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Old February 19th, 2010, 06:07 PM   #201
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Originally Posted by DarkNinja52 View Post
Mobile 5000 10w-40 and K&N 401 filter. The mobile 5000 shouldnt cause any problems correct?
what's mobile 5000?
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Old February 19th, 2010, 06:22 PM   #202
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what's mobile 5000?
I think he means Mobil clean 5000, its Mobil's dino oil(for cars). I use it in my car, but I would not use it in my Ninja.
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Old February 19th, 2010, 06:39 PM   #203
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yea thats what i mean, my bad. so dont use it? some people said you can use car dino oil in ur bike
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Old February 19th, 2010, 09:28 PM   #204
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Im no expert on the subject, but I don't think you should use car oil in your bike. If your going to use something besides moto oil, you should use the synthetic rotella provided they have not changed the formula. A lot of people have used rotella in their moto with no ill effects.
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Old February 19th, 2010, 09:34 PM   #205
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There's nothing wrong with using most car oil, you just need to make sure not to use the ones with that "energy-saving" icon on them. The additives in those can be uber-slippery, and cause motorcycles with wet clutches (like ours) to potentially behave strangely.
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Old February 19th, 2010, 09:39 PM   #206
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Thanks Alex. That's what I have heard but I definitely want to be super careful considering its my first bike and I bought her new. For the 1st service they put in kawasaki brand oil, should I bother getting some or is it just as good as car oil.

And I made sure it wasn't the energy conserving oil.
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Old February 19th, 2010, 09:40 PM   #207
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Quote:
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There's nothing wrong with using most car oil, you just need to make sure not to use the ones with that "energy-saving" icon on them. The additives in those can be uber-slippery, and cause motorcycles with wet clutches (like ours) to potentially behave strangely.
Cool, I thought that might be the case, but I was not sure.
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Old February 19th, 2010, 10:21 PM   #208
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http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Which_o...NOT_be_used%3F
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Old February 25th, 2010, 03:13 AM   #209
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The only thing I did different than what was posted about how to change the oil was I drained the oil from the plug shown and drained from the plug right next to the oil filter housing. Im guessing that is ok since oil came from both spots and may have drained old oil that might have been left if I had not done so.
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Old March 20th, 2010, 12:19 PM   #210
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I just changed my oil for the first time at 1000km, a little overdue, but oh well. anyway, i could only find shell rotella T6 not the regular T, so this is what i used, is this alright? also, when the engine is off and bike is standing up straight, the oil is JUST at the top of the sight level, too much oil or should i be ok? i also put in a K&N filter cuz it was the only one they had.
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Old March 20th, 2010, 12:27 PM   #211
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Keenan, is the oil you used synthetic? It is not really recommended to go synthetic before 1,000 miles=1,600 kms.
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Old March 20th, 2010, 12:30 PM   #212
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Keenan, is the oil you used synthetic? It is not really recommended to go synthetic before 1,000 miles=1,600 kms.
Yeah its full synthetic. Well i have heard from tons of different people, many different opinions of when to switch to synth. I feel that its not that big of a deal, and i have run my engine properly for that 1000km. The rings should be fairly set by now.
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Old March 20th, 2010, 12:59 PM   #213
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Can't seem to find anything but Rotella T 0w40 and 15w40 around here. Hopefully our locally Shell distributor might have some
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Old March 22nd, 2010, 07:14 PM   #214
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keenan84 View Post
I just changed my oil for the first time at 1000km, a little overdue, but oh well. anyway, i could only find shell rotella T6 not the regular T, so this is what i used, is this alright? also, when the engine is off and bike is standing up straight, the oil is JUST at the top of the sight level, too much oil or should i be ok? i also put in a K&N filter cuz it was the only one they had.
There is an oil change DIY here that is very useful. [EDIT: This is the DIY Oil change thread... I'm slow today :-p] After you start it for the first time and let it run for about 10 seconds, when you shut it off you will see that the oil level will have dropped, due to it soaking up the filter and engine parts. Then you need to top it off again.

To answer your question, by doing a Google search, you'll see that the T6 is okay, it is even JASO certified. Check out the updated Wikipedia page:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shell_Rotella_T

I guarantee you are 100% okay to run Synthetic early on. I've done this after doing extensive research. My personal opinion is you can put synthetic in it after you take it home from the dealer if you'd like.

