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Old September 17th, 2022, 05:17 PM   #1
Zpatton
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Learning as I'm going on this '08 250r

Ok so a few have helped me out on my previous thread.

Really quick I'm Zach and I am new to both the Ninja world and this forum. Last Sunday (09/11) I bought a 2008 Ninja 250r all the way out in Amarillo, TX on a whim. Got it for dirt cheap which was nice because my budget hasn't been very high due to other concerns. The main thing is I have been looking for an introductory bike and one that'll help me commute around 100 miles a day in the Fort Worth area.

So I get the bike, PO tells me the only mechanical issues are the shifter is broken and its in first gear. Aside from that we were both in a hurry to get the deal done so I made the fatal error of not doing a better job of inspecting the bike. Plus a 4 hour drive just going out there kinda wears you out.



I get back home and start breaking the bike down throughout the week and more this weekend. The internet has been helpful but nothing has come even close until I discovered this little slice of heaven. None of the other Ninja forums are as active or useful as this one. I have already had help identify the HID headlight wiring that was driving me bonkers cause I was afraid it was something OEM that I would never be able to find replacements for.

The shifter and bracket for it are aftermarket apparently. I cannot tell where they are broken but it doesn't matter because I want them gone, so I ordered OEM replacements (used bracket from eBay and new shifter off Amazon). The PO did break the kickstand spring so a new one of those is enroute and I went ahead and took the liberty of finding out what the sensor is down there cause it looks all jacked up so ordered one of those of ebay as well. Oh and a new tie rod cause this one looks a little bent.



After some work on it yesterday, last night, and this morning this is how it looked.



There are bolts and nuts missing as I am taking the fairings apart so I defenityl want to make sure I have all of those replaced when I put everything back on. Any recomendations? I have seen how much they are through Kawasaki and that ain't cheap. The headlight assembly is pretty nasty and I'm not sure if it's worth to just buy a restoration kit or buy a new headlight housing unit. Any thoughts on that would be useful.

Here's the headers I took off. I was looking at it closer today than before and noticed it was crushed in a spot, so I looked at the whole thing, looked at the manufacturer diagrams and realized it's aftermarket also. Not entirely sure if going OEM on this is the best route but it may be the cheapest. Thoughts?





A friend of mine that used to ride, and his first bike was a '90 250, came over later today to give me some pointers and a hand. Helped me go ahead and take the tank off after we realized thats the only way to look at the plugs so another deep dive into this thing.



My question is one of these spark plug caps, specifically the left one, has some corrosion on the contact peice way up in there. Do I replace the cap all together or leave it alone?



There's been a few moments were I feel like I am already in over my head and this is too much for me to handle right now in my life. I really just wanted a bike to get on a go. I have really nasty anxiety these days, I am a full time single parent, a full time student, part time job as an instructor at a community college, looking for a house to buy, and a 100% disabled vet. Oh and did I mention the love of life dumped me last month? So yeah, not sure if this something I can handle even though it's been a form of therapy already.

Last futzed with by Zpatton; September 18th, 2022 at 08:17 AM.
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Old September 18th, 2022, 10:04 AM   #2
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Is there any tried and proven way of cleaning up a bike thatís as dirty as this without ruining any of the electrical stuff? Thatís what scare me the most, thatíll I ruin the wiring while trying to clean it up.

I really, really want to get rid of all this west Texas dust and dirt though. Itís driving me bonkers looking at it and it just makes for an unattractive workspace honestly. Not looking forward to putting it all back together with it this nasty looking underneath.

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Old September 18th, 2022, 12:14 PM   #3
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Looks like the previous owner installed half of an aftermarket adjustable rearset instead of just rear set adjusters. I know that isn’t the correct folding footpeg on the other side either but people have been known to swap their passenger pegs in for better feel (no rubber, no feeler pegs). Brake pedal looks elongated, like maybe it’s meant for adjustable rearsets too.

Yeah, replacing the shifter setup requires the whole assembly with folding footpeg, linkage, and bracket. The half of an adjustable rearset was probably salvaged for cheap since the previous owner didn’t get the other side with it.

I think that’s just dust on the spark plug boot. It’s got ribs like that specifically to seal the top of the spark plug well so that dust and dirt doesn’t accumulate down there and fall into the engine when your remove the plugs. I’d just brush it off, reinsert, and blow off the top of the engine (“valve cover”), assuming it works.

