Oil Plug/Pan Stripped?

[Nienu]

Hey All, been lurking for a few monthes and finally encountered a problem I cant solve. I have a 2004 250r with 12,000 miles (100 are mine) which I am loving, and decided to do my first oil change. I couldnt see the oil level through the glass; turns out the glass is just gummed inside as even after draining the oil I see no difference. In any case..

I am putting the drain plug back in. I have the original washer and one I bought new and both of them I can finger tighten up to the point of using my torque wrench and then its like the threads are stripped @ the top of the plug. I get about a 1/4 turn then I can finger tighten again.

Its frigging maddening.

So am I dealing with a stripped pan, or am I doing something stupid? Could I place a second washer on and just torque those down? What are my options.

Many thanks

[Motofool]

You are dealing with a stripped pan.

This is a possible solution:
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Changin...ver/drain_plug

This is the helicoid method:
http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39...il-method.html

Welcome to our site, Michael !!!

[Nienu]

Ugh.... UGGGH.. Seriously considering yelling @ the previous owner.. Got her cell.... Ok, that an interesting alternative, might work for me. I was reading somewhere else that another would be to change the plug for one a size larger. Anyone done that?

[baxtc1]

Helicoil is another option, you will reuse your original bolt if it is not damaged.

[Motofool]

See the other link that I just added.

Previous owner will tell you that it was perfect when he had it.

Remember that the sealing is against the flat surface of the crankcase, try not not to damage it or make a new thread that is not perpendicular to it.

[Nienu]

Is it possible that the bolt is partially stripped? I am trying to understand why it holds only to a certain point. It never falls out, it just wont get "tight". Doesn't the nature of the bolt and threads mean that if it can get hold on a few threads it can continue as far as you tighten it? Maybe my bolt needs to be replaced.

[Nienu]

So I pulled the bolt out to look again, its definitely fine. Time to start asking around to see what shops nearby will helicoil or tap a new one.

[Motofool]

It is the aluminum thread what always yields.

It is barely in shape to drive the bolt in but once some force is applied, the steel threads just jump back.

[alex.s]

use a helicoil

[infinitewhiskey]

In my case, JB welding the crap out of the old plug (plus safety wiring it) and putting on the new-gen oil plug assembly was about $40, where getting a shop to helicoil was upwards of $100, and retapping was the same.

Sticking on the new plug assembly is a simple bolt on, given you have a torque wrench. Plus you get to upgrade to a metal gasket for the oil screen. Annd you don't have the shop charge you for an oil change and parts plus labor for it, let alone the helicoil work.

[Nienu]

That is a dang good point whiskey. I just ordered up the parts, cost me 46 + shipping. Way better than the 150$ the local shops were telling me it would cost to do a helicoil. By the time the parts arrive my tank should be dry enough to just JB weld the screw in their and move on.

[infinitewhiskey]

Originally Posted by Nienu

That is a dang good point whiskey. I just ordered up the parts, cost me 46 + shipping. Way better than the 150$ the local shops were telling me it would cost to do a helicoil. By the time the parts arrive my tank should be dry enough to just JB weld the screw in their and move on.

Glad to help.