April 29th, 2013, 08:39 PM | #1 |
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Different thermostat?
Anyone know of a different thermostat in order to raise operating temp a few degrees as it runs a little cold from the factory?
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April 29th, 2013, 08:40 PM | #2 |
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Thermobob.
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April 29th, 2013, 08:40 PM | #3 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Kevin
Location: Madison
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Different thermostat?
Anyone know of a different thermostat in order to raise operating temp a few degrees as it runs cool from the factory.
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April 29th, 2013, 08:41 PM | #4 |
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Search for "thermobob" on this site; it's a gadget that will do what you're asking.
edit: pwned by chone.
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April 29th, 2013, 08:52 PM | #5 |
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I saw the thermobob but it was like 180 bucks........I thought it was a bit overkill. All i was looking for was a thermostat.
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April 29th, 2013, 09:42 PM | #6 |
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We know what your asking and where telling you NO buy a thermobob or nothing
But really its worth every penny and the guys was beyond cool and even spent like 10 hrs over a 3 week period on the phone letting me pick his brain and different things related to cooling. Just make sure if you get just the stat valve you need one with a bleed hole. This is hard to find because most vehicles use a thermobob type system and don't have the bleed hole in their stat valves. Best of luck with your search and please post up if you find a part that will fit as I'm sure others would like to know. Don't hesitate to call thermobob for any questions you have related to cooling. Even if your not going to buy from him he like to talk shop. |
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April 30th, 2013, 06:50 AM | #7 |
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Yeah, it's not overkill. It does more than just run at a hotter temp. It has a bypass so that there's always fluid circulating through the head, giving you more consistent temp as well as higher temp.
Kawasaki kinda cheaped out on the cooling system. Thermobob is on my to-do list this summer, right after my tapered head bearings and valve adjustment. |
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April 30th, 2013, 09:35 AM | #8 |
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I might block off the radiator a little bit first. Are thermostats a fairly standard size?
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April 30th, 2013, 09:48 AM | #9 |
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Before my thermobob I did tape off around 60-70% of my radiator but I have a Koso gauge with a digital temp readout so I was able to keep an eye on it. Make sure you don't run it to hot for obvious reasons.
Stat sizing is about as standard as oil filters are from what I gathered when I did my research. I was right where you were last year trying to do the same thing and after much research just went with the thermobob and was very pleased. |
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April 30th, 2013, 10:10 AM | #10 |
wat
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the thermostat units themselves are not standardized and the size varies manufacturer to manufacturer between different applications. though, japanese bikes are all extremely similar so it wouldn't surprise me if they used literally the same t-stat in for example, a suzuki and a kawi. however the outer t-stat case is probably vastly different between different bikes even in the same manufacturer. though radiator tube sizes on bikes are pretty damn close to each other so in reality you could probably grab any old t-stat and make it work with just about any bike. so long as the temp range is somewhat correct and it flows enough.
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April 30th, 2013, 12:12 PM | #11 | |
Long Time Rider
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Quote:
The new gen and pre gens share the same cap. The stock 1.1 BAR / 16 PSI (SAE range 14-18 PSI) radiator cap # 49085-1066 can be replaced by; Stant's 10233 Prestone's RR-33 CARQUEST 33044 Gates 31336 Gates Canada 31336 NAPA 703-1406 Stant (Carded) 11233 Stant (Carded) 70233BL Stant (Carded) 70233RD CST 7516(@ AutoZone) |
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April 30th, 2013, 12:17 PM | #12 |
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I'm not exactly super familiar with the cooling system but how does the radiator cap influence operating temp?
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April 30th, 2013, 12:54 PM | #13 |
wat
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if the cap fails, the radiator system wont pressurize and you'll spew coolant into your overflow well before it should.
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April 30th, 2013, 01:04 PM | #14 |
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Does anyone have the dimensions for the ninjas thermostat?
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April 30th, 2013, 01:24 PM | #15 |
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It's the little metal box that's hooked up to the coolant hoses directly under the middle of your tank and right above the head. Go measure it.
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April 30th, 2013, 01:28 PM | #16 | |
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Quote:
http://www.carsdirect.com/car-repair...essure-ratings "Look at the bottom of your radiator cap. There are two seals. One that seals at the top neck and one that seals at the bottom of the filler neck. As the fluid heats up it expands. It eventually over powers the primary spring in the radiator cap. The bottom seal is broken as the pressure exceeds the spring force of the cap and the cap rises. Fluid then enters the overflow tank until enough pressure is relieved to allow the spring to force the bottom seal back into place. You'll also find on the bottom center of the cap that there's a brass or stainless circle plate. That circle plate actually creates a one way check valve. When the engine cools back down the coolant shrinks in volume. As that happens the pressure in the coolant system becomes a vacuum pulling down on the bottom circle plate and thus opens the check valve. Once the valve opens the fluid is drawn in through the tube that leads to the bottom of the reservoir and refills the system. The system is actually self burping in that it evacuates air on each temperature cycle. Air is pumped out when the system gets hot and fluid is then drawn in when it cools."
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April 30th, 2013, 02:01 PM | #17 |
wat
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just a side note for informational purposes. if your thermostat or some other part (fill cap?) is having issues and restricting your coolant flow, you can temporarily remove it as road-side fix to get back on the road. (obviously the hoses would have to be rerouted to not require the tstat or filler or whatever
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