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Old March 22nd, 2010, 09:34 PM   #215
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Originally Posted by Keenan84 View Post
I just changed my oil for the first time at 1000km, a little overdue, but oh well. anyway, i could only find shell rotella T6 not the regular T, so this is what i used, is this alright? also, when the engine is off and bike is standing up straight, the oil is JUST at the top of the sight level, too much oil or should i be ok? i also put in a K&N filter cuz it was the only one they had.
Just switched to Rotella T6 today myself. Though I am almost at 11,000 miles. Was using spectro before. There are 2 lines in the sight glass a max and a min. Don't want to be above the high (after oil change and bike has run a couple minutes to work its way through the system and filter), and obviously don't want to be below the min (lower line).

K&N filters are quality items. Would have put one in today if my local shop was open instead of my self inflicted aggravation.
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Old March 28th, 2010, 11:30 AM   #216
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How often is it best to change the oil, filter and rings? Ive changed the oil a few times in my bike and it now has 2k miles on it. Anything else besides the normal fluid checks should I do? Bike shop said something about bringing it to them to check valves. Is this needed or a waste of my money?
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Old March 28th, 2010, 11:39 AM   #217
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How often is it best to change the oil, filter and rings? Ive changed the oil a few times in my bike and it now has 2k miles on it. Anything else besides the normal fluid checks should I do? Bike shop said something about bringing it to them to check valves. Is this needed or a waste of my money?
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10577
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Old April 3rd, 2010, 05:48 PM   #218
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Originally Posted by paterick4o8 View Post
Another one to add:

Hiflofiltro: HF401


http://www.hiflofiltro.com/17.0.html?&L=0&sel_uid=639
just to add my 2 cents.. i went to do my 1st oil change today, and CT was out of K&N filters... i have a kawi filter, but no rings, so a buddy came over with a hiflo filter... it looks almost the same as the K&N and he said he read online somewhere that hiflo makes K&N?

anyways... the package clearly says on the outside that it replaces the Kawasaki: 16099-003. The filter was the right size, but once i got going i realized that the O rings didnt fit! The tiny one was ok, but the bigger one was too big.
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Old April 3rd, 2010, 06:28 PM   #219
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http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Oil_Filters
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Old April 3rd, 2010, 06:44 PM   #220
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yeah i just wanted to let people know my experience with that filter... i cant believe it says on the box that its the same, but the o ring was useless.

i'm doing early oil changes anyhow, cause i am breaking in my bike, so it wont be in there very long!
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Old April 3rd, 2010, 06:57 PM   #221
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Did my oil change last night with the new Rotella T6 and come to find out that i do not have a washer where the spring is and don't remember ever having one. When i take the whole bolt filter off i always put it on an old clean towel then take everything apart on it so i don't loose anything. Will have to go to the dealership and buy one along with a few crush washers too.

My shifting has greatly improved after changing from Kawasaki synthetic to Rotella T6. No more clunking just a little clunk going from neutral to first.
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Old April 3rd, 2010, 07:01 PM   #222
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is the washer inbetween the filter and spring one that we need to replace each time as well? i keep hearing about replacing the crush washer, but nothing about the other one.

p.s. what size is the crush washer?
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Old April 3rd, 2010, 07:07 PM   #223
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The washer between the filter and the spring does not need to be replaced as far as i know but i was just shocked that i didn't have one, i've never noticed it in the pics before. Someone mentioned here somewhere that it is a 12mm crush washer but i would just go to the dealership and buy them there since they're inexpensive and the dealership would know exactly which ones.
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Old April 3rd, 2010, 09:14 PM   #224
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come to find out that i do not have a washer where the spring is and don't remember ever having one.
the washer pictured here that is between the spring and filter?



if so, next time you do an oil change, have a replacement ready and install it. perhaps the washer got stuck to the filter the first time you changed the oil? in any case, I would install one next time.
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Old April 3rd, 2010, 10:06 PM   #225
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My bike came with two washers. Maybe they gave me yours?
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Old April 4th, 2010, 07:30 AM   #226
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just to add my 2 cents.. i went to do my 1st oil change today, and CT was out of K&N filters... i have a kawi filter, but no rings, so a buddy came over with a hiflo filter... it looks almost the same as the K&N and he said he read online somewhere that hiflo makes K&N?

anyways... the package clearly says on the outside that it replaces the Kawasaki: 16099-003. The filter was the right size, but once i got going i realized that the O rings didnt fit! The tiny one was ok, but the bigger one was too big.

