DIY- Oil Change - Page 3

kkim · May 11th, 2009, 11:18 PM

I buy mine from the autoparts store. they have crush washers of different sizes there. sorry, can't remember what size that washer is.

Sound Wave · May 11th, 2009, 11:19 PM

no doubt they were cheaper than what the dealership charged me... although i don't remember how much they were.

SpyderGirl · May 13th, 2009, 08:53 AM

Attached is a PDF that I created for the information posted here so that you can easily print this out for reference.

chess · May 17th, 2009, 06:58 AM

I just did my second oil change at 600, and I wanted to just drop in and say thanks for taking the time. I don't think I would have ever taken the assembly apart to find the small o-ring without this thread...though I'm kind of convinced that as long as it's not leaking, it's no big deal. Every o-ring I've taken off has been pristine, and I wouldn't hesitate to reuse them a few times if my filters didn't come with them.

I was happy to find much less "junk" in this oil change...looked like a few flecks of paint, but no metal.

And for lack of a better local option, I've been using Fram filters (I know) from Wal-Mart. But I figure with these changes at such short intervals, the filter doesn't really have much time to break down. At 1000 - 1500, I'll switch to Rotella, and I'll keep stopping by O'reilly's to check for Wix filters, but they never seem to have them.

At what point are you guys planning to go regular intervals on your oil changes? 2-3K with synthetic? I ask, because I'll be racking up the miles commuting to work...probably 700-1000 per month.

kkim · May 17th, 2009, 10:07 AM

If you can't find the WIX filters, NAPA Gold line of filters are made by WIX.

After all the break in oil changes are over with, I'm planning to change mine every 3k miles, but if you are commuting and don't really push your bike hard, I'd consider 5K change intervals as long as your are using a full synthetic.

paterick4o8 · May 20th, 2009, 10:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kkim

install the engine oil drain plug with a new gasket

so I've never done this on a bike but will tomorrow. we have to buy a new gasket also?

ehh, think I just found the answer in the manual "Replace the drain bolt gaskets with new ones if they are
damaged."

B2FiNiTY · May 20th, 2009, 11:01 PM

you don't have to every change but doing it every once in awhile is good for piece of mind. there was once on a used car that I bought that I decided not to change it and it ended up not sealing and oil started dripping so I had to basically do half an oil change all over again. better safe than sorry!

kkim · May 21st, 2009, 01:18 AM

you are actually supposed to change the drain bolt crush washer at each oil change. The washer is designed to deform under pressure and seal as the drain bolt is torqued to spec. It is a "use once" designed washer.

paterick4o8 · May 21st, 2009, 02:59 AM

hmm. so can we just pick one of these up at the auto store? does anyone know the size specs on this gasket so that I don't have to go run to the store in the middle of my oil change to show them the exact gasket I need?

ScorpionNinja · May 24th, 2009, 05:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Verus Cidere

Quick question: Is it a problem to have an oil different from 10W-40? I was told by a mechanic at a local Yamaha dealership I get tune-ups and such from that I should use 20W-50. From what I can tell, it's supposed to be better for high-RPM engines. Is that right?

Yes if you live in like AZ.

ScorpionNinja · May 24th, 2009, 05:43 PM

Hey nice write up! Heres 2 other things about well ANY oil change you might find useful.
1) If all you have are Wrenches to take off the bolt/drain plug, and NEED more leverage, take another wrench (one that is 1-2 sizes near the one your using), and Fit it into the other one.... open-end, fits into the box-end or vise versa! (i dont have a camera, sorry cant give Pics)
This will give ya more leverage to break a bolt loose!

2) b4 you try and take off the drain plug, MAKE SURE that the oil fill CAP, is Fully On, screwed in. Cuz if you have the Cap OFF, then as you remove the Bolt/plug... itll create a 'vaccaum' and cause the Oil too ' JET out' and make things more Messy! hehe

ScorpionNinja · May 24th, 2009, 05:50 PM

Oh for my First Oil change, at about 610 miles, i took my bike too the dealer.

