My LED license plate frame installation.

Ken · May 5th, 2009, 12:27 PM

Sorry this isn't a complete DIY thread. I apologize in advance for lack of step-by-step pictures. I was "preparing" the parts for installation, and everything installed like clockwork so I decided to finish it up. But trust me if you decide to take on a project like this it's very easy with common-sense guiding you.

Parts you will need:

Custom Dynamics dual bar license frame

http://www.customdynamics.com/dualbar_license.htm

They have various frame choices, including one with turn signals built in as well.

Optional: License frame fasteners

http://www.customdynamics.com/mounti...re_license.htm

Posi-tap electrical taps.

http://www.posi-lock.com/posiplug.html

I used the red EX-140R taps.

Drill.

Grinder (Dremel).

I decided to remove my fender eliminator for this installation because the angle of the bracket will make the LED lights point upwards. I want them to shine back as straight as possible, for better visibility for motorists behind me. This required the use of the stock fender.

Depending on which license frame you choose, you need to drill a hole on the license plate itself to allow the license frame wires to pass through. Since my frame has 2 light bars, I had to drill one hole on the top center and one hole on the bottom.

You need to drill a hole into the mudflap for the wires to pass through from the license plate to the undertail.

If you decide to keep the red reflectors like I did, you need to grind the top-side of the center hole for clearance of the license plate wires. Again I apologize for not having a pic, but if you decide to take on this project it's self-explanatory. You'll need to make the hole oblong for clearance.

Route the wires through the undertail with the factory turn signal wires.

In this pic you can see I've already placed the wire in a split-loom and put silicone where it meets the fender to make it "permanent". I also put silicone on the other side of the flap to keep the wires from vibrating and possibly cutting itself through. In hindsight I should've used shrink-wrap but whatever.

Tap the tail light socket wires with the Posi-Taps. I also have the no-cut brake-light modulator I bought on eBay so it looks a little bit more cluttered than stock.

Pic of the license frame with just the running light:

Pic with the brake applied:

Video of the finished product:

I'm also using TMI 1157 LED tower bulb, and coupled with the LED license frame and the brake-light modulator doing it's job, I feel a lot safer.

GreezMunky · May 5th, 2009, 05:05 PM

That looks very clean Ken. Good job!

M-Oorb · May 5th, 2009, 06:46 PM

Haha love the custom license plate

May 5th, 2009, 12:27 PM	#1
Ken "Is that the Ninjer 1000? Name: Ken Location: SoCal SGV Join Date: Nov 2008 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Quarter Liter Kawi Posts: 275	My LED brake light license plate frame installation. Sorry this isn't a complete DIY thread. I apologize in advance for lack of step-by-step pictures. I was "preparing" the parts for installation, and everything installed like clockwork so I decided to finish it up. But trust me if you decide to take on a project like this it's very easy with common-sense guiding you. Parts you will need: Custom Dynamics dual bar license frame http://www.customdynamics.com/dualbar_license.htm They have various frame choices, including one with turn signals built in as well. Optional: License frame fasteners http://www.customdynamics.com/mounti...re_license.htm Posi-tap electrical taps. http://www.posi-lock.com/posiplug.html I used the red EX-140R taps. Drill. Grinder (Dremel). I decided to remove my fender eliminator for this installation because the angle of the bracket will make the LED lights point upwards. I want them to shine back as straight as possible, for better visibility for motorists behind me. This required the use of the stock fender. Depending on which license frame you choose, you need to drill a hole on the license plate itself to allow the license frame wires to pass through. Since my frame has 2 light bars, I had to drill one hole on the top center and one hole on the bottom. You need to drill a hole into the mudflap for the wires to pass through from the license plate to the undertail. If you decide to keep the red reflectors like I did, you need to grind the top-side of the center hole for clearance of the license plate wires. Again I apologize for not having a pic, but if you decide to take on this project it's self-explanatory. You'll need to make the hole oblong for clearance. Route the wires through the undertail with the factory turn signal wires. In this pic you can see I've already placed the wire in a split-loom and put silicone where it meets the fender to make it "permanent". I also put silicone on the other side of the flap to keep the wires from vibrating and possibly cutting itself through. In hindsight I should've used shrink-wrap but whatever. Tap the tail light socket wires with the Posi-Taps. I also have the no-cut brake-light modulator I bought on eBay so it looks a little bit more cluttered than stock. Pic of the license frame with just the running light: Pic with the brake applied: Video of the finished product: I'm also using TMI 1157 LED tower bulb, and coupled with the LED license frame and the brake-light modulator doing it's job, I feel a lot safer. __________________________________________________ My Mods Last futzed with by Ken; May 26th, 2009 at 05:45 PM.

May 5th, 2009, 05:05 PM	#2
GreezMunky ninjette.org guru Name: Tor Location: TX Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): 09 250r (sold), 2010 Daytona 675 Posts: 301	That looks very clean Ken. Good job!

May 5th, 2009, 06:46 PM	#3
M-Oorb ninjette.org sage Name: Matt Location: South East Florida/Rutgers University Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): 2008 250r (Fastest Color) Posts: 914	Haha love the custom license plate