Do any of you fellow canadians have an idea of the WIX or Napa part number for the thier filter? Went by yesterday, with a bunch of cross-ref numbers and left empty handed.
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Old April 4th, 2010, 07:36 AM   #227
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Has anyone had experience with Royal Purple break-in oil? I know that royal purple is known worldwide for it's highest quality oils.. but has any of you guys tried this?

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Old April 4th, 2010, 07:55 AM   #228
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I have not tried any type of break-in oil but today or tomorrow I am going to change my oil and bought Royal Purple 10W-40 full synthetic. I usualy buy Mobil-1 10W-40 full synthetic but they were out. I will let you know if I feel any difference.
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Old April 4th, 2010, 06:56 PM   #229
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if so, next time you do an oil change, have a replacement ready and install it. perhaps the washer got stuck to the filter the first time you changed the oil? in any case, I would install one next time.
Yup that's the one. I'll pick a couple up next time just in case they disappear
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Old April 4th, 2010, 07:12 PM   #230
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what the heck is break in oil? lol... i'm such a newbie... i get that you use regular till its broken in, then synthetic, but whats the diff with break in oil?
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Old April 4th, 2010, 07:21 PM   #231
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And i thought oil was oil...

don't worry joyce this is the first i've heard of this break in oil too
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Old April 4th, 2010, 07:22 PM   #232
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And i thought oil was oil...

don't worry joyce this is the first i've heard of this break in oil too
whew! there's so much to learn! and everywhere i turn everyone has a different opinion
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Old April 4th, 2010, 08:50 PM   #233
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Joyce,
just stick with conventional oil (dino) and switch to synthetic after the break-in period is over and you will be fine. Don't worry about "break-in oil". That's mainly for high-performance outomobile engines that get rebuilt.
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Old April 6th, 2010, 12:15 PM   #234
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Dunno about the break-in oil, but I've been very pleased with the Royal Purple 10w-40. Clutch shifts like warm butter in every gear but N to 1 which still has that 'thunk' but it's a lot lighter than other ninjettes I've heard. No slippage to mention at 11,500mi.
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Old April 6th, 2010, 04:36 PM   #235
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Do any of you fellow canadians have an idea of the WIX or Napa part number for the thier filter? Went by yesterday, with a bunch of cross-ref numbers and left empty handed.
I went to a local parts shop and asked for WIX # 24941. Didn't get one cause the warehouse was closed that day and had to wait so went to crappy tire and got the K&N instead.
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Old April 7th, 2010, 07:04 AM   #236
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what the heck is break in oil? lol... i'm such a newbie... i get that you use regular till its broken in, then synthetic, but whats the diff with break in oil?
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/When_ca...nthetic_oil%3F

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Do_I_re...k-in_period%3F

This will help you better understand the purpose of "break in"

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Old April 13th, 2010, 02:50 PM   #237
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Look what i found today. Came home after working and saw an oil filter box from my second oil change still sitting next to my carport. Was waiting for hazardous waste pick up in my area to dispose of it. Opened the box and voila just like kkim suspected, my washer

Found a little surface rust on it though since it was buried in the snow but at least now i have a part to show my dealer to get another one.
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Old April 13th, 2010, 04:13 PM   #238
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The same thing must have happened to mine because I don't remember having one the last time I changed my oil.
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Old April 14th, 2010, 07:44 PM   #239
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This is for Rage42, since i dont have his email.... he wanted to know what my rotella T bottle looks like!


BTW, i bought mine at a Wal-mart for $19.99 (1 gal. thats 2 oil changes roughly)

hope this helps, if pics arent good enuff... just let me know and ill retake some and update them! OKie?

ttyl

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Anyone read the manual? I think it said do not use oil that service SM vehicles. It saids to use SL
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Old April 14th, 2010, 10:08 PM   #240
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Anyone read the manual? I think it said do not use oil that service SM vehicles. It saids to use SL
that's not what my manual reads.
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