If you know anyone with a big air compressor tank I’d attach a blowgun and knock off as much dust as possible, then agitate the stubborn spots with a brush and blow again. You don’t want to go too extreme since it’s intended to be a commuter bike and it’s just gonna get dirty again in no time, so after blowing/brushing I’d just use a damp rag on the easy to reach areas. Some nitrile gloves will keep you from getting too dirty when you work in the tighter spaces.
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Old September 18th, 2022, 12:25 PM   #4
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I’m not familiar enough for the exhaust questions but I’m sure someone can chime in about that. It shouldn’t be too hard to find someone who upgraded and wants to sell their stock parts but you need to be mindful of any missing gaskets and hardware that might also be needed. I know the heat shield changed between 2008 and 2009 but the whole full setup should still swap.

It sounds like you’ll be looking for a lot of OEM parts. I made a PDF with the entire 2008 parts catalog which I can send when I get home. It sure beats poking through the catalog one section at a time and gives you a quick reference for the full part number (diagrams only give reference numbers). I did the same for the 2012 parts catalog so I can compare updated parts and such. No reason to get pigeonholed on an unavailable 2008 part so I’ll send both.
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Old September 18th, 2022, 12:51 PM   #5
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The kickstand sensor kills the engine if the bike is in gear with the kickstand down and won’t let you start with it down unless you are in Neutral. There is also a switch at the clutch hand lever that won’t let you start while in gear unless the clutch lever is pulled. They definitely need to be in working order.

I see missing grips and bar end weights and you mentioned a lot of bolts are missing too. These are the kinds of things you can replace for cheaper than OEM by “upgrading.” For example, get some green “Ninja” threaded bar ends and some green folding footpegs if the stock bracket you find doesn’t include them. Get some black and green grips and a green fairing bolt kit. While you are at it, there are about 14 rubber wellnuts on the bike and 12 of them will be completely rotted/worthless if they haven’t already been replaced. I’m sure the four used to secure the lowers to the upper fairing have been replaced. The two that don’t rot are the two exposed on the windscreen but a lot of colored windscreen bolt kits include a bunch of rubber wellnuts too.

There’s a lot of this stuff on AliExpress too. Heck, they have a lot of OEM replica stuff too, like handlebars and headlights. Their search sucks though so you have to stumble on half of it while looking at something else.
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Old September 18th, 2022, 12:54 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CZroe View Post
Looks like the previous owner installed half of an aftermarket adjustable rearset instead of just rear set adjusters. I know that isnít the correct folding footpeg on the other side either but people have been known to swap their passenger pegs in for better feel (no rubber, no feeler pegs). Brake pedal looks elongated, like maybe itís meant for adjustable rearsets too.

Yeah, replacing the shifter setup requires the whole assembly with folding footpeg, linkage, and bracket. The half of an adjustable rearset was probably salvaged for cheap since the previous owner didnít get the other side with it.

I think thatís just dust on the spark plug boot. Itís got ribs like that specifically to seal the top of the spark plug well so that dust and dirt doesnít accumulate down there and fall into the engine when your remove the plugs. Iíd just brush it off, reinsert, and blow off the top of the engine (ďvalve coverĒ), assuming it works.

If you know anyone with a big air compressor tank Iíd attach a blowgun and knock off as much dust as possible, then agitate the stubborn spots with a brush and blow again. You donít want to go too extreme since itís intended to be a commuter bike and itís just gonna get dirty again in no time, so after blowing/brushing Iíd just use a damp rag on the easy to reach areas. Some nitrile gloves will keep you from getting too dirty when you work in the tighter spaces.
Iíve gone through the official parts diagrams from Kawasaki and picked up an OEM shifter setup. I donít want to mess with this. The new shifter arrived yesterday and the new bracket should be here sometime this week.

As far as the boot for the spark plug, I just provided a picture of the boot itself. What I am actually talking about is the connector INSIDE of the boot. This one seems to be corroded, looks like a battery terminal connection that has acid on it. Itís super small and I couldnít take a picture of that itself cause itís down in there.
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Old September 18th, 2022, 12:56 PM   #7
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Iím not familiar enough for the exhaust questions but Iím sure someone can chime in about that. It shouldnít be too hard to find someone who upgraded and wants to sell their stock parts but you need to be mindful of any missing gaskets and hardware that might also be needed. I know the heat shield changed between 2008 and 2009 but the whole full setup should still swap.

