Woodcraft rearsets, the good and bad

[whylee]

I installed my Woodcraft rear sets last night. I bought the complete kit with the shifter and brake pedal. The rear sets them selves fit good. They feel great while riding and they look good.
Now for the bad, the shift lever will not work on them. The hiem joint will not clear the heel guard when shifting into first gear or down shifting, I have tried everything and it just will not clear the bottom of the heel guard.
Now onto the brake lever, it rubs the button head screw that holds the peg on. I could probably grind the screw head down, but I should not have to do that. The stock levers work great.
The brake lever is very close to the swingarm now, I hope it does not rub when weighting the peg in cornors because the rearsets do flex.
Overall very disappointed with them for the money they cost, will call them next week.

[wellcraft]

Sorry for the ignorance, but what is the purpose of a rear set?

[DEXSPEED]

for a more sportier stance/position.it pushes back and lifts your controlls for more leaning clearance and they look good!

[wellcraft]

Thanks for the clarification dude, they definitely look GOOD.

Originally Posted by DEXSPEED

for a more sportier stance/position.it pushes back and lifts your controls for more leaning clearance and they look good!

[DEXSPEED]

wellcraft,if you are interested in this mod i suggest try cycle control foot peg adjusters they are cheaper than full rear sets and does the job.http://www.cyclecontrol.com/index.php?page=products/rsa

[rockNroll]

On the brake side, the screw holding the foot peg on is what my brake lever stops against. I have it adjusted so that this is the starting "up" position. I don't see any evidence of them contacting the swing arm... I noticed the closeness there and have kept an eye on it.

On the shift side, I did two things to get where I wanted to be, and keep the rear end of the shift linkage from hitting the rear set when shifting into 1st gear. First, I removed the front from the shift rod on the transmission and rotated it one tooth clockwise on the shaft (the factory marks the two pieces with a peen). Next, I put the bolt for the rear end of the shift linkage in from the back side. Tightening it draws the nut down into the recess and now the nut is what I'd call "captive." The head of the bolt is now not visible and the nut is on the outside, but recessed into the rear set.

The only thing I don't like about these is that they don't raise the pegs high enough.

Hope this helps.

[alex.s]

rockNroll's got it.
I had to try 3 different times to get my shifter arm assy setup just how i wanted it... don't skimp on time when making modifications to your bike, especially controls. when it comes down to it, removing that small panel or cover (or in this case, the other side of the shifter arm) that seems like an unnecessary PITA will actually make the entire job a whole lot easier and will come out superior than if you had just fudged it into place doing only minimal part removal, without really removing the entire assembly or inspecting the job prior to it so you know exactly what you're dealing with and know all the parameters of the job.

the only thing i don't like about the woodcraft rearsets is that my shifter arm pivot point is on the outside edge of the rearset frame, but the brake pedal pivot is on the bottom/inside... not really a big deal but i like symmetry... i would prefer it if the shifter arm pivot was also on the bottom/inside like the brake pedal since i can sometimes feel the pivot on the side of my foot. again- a small gripe about an overall great product.

also, if you're super-cool, you'ld flip your shifter arm so its reversed (motoGP style)

[whylee]

Originally Posted by rockNroll

On the brake side, the screw holding the foot peg on is what my brake lever stops against. I have it adjusted so that this is the starting "up" position. I don't see any evidence of them contacting the swing arm... I noticed the closeness there and have kept an eye on it.

On the shift side, I did two things to get where I wanted to be, and keep the rear end of the shift linkage from hitting the rear set when shifting into 1st gear. First, I removed the front from the shift rod on the transmission and rotated it one tooth clockwise on the shaft (the factory marks the two pieces with a peen). Next, I put the bolt for the rear end of the shift linkage in from the back side. Tightening it draws the nut down into the recess and now the nut is what I'd call "captive." The head of the bolt is now not visible and the nut is on the outside, but recessed into the rear set.

The only thing I don't like about these is that they don't raise the pegs high enough.

Hope this helps.

Thanks for the info, I tried that and it worked, I cant get the shifter pointed downward as much as I would like, but it will do.