Looking for opinion

[alex.s]

its good to have estimates especially to bargain with (not sure if you paid already) but sometimes there are unknowns about a bike. would hate to have paid a bunch of money on the bike then find out the hard way about a mechanical failure that winds up making me dump the bike, or even something simple like blowing the engine right after redoing the entire cosmetics... you know what i mean. focus on making it 100% mechanically and reliable first. even paying a shop to do a full checkout can miss things. sometimes things happen and the chemicals in the bike can you know... ruin brand new paint jobs and stuff... sometimes you expect more traction from a tire or something... odd things happen with a new-to-you bike especially one that's been repaired... and delaying some light cosmetic work can sometimes work out extremely well in your favor, if you know what i mean. worst case, you wait a little bit longer to do it and have to endure riding an awesome bike with a weird paint job... hope you see where i'm coming from

[msebastian]

Originally Posted by alex.s

its good to have estimates especially to bargain with (not sure if you paid already) but sometimes there are unknowns about a bike. would hate to have paid a bunch of money on the bike then find out the hard way about a mechanical failure that winds up making me dump the bike, or even something simple like blowing the engine right after redoing the entire cosmetics... you know what i mean. focus on making it 100% mechanically and reliable first. even paying a shop to do a full checkout can miss things. sometimes things happen and the chemicals in the bike can you know... ruin brand new paint jobs and stuff... sometimes you expect more traction from a tire or something... odd things happen with a new-to-you bike especially one that's been repaired... and delaying some light cosmetic work can sometimes work out extremely well in your favor, if you know what i mean. worst case, you wait a little bit longer to do it and have to endure riding an awesome bike with a weird paint job... hope you see where i'm coming from

Oh yeah I definently do understand. I have not paid for anything yet since I have not purchased the bike yet. I do understand the chemicals part. I had a 98 Camaro SS and just rebuilt and stroked the engine and tryed to hide all of the wires in the engine to make it look as good as the rest of the car. I also had the engine bay painted a nice gloss black after lots of work to weld up all of the extra holes and smooth out the engine bay panels. Got it all back together and it looked sexy. I had a shop bleed the brakes and they overfilled the reservoir and pushed the pedal and fluids went everywhere. The fluid ate up my new paint job and was pissed when I saw what they did. They ended up paying to have it fixed at the cost of me pulling the engine again to have the engine bay resprayed. So I do understand what you are saying. I am looking at some DIY's and I may just have the Kawi shop do the main check up like valves, bolts, and brakes. Thanks Alex

[Trailerboy531]

Originally Posted by msebastian

I am mechanically sound but not so much on motorcycles. I know I can do the fluids (maybe not the brake fluid, is there any good how to's on this.) I also do not think I will be able to check the valves and valve lash, I can do so on a car but like I said I have never worked on a motorcycle that in depth (how to's on this may boost my confidence though.)

The brake fluid is very easy and there are how to's EVERYTWHERE on this site and youtube. It's simple brake bleeding. The valves... well. You can ride the bike and if it feels like crap you can usually tell if the valves are out of spec. There are also some very detailed (and long) videos on here about how to do a valve job as well as how to's. This is all stuff you'll want to learn to do at some point, you might as well not spend $400 and save that money for something more useful. I can almost guarantee that everything you will want to check can be found on this site or the information can be given if you ask.

[SMman]

Completely agree. There's no need to take it to a shop. All the info you need is online and there are lots of knowledgeable people to help if you run into any problems. Save yourself the money and enjoy the satisfaction of doing the work yourself. I didn't even know how to change the oil on my SV650 when I bought it in 1999 so I bought the service manual and learned how to do everything from syncing the carbs, changing the brake fluid, checking the valves, etc. Its not nearly as difficult as you might think.

[msebastian]

Originally Posted by SMman

Completely agree. There's no need to take it to a shop. All the info you need is online and there are lots of knowledgeable people to help if you run into any problems. Save yourself the money and enjoy the satisfaction of doing the work yourself. I didn't even know how to change the oil on my SV650 when I bought it in 1999 so I bought the service manual and learned how to do everything from syncing the carbs, changing the brake fluid, checking the valves, etc. Its not nearly as difficult as you might think.

