December 28th, 2017, 07:16 PM | #1 |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: Yannis
Location: Australia
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1997 Kawasaki EL250D CVK30 Carburetor Help
G'day Blokes!
(Yes I did check the Jetting Database thread) So I have disassembled, ultrasonically cleaned and rebuilt my CVK30 Carbs out of a '97 Eliminator (K&L Supply Rebuild Kit) due to it being dirty and having a stuck needle/overflow issue. Overflowing is fixed, however unfortunately I did not realize that each carb actually uses different sized main jets and jet needles. As you've probably guessed by now, I failed to take note of which parts goes where. I couldn't find anything in the workshop or owners manuals so was hoping someone here might know? I believe the jet sizes on my particular model are 85/87 and the needles are stamped with something like N53X. I would be interested to know the pilot screw settings as well, manual just specifies 1 + 3/4, however both mine were set to 2 + 1/2 when I pulled them apart. Cheers! |
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December 28th, 2017, 08:11 PM | #2 |
Corner Chaser
Name: Thomas
Location: Eustis, FL
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I don't know this bike in question but typically if you have jetting different on the various cylinders, the richer jet would be in the cooler cylinder. Looking at the pictures of the bike, it would seem the left side is more air constricted than the right so I would believe the larger jet would be on the right. Maybe someone more familiar will pipe in for us.
**edited after a major mistype of warmer to cooler... Thank you choneofakind for correcting me. Last futzed with by teafour; December 28th, 2017 at 09:14 PM. |
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December 28th, 2017, 08:22 PM | #3 |
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December 28th, 2017, 09:08 PM | #4 |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: Yannis
Location: Australia
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Okay that's interesting, so a bigger jet helps to keep that cylinder from running too hot. Well, the left side of the engine has the exhaust manifold running past it, so there's another clue that it might take the larger jet.
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December 28th, 2017, 09:14 PM | #5 |
Corner Chaser
Name: Thomas
Location: Eustis, FL
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1 out of 1 members found this post helpful. |
December 31st, 2017, 04:58 PM | #6 |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: Yannis
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Edit: Whoops okay so I pulled them out & the bigger jet was in the left cylinder, so I'll swap them over and see how she goes.
Last futzed with by Yannis; December 31st, 2017 at 11:31 PM. |
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January 5th, 2018, 06:32 PM | #7 |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: Yannis
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So I swapped them over and put the larger jet in the right hand cylinder, which has resulted in the bike running terribly and it is difficult to start. It ran much better with the larger jet in left cylinder. Does this even make sense? I thought the main jets were only used while the throttle is wide open?
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January 5th, 2018, 06:37 PM | #8 | |
Corner Chaser
Name: Thomas
Location: Eustis, FL
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Quote:
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1 out of 1 members found this post helpful. |
January 6th, 2018, 04:28 PM | #10 |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: Yannis
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@teafour I see, good points. The tank is actually quite dirty despite rinsing it out several times with kerosene, I also replaced both in-tank filters and installed a cone shaped in-line filter hoping this would prevent any clogging of the carb, maybe the dirt is just too fine?
Any pro tips on cleaning the tank out real good? I feel like some kind of pump would probably help. Cheers for the replies |
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January 6th, 2018, 04:35 PM | #11 |
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Problem is no matter what rotation position you have tank, there's always points lower than exit hole.
I've use a vacuum with large aquarium hose attachment (yay duct tape). Have also used garden hose on full-blast with shaking tank at same time. Final drying can be done with acetone as it dissolves both polar and non-polar compounds. |
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January 6th, 2018, 06:06 PM | #12 |
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Diesel fuel and a handful of small nuts. Shake it.
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January 7th, 2018, 10:27 AM | #13 |
Guy Who Enjoys Riding
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Sintered metal filters are often too coarse to catch small particles. Pleated paper filters are a sure bet, but carry a spare, because if there's enough fine silty dirt, they can get clogged. There are some high quality sintered metal filters with micron ratings, but I can't give you a specific brand from memory.
I had a chunk of dirt get through a sintered metal filter on my DT100, and it was so big it stuck in the main jet. |
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January 7th, 2018, 12:54 PM | #15 | |
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Quote:
stock airbox/exhaust? try 95 mains, N53x needles 35 pilots with around 2 turns on the pilot screws...both carbs... float height 17mm...fuel level +- 1mm measured at the bowl/body joint spark plug CH8A Possibly a sticker under the seat with plug GAP and valve clearance specs? this should get you in the ballpark AFTER you've gotten your tank/fuel issue in order Finally set the pilot screws, engine warm, each cylinder for highest idle and best throttle response. As yours is a non-US model, some further research would be advised. Factory supplied jetting specs for YOUR country should be printed in either the actual factory service manual, or factory supplement. They may differ slightly, but I'm real close, if not dead on. Historically, larger main jets were, in fact, used on the inner 2 cylinders in some 4 cylinder applications. In your case..unless contrary, factory documentation states otherwise...my 95 suggestion in both (documented from earlier USA models using same carbs ) should get you there. Regardless...I suggest you do your required research for YOUR country/model/year, to confirm or correct my stated info. And right you are...nasty cold here.
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gordon@customcarbservices.com Custom Carb Service www.customcarbservices.com |
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January 7th, 2018, 05:26 PM | #16 |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: Yannis
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Yeah stock as a rock, I bought it from the original owner who used it for rider training. I've been calling around some Kawasaki service centres but they are usually pretty busy, one place did tell me that my particular year model bike (1997) did in fact come with staggered main jets from factory (88 & 85). The service manual I have does specify 95 however it is for the 250HS model while I have the last of the EL's - a 250D. They were made for a good 9 years from 1988 to 1997.
Anyway I will confirm the carb specs, flush the tank out good & post back my progress. Thanks again for all the replies |
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January 7th, 2018, 05:48 PM | #17 |
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From your original post..... "I couldn't find anything in the workshop or owners manuals"
^ Misleading...I thought you were referring to the actual, correct service manual for your bike which will confirm the factory *as supplied* sizes. Parts books will show *available optional* sizes. If you don't have the correct service manual, perhaps the shop does? and can allow you a peek to put the issue to rest? I'd not rely on someones memory or hearsay...could send you on a goose chase...much rather read the spec in print...undeniable.
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January 29th, 2018, 09:47 PM | #18 |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: Yannis
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All done!
Turns out the larger main jet (88) and shorter jet needle (N25WK) belong to the left hand carburetor since that cylinder runs hotter. Running sweet with both pilot screws at 1 + 1/2 turns out. Local radiator shop told me it would be pointless to flush the tank unless I am going to Red Kote it. Ended up just installing an inline fuel filter (Walbro 125-930-1) which I bought from my local lawnmower shop. Been having a blast riding around on this thing Thanks to all for your input |
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January 29th, 2018, 11:04 PM | #19 | |
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Quote:
Bill
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Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again expecting different results each time. |
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