just take it apart and clean all the parts and passageways and make sure nothing is too used-up. In reality, most people don't actually take the time to get into all the passageways, and skip parts because they don't think it's important (even though they don't know what the part is or how it affects operation of the carb).
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Old May 20th, 2016, 04:37 PM   #87
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From the looks of the photos it looks like the pilot jets haven't been touched, taken out, as well as the emulation tubes/jet holders. These are critical due to the tiny holes in the sides of the tubes are all clear.

See photo below
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File Type: jpg Jim_carb_2_1.jpg (11.5 KB, 1 views)
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Old May 20th, 2016, 05:41 PM   #88
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Indeed!

Judging from the corrosion on the brass main jet and the needle seat, those carbs need a thorough cleaning, IE dip or soda blast. Plus all new parts like needle, gasket, and mixture screw o-ring, etc. Should probably consider a new needle seat as well unless you soda blast them clean. Getting down inside is a bit tricky.
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Old May 20th, 2016, 09:25 PM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RacinNinja View Post
Indeed!

Judging from the corrosion on the brass main jet and the needle seat, those carbs need a thorough cleaning, IE dip or soda blast. Plus all new parts like needle, gasket, and mixture screw o-ring, etc. Should probably consider a new needle seat as well unless you soda blast them clean. Getting down inside is a bit tricky.
hellooooo out there OP....??????

Ongoing almost 30 days. Its riding season...serious PRO equipment, some parts and know-how are called for to wrap these carbs up in short order.
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Old May 21st, 2016, 07:43 AM   #90
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I Don't have Professional money @ducatiman
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Old May 21st, 2016, 07:48 AM   #91
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Not nearly as much as you think
Will shoot a pm later
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Old May 21st, 2016, 07:54 AM   #92
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Hey is the rubber o-ring in the idle mixture screw suppose to be hard to get out? or is their some intergrated rubber in it and I'm just picking at that?
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Old May 21st, 2016, 08:33 AM   #93
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I'm replacing all the rubber that causes leakage then moving on with this.
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Old May 21st, 2016, 08:40 AM   #94
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Hey is the rubber o-ring in the idle mixture screw suppose to be hard to get out? or is their some intergrated rubber in it and I'm just picking at that?
It's an O-ring on the pilot screw. It's not supposed to be stuck in the carb at all.

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Old May 21st, 2016, 08:50 AM   #95
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Mine is stuck on both sides or it not their but I'm see black rubber in their.

Its giving me a really hard time im having trouble getting it out.
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Old May 21st, 2016, 10:07 AM   #96
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in reality, they DO get compressed, flattened and stuck.

Spencer...use a straight "probe" to poke it, turn it on its side. Then a guitar string cut-off with a hook bent on the end to fish it out.

I trust you have replacements? ALL the rubber parts should be automatically replaced.

Float bowl and pilot screw orings, float valves. Don't over analyze, simply replace.

PM comin' to ya'.
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Old May 21st, 2016, 12:39 PM   #97
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I can't afford right now but I will keep that in mine.

I got the o rings out.

I really can't afford to replace the float needle/valve

They seem in alright condition here are some pictures
For y'all to see.
They are too expensive

One ring is sligtly bent hook comes off but still hooks on to needle photo below







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Old May 21st, 2016, 12:47 PM   #98
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If your needles look like that, the internal passages in the carb look the same. A small piece of wire won't clean them.

The carb bodies need to be dipped, ultra sonic'd or soda blasted.

One of those needles is not OK. It has a groove around the rubber tip where it seats. Should be replaced.

Seriously, just save up a bit and do this right so you don't have to do it again.
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Old May 21st, 2016, 12:50 PM   #99
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Speaking from personal experience, I have taken a carb that looks like this:









And made it work again. It takes time and money BUT, if you do it right the first time, they work great.







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Old May 21st, 2016, 01:08 PM   #100
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Okay I'm going to buy a carb rebuild kit, carb cleaner and I already got a air compressor.

When I buy a carburetor rebuild kit does it come with two of everything?

Or do I have to buy to two separate kits?
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Old May 21st, 2016, 01:18 PM   #101
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OMG!!! Which part of PM @ducatiman don't you understand, he sells complete kits for way cheaper than you can buy, plus they come with stainless steel screws to replace the cheap Phillips heads
@RacinNinja you might want to expand on that, clearly those took more than some carb cleaner and a toothbrush
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Old May 21st, 2016, 01:21 PM   #102
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OMG!!! Which part of PM @ducatiman don't you understand, he sells complete kits for way cheaper than you can buy, plus they come with stainless steel screws to replace the cheap Phillips heads
@RacinNinja you might want to expand on that, clearly those took more than some carb cleaner and a toothbrush
Only the things I have been saying in this thread.

Carb dip, compressed air, spray carb cleaner, patience. New rubber/paper gasket parts all around!

Prime example of what can be done with the things I mentioned.
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Old May 21st, 2016, 01:27 PM   #103
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Originally Posted by RacinNinja View Post
Only the things I have been saying in this thread.