I just watched a video for checking the valves on a 3rd Gen 250. Is this similar to the 4th Gen because if so it seems simple enough. Once everything is apart, turn crank to appropriate mark, check valve with feelers, unscrew nut and tighten or loosen screw, tighten nut and check with feeler until valve is within spec. Obviously this is the short version but it seems no different than a car. I think I feel more confident and comfortable now than a few hours ago. I also seen the nice DIY thread in the Tech forum so I think I can save myself some money and get this thing running right like everyone has stated. I could not find a DIY on draining the brake fluid, refilling, and bleeding the brakes.

[msebastian]

Found a video on replacing brake fluid and bleeding the brakes. Damn this **** is just as simple if not easier than a car. I am going to save my $400 and do everything myself. Thanks guys for the support and help with everything.

[msebastian]

What is a good relatively inexspensive chain for the 520 conversion 15/42 sprockets. No gold chains. Also what is some popular synthetic oil, oil filter, brake fluid, and coolant that is used in the 250R. Once again thanks for the help.

[msebastian]

Come on guys help me out with the above post. I was going to get my fluids and some other supplies tomorrow.

[sLick415]

Shell Rotella T6 is what most use. I also use a k&n oil filter (kn-401), Galfer DOT 4 brake fluid and engine ice coolant.

[SMman]

I'm still on the stock chain on the 250 and replaced the stock chain on my 636 with another OEM chain I bought from a crashed bike so I'm afraid I don't have a recommendation on the chain.

I don't bother with synthetic oil in the 250 but use Motul 5100 in my CRF450R motard. I've also used Amsoil in the past.

Oil filter is whatever my dealer has in stock to fit the 250.

Brake fluid is DOT4.

Lastly, just make sure the coolant is safe for aluminum radiators. You can buy it pre-mixed or add distilled water. Do not use tap or bottled water. Ratio is 50/50.

I just use distilled water and Water Wetter so its good to use at the track. My bike is always in a heated garage so no worries of it freezing.

[msebastian]

Originally Posted by sLick415

Shell Rotella T6 is what most use. I also use a k&n oil filter (kn-401), Galfer DOT 4 brake fluid and engine ice coolant.

I went and picked up some T6 5w-40 oil, Galfer DOT 4 brake fluid, and some cycle logic engine ice coolant. Should I get any gear oil (if so what is popular) and I still need a good inexspensive chain 520 sprockets (No gold chains.) The bike already has the 520 conversion with a 15/45 and I plan on getting a 42 rear for better fuel economy, lower engine RPM's at highway speeds, and a more useable first gear. I am learning alot on here and Youtube videos.

[Falcor]

Here are the products I personally use if it helps.

[msebastian]

Thanks Falcor I appreciate it. I could use some help with the chain though for anyone who wants to help out. I will do some searching and see what turns up.

[msebastian]

Nevermind I found a chain. I did not know the cahin and sprockets are 520 from the factory. Found a black o-ring chain with a rivet master link.

[SMman]

To answer a previous question, you don't need to buy any gear oil for the 250. Congrats on deciding to do your own work. The bike needs a new chain already?

[msebastian]

Originally Posted by SMman

To answer a previous question, you don't need to buy any gear oil for the 250. Congrats on deciding to do your own work. The bike needs a new chain already?

Well I am changing the rear sproket and saw that it is a good idea to change the chain as well. I figured I might as well change it to ensure there are no future issues. Thanks I feel much more confident about doing the work. I am also thinking about painting the bike as well. I was thinking a flat black 250R would look sick.

[SMman]

Flat black is nice:

[msebastian]

Originally Posted by SMman

Flat black is nice:

That picture is what inspired me to go flat black. Plus I can paint the bike flat black myself on the cheap. I was thinking a black Ninja decal in stock location and a black Kawasaki decal on the lower fairing under the bottom opening. And maybe a ZX-2R od 250R decal on the rear fairings. Plau I was thinking of polishing the outer lip of the rims. I think it would look sick and definently different.

[choneofakind]

Originally Posted by Falcor

Because i'm wondering if it would still give a slight performance gain since it's using the better header and jet kit even though the flow is going to be restricted a bit with the stock muffler.

fwiw, you can get slightly better performance by removing the snorkel and adding shimming the carb needles out with 2 washers. That's a lot cheaper than an aftermarket header.

Here's a base run:

Link to original page on YouTube.

and here's a run with a hollowed out oem muffler with a perforated tube and glass-pack in it, along with needles needles that were shimmed:

Link to original page on YouTube.
He didn't even remove his snorkel. That was just a slip-on and needle shimming, which gave him another hp. I also know from experience that shimming the needles makes the mid-range way smoother and more responsive.