I dont have a bike stand,etc at the time, as i had them tighten up the chain slack too! I had them use reg 10w-40 Kawasaki 4T oil. Now im not a huge believer in synth Oils... im old school, and every Car ive ever had, reg oil changed 3k miles... ive Never had a Engine go bad,etc... but, whats your guys take on syth oils for motorcycles?
Keep in mind, i use my bike for getting too work, and just cruisin' around town and joy riding! I DONT race tracks and such, so i dont see a synth oil needed.

So if its 'Best' too use synth oils on my 250R, what mileage should i start using them, and what kinda Brand 10w-40 be Overall best? (price,performence,etc)

Thanks!

craha · June 6th, 2009, 06:29 PM

Great DIY, thanks. Everything worked smoothly and as described, until...

I tried using my torque wrench (set to 14.5 ft/lbs) to torque the bolts. I've torqued the wheels on my car and have always heard a very positive clicking when torque is reached. I didn't hear that when tightening these bolts. After tightening a bit more, I got scared and stopped. I'm not really sure at this point if they are over tightened, under tightened, or OK.

After starting for the second time to as described, I noticed smoke coming out from somewhere. Smells like burning oil but I'm not sure if it's some that I missed from draining that is heating up around the exhaust or some kind of new leak?

kkim · June 6th, 2009, 10:01 PM

what size torques wrench did you use? what is the range of values it can handle?

On the smoke... I'd guess you must have splashed some on the exhaust and it's just burning off. If it continues, I'd be concerned. Trace down the source of the smoke if it continues.

VeX · June 6th, 2009, 11:30 PM

Quick observation: When torque values are less then 20 ft./lbs. or so I suggest getting a 3/8" torque wrench that measures in inch/lbs. Most torque wrenches become very inaccurate when you start approaching low values. One time I half assed it on an Mopar engine and used my 1/2" torque wrench for a 10 ft/lbs (120 inch/lbs) camshaft cap bolt and snapped the bolt.

Pulling my 3/8" torque wrench revealed the bolts were closer to 12-14 ft./lbs.

And as kkim pointed out, the header runs close to the oil filter cover and it's easy to splash a little oil on there

craha · June 7th, 2009, 05:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kkim

what size torques wrench did you use? what is the range of values it can handle?

On the smoke... I'd guess you must have splashed some on the exhaust and it's just burning off. If it continues, I'd be concerned. Trace down the source of the smoke if it continues.

The wrench is 1/2" with a step down adapter to 3/8" so I can use it with my 17mm socket. The range is 10 to 150 ft/lbs.

Today I took the exhaust side fairing off and ran it for a few minutes. There was still some smoke but not as much. I even tried my old Master Mechanic pointer style in/lb torque wrench to check. The bolts are definitely tight enough.

Now I am just worried they are way too tight. Not sure if the over tightening is causing the o-rings not to seal. Also wondering I can see a little oil along that seam but not sure if it was there to begin with or not. No apparent dripping anywhere. I've been using newsprint under while running to check for drips.

kkim · June 7th, 2009, 05:30 PM

A 1/2" drive will definitely not be "sensitive" enough at that low end range. I suggest a 3/8" drive or a 1/4" drive wrench that will cover that range. Torque wrenches are not too accurate at the extremes of their stated ranges.

Wipe the seam the looks wet and recheck after awhile to see if it's wet again. If it's sealed properly, it shouldn't look wet once you wipe it clean.

craha · June 7th, 2009, 05:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VeX

Quick observation: When torque values are less then 20 ft./lbs. or so I suggest getting a 3/8" torque wrench that measures in inch/lbs. Most torque wrenches become very inaccurate when you start approaching low values. One time I half assed it on an Mopar engine and used my 1/2" torque wrench for a 10 ft/lbs (120 inch/lbs) camshaft cap bolt and snapped the bolt.

Pulling my 3/8" torque wrench revealed the bolts were closer to 12-14 ft./lbs.