It sounds like youíll be looking for a lot of OEM parts. I made a PDF with the entire 2008 parts catalog which I can send when I get home. It sure beats poking through the catalog one section at a time and gives you a quick reference for the full part number (diagrams only give reference numbers). I did the same for the 2012 parts catalog so I can compare updated parts and such. No reason to get pigeonholed on an unavailable 2008 part so Iíll send both.
I figured OEM would be the easiest and cheapest, thatís all. Not really sure if I should go with OEM on the headers or if thereís any recommendations on budget aftermarket replacements.
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Old September 18th, 2022, 01:04 PM   #8
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The kickstand sensor kills the engine if the bike is in gear with the kickstand down and wonít let you start with it down unless you are in Neutral. There is also a switch at the clutch hand lever that wonít let you start while in gear unless the clutch lever is pulled. They definitely need to be in working order.

I see missing grips and bar end weights and you mentioned a lot of bolts are missing too. These are the kinds of things you can replace for cheaper than OEM by ďupgrading.Ē For example, get some green ďNinjaĒ threaded bar ends and some green folding footpegs if the stock bracket you find doesnít include them. Get some black and green grips and a green fairing bolt kit. While you are at it, there are about 14 rubber wellnuts on the bike and 12 of them will be completely rotted/worthless if they havenít already been replaced. Iím sure the four used to secure the lowers to the upper fairing have been replaced. The two that donít rot are the two exposed on the windscreen but a lot of colored windscreen bolt kits include a bunch of rubber wellnuts too.

Thereís a lot of this stuff on AliExpress too. Heck, they have a lot of OEM replica stuff too, like handlebars and headlights. Their search sucks though so you have to stumble on half of it while looking at something else.
I didnít know about the switch on the clutch hand lever. Very good too know especially considering I am planning on swapping the levers out for adjustable ones. I discovered that the bolt for the clutch lever (part# 92154 was just sitting in there as the bottom of it was broke so I gotta order one of those.

Discovered different bolt and fairing plug kits out there. Lots of different ones. Are there any know reliable ones that anyone would recommend?

As far as colors go, Iím not keeping the green. I donít like to stand out. I got all the stickers off cleanly, scrubbed it down with simple green, and have learned several methods of painting the fairings off of YouTube. Already applied a few coats to some pieces and will be working on all of that while the mechanical parts are being put together. Just going black. Once thereís more time and I have more budget for cosmetics itíll get cleaned up even more.

Iíve never ordered off of AliExpress. Is it actually reliable?
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Old September 18th, 2022, 02:06 PM   #9
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I didn’t know about the switch on the clutch hand lever. Very good too know especially considering I am planning on swapping the levers out for adjustable ones. I discovered that the bolt for the clutch lever (part# 92154 was just sitting in there as the bottom of it was broke so I gotta order one of those.

Discovered different bolt and fairing plug kits out there. Lots of different ones. Are there any know reliable ones that anyone would recommend?

As far as colors go, I’m not keeping the green. I don’t like to stand out. I got all the stickers off cleanly, scrubbed it down with simple green, and have learned several methods of painting the fairings off of YouTube. Already applied a few coats to some pieces and will be working on all of that while the mechanical parts are being put together. Just going black. Once there’s more time and I have more budget for cosmetics it’ll get cleaned up even more.

I’ve never ordered off of AliExpress. Is it actually reliable?
I’ve only ordered a few times myself. It can take a while with free shipping but the sellers are generally reliable. You typically find many sellers with the same thing and various prices so I end up having decision paralysis most of the time, but there’s a lot of parts you just can’t find on eBay.

Some random examples:


For the bolts there are a lot of over-priced stainless hardware kits from name brands but I’d probably just buy one of the more complete kits with U-nuts, wellnuts, plastic fasteners, etc.

As for the paint job, hey, black can look even better with green:


…but powder-coated rims and a green seat cover is going a lot further than just getting it commute-ready.

