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Old January 1st, 2015, 01:55 PM   #1
The Red Scourge
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Possible Shifting Issue

I couldn't find this referenced on the interwebs so I thought I'd get y'all's take on it. Sometimes when shifting (upshifting more than downshifting) it doesn't get into the next gear smoothly. Sometimes the lever clicks into gear easily like it's supposed to. Other times it feels like it's hitting something halfway through the motion of getting into gear. I may not be explaining this correctly but it almost feels like a crunch. Is this the clutch starting to go? Any input would be appreciated. Happy riding in the new year!
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Old January 1st, 2015, 02:20 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by The Red Scourge View Post
I couldn't find this referenced on the interwebs so I thought I'd get y'all's take on it. Sometimes when shifting (upshifting more than downshifting) it doesn't get into the next gear smoothly. Sometimes the lever clicks into gear easily like it's supposed to. Other times it feels like it's hitting something halfway through the motion of getting into gear. I may not be explaining this correctly but it almost feels like a crunch. Is this the clutch starting to go? Any input would be appreciated. Happy riding in the new year!
To quote my prom date " be sure to lube it really good"

Make sure that the clutch cable and shift lever and rod is properly adjusted, and inspect all parts for damage, before your do anything else. (Has the bike downed? Dropped?)

When was the last time the clutch cable was lubricated? And while your lubricating that, do the throttle and choke cables as well..

These need to be lubricated just as much as your chain does, but not as often, I personally do mine at the start , and middle of the season, since your in Florida, I'd do them every 6 months. Not only will it make for smooth operating, but help extend the life of your cables, which is probably one of the most overlooked items on the bike.

How many miles on the bike? Is most of your riding around town?, commuting? Etc.... These are factors you need to think about.

Another advantage to lubricating all the cables is you can also and need to inspect them, are they starting to fray? Cable housings in good shape? No holes, etc.....

While this may seem like a lot, isn't not, and it might just save you from a broken clutch cable, which really sucks when your out riding.

Hope this helps, any more questions, comments or concerns just type away.


This is what I use,

Bike Aid Dri-Slide 4oz. Lube with Needle Nozzle
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001F2Y25G
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Old January 1st, 2015, 05:50 PM   #3
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I changed the clutch cable out about 6 months ago. I do need to get a cable luber though. I don't think it's that. I messed with the adjustment on it and nothing changed. The bike has about 30,000 miles on it, mostly freeway riding. It was dropped once although this issue has come up more recently. I'm going to change the oil tomorrow and see if that helps.
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Old January 1st, 2015, 06:09 PM   #4
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When it's in gear with the clutch "in" does it pull forward?

I would check and lube the linkages as Ghostt mentioned, and also confirm it's adjusted properly.

Take a look at the photos of what it should look like in this section - http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_...the_shifter%3F

Related info - http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Controls_%26_Cables

What oil are you planning to use?
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Old January 1st, 2015, 07:19 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by jkv45 View Post
When it's in gear with the clutch "in" does it pull forward?

I would check and lube the linkages as Ghostt mentioned, and also confirm it's adjusted properly.

Take a look at the photos of what it should look like in this section - http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_...the_shifter%3F

Related info - http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Controls_%26_Cables

What oil are you planning to use?
O man here we go another oil thread jack LOL

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Old January 1st, 2015, 07:27 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by The Red Scourge View Post
I changed the clutch cable out about 6 months ago. I do need to get a cable luber though. I don't think it's that. I messed with the adjustment on it and nothing changed. The bike has about 30,000 miles on it, mostly freeway riding. It was dropped once although this issue has come up more recently. I'm going to change the oil tomorrow and see if that helps.
One piece of friendly advice,NEVER ASSUME it's okay, take the time check it, and definitely rule it out or not.

most of the issues, are due to just either not, checking, or fully checking. The final choice is yours, it's your time, your money, I'm not your mother, or buying your parts, I just offer my advice based on my experiences.
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Old January 1st, 2015, 07:34 PM   #7
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O man here we go another oil thread jack LOL
Lots and lots of people don't know what to use and what not to use...unless you tell them...and they listen....

Some of what he's experiencing could be related to using the wrong oil, so I wanted to check what he plans to use.
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Old January 1st, 2015, 07:41 PM   #8
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Lots and lots of people don't know what to use and what not to use...unless you tell them...and they listen....

Some of what he's experiencing could be related to using the wrong oil, so I wanted to check what he plans to use.
True, but wrong oil, generally starts off with my clutch is slipping after oil change, but your right, and I agree 100%.

With that said, with no bias to brand, type, etc... I'll just say any 10w-40 to 20w50 rated JASO-MA/MA2 oil will do just fine. and since he's located in Florida, I'd go 20w50
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Old January 1st, 2015, 08:37 PM   #9
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Ok, I'll make sure to check the adjustment and all the linkages again. I use Rotella T6, I'd have to check the viscosity though. I don't remember what I used last oil change.
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Old January 1st, 2015, 09:24 PM   #10
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Ok, I'll make sure to check the adjustment and all the linkages again. I use Rotella T6, I'd have to check the viscosity though. I don't remember what I used last oil change.
Oil is fine I've run that for many years in my bikes, not one issue ever, I run the T6 synthetic

http://www.shell.com/rotella/product...=rt_us_HWforOO

Link to original page on YouTube.

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Old January 1st, 2015, 09:26 PM   #11
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Ok, I'll make sure to check the adjustment and all the linkages again. I use Rotella T6, I'd have to check the viscosity though. I don't remember what I used last oil change.
That's my (EDIT: standard) recommendation for the Ninja (exception - racing). It's 5W-40 - which is fine for all temps - and a really good idea for low temps.

With newer synthetic oils, and a water-cooled engine, high ambient temps don't mean you should use heavier oil. Synthetic isn't going to breakdown from high heat like conventional will, but a water-cooled engine shouldn't get into that range anyway unless there's a problem.

I can't think of any reason to use a 20W-50 in the Ninja.

Last futzed with by jkv45; January 2nd, 2015 at 06:27 AM.
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