And as kkim pointed out, the header runs close to the oil filter cover and it's easy to splash a little oil on there

Looks like I might have to loosen and re-torque. Is there any damage I could have caused over tightening other than snapping the bolt?

craha · June 7th, 2009, 05:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kkim

A 1/2" drive will definitely not be "sensitive" enough at that low end range. I suggest a 3/8" drive or a 1/4" drive wrench that will cover that range. Torque wrenches are not too accurate at the extremes of their stated ranges.

Wipe the seam the looks wet and recheck after awhile to see if it's wet again. If it's sealed properly, it shouldn't look wet once you wipe it clean.

Thanks for the advice. Looks like I need a new torque wrench!

Do you think I can just loosen the filter bolt and re-tighten to appropriate torque or do I need to start all over? I could probably take the oil drain bolt off and quickly replace the crush washer without losing too much oil. I do have an extra bottle. Any thoughts?

kkim · June 7th, 2009, 06:04 PM

if you're not leaking anything, leave things alone till your next oil change. in the meantime, get yourself an appropriate torque wrench for the required torque values.

I own 1/2, 3/8 and 1/4 inch drive wrenches to cover most of what I do in my garage.

craha · June 7th, 2009, 07:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kkim

if you're not leaking anything, leave things alone till your next oil change. in the meantime, get yourself an appropriate torque wrench for the required torque values.

I own 1/2, 3/8 and 1/4 inch drive wrenches to cover most of what I do in my garage.

Just went on a test ride and everything seems OK, no leaking or smoke as far as I can tell.

As far as the wrench, I have a 3/8" that reads in inch/lbs. I'm going to look for a 3/8" with foot/lbs for a more accurate reading. I'll probably do my next service around 3500. Thanks again for all your help!

noche_caliente · June 7th, 2009, 08:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by craha

Just went on a test ride and everything seems OK, no leaking or smoke as far as I can tell.

As far as the wrench, I have a 3/8" that reads in inch/lbs. I'm going to look for a 3/8" with foot/lbs for a more accurate reading. I'll probably do my next service around 3500. Thanks again for all your help!

Craig - inch lbs is no less accurate. 14.5 ft lbs = 174 inch lbs
all you do is multiply by 12

craha · June 7th, 2009, 08:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by noche_caliente

Craig - inch lbs is no less accurate. 14.5 ft lbs = 174 inch lbs
all you do is multiply by 12

True, I've always just multiplied in the past. The problem of accuracy is really about the increments on my in/lb wrench jumping from 100 to 200 with only one little line between. I'd like to find something with better/more increments and figured while I'm at it a 3/8" ft/lb wrench might not be a bad addition.

I also have a click type with the twist handle to set torque which seems possibly a better option than the pointer type. Maybe they both work fine though...

noche_caliente · June 7th, 2009, 08:30 PM

I have the click type and can set every inch - I got it at sears and have been very happy with it

craha · June 7th, 2009, 11:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by noche_caliente

I have the click type and can set every inch - I got it at sears and have been very happy with it

Wow, that is very precise! I'll have to check it out, thanks.

richierich781 · June 8th, 2009, 09:58 PM

i did my first oil change today @ 620 miles. thanks for the great write up kim. btw thanks again for the service manual u emailed me. im saving me some money having to do the 600 mile service myself with the help of my pops who's a pretty good mechanic.

Twinck · July 11th, 2009, 12:53 AM

First oil change today at 75km, glad i did as the oil that came out looked putrid

.. could only find semi synthetic 10w40 out of 6 bike/auto supply stores.. will be doing the next change at around 500km ..

I did make one mistake, took out the sump bolt next to the oil filter first instead of the drain plug, re-attached and torqued up to 14.5 ft/lb, hopefully didn't do anything major :/

now running the engine up to around 6k rpm, does anyone know if i should be able to do 100 km/h without damaging the engine during the break-in ?