Carb dip, compressed air, spray carb cleaner, patience. New rubber/paper gasket parts all around!

Prime example of what can be done with the things I mentioned.

I just wanted you the clear, so others know what exactly was done, the whole carbs are easy mentality is misleading, they are not, it's a lost skill thanks to injection.
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Old May 21st, 2016, 01:43 PM   #104
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Does ducatiman have multiple accounts or is this separate people. Hmmm?
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Old May 21st, 2016, 02:20 PM   #105
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Does ducatiman have multiple accounts or is this separate people. Hmmm?
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/member.php?u=1734
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Old May 21st, 2016, 02:35 PM   #106
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I just wanted you the clear, so others know what exactly was done, the whole carbs are easy mentality is misleading, they are not, it's a lost skill thanks to injection.
No problem!
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Old May 21st, 2016, 02:43 PM   #107
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Does ducatiman have multiple accounts or is this separate people. Hmmm?
I see.

Instead of thinking "Hmmmm...three different people saying the same thing, maybe I should listen" you think "Hmmm...Ducatiman has multiple accounts and just wants to sell me something"?



Buy his complete rebuild kit.

Completely disassemble your carbs and dip them for a day. Blow out with compressed air and carb cleaner. That green corrosion on your main jet and the condition of the float needles tells us everything we need to know.

Reassemble with all new rubber parts.

You've already been at this for a month. Try something different.
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Old May 21st, 2016, 02:52 PM   #108
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Lol
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Old May 21st, 2016, 03:23 PM   #109
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Spencer-

click the Custom Carb Services in my signature, it'll take you to my thread in the marketplace section in this forum.

Scroll down...there is a picture of the kit and pricing. The $28 covers shipping AND your float valves, orings, float bowl and pilot orings, enough screws for the float bowls and diaphragm covers. ALL for BOTH carbs! Highly affordable!

There is a more detailed, expensive kit for splitting the carbs, but this should do you fine.
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Old May 22nd, 2016, 06:25 AM   #110
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going forward...Spencer has splurged for a carb kit. Orings, screws, float valves.

Info I must make public...simply replacing the parts, in itself, doesn't make the carbs magically run. The work you do while they are apart (using your chosen methods) are the key. The parts then add reliability and aid assembly.

So far you have been stuck every step of the way...how do you remove oring here, there, stripped screw, leaking..

I, for one, am NOT offering step by step Carb 101 lessons. Furthermore, I do not now OWN your carburetors, motorcycle and all attached.

Urge you, get a jump on the project...while awaiting parts...buy the dip, strip ALL the internals and dip the bodies. Keep everything in order in a tray.

Warning...you MUST remove the diaphragms...(this is NOT optional) no chemicals on the rubber! Soap and warm water would be ok, soak and dry.

I'd urge, if after any further failures...you employ my services. In about 4 hours, I'd have them set, ready to go.

We've all been very patient and helpful. I know this is not over by a longshot.
In the meantime... please do your homework.
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Old May 22nd, 2016, 06:37 AM   #111
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Hey know every future ninjetter will know what to do and what places to visit.

Plus you got some advertisement Lol
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Old May 22nd, 2016, 06:40 AM   #112
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focus on YOUR carbs, dammit....not future posters and my (non-existant) marketing skills!

Turn this...into this...poof!
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Old May 22nd, 2016, 07:31 AM   #113
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I'm just using carb cleaner and compressed air so I don't have to split my carburetor apart.
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Old May 28th, 2016, 09:28 AM   #114
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@ducatiman,Thank you for being legitimate and sending me my items.
Also thanks for the stickers !

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Old May 28th, 2016, 03:39 PM   #115
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Thank YOU Mr Spencer.

I like to think I've earned a good reputation on here and another EX forum by always being honest in my dealings.

Underhanded business practices are not at all in my nature...and always (eventually) bite those that choose the "fast buck".

Good luck with your repairs.
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Old June 5th, 2016, 04:48 PM   #116
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Sorry about the late response guys here's is the update.

Bike is running great with No leaks!

The Problem was sticking float Needles!

It's also idling correctly.

Hopefully this helps the people in the future that's having these issues. Thanks Everyone!
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Old June 5th, 2016, 04:54 PM   #117
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Hurray for you, Spencer.

The carb kit parts are common parts..consumables...periodically must be renewed in order to aid the process of restoring carb adjustments..along with running... reliably.

Grats.
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Old June 5th, 2016, 05:18 PM   #118
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Well done, and just under 2 months, now get out and put some miles on that Ninjette.
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Old June 5th, 2016, 05:24 PM   #119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spencerrides View Post
..........The Problem was sticking float Needles!

......Thanks Everyone!
Quote:
Originally Posted by ducatiman View Post
.......
fuel delivery problem...starvation causing lean condition?......
@ducatiman nailed it from the beginning !!!

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Old July 1st, 2016, 08:42 PM   #120
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