I like black because it’s a bit less aggressive-looking but there is something to be said for the increased visibility of Kawasaki’s signature Lime Green. 2008 was the only year when they made a pure Kawi green and they clear coat graphics on the tank for later “special editions” so it’s sad to see another go. That’s just how things go, of course.
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Old September 18th, 2022, 09:41 PM   #10
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Header pipes for a 2012 250r will fit an 08 correct? I mean they’re the same bike are they not? I just want to confirm because I found a really decent looking set of used pipes with a muffler still attached for less than $75.
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Old September 19th, 2022, 07:20 AM   #11
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Yes, they're the same bike with only minor tweaks, like a painted muffler or white-faced gauge cluster or screws instead of bolts for the airbox cover. I checked to see if the header's part number changed for some reason, and it did, but since no one reported any fitment issues and none of the aftermarket pipes needed to be revised I we can safely assume it fits. You might need 11061-0287 (header gaskets).

In 2010 the header was still 39178-0076... same as the 2008 part number. For either 2011 or 2012 (I only checked MY2012) it changed to 39178-0157. 2010 already had the nicer black muffler so that doesn't seem to have anything to do with it.

I'm attaching the two PDFs with the complete MY2008 and MY2012 parts catalog where I combined all the individual PDFs into one for each model year. I even did blank page insertion where needed so that they can be printed double-sided and then interleaved for quick comparison.

Remember: A lot of the stuff from the 300/400 fits too. I'm reasonably sure you can use Ninja 300 rear sets, for example. Let me know if you'd also like that catalog.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 2008 Ninjaģ 250R 2008EX250J8F 2022.pdf (8.80 MB, 4 views)
File Type: pdf 2012 NINJAģ 250R 2012EX250JCF 2022.pdf (8.51 MB, 1 views)
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Old September 19th, 2022, 10:02 AM   #12
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Yes 300 rearsets fits. Backwards compatible on '88-07 pregen too!

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Old September 19th, 2022, 01:34 PM   #13
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Yes 300 rearsets fits. Backwards compatible on '88-07 pregen too!

LOL! I wasted a bunch of time combing this thread to confirm it and you beat me to it. Thanks! Now we actually get to see it.

…@cuong-nutz shows a J-bike with the F-bike’s rearsets in that thread so that’s confirmed too.

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the Pregen rearsets fit on the new gens
It seems the consensus on the 300 exhaust header was that it’s got the same mounting points but different routing causing fitment issues with the fairing and the oil filter part of the engine… so hopefully the OP can get that cheap J-bike header+muffler.
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Old September 19th, 2022, 03:55 PM   #14
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Well, after looking at the 300-style replica rear sets on eBay, I could find them with and without shift/brake pedals and I could find them in left/tights sets but I couldn’t find them in left/right sets with shift/brake pedals.



Bizarre.

Same situation on AliExpress except you can also get them in black:
US $24.41 25% Off | Motorcycle Left Right Rear Foot Peg Brake Pedal Footrest Bracket For KAWASAKI VERSYS 250/300 NINJA EX250R Z250 Z300
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mOQ3TvS

Still, they’re new and seem pretty cheap compared to getting new 250-style rearsets. Ordering a left side with the shift pedal and a right side with brake pedal is probably the way to go.
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Old September 20th, 2022, 06:35 PM   #15
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Well, after looking at the 300-style replica rear sets on eBay, I could find them with and without shift/brake pedals and I could find them in left/tights sets but I couldnít find them in left/right sets with shift/brake pedals.



Bizarre.

Same situation on AliExpress except you can also get them in black:
US $24.41 25% Off | Motorcycle Left Right Rear Foot Peg Brake Pedal Footrest Bracket For KAWASAKI VERSYS 250/300 NINJA EX250R Z250 Z300
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mOQ3TvS

Still, theyíre new and seem pretty cheap compared to getting new 250-style rearsets. Ordering a left side with the shift pedal and a right side with brake pedal is probably the way to go.
Found a used OEM set for about $50. The pedals are bent a little but I do have an a shifter already and not planning on replacing the right side anytime soon. The ones from AliExpress wouldnít be here for at least another 3 weeks also. These will be here by the weekend.
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Old September 20th, 2022, 07:24 PM   #16
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Great! If they donít work with your possibly-elongated levers Iíll dig around and see what I got.
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Old September 22nd, 2022, 04:00 PM   #17
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Ok so I was finally able to get around and pull the plugs today.

This is what both of them pretty much look like.