[msebastian]

I was told the airbox has been completely removed and an air pod was installed as well as a stage 2 jet kit (don't know jet sizing or if the needles have been shimmed.) I did hear the bike start up from a cold start (in garage) and it fired right up. We talked while the bike ran and warmed up and he then gave the bike a few revs and I could not tell any hesitation or lumpyness to the engine. To be honest it sounded very good through the phone. I am going out to see the bike in the next couple days and will most likely bring the bike home based on the price alone. Plus he has sent me the pics of the damage, as well as proved to me the bike ran, and gave me the number of the Kawi shop that went over the bike. By the way I called them and they said besides the scratches and scuffs the bike was in perfect working and mechanical condition 500 miles ago when they inspected it.

[SMman]

Someone I knew painted his ZX-6R a dark flat grey with shiny black Kawasaki decals and it looked great. I'll see if I can find a picture.

Your idea sounds good but I would personally skip the polished wheels. They're a pain to keep looking good and I've always liked all black best anyways. I'd also skip the big Kawasaki decal on the bottom and ZX-2 or 250 decal on the tail. That's just me though so make it the way you will like it best.

EDIT: Here's the flat grey ZX-6R. I now remember him calling it graphite. I was impressed with it at the time and think it still looks good all these years later.

[msebastian]

That bike does look good. I was thinking the decal would look good at the bottom something like this:





I may just order 2 new 3D emblems from a ZX-14 and paint them black and stick them in the stock location and go with those two only.

The polished lip that I am reffering to is on this thread:

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10239

[SMman]

Of the two pictured, I prefer the Kawasaki decal placement on the green bike.

The polished lips do make the bike standout some but be prepared for a lot of work keeping them looking good. A friend of mine polished his and regretted it because it was such a pain to keep them shiny.

[msebastian]

Well I am going to get the bike tomorrow. I will post up some pics when I get her home. I will also start a build thread to show my progress and to ask questions along the way.

[msebastian]

The guy backed out of today and will not be available on Saturday so it may be Sunday now when I get the bike.

[msebastian]

I ended up getting the guy to bring the bike to me for the original asking price of $1,200 and he should be here soon. I told him if the bike is not how he explained then he I am not paying for anything and he just wasted time and gas. He said okay so I am assuming that he is being honest and is not screwing around. Needless to say if everything is as he stated I will have the bike in a few hours. I already ordered a new chain, 15/42T sprockets, double bubble, solo seat cowl, bikelitez flush mounts, drive chain breaker and riveting tool set, and a cable luber. I also went up to Harbor Freight and got a swingarm spool stand.

[Falcor]

Originally Posted by msebastian

I ended up getting the guy to bring the bike to me for the original asking price of $1,200 and he should be here soon. I told him if the bike is not how he explained then he I am not paying for anything and he just wasted time and gas. He said okay so I am assuming that he is being honest and is not screwing around. Needless to say if everything is as he stated I will have the bike in a few hours. I already ordered a new chain, 15/42T sprockets, double bubble, solo seat cowl, bikelitez flush mounts, drive chain breaker and riveting tool set, and a cable luber. I also went up to Harbor Freight and got a swingarm spool stand.

Well you're already invested, not that you couldn't return everything but it sounds like this deal is said and done! Be sure to show us some pics of your new baby, get some before and afters up in this b-.

[msebastian]

Originally Posted by Falcor

Well you're already invested, not that you couldn't return everything but it sounds like this deal is said and done! Be sure to show us some pics of your new baby, get some before and afters up in this b-.

Will do, she is going to be a hot mess until I fix her up some.

[msebastian]

I asked the seller what maintinence has been done to the bike and he told me to call the number he gave me for his local Kawi shop. I was mostly worried about the valves being properly adjusted and according to the shop they were checked 300 miles ago. The coolant has not been replaced and neither has the brake fluid or oil been changed since the seeler bought the bike 300 miles ago. But the shop told me everything looked fine when they had the bike. I am going to go ahead and change the oil, coolant, brake fluid, and spark plugs just for my peace of mind. Do you think I should do this or just leave it alone. Also what about the valves should I give them a double check anyways. To be honest I am just looking for things to do with the bike. What do ya think?

