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Old December 28th, 2017, 07:16 PM   #1
Yannis
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1997 Kawasaki EL250D CVK30 Carburetor Help

G'day Blokes!

(Yes I did check the Jetting Database thread)

So I have disassembled, ultrasonically cleaned and rebuilt my CVK30 Carbs out of a '97 Eliminator (K&L Supply Rebuild Kit) due to it being dirty and having a stuck needle/overflow issue. Overflowing is fixed, however unfortunately I did not realize that each carb actually uses different sized main jets and jet needles.

As you've probably guessed by now, I failed to take note of which parts goes where. I couldn't find anything in the workshop or owners manuals so was hoping someone here might know?

I believe the jet sizes on my particular model are 85/87 and the needles are stamped with something like N53X. I would be interested to know the pilot screw settings as well, manual just specifies 1 + 3/4, however both mine were set to 2 + 1/2 when I pulled them apart.

Cheers!
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Old December 28th, 2017, 08:11 PM   #2
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I don't know this bike in question but typically if you have jetting different on the various cylinders, the richer jet would be in the cooler cylinder. Looking at the pictures of the bike, it would seem the left side is more air constricted than the right so I would believe the larger jet would be on the right. Maybe someone more familiar will pipe in for us.

**edited after a major mistype of warmer to cooler... Thank you choneofakind for correcting me.

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Old December 28th, 2017, 08:22 PM   #3
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the richer jet would be in the warmer cylinder.
Sure you're not backwards? Warmer air is less dense.
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Old December 28th, 2017, 09:08 PM   #4
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Okay that's interesting, so a bigger jet helps to keep that cylinder from running too hot. Well, the left side of the engine has the exhaust manifold running past it, so there's another clue that it might take the larger jet.
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Old December 28th, 2017, 09:14 PM   #5
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Sure you're not backwards? Warmer air is less dense.
You are correct sir! I thought it one way and typed another, thank you for picking up on that!!!
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Old December 31st, 2017, 04:58 PM   #6
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Edit: Whoops okay so I pulled them out & the bigger jet was in the left cylinder, so I'll swap them over and see how she goes.



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Old January 5th, 2018, 06:32 PM   #7
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So I swapped them over and put the larger jet in the right hand cylinder, which has resulted in the bike running terribly and it is difficult to start. It ran much better with the larger jet in left cylinder. Does this even make sense? I thought the main jets were only used while the throttle is wide open?
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Old January 5th, 2018, 06:37 PM   #8
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Quote:
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So I swapped them over and put the larger jet in the right hand cylinder, which has resulted in the bike running terribly and it is difficult to start. It ran much better with the larger jet in left cylinder. Does this even make sense? I thought the main jets were only used while the throttle is wide open?
I would think that most likely you have more trash from the gas tank working loose and clogging up the carbs. I mean, you could swap them back but I'd put money that there's more rusty, dirt and grim getting in the jets passages. The main jet primarily feeds fuel as the throttle gets wide open however fuel is pulling through the jet with the needle in it at all times which richens everything or leans everything accordingly.
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Old January 6th, 2018, 06:48 AM   #9
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@ducatiman ?
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Old January 6th, 2018, 04:28 PM   #10
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@teafour I see, good points. The tank is actually quite dirty despite rinsing it out several times with kerosene, I also replaced both in-tank filters and installed a cone shaped in-line filter hoping this would prevent any clogging of the carb, maybe the dirt is just too fine?

Any pro tips on cleaning the tank out real good? I feel like some kind of pump would probably help. Cheers for the replies
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Old January 6th, 2018, 04:35 PM   #11
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Problem is no matter what rotation position you have tank, there's always points lower than exit hole.

I've use a vacuum with large aquarium hose attachment (yay duct tape).

Have also used garden hose on full-blast with shaking tank at same time.

Final drying can be done with acetone as it dissolves both polar and non-polar compounds.
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Old January 6th, 2018, 06:06 PM   #12
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Diesel fuel and a handful of small nuts. Shake it.
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Old January 7th, 2018, 10:27 AM   #13
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Sintered metal filters are often too coarse to catch small particles. Pleated paper filters are a sure bet, but carry a spare, because if there's enough fine silty dirt, they can get clogged. There are some high quality sintered metal filters with micron ratings, but I can't give you a specific brand from memory.