Thanks

Tom

kkim · July 11th, 2009, 01:25 AM

Tom,

You'll be fine running the bike all the way up to redline during break in. Some break in philosophies encourage it, so running your bike anything less than that is acceptable. You are doing right by changing the oil often during the break in period. I changed mine 3 times before 600 miles.

g21-30 · July 11th, 2009, 01:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Twinck

could only find semi synthetic 10w40 out of 6 bike/auto supply stores.. will be doing the next change at around 500km ..

You can use any oil, if it's not energy conserving. Check this thread:

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10346

almost40 · July 11th, 2009, 02:11 PM

what kkim said

I only use motorcycle oil. To each his own.

M-Oorb · July 22nd, 2009, 08:51 AM

Ok so I didnt know where to post this question and this thread seemed like a good spot. So it seems like Rotella T can not be found anymore in or around my town. I have a little bit left(maybe for half an oil change) of a gallon that I bought. Would it be ok to mix this synthetic with another synthetic of the same weight (say Castrol Syntec) in the same oil change?

NJD022588 · July 22nd, 2009, 09:06 AM

You can probably order Rotella T online somewhere.

M-Oorb · July 22nd, 2009, 09:40 AM

Yea your probably right but I feel like shipping would end up costing quite a bit due to the weight. If I find that the oils available to me at walmart or an auto parts store are not up to the same quality I may end up doing that but I'll give this stuff a try.

If in fact I cant mix these oils then I'll go order some Shell.

BlueRaven · July 22nd, 2009, 09:47 AM

Does anyone know who makes Kawasaki synthetic?

noche_caliente · July 22nd, 2009, 11:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by M-Oorb

If I find that the oils available to me at walmart or an auto parts store are not up to the same quality I may end up doing that but I'll give this stuff a try.

Where have you been buying the Rotella? The only place that I've seen it is Walmart....

kkim · July 22nd, 2009, 11:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by M-Oorb

Yea your probably right but I feel like shipping would end up costing quite a bit due to the weight. If I find that the oils available to me at walmart or an auto parts store are not up to the same quality I may end up doing that but I'll give this stuff a try.

If in fact I cant mix these oils then I'll go order some Shell.

You most likely could, but I wouldn't. You never know what reaction mixing of different brands of oils might bring. Just buy 2 qts of whatever oil you want to try and use that.

M-Oorb · July 22nd, 2009, 12:13 PM

Yea I bought it from Walmart but they no longer carry it

...maybe I should try a different wal-mart?

Yea I was thinking that but I couldn't wrap my head around a reaction occuring if both synthetic and the same weight. I guess any kinda special thing they add in for "anti-sludge" or any other BS they say so people buy their product...

NJD022588 · July 22nd, 2009, 02:14 PM

The only place I have found it is Walmart

M-Oorb · July 22nd, 2009, 02:52 PM

Alright then time to find a new wal-mart...

Ryosen11 · July 22nd, 2009, 05:16 PM

The only way to get an accurate oil level reading is with the bike in an absolute vertical position... not on its sidestand.

After filling the oil, is it ok to leave the bike on the rear stand(vertical but slightly raised rear) for accurate reading through the window or does it need to be off?

June 7th, 2009, 08:30 PM	#104
noche_caliente ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Kim Location: mundo de ensueño Join Date: Nov 2008 Motorcycle(s): '08 250 Posts: A lot.	I have the click type and can set every inch - I got it at sears and have been very happy with it __________________________________________________ Progrip tank pad, blue rim stripes, blue Pazzos, Roaring Toyz lowering kit, Puig DB in dark smoke, Cortech sport tail, super mini tank, and saddlebags, OES swingarm spools and Intuitive frame sliders

July 11th, 2009, 02:11 PM	#110
almost40 ninjette.org Monkey Spank Name: Kevin Location: Illinois Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2008 250R Track-Bike Woodcraft clip-ons and rearsets FZ-6 track bike Posts: A lot.	what kkim said I only use motorcycle oil. To each his own. __________________________________________________ Black 250R Full Area P QC Dyno Jet Kit 100 main 41T Rear Sprocket

July 22nd, 2009, 09:47 AM	#114
BlueRaven ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Lil One Location: NB Canada Join Date: Mar 2009 Motorcycle(s): '09 Ninja 250 Black Posts: A lot.	Does anyone know who makes Kawasaki synthetic? __________________________________________________ I'm not small, I'm fun sized

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May 11th, 2009, 11:18 PM	#81
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	I buy mine from the autoparts store. they have crush washers of different sizes there. sorry, can't remember what size that washer is.