Now I have plenty of performance car experience, but again, motorcycles are still new to me. Is the condition of these plugs indicative of anything I need to be concerned about or do they just look like old a** plugs that need to be replaced?
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Old September 23rd, 2022, 04:59 PM   #18
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Plugs look fine. Typical super-rich factory mixtures. Although plug-reading isn't as easy or accurate any more due to unleaded petrol with ethanol.
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Old September 23rd, 2022, 06:04 PM   #19
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Great! If they donít work with your possibly-elongated levers Iíll dig around and see what I got.
What do I have to do to swap that new ignition in? Am I correct in what Iíve read about other bikes and I have to drill bolts out?

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Plugs look fine. Typical super-rich factory mixtures. Although plug-reading isn't as easy or accurate any more due to unleaded petrol with ethanol.
Thanks, I just wanted to make sure. I got new plugs today so Iíll drop those in soon.

Also I got the new kickstand spring in today and got it on. Is there some sort of secret to it? Every time I bring the stand up, the spring pops off. Really disappointing since thatís one part Iíve been looking forward to for over a week.
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Old September 23rd, 2022, 06:45 PM   #20
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Being the curious creatures they are, one of my kids came around and asked questions while I was working on the bike earlier. Well she happened to press down on the rear brake pedal to the point where it was almost vertical. When she did so I heard something pop. Not sure if this is what I heard but Iím assuming it was since it was just dangling.

Little help explaining what this is, where it goes, and what I need to do next to make sure nothing is broke?

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Old September 23rd, 2022, 08:37 PM   #21
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Pretty sure that's the rear brake light switch, that attaches to the rearset. Looking at old threads, some of them refer to it, but perhaps the best pictures aren't around anymore.

Here's a google result that seems to confirm it:

https://www.truegether.com/rear-brak...6/listing.html

Some older threads:

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=16961
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=124085
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=276359
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=90631
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Old September 23rd, 2022, 09:43 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Zpatton View Post
Also I got the new kickstand spring in today and got it on. Is there some sort of secret to it? Every time I bring the stand up, the spring pops off. Really disappointing since that’s one part I’ve been looking forward to for over a week.
Did you get brand-new official OEM spring from authorised Kawasaki dealer? It's actually two springs in one. Make sure spring ends are inserted into grooves on both sides. And you should have hard time stretching it about 1"-1.5". Sometimes spring hook tool is needed to install.

If you bought used spring off fleabay, it may be used and stretched. Make sure it's strong enough to keep kickstand locked in up position. Otherwise if it flops around, it'll trigger sidestand switch and turn off bike at most unopportune time.

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Old September 23rd, 2022, 10:01 PM   #23
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Pretty sure that's the rear brake light switch, that attaches to the rearset. Looking at old threads, some of them refer to it, but perhaps the best pictures aren't around anymore.

Here's a google result that seems to confirm it:

https://www.truegether.com/rear-brak...6/listing.html
Ok thanks. Iíll take a closer look tomorrow. Kinda scared me when I heard that pop noise as if it was air pressure blowback from something.

Appreciate it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
Did you get brand-new official OEM spring from authorised Kawasaki dealer? It's actually two springs in one. Make sure spring ends are inserted into grooves on both sides. And you should have hard time stretching it about 1"-1.5". Sometimes spring hook tool is needed to install.

If you bought used spring off fleabay, it may be used and stretched. Make sure it's strong enough to keep kickstand locked in up position. Otherwise if it flops around, it'll trigger sidestand switch and turn off bike at most unopportune time.

Yes I bought it from Partszilla. Hereís what it looks like in the stand.



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Old September 24th, 2022, 10:10 AM   #24
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Oh my god. I know why the kickstand spring won’t stay in. The top arm that the spring sits on is bent backwards towards the rear of the bike. Not only that but it looks like it was intentionally done so.

How the hell am I supposed to fix that?! That’s welded onto the bike itself and isn’t something you can just replace. I’m already starting to get fed up with this bike.

I just wanted something to fiddle with and work on a little bit but something I can get running quickly. I’m dying to get this bike out into the street but it’s constantly one thing after another now.

Seriously how am I supposed to get that resolved? I can’t have an operational bike if that isn’t fixed.
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Old September 24th, 2022, 10:15 AM   #25
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Just gently bend it back with some big channel-lok pliers.

