Cleaning solvent before applying chain lube

[nickjpass]

I have found that if I wash off and dry the solvent I use for cleaning my chain, the lube will stick better once applied. The last time I used isopryl alcohol to rinse off the solvent, but that nay damage o rings. So what should I use? I don't think water would be affective since most chain solvents are water displacers. Ideas?

[choneofakind]

Water. Big volume of water >>> a little bit of solvent.

[flitecontrol]

I use diesel fuel since I have a tractor. Kerosene or lamp oil (sold at Walmart) can also be used, and they won't hurt the O-rings. Wipe it off well before applying chain lube.

[alex.s]

Originally Posted by flitecontrol

I use diesel fuel since I have a tractor. Kerosene or lamp oil (sold at Walmart) can also be used, and they won't hurt the O-rings. Wipe it off well before applying chain lube.

it actually does degrade the o rings. you can test this with an old chain... let it sit in fuel for a day or two. no more o ring. soaking kerosene in a rag to use to wipe the **** off the side of the chain however... you aren't soaking the orings in the solvent and then you get rid of it right away. so typically it doesn't do much... but it does do something.

lubing an oring chain is more for keeping the orings wet... the lube that counts is behind the orings...

[Rifleman]

this is the stuff I use, I'd look for something that is chain specific... I know the stuff to clean K&N air filters is the same, just more expensive. You can't get this stuff anymore, but it's great, should be something like it available somewhere.

spray it on, rub with brush or rag, wash off with soap and water, let dry... apply chain lube.

[flitecontrol]

Originally Posted by alex.s

it actually does degrade the o rings. you can test this with an old chain... let it sit in fuel for a day or two. no more o ring. soaking kerosene in a rag to use to wipe the **** off the side of the chain however... you aren't soaking the orings in the solvent and then you get rid of it right away. so typically it doesn't do much... but it does do something.

lubing an oring chain is more for keeping the orings wet... the lube that counts is behind the orings...

You assume that since gasoline can damage O-rings not formulated to resist it, that kerosene and other petroleum products will also harm O-rings. That assumption is incorrect. Here are a couple of quotes from the Regina chain site: http://www.reginachain.it/eng/use_an...how_to03.shtml

"WARNING

• Avoid the use of steam, gasoline or solvents.
When cleaning O-Ring chains, avoid the use of hard brushes or other methods that could damage the rubber O-Rings (compressed air should be kept at 50 cm/2 ft distance minimum).

• After washing, immediately lubricate the chain"

"Cleaning

If the chain is not too dirty, the operation of lubrication is normally sufficient to clean the chain.

When the accumulation of dirt on the chain (sand, mud, asphalt particles or other foreign materials) is excessive, the chain must be washed with a brush and kerosene. After washing, the chain has to be dried immediately with a jet of compressed air."

[nickjpass]

I want to know how to remove the solvent...I have plenty of things to clean the chain with, but how do I remove the cleaenr before applying lube? It doesn't make sense to spray with water to remove it, bevuase when the chain gets wet, thats one of the times I clean and lube it.

[cadd]

Originally Posted by flitecontrol

I use diesel fuel since I have a tractor.

+1

My buddy uses oil to heat his home. If I remember correctly, it's "#2 oil" that is being burnt in the furnace. I usually just drain a quart if oil from the tank in his basement when I'm there and that'll last me a good riding season.

I just wet my rag with the diesel and clean the chain with it until I can touch the chain without getting my hands dirty. I then let it the chain air out and evaporate overnight in my garage before applying a thin layer of lube the next morning.

I've been in using this method to clean my bicycle chains as well. So far, no adverse effects. My current bicycle chain has close to 1,500 miles and the front chainrings and rear cogs have almost double that mileage with little signs of wear.

[alex.s]

Originally Posted by flitecontrol

You assume that since gasoline can damage O-rings not formulated to resist it, that kerosene and other petroleum products will also harm O-rings. That assumption is incorrect. Here are a couple of quotes from the Regina chain site: http://www.reginachain.it/eng/use_an...how_to03.shtml

"WARNING

• Avoid the use of steam, gasoline or solvents.
When cleaning O-Ring chains, avoid the use of hard brushes or other methods that could damage the rubber O-Rings (compressed air should be kept at 50 cm/2 ft distance minimum).

• After washing, immediately lubricate the chain"

"Cleaning

If the chain is not too dirty, the operation of lubrication is normally sufficient to clean the chain.