May 11th, 2009, 11:19 PM	#82
Sound Wave Ramen Rider Name: Gary Location: Honolulu, Hawaii Join Date: Jan 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2015 BMW R1200R, 08 Honda VFR800A (sold), 09 Ninja 250R (sold) Posts: A lot.	no doubt they were cheaper than what the dealership charged me... although i don't remember how much they were.

May 17th, 2009, 06:58 AM	#84
chess Ninjette Afficionado! Name: chess Location: Wichita Falls Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): Red...the sexiest color. Posts: 66	I just did my second oil change at 600, and I wanted to just drop in and say thanks for taking the time. I don't think I would have ever taken the assembly apart to find the small o-ring without this thread...though I'm kind of convinced that as long as it's not leaking, it's no big deal. Every o-ring I've taken off has been pristine, and I wouldn't hesitate to reuse them a few times if my filters didn't come with them. I was happy to find much less "junk" in this oil change...looked like a few flecks of paint, but no metal. And for lack of a better local option, I've been using Fram filters (I know) from Wal-Mart. But I figure with these changes at such short intervals, the filter doesn't really have much time to break down. At 1000 - 1500, I'll switch to Rotella, and I'll keep stopping by O'reilly's to check for Wix filters, but they never seem to have them. At what point are you guys planning to go regular intervals on your oil changes? 2-3K with synthetic? I ask, because I'll be racking up the miles commuting to work...probably 700-1000 per month.

May 17th, 2009, 10:07 AM	#85
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	If you can't find the WIX filters, NAPA Gold line of filters are made by WIX. After all the break in oil changes are over with, I'm planning to change mine every 3k miles, but if you are commuting and don't really push your bike hard, I'd consider 5K change intervals as long as your are using a full synthetic.

May 20th, 2009, 11:01 PM	#87
B2FiNiTY ninjette.org member Name: D Location: cali Join Date: Mar 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Kawi Ninja 250R Posts: 114	you don't have to every change but doing it every once in awhile is good for piece of mind. there was once on a used car that I bought that I decided not to change it and it ended up not sealing and oil started dripping so I had to basically do half an oil change all over again. better safe than sorry!

May 21st, 2009, 01:18 AM	#88
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	you are actually supposed to change the drain bolt crush washer at each oil change. The washer is designed to deform under pressure and seal as the drain bolt is torqued to spec. It is a "use once" designed washer.

May 21st, 2009, 02:59 AM	#89
paterick4o8 ninjette.org sage Name: patricK Location: San Jose, CA--BAY AREA! Join Date: Mar 2009 Motorcycle(s): '08 blue 250R [sold]. '09 lime ZX-6R [stolen :( ]. '06 blue 636. Posts: 918	hmm. so can we just pick one of these up at the auto store? does anyone know the size specs on this gasket so that I don't have to go run to the store in the middle of my oil change to show them the exact gasket I need?