If you're feeling lucky, hammer in single blow!
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Old September 25th, 2022, 12:25 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
Just gently bend it back with some big channel-lok pliers.

If you're feeling lucky, hammer in single blow!
Danny thanks. It wasnít exactly easy but I got it into about as straight as I think itíll go. So far so good.

Now, progress is being made. So much in fact that I went ahead and got things put together enough to try and do a test start!

https://photos.app.goo.gl/HUvsrYHkhpaBPhzb7

SO CLOSE!!!!

Any ideas?

Friend of mine says to just go ahead and replace the ignition coils as I tried seeing if an old plug would arc during start but wasnít getting anything.

Iím finding this bike is more Frankenstein than I originally believed to be so. Thereís so many mismatched nuts and bolts I dunno what the hell is going on. Having to order lots of correct replacements simply because I do NOT trust whatís on there.
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Old September 25th, 2022, 12:56 PM   #27
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What is this? I believe it goes to the rear master cylinder but I still canít decipher what it is. Itís not supposed to look like that either is it?




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Old September 25th, 2022, 05:45 PM   #28
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Got some awkward non-stock attachment. Factory brake uses clevis there for adjustment.
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Old September 25th, 2022, 05:53 PM   #29
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Got some awkward non-stock attachment. Factory brake uses clevis there for adjustment.
Can you clarify? Not sure what that means exactly. Still a newbie here haha.
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Old September 25th, 2022, 05:54 PM   #30
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here's what factory master cylinder uses to attach to brake pedal. Allows for adjusting pedal angle/height.

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Old September 25th, 2022, 05:59 PM   #31
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here's what factory master cylinder uses to attach to brake pedal. Allows for adjusting pedal angle/height.
Interesting. I wonder if I need to replace this with the same attachment or the factory one?
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Old September 25th, 2022, 06:02 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zpatton View Post
Interesting. I wonder if I need to replace this with the same attachment or the factory one?
Factory be best. Connects to rear of brake pedal with cotter pin. You can also see how brake-light switch is attached. Although that brake-light switch spring goes through smaller 2nd hole on pedal-arm that's not easy to see in this photo. Not to pedal return-spring as shown in this photo.



Not sure clevis is available separately.
https://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/o...aster-cylinder

Wouldn't be difficult to fabricate one or get aftermarket:
https://www.yoshimura-rd.com/product...vis-2180-801-k

Good thing your kid stressed and broke rear-brake linkage with bike in garage. Rather than when you're on road hurdling towards railroad tracks with train!!
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Old September 25th, 2022, 06:46 PM   #33
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Other thing you need to do is unbolt master-cylinder and flip it around so body is in front of mounting holes, instead of behind. That way push-rod and cylinder is in-line with pedal-hole instead of being 3cm behind it. Go to 7:30 of this video:

Link to original page on YouTube.

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Old September 26th, 2022, 12:35 PM   #34
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What do I have to do to swap that new ignition in? Am I correct in what Iíve read about other bikes and I have to drill bolts out?
Yes. I had to drill what was left of the factory break-away bolts under the top triple clamp.




Somehow I did it pretty cleanly for my original lock from the EX250J where the markings had flaked off but basically destroyed the one from my EX250F where I tried to salvage a replacement component (the tube housing with the markings). Though I donít have a picture of the rest of that one you can see that I had similar trouble with smaller break-away bolts on the top. You wouldnít have to deal with any of that thoughÖ just the two big ones on the bottom that hold the whole thing to the top triple/fork clamp.

This was all many years before I ordered my new lock set but it means the work is done.

The factory break-away bolts leave a conical or dome shaped head that the drill just doesnít want to stay centered on, which is kind of the point. I still donít have a drill press so if I had to do it again Iíd probably use a metal sleeve or something that fits in the recess for the bolt head, then Iíd drill with a bit just small enough to fit through until there is a divot to keep a drill bit from wandering.

Once the bolt heads are drilled off you can grab the threaded parts left behind and remove them with locking pliers (Vise-Grips). There might have been permanent thread-locker (red Loctite) in there because I remember using a butane lighter to get it nice and hot first.
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Old September 26th, 2022, 12:41 PM   #35
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Danny thanks. It wasnít exactly easy but I got it into about as straight as I think itíll go. So far so good.