When the accumulation of dirt on the chain (sand, mud, asphalt particles or other foreign materials) is excessive, the chain must be washed with a brush and kerosene. After washing, the chain has to be dried immediately with a jet of compressed air."

why do you think they recommend immediately removing the solvent.

resists doesn't mean wont degrade. it means it doesn't do it as fast.

[nickjpass]

What does alcohol do to rubber. Isopryl.

[flitecontrol]

Originally Posted by alex.s

why do you think they recommend immediately removing the solvent.

Ask Regina, it's their statement.

resists doesn't mean wont degrade. it means it doesn't do it as fast.

I used the word "resist", in line with many manufacturer's use of the term. It gives them a legal out if their product doesn't perform as well as the customer thinks it should.

[Bigballsofpaint]

Originally Posted by cadd

+1

My buddy uses oil to heat his home. If I remember correctly, it's "#2 oil" that is being burnt in the furnace. I usually just drain a quart if oil from the tank in his basement when I'm there and that'll last me a good riding season.

I just wet my rag with the diesel and clean the chain with it until I can touch the chain without getting my hands dirty. I then let it the chain air out and evaporate overnight in my garage before applying a thin layer of lube the next morning.

I've been in using this method to clean my bicycle chains as well. So far, no adverse effects. My current bicycle chain has close to 1,500 miles and the front chainrings and rear cogs have almost double that mileage with little signs of wear.

Im only quoting this because i have heard some people use Heavy gear oil, like a mobil 1 90w or something. They have it on a rag and after every ride or every 100, 200, whatever their interval is they just wipe the rag soaked in oil on the chain. The oil will catch and fling off the dirt/sand etc, so you dont really even need to "clean" it before applying. All that matters is you do it often, so the chain is not dry.

I use a scottoiler, same principle but it takes my lazy ass out of the equation, but the same principle applies where you can just wipe the chain with the oil after your rides, unless you ride hundreds of miles in a day that is. i just fill the resevoir when needed. My chain stays very clean (it looks black, but it wipes off super easy, nothing is ever caked on), and ive only had to adjust it once in 8000 miles, even then it was on the high side of being good, but i adjusted it anyway. They claim longer life and i believe it with what i have noticed. @NevadaWolf when is the last time you had to replace your chain? Have you noticed longer chain life and less adjustments needed?

[NevadaWolf]

I'm not a good case study as I stupidly let the reservoir run out so I went half way across the country with no oil. My chain stretched. I think it had about 22k on it.

The rear sprocket was just changed out after 48k and the front sprocket had two changes, one at 39k and the other at 9k (due to me swapping everything after I got back from the trip).

Previously (before the Scottoiler), my first chain lasted 12k before it stretched. The second chain went 14k before I got tired of replacing the master link clip and went back to a rivet style. The third chain is the one I killed prematurely.

I think in all that time I only adjusted the chain once or twice and that was before the Scottoiler.

[Bigballsofpaint]

well then, just so you know ive heard of people replacing the scottoiler oil with actual gear oil to same some $, they said it made no difference. So if you run out on the road, dont sweat it and just find the closest autozone.

[garth285]

I run Motul almost everywhere... their stuff even smells good!!!

Their Chain clean is one of the best I've ever used and perfectly safe on any chain.

[choneofakind]

lol, you guys are missing the point. he wants to get the solvent off the chain before applying fresh lube. He's not asking what solvent or lube to use.

[Bigballsofpaint]

On my 250 i use muc-off chain cleaner then, its basically like brake cleaner where it just evaporates after a few minutes and then i spray on my bel ray wax.

[gptoyz]

you don't want to use brake cleaner or anything that can dry out the o-rings between the rollers

My procedure:
Spray wd40 on chain and rear sprocket
-Take clean towels and spin the rear tire and wrap the towel around the chain and allow the -chain to slide through the towel
-clean the rear sprocket teeth (be careful and do this slowly so you don't lose a finger
-keep cleaning chain until wd40 has been cleaned off
spray chain lube (aim for the rollers and the orings between the links/rollers
-spin the wheel so that the chain lube gets on the sprocket teeth and rollers
-lightly wipe off excessive chain lube

Once every 3 chain lubes, I will take off the front sprocket cover and clean front sprocket area. This is really important because the build up can get excessive and damage the seals of the output shaft which is where oil leaks usually originate from