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Old January 12th, 2013, 08:17 PM   #1
SnowMan777
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Question 2010 Ninja 250r. Carburetor Issue??

So I have a 2010 Ninja 250r with 2280 miles on it and it just does not seem to run anything like my other 2010 Ninja 250r.

Takes a bout 1 minute with full choke to warm up compared to 10 seconds on the other bike. Also When it is in the 2-5k rpm range it is very sensitive and can bog out. Once its past 6,000 rpms it hauls like crazy! At 4-5k rpm there is about a second of hesitation before it finally takes off! I drained the two spots under the Carburetors and it was fine. Do you think I should take the Carbs out and adjust the floats? My pops says that its just running "lean" since it is quite new. Idk what he really means by that but im just trying to find out if I can fix it myself before chucking out some money to have a place analyze it.

Inputs? I can also film some videos if it would help.

-Much Thanks

Taylor
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Old January 12th, 2013, 08:21 PM   #2
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search the threads about shimming the needles.
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Old January 12th, 2013, 08:58 PM   #3
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Before you start ripping into the carbs, try looking at the basic stuff (oil, fuel, plugs, air filter) then try using the Troubleshooting Guide

Has the bike sat for a while with out running? Have you tried a fuel treatment like Star Tron to help clean the carbs.
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Old January 12th, 2013, 10:04 PM   #4
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That is low mileage for a 2010; hence, the bike has been sitting unused and the carbs may have some crud from old gasoline.
Not sure, but likely; specially if you are not the first owner.

Lean means that the engine is starving for fuel, there is more air than fuel in the mix formed by these two (which the engine sucks and uses for combustion).
One of the causes for that to happen is that the internal fuel passages of the carburetors are partially clogged.

http://www.ninjette.org/wiki/Lean_or_Rich

That Star Tron or any other internal cleaner should help.
If not, you may want to start learning how to clean your carbs or saving some money to pay a mechanic.
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Old January 12th, 2013, 11:54 PM   #5
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Thumbs up

Thanks so much for the prompt replies friends. I will definitely start off first with the Star Tron treatment. And if I see no noticeable improvements I will just fork out the $$$ to have a place redo the carbs and spark plugs. It just seems so weird to be doing that to a somewhat new ninja with little miles.

-Taylor
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Old January 13th, 2013, 12:03 AM   #6
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Ive actually never heard of "Shimming the Needles". I suppose that will be the next step if the Star Tron treatment does not work. Because those damn carbs are hard to get to with the stock air filter system. haha
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Old January 13th, 2013, 03:58 AM   #7
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Sounds like the carbs need clean or new pilot jets.
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Old January 13th, 2013, 07:37 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SnowMan777 View Post
Ive actually never heard of "Shimming the Needles".
Read this article:

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_a_c...arbs_explained

In summary, relocating the needles to a higher position, allows more fuel to be mixed with the air.

Due to emission restrictions, the manufacturer sends the bikes to us on the lean side of the spectrum of the usable mix rates.

Shimming the needles helps making the mix less extreme; hence, we obtain a little more power and a little more margin for "carburetors mix errors".

You are welcome
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Old January 13th, 2013, 09:03 AM   #9
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Technically shimming the needles does not add more fuel. It adds more fuel in the mid range because the slender part of the needle is in the jet allowing more fuel to pass. Once the needle lifts you are at the same main jet flow.

The idle and pilot jets allow fuel to flow before the needle moves. this gives better throttle response. And will cause all sort of running problems when they get restricted.
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Old January 13th, 2013, 10:14 AM   #10
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Star Tron will make your bike run like new. Night and day difference.
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Old January 13th, 2013, 11:40 AM   #11
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I like when I come to a thread and Eric has already said word for word what I was about to say. Touche good sir. Lol. Just clean out the carbs, the pilot jets are gummed up
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Old January 13th, 2013, 08:44 PM   #12
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Talking

Thanks so much everyone for your responses. Means a lot.
This week I will try the Star Tron treatment first and then take it to a shop if that does not work. That Star Tron stuff available at Cycle Gear?

alex.s : You think the pilot jets are gummed up already from only 2200 miles of use? Technically I believe that I am supposed to still be following a 4k mile break in period?
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Old January 13th, 2013, 09:14 PM   #13
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Quote:
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.... That Star Tron stuff available at Cycle Gear?
You can find it at Walmart (in the Marine section), Advance Auto (small engine/motorcycle section, Auto Zone, West Marine (or other marine/boat stores), Tractor Supply Company, Lowes, and Home Depot, also check your local small engine repair shop.
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Old January 13th, 2013, 09:45 PM   #14
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4000 mile break in? thats not needed at all. the only reason you break in an engine is so the parts have a chance to wear into each other. if that happens too fast they wear out prematurely. primarily what youre going for is ring sealing. which on one of these bikes is 1500 miles, factory spec. anything more than 2000 youre due for a valve adjustment check and carburetor inspection. a newer bike takes specific maintenance if you want to get the most out of it. valve adjustment is one of those key things. also i would get the carbs synced. i can only imagine its probably not setup well from the factory, and a couple vacuum gauges and 5 minutes of reading can get it done. it doesnt matter how much vacuum they draw when regarding a sync, its about both sides being even. but start with making sure your jets arent clogged. ethanol gas is a bitch and clogs things up.
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