[Falcor]

Originally Posted by msebastian

I asked the seller what maintinence has been done to the bike and he told me to call the number he gave me for his local Kawi shop. I was mostly worried about the valves being properly adjusted and according to the shop they were checked 300 miles ago. The coolant has not been replaced and neither has the brake fluid or oil been changed since the seeler bought the bike 300 miles ago. But the shop told me everything looked fine when they had the bike. I am going to go ahead and change the oil, coolant, brake fluid, and spark plugs just for my peace of mind. Do you think I should do this or just leave it alone. Also what about the valves should I give them a double check anyways. To be honest I am just looking for things to do with the bike. What do ya think?

Ride it around the block, see if the timing sounds off. Make sure the brakes feel right and that the fluid is clean for both brakes and engine. If the oil wasn't changed recently (within the last 3,000+ miles) it doesn't hurt to change it out especially if it's not full synthetic. Spark plugs should be fine too unless you notice anything weird when you test ride it. Not even sure when you're supposed to change the coolant to be honest. There is a copy of the manual on here for all that stuff let me get you a link.

http://www.ninjette.org/w/images/7/7...aintenance.pdf

That being said, if you feel like changing everything will give you more peace of mind and you're okay with spending the money on it go ahead. But I doubt all of it needs to be changed. Might be better off putting that money elsewhere.

[msebastian]

Originally Posted by Falcor

Ride it around the block, see if the timing sounds off. Make sure the brakes feel right and that the fluid is clean for both brakes and engine. If the oil wasn't changed recently (within the last 3,000+ miles) it doesn't hurt to change it out especially if it's not full synthetic. Spark plugs should be fine too unless you notice anything weird when you test ride it. Not even sure when you're supposed to change the coolant to be honest. There is a copy of the manual on here for all that stuff let me get you a link.

http://www.ninjette.org/w/images/7/7...aintenance.pdf

That being said, if you feel like changing everything will give you more peace of mind and you're okay with spending the money on it go ahead. But I doubt all of it needs to be changed. Might be better off putting that money elsewhere.

Too late:

[msebastian]

Plus it is cold as **** outside right now. I plan on doing a small ride to check the bike out and see how it feels and how it goes through the gears but nothing too significant.

[Falcor]

Originally Posted by msebastian

Plus it is cold as **** outside right now. I plan on doing a small ride to check the bike out and see how it feels and how it goes through the gears but nothing too significant.

That should be enough to let you know if the power and timing seems off.

[SMman]

How many miles on the bike? Valves will be good if only 300 miles since they were checked. Get a copy of the service intervals or I can look them up for you if you'd like. Oil was changed 300 miles ago? It will be fine. I change my coolant and brake fluid every 2 years but you can go longer. I don't get to ride my bikes as much these days so just change the oil and filter every fall, except the CRF450R which is a maintenance whore and gets new oil every track day. My riding season is only 3 months because of work and the damn cold weather.

[msebastian]

I just got the bike home. I will post pictures tomorrow. I wrote a big long sentence about the bike and then my internet went down and it did not go through. I will post more tomorrow along with the pictures. Real short the bike started right up and had no problems during warm up and runs very well. Went on a ride and the bike felt great. This bike should have sold for over $2,000 and I got it for $1,200 and delivered 320 miles to my door step. What a deal and I am very happy.

[SMman]

I'll use my 100th post to congratulate you! I'm glad it all worked out. That was great the seller delivered the bike and it was in the condition you were expecting. I can relate to typing a huge post and having it not work . Have fun with your new 2fiddy .

[msebastian]

Teaser



Don't mind the garage it is a mess right now. My mom left all of her garage sell stuff in my garage from last summer. When it warms up her **** will be gone. Oh yeah notice anything going on in the picture.

[Falcor]

Originally Posted by msebastian

Don't mind the garage it is a mess right now. My mom left all of her garage sell stuff in my garage from last summer. When it warms up her **** will be gone. Oh yeah notice anything going on in the picture.

Put that woman to work! To be honest, the bike doesn't look that bad at all. The only thing that screams at me is the primer painted upper cowling. And it looks like you're already draining the oil :P

[sLick415]

An oil change?

[msebastian]

Yup did the oil change, should the oil be to the top of the sight glass. It is about 3/4 high. I will check now that the bike is cooled down some. I did 1.7-1.8 qts like the DIY said. Filling the oil up slowly and then running the bike and letting it cool and filling more if needed. The old oil looked really good and the filter was really clean.