Now, progress is being made. So much in fact that I went ahead and got things put together enough to try and do a test start!

https://photos.app.goo.gl/HUvsrYHkhpaBPhzb7

SO CLOSE!!!!

Any ideas?

Friend of mine says to just go ahead and replace the ignition coils as I tried seeing if an old plug would arc during start but wasnít getting anything.

Iím finding this bike is more Frankenstein than I originally believed to be so. Thereís so many mismatched nuts and bolts I dunno what the hell is going on. Having to order lots of correct replacements simply because I do NOT trust whatís on there.
Sounds like itís trying to work! Is the petcock set to Prime? Is there fresh gas?
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Old September 26th, 2022, 12:48 PM   #36
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Other thing you need to do is unbolt master-cylinder and flip it around so body is in front of mounting holes, instead of behind. That way push-rod and cylinder is in-line with pedal-hole instead of being 3cm behind it. Go to 7:30 of this video:

Link to original page on YouTube.

Yeah. Looks like someone mounted it backwards and bent the threaded piece where the flea is attaches.
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Old September 28th, 2022, 08:37 PM   #37
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Only update I have lately is that I haven’t really been able to do anything haha. Life is busy. I am seriously considering taking the bike to a shop, paying the fee to have them run diagnostics to try and figure out what the actual issues are, then possibly letting them finish putting everything back together.

I just don’t have the time and energy, especially if it’s an actual electrical issue. Just want the darn thing up and running so I can do what I bought it for which is ride it.
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Old September 28th, 2022, 10:19 PM   #38
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Seems everything's in order with bike to run, engine wise. From your video, it's just not getting petrol from carbs, most likely clogged due to sitting. To confirm, squirt 2-3cc petrol into airbox, let sit for 30-sec, then try starting.

Carbs and petcock just needs complete restoration. You will NOT find any shop that can do this kind of work. Carbs are extremely specialised field mastered by very few elf-like creatures from black forests. Search for "clean carbs ducatiman" to find threads with how-tos and photos. Your best bet is to send to https://customcarbservices.com for restoration work. Carbs will come back brand-new and bike will run like it just came off showroom floor.

I've sent carbs in several times for refurb when I rebuild race-bike over winter. Since I run in stock-class, factory-fresh clean carbs is one of few "upgrades" that'll give me an edge over competition.

Related threads:
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=369351 - ColoradoCal
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=367339 - Detrailers <-- this guy is actually mechanic with moto-shop
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=365823 - ChicagoBob
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=354327 - clakmurrick
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=352293 - notunderweight
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=366273 - KurtF
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/show...13#post1225613 - MakoMoto
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/show...8&postcount=48 - aaronbtxnc
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/show...9&postcount=56 - 22R88
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/show...&postcount=100 - DevinWolfe
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/show...&postcount=102 - atomicrider266
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/show...&postcount=107 - FSTASFCK
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/show...&postcount=132 - roundhouse
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/show...&postcount=134 - Ghostt
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/show...&postcount=150 - inconer
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Old September 29th, 2022, 08:48 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
Seems everything's in order with bike to run, engine wise. From your video, it's just not getting petrol from carbs, most likely clogged due to sitting. To confirm, squirt 2-3cc petrol into airbox, let sit for 30-sec, then try starting.

Carbs and petcock just needs complete restoration. You will NOT find any shop that can do this kind of work. Carbs are extremely specialised field mastered by very few elf-like creatures from black forests. Search for "clean carbs ducatiman" to find threads with how-tos and photos. Your best bet is to send to https://customcarbservices.com for restoration work. Carbs will come back brand-new and bike will run like it just came off showroom floor.

I've sent carbs in several times for refurb when I rebuild race-bike over winter. Since I run in stock-class, factory-fresh clean carbs is one of few "upgrades" that'll give me an edge over competition.
Yeah Iíve read about ducatiman being, well the man, when it comes to rebuilding carbs.

So squirt it through the box the same way the air would flow or open the box up and squirt it onto the filter that way? I just got a new K&N filter so donít wanna ruin it haha!
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Old September 29th, 2022, 11:32 PM   #40
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not gonna hurt K&N.

Yeah get little squirt-bottle and spray petrol into intake-snorkel where air entres:



Or take off cover over air-filtre and squirt below it into airbox
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