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Old June 3rd, 2013, 07:15 PM   #1
hillbilly86
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Running rich, any help?

I'm new to the forum. I've got a 1990 ninja 250, idled and ran fine, then I removed all the plastics to paint them and after putting it all together it suddenly started running rich and flooding itself out. I removed the carburetors and cleaned them, nothing wrong and were actually pretty spotless but I sprayed them down and cleaned everything anyways since I had them off. Then I checked my spark plugs, which I just replaced maybe a month ago, neither of them were fouled but I could smell the fuel on them so I cleaned them up, went over all the wiring, made sure there was no little short of any kind in the junction box, started it up and now it'll idle fine for a few minutes then want to bog down and die if I don't stay on the gas. I ran it down the road just to see how it'd run in the higher rpms and it'll spit and sputter the first time I jump on the gas until it hits between 6000 and 8000 and then it'll clear up and take off. I stop and it'll idle fine for a few minutes then goes right back to bogging down if I don't stay on the gas. The only thing left I can think to try is adjusting the fuel/air mixture since that's what affects it in the lower rpm's but if anyone has any other ideas I am open to suggestions
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Old June 4th, 2013, 05:13 AM   #2
rojoracing53
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Do the pregens have a prim setting on the petcock like the Newgens? If so maybe that's it.

I know I'm not much help but others will be so give them more info like list of engine, intake, jetting and exhuast mods so they have a better idea. What are your air fuel screws set at now?
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Old June 4th, 2013, 06:24 AM   #3
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If the bowls are over-flooding still, the little valves that the floats operate are not closing properly while the engine is vibrating.

If that is happening, the level inside the bowls is correct at start ups but increases until making the mix too rich and over-flooding.

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_..._the_floats%3F

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_a_c...Floating_In_It

Sometimes the little neoprene pointy thing gets too hard, sometimes it is just deposits on the seat of the valves.

Close the petcock after the engine starts and check if the same thing happens during a long idle.
If not, it is the float-valve(s).
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Last futzed with by Motofool; June 4th, 2013 at 07:36 AM.
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Old June 4th, 2013, 10:36 AM   #4
hillbilly86
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I've not done any mods on the bike other than chopping up the stock exhaust (just because I don't have $396 to spend on slip-ons), I happen to notice today the the diaphragm on the right side of the carbs (looking at it if you're sitting on it) was leaking a little fuel. Took it apart, cleaned it, then put a thin layer of blue glue and put her back together. Then I took and cleaned the connections onto the cowls just to make sure. It runs perfect now, no spitting and sputtering thru any of the rpm range, but it's still wanting to idle fine for a few minutes then die out. I'm going to try and adjust the air/fuel mixture some but I'm not sure as to what the base line is to start with, like 2 full rotations out after tightening them all the way down, and any input is welcome rojoracing53. As far as I can see the petcock doesn't on this one
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Old June 4th, 2013, 11:06 AM   #5
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this is where I suddenly become scarce

I'm leaving you in the hands of the pregen owners.
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Old June 4th, 2013, 11:10 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hillbilly86 View Post
............I'm going to try and adjust the air/fuel mixture some but I'm not sure as to what the base line is to start with, like 2 full rotations out after tightening them all the way down, and any input is welcome..........
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_...dle_mixture%3F
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Old June 4th, 2013, 11:11 AM   #7
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Chopping up as in 2 into 1 or just shorter cans?
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Old June 4th, 2013, 11:15 AM   #8
hillbilly86
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Chopping up as in 2 into 1 or just shorter cans?
chopped the cans in half, drilled out the rivets on the back plate so I could just remove the baffling but the plate is connected to the small pipe running thru so I chopped them down, figured if I mess up on 'em I can get another set of stock pipes off ebay for $30-$35
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Old June 4th, 2013, 11:18 AM   #9
hillbilly86
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thank you sooo much, I'm trying what I can without having to pull the carbs again so if this doesn't do it then my next step will be checking the floats and adjust if necessary. I'll keep ya updated
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Old June 4th, 2013, 11:28 AM   #10
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Imma gunna ask a stupid question. Your turning off the choke right? Choke working right?
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Old June 4th, 2013, 11:29 AM   #11
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You are welcome

http://www.factorypro.com/tech_tunin...m_engines.html
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Old June 4th, 2013, 11:37 AM   #12
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"Service Unavailable"
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Old June 4th, 2013, 12:30 PM   #13
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"Service Unavailable"
Not for me
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Old June 4th, 2013, 12:49 PM   #14
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not that i'm saying factory pro is wrong... but those instructions are incorrect.

by tuning the main jet first, and then after the fact changing the settings for the pilot jet, you are in fact ****ing up your initial main jet tune.

tune the pilot jet and idle air mix first. then the main jet. then the needle clip position.

logically, theres no other order to tune in without ****ing up some setting. since the fuel output at WOT redline is a sum of all the contributing jets, pilot, main, and enricher if its active....
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Old June 4th, 2013, 07:00 PM   #15
hillbilly86
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Finally got her running right. After adjusting the air/fuel mixture with no change I reluctantly pulled the carbs to check the adjustments on the floats. Notice the float on the right side (which was the one giving me the problems and running rich) wasn't sitting down as far as the left side so I took it out and just happen to notice a very tiny piece of crap under the needle. It's amazing how something so small can cause such a headache. Thank you to everyone who threw in their 2 cent, it's greatly appreciated
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Old June 5th, 2013, 05:32 AM   #16
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