March 9th, 2015, 07:17 PM | #1 |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: Caleb
Location: Oregon
Join Date: Mar 2015 Motorcycle(s): 2006 Kawaski Ninja EX250-F Posts: 3
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2006 Ninja EX250-F won't start need help!
Hey guys I have a 2006 Ninja ex250-f and I'm having problems getting it to start. Whenever I engage the clucth and press the starter button to turn the bike on all I get is a clicking noise coming from my starter solenoid-relay.
This is my first bike and I've tried everything I could think of to repair it myself like change the battery (multiple times), check the fuses, made sure all my connections were tight, check the spark plug, checked my wires, I've tried jumping it, and had my starter motor checked by local shop to see if it's good ( it is), and even replaced my old starter solenoid relay with a brand new one. So I've run out of ideas and it's been months since I could ride so was hoping anyone with more experience with these bikes or has had this problem before could help me out. Please and thank you guys. |
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March 9th, 2015, 07:33 PM | #2 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Steve
Location: Spartanburg, SC
Join Date: Nov 2014 Motorcycle(s): EX250, Suzuki Savage, 76 Goldwing restoration project, 71 CB350, 73 Yamaha GT1, Posts: 73
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Sounds ike about all you have left is the wiring.
Make sure the batt is charged fully and jump from the + to the big wire on the starter motor. This bypasses all of the electricals except the ground on the bike. The starter should start cranking over. Make sure it is in neutral before doing this. If this works, you've got a wiring problem between the battery and the starter or a solenoid problem. |
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March 9th, 2015, 07:33 PM | #3 |
Rev Limiter
Name: Jay
Location: WI
Join Date: Jul 2013 Motorcycle(s): '06 SV650n, '00 Derbi GPR, '64 CA77 Dream 305, '70 CL450 Scrambler, numerous dirt bikes Posts: A lot.
MOTM - Jun '18, Oct '16
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If the battery is good (check it again - should be 12.7V before and at least 11V while cranking), and the starter spins fine when you put power directly to it (use a known good battery and jumper cables), the issue lies between the two.
You replaced the starter solenoid - or the relay? If the relay is bad it will reduce the voltage to the starter - and get hot while cranking. Check all of the connections, wires, and grounds. Use a multi-meter to check the resistance from one point to another. EDIT: Looks like sh123469 beat me to it |
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March 9th, 2015, 07:36 PM | #4 |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: Caleb
Location: Oregon
Join Date: Mar 2015 Motorcycle(s): 2006 Kawaski Ninja EX250-F Posts: 3
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the starter solenoid and the battery is running like it should i'm getting power just nothing happens when try to start aside from a clicking sound everytime i press the stater button
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March 9th, 2015, 07:39 PM | #5 |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: Caleb
Location: Oregon
Join Date: Mar 2015 Motorcycle(s): 2006 Kawaski Ninja EX250-F Posts: 3
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so try to jump it by placing my positive lead on my positive terminal and the negative directly on the starter motor?
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March 9th, 2015, 07:39 PM | #6 |
Rev Limiter
Name: Jay
Location: WI
Join Date: Jul 2013 Motorcycle(s): '06 SV650n, '00 Derbi GPR, '64 CA77 Dream 305, '70 CL450 Scrambler, numerous dirt bikes Posts: A lot.
MOTM - Jun '18, Oct '16
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March 9th, 2015, 08:58 PM | #7 |
in your machine
Name: Scott
Location: Summer Shade, Ky.
Join Date: Oct 2014 Motorcycle(s): 98 Ninja 250/F12 aka ZX-2R "SERENITY", 91 Ninja 500/A5 aka ZX-5R "Phoenix", 84 Honda GL1200A "SIREN" Posts: A lot.
Blog Entries: 25
MOTM - Jun '17, May '16, Mar '15
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Odds are it either that battery, or solenoid.
To bypass the solenoid, just take a screwdriver and touch it across the solenoid top two posts, this will bypass the solenoid, but remember just touch it long enough to verify, if the starter motor turns nice and strong, bike cranks, etc... Then your solenoid is bad, replace it. Please make sure the battery is properly charged, with a trickle charger/maintenance charger. Once it's charged, take it to an automotive place and have it load tested, forget the voltage, etc... Don't mean nothing, is the battery a wet cell? Sealed? If it's a wet cell and not sealed the sure fire way to test it is the purchase a battery hydrometer. Battery Testing can be done in more than one way. The most accurate method is measurement of specific gravity and battery voltage. To measure specific gravity buy a temperature compensating hydrometer, to measure voltage use a digital D.C. Voltmeter. A quality load tester may be a good purchase if you need to test sealed batteries. For any of these methods, you must first fully charge the battery and then remove the surface charge. If the battery has been sitting at least several hours (I prefer at least 12 hours) you may begin testing. To remove surface charge the battery must be discharged for several minutes. Using a headlight (high beam) will do the trick. After turning off the light you are ready to test the battery. State of Charge Specific Gravity Voltage 12V 6V 100% 1.265 12.7 6.3 75% 1.225 12.4 6.2 50% 1.190 12.2 6.1 25% 1.155 12.0 6.0 Discharged 1.120 11.9 6.0 Load testing is yet another way of testing a battery. Load test removes amps from a battery much like starting an engine would. A load tester can be purchased at most auto parts stores. Some battery companies label their battery with the amp load for testing. This number is usually 1/2 of the CCA rating. For instance, a 500CCA battery would load test at 250 amps for 15 seconds. A load test can only be performed if the battery is near or at full charge. The results of your testing should be as follows: Hydrometer readings should not vary more than .05 differences between cells. Digital Voltmeters should read as the voltage is shown in this document. The sealed AGM and Gel-Cell battery voltage (full charged) will be slightly higher in the 12.8 to 12.9 ranges. If you have voltage readings in the 10.5 volts range on a charged battery, that typically indicates a shorted cell. If you have a maintenance free wet cell, the only ways to test are voltmeter and load test. Any of the maintenance free type batteries that have a built in hydrometer(black/green window) will tell you the condition of 1 cell of 6. You may get a good reading from 1 cell but have a problem with other cells in the battery. When in doubt about battery testing, call the battery manufacturer. Many batteries sold today have a toll free number to call for help. You said you replaced the solenoid with a brand new one, so if jumping out the solenoid works, it could very well be the actual starter button itself, remove the right forward control, and verify that the switch itself is working properly, and the contacts are clean, and to verify that also jump the switch.
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violente et ignorantia ZX-2R BLOG Twitter and Instagram = Ghostt_Scott I'm not here to change your mind, just to inform. |
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March 10th, 2015, 06:51 PM | #8 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Steve
Location: Spartanburg, SC
Join Date: Nov 2014 Motorcycle(s): EX250, Suzuki Savage, 76 Goldwing restoration project, 71 CB350, 73 Yamaha GT1, Posts: 73
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Jump the + from the battery to the starter motor connection. Ground - to the frame if you even use it during the test.
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