May 24th, 2009, 05:43 PM	#91
ScorpionNinja ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Dave Location: Michigan Join Date: May 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Kawasaki Ninja 650RTE & 2009 Kawasaki Ninja 250R (SOLD) Posts: A lot.	Hey nice write up! Heres 2 other things about well ANY oil change you might find useful. 1) If all you have are Wrenches to take off the bolt/drain plug, and NEED more leverage, take another wrench (one that is 1-2 sizes near the one your using), and Fit it into the other one.... open-end, fits into the box-end or vise versa! (i dont have a camera, sorry cant give Pics) This will give ya more leverage to break a bolt loose! 2) b4 you try and take off the drain plug, MAKE SURE that the oil fill CAP, is Fully On, screwed in. Cuz if you have the Cap OFF, then as you remove the Bolt/plug... itll create a 'vaccaum' and cause the Oil too ' JET out' and make things more Messy! hehe

May 24th, 2009, 05:50 PM	#92
ScorpionNinja ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Dave Location: Michigan Join Date: May 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Kawasaki Ninja 650RTE & 2009 Kawasaki Ninja 250R (SOLD) Posts: A lot.	Oh for my First Oil change, at about 610 miles, i took my bike too the dealer. I dont have a bike stand,etc at the time, as i had them tighten up the chain slack too! I had them use reg 10w-40 Kawasaki 4T oil. Now im not a huge believer in synth Oils... im old school, and every Car ive ever had, reg oil changed 3k miles... ive Never had a Engine go bad,etc... but, whats your guys take on syth oils for motorcycles? Keep in mind, i use my bike for getting too work, and just cruisin' around town and joy riding! I DONT race tracks and such, so i dont see a synth oil needed. So if its 'Best' too use synth oils on my 250R, what mileage should i start using them, and what kinda Brand 10w-40 be Overall best? (price,performence,etc) Thanks!

June 6th, 2009, 06:29 PM	#93
craha ninjetter Name: Craig Location: Los Angeles Join Date: Mar 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250r Posts: 27	Great DIY, thanks. Everything worked smoothly and as described, until... I tried using my torque wrench (set to 14.5 ft/lbs) to torque the bolts. I've torqued the wheels on my car and have always heard a very positive clicking when torque is reached. I didn't hear that when tightening these bolts. After tightening a bit more, I got scared and stopped. I'm not really sure at this point if they are over tightened, under tightened, or OK. After starting for the second time to as described, I noticed smoke coming out from somewhere. Smells like burning oil but I'm not sure if it's some that I missed from draining that is heating up around the exhaust or some kind of new leak?

June 6th, 2009, 10:01 PM	#94
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	what size torques wrench did you use? what is the range of values it can handle? On the smoke... I'd guess you must have splashed some on the exhaust and it's just burning off. If it continues, I'd be concerned. Trace down the source of the smoke if it continues.

June 6th, 2009, 11:30 PM	#95
VeX That's me! Name: TJ Location: Ames, IA Join Date: Nov 2008 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250r (Tis blue), 2008 CBR600RR Posts: 454	Quick observation: When torque values are less then 20 ft./lbs. or so I suggest getting a 3/8" torque wrench that measures in inch/lbs. Most torque wrenches become very inaccurate when you start approaching low values. One time I half assed it on an Mopar engine and used my 1/2" torque wrench for a 10 ft/lbs (120 inch/lbs) camshaft cap bolt and snapped the bolt. Pulling my 3/8" torque wrench revealed the bolts were closer to 12-14 ft./lbs. And as kkim pointed out, the header runs close to the oil filter cover and it's easy to splash a little oil on there

June 7th, 2009, 05:30 PM	#97
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	A 1/2" drive will definitely not be "sensitive" enough at that low end range. I suggest a 3/8" drive or a 1/4" drive wrench that will cover that range. Torque wrenches are not too accurate at the extremes of their stated ranges. Wipe the seam the looks wet and recheck after awhile to see if it's wet again. If it's sealed properly, it shouldn't look wet once you wipe it clean.

June 7th, 2009, 06:04 PM	#100
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	if you're not leaking anything, leave things alone till your next oil change. in the meantime, get yourself an appropriate torque wrench for the required torque values. I own 1/2, 3/8 and 1/4 inch drive wrenches to cover most of what I do in my garage.

