Shogun frame slider frame bolt question

crankinaway · June 20th, 2010, 11:13 AM

So I purchased the kit and upon inspection realized the new frame bolts that secure the cross brace to the frame are just mild steel threaded rod with a nut welded on one end.

I have yet to pull my fairings off but could somebody tell me what the head markings look like on the original bolts? I use to work for a bolt manufacturer so I would like to determine if I would be better off using alloy rod instead which is closer to a grade 5 spec bolt instead of the grade 2 supplied.

randomwalk101 · June 20th, 2010, 03:44 PM

stock bolt is mild grade steel but without the welded nut like Shogun. I originally thought shoGun was a little flipsy so went to the hardware store and bought a pair of bolts of similar length to replace it....well that's when I was working 7 on 7 off...oh so much time...now just 9-5 m-f...only weekends off..no time for anything..boo!

crankinaway · June 20th, 2010, 08:33 PM

So you did replace them with a higher grade bolt? I suspect the lower grade has a little more flex before snapping, but last time I checked cars and trucks used grade 8 bolts for engine mounts.

I guess if the bolts that come out are mild steel, then Shoguns spray galvanized redi rod should be okay. I am still thinking of at least going to nylocks, plus if I switch to nylocks on both ends I think I can just bang the original bolt out with the redi rod without jacking the motor.

Banzai · June 21st, 2010, 05:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Banzai

As I've posted before here:

...........As a technical note, make sure that your engine mount bolts (upper and lower) that you replace and/or retorque are as free floating as you can get them on installation. A little binding is expected, and somewhat normal, but if you had to force them in and then torqued them with the weight of the engine on them, be aware that you MAY NOT have gotten proper torque on the bolt, ESPECIALLY with the Shogun kit. With the full weight of the engine assembly on the bolt before torquing, sometimes the bolt won't strech properly, and subesquent road vibration and heat/cold cycles will allow the whole assembly to settle and equalize the load on the bolt. Retorquing will often reveal that the nut will turn somewhat, indicating that it was not torqued properly initially. This is very common in the Shogun kit, as the replacement upper engine mount bolt is assembled from threaded rod that has a nut welded onto one end to form the 'bolt head'. The threaded rod is of a (sufficient) but lower grade than the factory bolt, and stretches more on initial torque. Oh, and you might want to put a spot of black paint on the thing, too, to prevent corrosion, if you're given to care about things like that. About 6 inches of the bolt is exposed at the front of the engine case, and will get all of the road water and dirt on it that your front tire kicks up. Touch up black on the bolt head and nut will ensure that you won't have to worry much about rusted tight components should you ever need to remove them later in life.

randomwalk101 · June 21st, 2010, 07:37 AM

Yes I banged it out with another bolt.
Posted via Mobile Device

crankinaway · June 21st, 2010, 05:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by randomwalk101

Yes I banged it out with another bolt.
Posted via Mobile Device

Did it slide out easily or did it take alot of force?

00v_Lucky · June 22nd, 2010, 12:55 AM

I am also thinking about getting higher grade bolts too. Care to share which dimensions you chose afterwards? (the length of the rods for the top and bottom)

I think last time i checked the bolt has a number 6 on it (perhaps 9 but I doubt it). however I do not know if it corresponds to the grade level.

crankinaway · June 22nd, 2010, 06:46 PM

What you want to get is an alloy rod usually available at home depot, normally yellow plated and personally I would go either with a nylon or stover lock nut of equivalent grade. Alloy rod is very close to a grade 5 strength as opposed to the Shoguns included grade 2 material stud. I have not yet cut mine to length.

Here is the thing though....the instructions say the rod is a 9/16 thread diameter, when actually it is 3/8-16 thread. I hope they have included the appropriate size rod for the kit.

Can anyone confirm what size came out of the motor? Chances are it is metric tho.

June 20th, 2010, 11:13 AM	#1
crankinaway ninjette.org member Name: Sean Location: Vancouver, BC Canada Join Date: Jun 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250R Posts: 16	Shogun frame slider frame bolt question So I purchased the kit and upon inspection realized the new frame bolts that secure the cross brace to the frame are just mild steel threaded rod with a nut welded on one end. I have yet to pull my fairings off but could somebody tell me what the head markings look like on the original bolts? I use to work for a bolt manufacturer so I would like to determine if I would be better off using alloy rod instead which is closer to a grade 5 spec bolt instead of the grade 2 supplied.

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June 20th, 2010, 03:44 PM	#2
randomwalk101 self wrencher Name: john Location: houston Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): 08 250r and 07 600r Posts: A lot.	stock bolt is mild grade steel but without the welded nut like Shogun. I originally thought shoGun was a little flipsy so went to the hardware store and bought a pair of bolts of similar length to replace it....well that's when I was working 7 on 7 off...oh so much time...now just 9-5 m-f...only weekends off..no time for anything..boo!

June 20th, 2010, 08:33 PM	#3
crankinaway ninjette.org member Name: Sean Location: Vancouver, BC Canada Join Date: Jun 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250R Posts: 16	So you did replace them with a higher grade bolt? I suspect the lower grade has a little more flex before snapping, but last time I checked cars and trucks used grade 8 bolts for engine mounts. I guess if the bolts that come out are mild steel, then Shoguns spray galvanized redi rod should be okay. I am still thinking of at least going to nylocks, plus if I switch to nylocks on both ends I think I can just bang the original bolt out with the redi rod without jacking the motor.

June 21st, 2010, 07:37 AM	#5
randomwalk101 self wrencher Name: john Location: houston Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): 08 250r and 07 600r Posts: A lot.	Yes I banged it out with another bolt. Posted via Mobile Device

June 22nd, 2010, 12:55 AM	#7
00v_Lucky ninjette.org sage Name: Howard Location: Cypress, So. Cal. Join Date: Feb 2009 Motorcycle(s): '09 Candy Thunder Blue Ninja 250R Posts: 618	I am also thinking about getting higher grade bolts too. Care to share which dimensions you chose afterwards? (the length of the rods for the top and bottom) I think last time i checked the bolt has a number 6 on it (perhaps 9 but I doubt it). however I do not know if it corresponds to the grade level.

June 22nd, 2010, 06:46 PM	#8
crankinaway ninjette.org member Name: Sean Location: Vancouver, BC Canada Join Date: Jun 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250R Posts: 16	What you want to get is an alloy rod usually available at home depot, normally yellow plated and personally I would go either with a nylon or stover lock nut of equivalent grade. Alloy rod is very close to a grade 5 strength as opposed to the Shoguns included grade 2 material stud. I have not yet cut mine to length. Here is the thing though....the instructions say the rod is a 9/16 thread diameter, when actually it is 3/8-16 thread. I hope they have included the appropriate size rod for the kit. Can anyone confirm what size came out of the motor? Chances are it is metric tho.