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Old February 4th, 2013, 07:11 AM   #1
woofer987
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First time oil change

Hey Guys, I'm thinking about changing the oil on my 250 for the first time. I have done some research and I already have all the necessary tools for it, and I have read how-to's, as well as watched many videos. Should I try this? are there any tips you guys have for me to be sure not to do or anything like that? Also, I've been told that I should change my oil every 800 miles. I've also been told 1000 miles is a good range, but while I've been looking on the wiki, I found the Kawasaki Service Schedule. This tells me to change the oil at 600 miles then 7500 miles. I MUST be reading this wrong. Thanks!
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Old February 4th, 2013, 07:17 AM   #2
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My tip is get a rear stand if you don't have one and make sure you lay down some plastic under your bike between the wheels to catch any drips. Funnels are useful too for when you pour in the new oil if you don't have the best aim or a steady hand. Also, empty milk containers (plastic ones) are great for dumping old oil if you don't have anything available (easier to do with a funnel as well).

As far as the frequency of oil changes go some people like to be anal and change it very often. But a Full Synthetic oil will last you a while. If you think it's dirty though and want to change it then go ahead, it's your money and bike. I personally think 3000 miles is a good spot for changing oil for full synthetic. Speaking of which, I need to go get a new filter and O rings to change mine.
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Old February 4th, 2013, 07:39 AM   #3
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Eric, my tip for you is... Don't be hesitant or skeered. Do et! It's easy.

Also, your riding habits & environment should mostly dictate how often you really need to change your oil. If I changed my oil every 800 or 1k miles, I would have to change it every other weekend during the peak season.

I would say good luck changing your oil but honestly, you don't need it. You got this.

Enjoy!
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Old February 4th, 2013, 07:43 AM   #4
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Also, your riding habits & environment should mostly dictate how often you really need to change your oil. If I changed my oil every 800 or 1k miles, I would have to change it every other weekend during the peak season.
This is why I do 3k miles since I commute on my bike I'd be changing it every other weekend just like you said. I could probably even get away with 5k and still have barely dirty oil.
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Old February 4th, 2013, 08:11 AM   #5
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That sounds good. Ill get a funnel and the plastic on the bottom is a good hint too. Thanks. Is there something I should do with the used oil? As for the interval of changing it, I'll just check the oil and change it when it gets dirty. I've also read that some people have a different preference on which brand oil to use. Do you have any preference?
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Old February 4th, 2013, 08:17 AM   #6
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That sounds good. Ill get a funnel and the plastic on the bottom is a good hint too. Thanks. Is there something I should do with the used oil? As for the interval of changing it, I'll just check the oil and change it when it gets dirty. I've also read that some people have a different preference on which brand oil to use. Do you have any preference?
Autozone should take the used oil, I'm pretty sure it doesn't matter what type of vehicle it came from. They should have a big container in the back where they let you dump it.

These are the products I use on my bike. I get my oil right from the dealer. Make sure you get 2 quarts as well.
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Old February 4th, 2013, 08:30 AM   #7
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Yeah I think I might be best off getting my oil and filter from the dealer. It had snowed last night so I'll have to wait to do it, but I will be sure to update you on how it goes.
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Old February 4th, 2013, 08:32 AM   #8
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..... Is there something I should do with the used oil? As for the interval of changing it, I'll just check the oil and change it when it gets dirty. I've also read that some people have a different preference on which brand oil to use. Do you have any preference?
Most auto parts stores or lube stations have oil recycling. You can take your old oil there. As far as oil change and interval, go with a 10w 40 synthetic and you can extend your oil change interval up to about 10k miles depending on how you ride. Longer trips at high rpms your interval should be a little shorter.

Also synthetic oil will help keep the bike cooler and run smoother. It cost a little more but well worth it.
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Old February 4th, 2013, 08:39 AM   #9
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Yeah I think I might be best off getting my oil and filter from the dealer. It had snowed last night so I'll have to wait to do it, but I will be sure to update you on how it goes.
You may not have to go to a dealer for oil or oil filters. There is a list of oil filters, many of which may be found at auto parts stores. Many also cost less than OEM filters and oil.
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Old February 4th, 2013, 08:41 AM   #10
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OH and one more thing. When I am filling the oil and looking at the sight glass, i want the oil to between the marks. Do I want to check this when the bike is on or off? Is this the order i check it in:

Fill oil
Check sight glass to be sure right level
Start bike 3 min
Turn off 3 min
Check again to be sure right level

Sorry for the questions I want to get it right the first time haha
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Old February 4th, 2013, 08:42 AM   #11
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He'll still new new O rings that he might not be able to find at a general auto parts store though. Oh PS, careful when opening up bottom to access the filter, that bolt is supposedly crush-able according to the user manual but can be re used if you don't go hulk on it.
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Old February 4th, 2013, 08:43 AM   #12
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OH and one more thing. When I am filling the oil and looking at the sight glass, i want the oil to between the marks. Do I want to check this when the bike is on or off? Is this the order i check it in:

Fill oil
Check sight glass to be sure right level
Start bike 3 min
Turn off 3 min
Check again to be sure right level

Sorry for the questions I want to get it right the first time haha
Sounds about right, make sure the bike is standing as straight as possible when you are checking too.
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Old February 4th, 2013, 09:08 AM   #13
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Oh PS, careful when opening up bottom to access the filter, that bolt is supposedly crush-able according to the user manual but can be re used if you don't go hulk on it.
I beg to differ. Ive had to put a ridiculous amount of torque on it to get it to unscrew because it just would not budge. Just be sure to use the right socket.
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Old February 4th, 2013, 09:08 AM   #14
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OH and one more thing. When I am filling the oil and looking at the sight glass, i want the oil to between the marks. Do I want to check this when the bike is on or off? Is this the order i check it in:

Fill oil
Check sight glass to be sure right level
Start bike 3 min
Turn off 3 min
Check again to be sure right level
Just make sure the bike is level and not on the sidestand when checking the sight glass. You may want to use a proper torque wrench to prevent over tightening any bolts. It is possible to crack both the filter cover and oil drain by using too much force. hand thread and tighten the bolts as much as possible then use the wrench. You may find the bolts a little tight if it is your first time removing them, just make sure your socket fits correctly.

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He'll still new new O rings that he might not be able to find at a general auto parts store though.
Most of the oil filters on this list come with o-rings except where noted.
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Old February 4th, 2013, 09:09 AM   #15
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Most of the oil filters on this list come with o-rings except where noted.
Oh, didn't know that. My bad
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Old February 4th, 2013, 09:15 AM   #16
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Thats a 17 mm socket correct?
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Old February 4th, 2013, 09:24 AM   #17
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Correct
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Old February 4th, 2013, 09:25 AM   #18
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Thats a 17 mm socket correct?
Yes.
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Old February 4th, 2013, 09:25 AM   #19
Graugaard
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every 800miles? wow... i change mine every 6000miles.. works great for me, and my machine got 20.000miles on it, no problem
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