June 8th, 2009, 09:58 PM	#106
richierich781 Future Hall of Famer Name: rich Location: Tacoma, WA Join Date: May 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2010 yamaha fz6r raven Posts: 112	i did my first oil change today @ 620 miles. thanks for the great write up kim. btw thanks again for the service manual u emailed me. im saving me some money having to do the 600 mile service myself with the help of my pops who's a pretty good mechanic.

July 11th, 2009, 12:53 AM	#107
Twinck Tinkerer Name: Tom Location: Australia Join Date: Jun 2009 Motorcycle(s): Black 09 Ninja, 09 CBR125 (well sort of.. it's the wifes :) ) Posts: 8	First oil change today at 75km, glad i did as the oil that came out looked putrid .. could only find semi synthetic 10w40 out of 6 bike/auto supply stores.. will be doing the next change at around 500km .. I did make one mistake, took out the sump bolt next to the oil filter first instead of the drain plug, re-attached and torqued up to 14.5 ft/lb, hopefully didn't do anything major :/ now running the engine up to around 6k rpm, does anyone know if i should be able to do 100 km/h without damaging the engine during the break-in ? Thanks Tom

July 11th, 2009, 01:25 AM	#108
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	Tom, You'll be fine running the bike all the way up to redline during break in. Some break in philosophies encourage it, so running your bike anything less than that is acceptable. You are doing right by changing the oil often during the break in period. I changed mine 3 times before 600 miles.

July 22nd, 2009, 08:51 AM	#111
M-Oorb ninjette.org sage Name: Matt Location: South East Florida/Rutgers University Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): 2008 250r (Fastest Color) Posts: 914	Ok so I didnt know where to post this question and this thread seemed like a good spot. So it seems like Rotella T can not be found anymore in or around my town. I have a little bit left(maybe for half an oil change) of a gallon that I bought. Would it be ok to mix this synthetic with another synthetic of the same weight (say Castrol Syntec) in the same oil change?

July 22nd, 2009, 09:06 AM	#112
NJD022588 ============ Name: Nick Location: Occoquan, VA Join Date: Nov 2008 Motorcycle(s): '09 Ninja 250R Posts: 518	You can probably order Rotella T online somewhere.

July 22nd, 2009, 09:40 AM	#113
M-Oorb ninjette.org sage Name: Matt Location: South East Florida/Rutgers University Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): 2008 250r (Fastest Color) Posts: 914	Yea your probably right but I feel like shipping would end up costing quite a bit due to the weight. If I find that the oils available to me at walmart or an auto parts store are not up to the same quality I may end up doing that but I'll give this stuff a try. If in fact I cant mix these oils then I'll go order some Shell.

July 22nd, 2009, 12:13 PM	#117
M-Oorb ninjette.org sage Name: Matt Location: South East Florida/Rutgers University Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): 2008 250r (Fastest Color) Posts: 914	Yea I bought it from Walmart but they no longer carry it ...maybe I should try a different wal-mart? Yea I was thinking that but I couldn't wrap my head around a reaction occuring if both synthetic and the same weight. I guess any kinda special thing they add in for "anti-sludge" or any other BS they say so people buy their product...

July 22nd, 2009, 02:14 PM	#118
NJD022588 ============ Name: Nick Location: Occoquan, VA Join Date: Nov 2008 Motorcycle(s): '09 Ninja 250R Posts: 518	The only place I have found it is Walmart

July 22nd, 2009, 02:52 PM	#119
M-Oorb ninjette.org sage Name: Matt Location: South East Florida/Rutgers University Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): 2008 250r (Fastest Color) Posts: 914	Alright then time to find a new wal-mart...

July 22nd, 2009, 05:16 PM	#120
Ryosen11 ninjette.org member Name: sho Location: SoCal Join Date: Jun 2009 Motorcycle(s): CBR600RR Ninja 250R(sold) Posts: 144	The only way to get an accurate oil level reading is with the bike in an absolute vertical position... not on its sidestand. After filling the oil, is it ok to leave the bike on the rear stand(vertical but slightly raised rear) for accurate reading through the window or does it need to be off?