July 27th, 2009, 11:27 AM | #81 |
self wrencher
Name: john
Location: houston
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July 27th, 2009, 11:32 AM | #82 |
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August 14th, 2009, 11:50 PM | #83 |
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I just tried tapping into the sensor wire (using a wire tap) to hook the "idiot light" back up. I do NOT recommend this. I ended up destroying it. Apparently the gauge is VERY picky about the sensor wire, and tapping into it really pissed it off. I got readings all over the place, some of them don't exist on this planet. I'll be ordering a replacement sensor now. Grrrrrr....
EDIT: anyone know where I can get a replacement sensor? I have been looking, and looking, but can't find anything! |
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August 15th, 2009, 05:44 AM | #84 | |
self wrencher
Name: john
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Quote:
I didn't "cut" the sensor wire. I simply stripped a small section, soldered a piece of wire to it, wrapped it up. At the other end of this wire, I put in a spade connector (male) so that will fit into the stock plug. |
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August 15th, 2009, 11:06 AM | #85 |
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That is pretty much what I did too... except I used one of those tap thingies. I think I misjudged the gauge, so it nicked a few braids in the wire, but it wasn't totally severed.
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August 15th, 2009, 01:08 PM | #86 |
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I took the sender off, cut and stripped the wire, and then discovered why I am likely having this problem. There are TWO wires in there, not just one (see pic below)..... I was probably shorting them out. I am in the process of repairing them right now.
Which one was the signal wire you tapped into, the red? I'm still looking for a replacement sender (part# 17-850S), but cannot find a single vendor that sells it. If someone knows where I can get one, please let me know. |
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August 15th, 2009, 01:29 PM | #87 |
self wrencher
Name: john
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You have to strip the wire like that to solder it in...can't just use the tap and go through both. If I remember correctly I soldered it into a black one...it has been awhile..can't remember now..got it all wrapped up now.
You should be fine. Just solder each wire back up and you're okay. Put some tape to isolate each wires. You don't need a new sensor. |
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August 15th, 2009, 01:42 PM | #88 | |
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Quote:
Yes, as soon as I saw there where two wires in there, I knew I did a bad thing LOL! When I first posted last night, I hadn't realized that yet. |
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August 15th, 2009, 02:19 PM | #89 |
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Update: I have it repaired, but it is acting funny now. I have to have the light disconnected when I turn it on, then reconnect it.... otherwise it won't take a temp. reading. It also seems to read a little lower when it it connected. Could this mean the light should be wired to the black instead?
EDIT: OK, I am an idiot.... you DID say black, but I thought I read red (and that was double checking it). I think I need sleep. So, if anyone wonders what would happen if you connected it to the red, this is what happens. I'm going to try to switch it back to black now..... I don't have much lead to work with |
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August 15th, 2009, 02:34 PM | #90 |
self wrencher
Name: john
Location: houston
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Jesus man...looks like you're loosing a lot of sweats. Just solder the two wires up and leave it at that...forget about that idiot light.
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August 15th, 2009, 02:53 PM | #91 | |
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Quote:
No that it is hooked up to the black it is even worse! Same issue about not taking a reading if it is hooked up when bike is turned on. But now when I connect it (after turned on), it reads ~20 degrees lower! I'm going to keep it disconnected for now, but I really want to know why this is happening. It would be nice to have it fixed. In theory, if the senders wires are shortened, will this throw off the reading (or is wire length unrelated)? |
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August 15th, 2009, 11:34 PM | #92 |
That's me!
Name: TJ
Location: Ames, IA
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Did you still leave the idiot light spliced into the aftermarket sender? If so that could be causing you problems. The stock sender is an "on-off" style so once a certain temperature is achieved the sensor closes the ground connection (causing the light to illuminate). The aftermarket sender is variable (hence the two wires). If you splice the idiot light into that ground it's going to likely affect the reading I would guess! The nature of temperature senders is usually a reading between .5 volts (now a days they're reading even lower then that) and 4.5 volts. So if the sender is registering perhaps 120 degrees it might output 2.5 volts. If it is sensing 200 degrees it might spit out 3.5 volts. By tapping into the ground with the idiot light it's going to pull some of that voltage from the sender causing the sensor to think the bike is cooler then it is (because it's receiving a lower voltage)
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August 16th, 2009, 12:34 AM | #93 |
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Thanks VeX. Soooo I guess the others only THOUGHT they had it working. Glad I could help
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August 16th, 2009, 05:16 AM | #94 |
self wrencher
Name: john
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Dang..looks like I need to d/c mine. I had it hooked up but it hasn't gone off (idiot light) or anything since my bike never over heated. The daytona is working like normal....i guess i'll take it out just in case.
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August 16th, 2009, 09:43 AM | #95 |
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It will likely draw current, but the sender probably works on 0-5 volts whereas the bulb is meant to operate at 12 volts Take a look at the wiring diagram. The overheat sender literally has only one wire going to it because it completes a ground So once the sender hits a predetermined temperature (very much like a thermostat) it closes internally completing the connection.
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August 16th, 2009, 11:59 AM | #96 |
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Part of me feels vindicated... I'm not crazy after all.
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August 16th, 2009, 12:03 PM | #97 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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August 16th, 2009, 12:28 PM | #98 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
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August 16th, 2009, 12:29 PM | #99 |
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Have fun!
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