Lighting Issues. Flashers/Turn Signals Help.

[Dahaka]

I have searched this site and reviewed some of the threads and I've been chasing. Fix one problem, another arises. I just thought I would make my own thread and ask.

I bought this bike and it already had aftermarket LEDs installed. It had been laid over so one side was broken. As I was replacing the fairings, I decided to replace the turn signal. As I was disconnecting the old light, I noticed it was wired into something just wired to the frame completely covered in electrical tape. Turns out that was the OEM lights. I didn't know anything at the time but apparently they were acting as resistors or something. Anyways I threw them away and just wired up the leds. After that all four lights just remained on when the turn signals were activated. One thread on here said I needed a relay. I purchased and installed a tridon ep34 relay. Now the lights just serve as hazards when the turn signals are activated. Another thread on here said I needed a diode harness/kit. I called one bike shop and he said he never even heard of a diode harness. Then i called another and they said that they had to order one in, so idk. Another parts guy said I needed to buy resistors from an electronics store.

So I'm just here asking some advice. My bike shop said it would be 100 just to look at it and it's a winter project anyways so thought maybe someone could steer me in the right direction.

Thanks for your time and input.

Matthew

[Ghostt]

Look here

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/My_LED_...27t_work_right

Any questions feel free to contact me.

[Alex]

/moved to new-gen tech

[InvisiBill]

The stock relay will flash at the wrong rate with low-draw LED signals (by design, because their load is closer to a dead bulb than a good one). A new flasher relay will fix that.

The dash indicator is actually hooked to both sides' signals. This works fine with the higher load of bulbs, but causes problems with the low-draw LEDs that light up more easily. This results in the 4-way flashing when you activate either side's blinker. A diode kit isolates the dash indicator and fixes this (and works fine with stock signals too, so I suggest everyone do it).

Ghostt's link has info about both.

[Kurgan]

Just asking this here to avoid making a new topic pretty much about the same kind if thing....

When you get a new set of LED turn signals that are supposed to be "universal" (not made specifically for the 250) and the wires are extremely short, but the stock wires are really long, should I just splice the short LED wires into the long stock wires?

Or is there some kind of adapter that would be better than cutting up the stock wires? I kinda want to avoid cutting things up if I don't have to.

Would it be a good idea just to get a set of replacement wires (at least for the front signals anyways), and cut those up and keep the stock set handy?

[InvisiBill]

Originally Posted by Kurgan

Just asking this here to avoid making a new topic pretty much about the same kind if thing....

When you get a new set of LED turn signals that are supposed to be "universal" (not made specifically for the 250) and the wires are extremely short, but the stock wires are really long, should I just splice the short LED wires into the long stock wires?

Or is there some kind of adapter that would be better than cutting up the stock wires? I kinda want to avoid cutting things up if I don't have to.

Would it be a good idea just to get a set of replacement wires (at least for the front signals anyways), and cut those up and keep the stock set handy?

The short answer is "do whatever you want". As long as there's a sufficient conductive path from the battery to the bulb, the details of the wires and connectors you choose to use don't really matter.

I'm kinda anal about stuff though, so I don't like to chop up factory parts that are in perfect condition. I buy matching OEM connectors to splice onto aftermarket accessories or buy used OEM parts on eBay to cut up instead. Even with all the mods on my bike, there are only two small things that can't go back to 100% stock by bolting on parts that are currently in my garage.

I'm not familiar with the specifics of the 250's turn signal wiring setup, but based on your description, I'd either find a donor set of OEM signals (possibly already broken) to scavenge or just get my own wire and OEM connectors to extend the new signals' leads (depending on which method was cheaper/easier). That would leave me with my original wiring and signals still able to be plugged back together if needed.