I had a chunk of dirt get through a sintered metal filter on my DT100, and it was so big it stuck in the main jet.
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Old January 7th, 2018, 10:30 AM   #14
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His computer is frozen in solid ice at the moment.
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Old January 7th, 2018, 12:54 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yannis View Post
G'day Blokes!

(Yes I did check the Jetting Database thread)

So I have disassembled, ultrasonically cleaned and rebuilt my CVK30 Carbs out of a '97 Eliminator (K&L Supply Rebuild Kit) due to it being dirty and having a stuck needle/overflow issue. Overflowing is fixed, however unfortunately I did not realize that each carb actually uses different sized main jets and jet needles.

As you've probably guessed by now, I failed to take note of which parts goes where. I couldn't find anything in the workshop or owners manuals so was hoping someone here might know?

I believe the jet sizes on my particular model are 85/87 and the needles are stamped with something like N53X. I would be interested to know the pilot screw settings as well, manual just specifies 1 + 3/4, however both mine were set to 2 + 1/2 when I pulled them apart.

Cheers!
somebody been in those carbs....different mains? needles? incorrect

stock airbox/exhaust?
try 95 mains, N53x needles 35 pilots with around 2 turns on the pilot screws...both carbs...
float height 17mm...fuel level +- 1mm measured at the bowl/body joint


spark plug CH8A Possibly a sticker under the seat with plug GAP and valve clearance specs?

this should get you in the ballpark AFTER you've gotten your tank/fuel issue in order

Finally set the pilot screws, engine warm, each cylinder for highest idle and best throttle response.

As yours is a non-US model, some further research would be advised. Factory supplied jetting specs for YOUR country should be printed in either the actual factory service manual, or factory supplement. They may differ slightly, but I'm real close, if not dead on.

Historically, larger main jets were, in fact, used on the inner 2 cylinders in some 4 cylinder applications. In your case..unless contrary, factory documentation states otherwise...my 95 suggestion in both (documented from earlier USA models using same carbs ) should get you there.

Regardless...I suggest you do your required research for YOUR country/model/year, to confirm or correct my stated info.

And right you are...nasty cold here.
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Old January 7th, 2018, 05:26 PM   #16
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Yeah stock as a rock, I bought it from the original owner who used it for rider training. I've been calling around some Kawasaki service centres but they are usually pretty busy, one place did tell me that my particular year model bike (1997) did in fact come with staggered main jets from factory (88 & 85). The service manual I have does specify 95 however it is for the 250HS model while I have the last of the EL's - a 250D. They were made for a good 9 years from 1988 to 1997.

Anyway I will confirm the carb specs, flush the tank out good & post back my progress.

Thanks again for all the replies
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Old January 7th, 2018, 05:48 PM   #17
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From your original post..... "I couldn't find anything in the workshop or owners manuals"

^ Misleading...I thought you were referring to the actual, correct service manual for your bike which will confirm the factory *as supplied* sizes. Parts books will show *available optional* sizes.

If you don't have the correct service manual, perhaps the shop does? and can allow you a peek to put the issue to rest?

I'd not rely on someones memory or hearsay...could send you on a goose chase...much rather read the spec in print...undeniable.
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Old January 29th, 2018, 09:47 PM   #18
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All done!

Turns out the larger main jet (88) and shorter jet needle (N25WK) belong to the left hand carburetor since that cylinder runs hotter.

Running sweet with both pilot screws at 1 + 1/2 turns out.

Local radiator shop told me it would be pointless to flush the tank unless I am going to Red Kote it. Ended up just installing an inline fuel filter (Walbro 125-930-1) which I bought from my local lawnmower shop.

Been having a blast riding around on this thing

Thanks to all for your input
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Old January 29th, 2018, 11:04 PM   #19
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So I swapped them over and put the larger jet in the right hand cylinder, which has resulted in the bike running terribly and it is difficult to start. It ran much better with the larger jet in left cylinder. Does this even make sense? I thought the main jets were only used while the throttle is wide open?
A change in main jet affects your entire fuel distribution from about 1/4 throttle to full.

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