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Old June 22nd, 2009, 01:56 PM   #1
ajaygraci
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Angry uhh, bike wont start.

yes my 2009 ninja wont start... i turn the key to on, choke all the way out, doesnt start, choke all the way in, doesnt start, choke in the middle, doesnt start!! all it does is sputter as long as im holding the button... FFS... i put on new turn signals could that be it? i started bike after that though n it started fine.... also have a full exhaust on there but i dont think that would have ANYTHING to do with it.... WTF anyone got any help you can give me? bikes been in storage for winter by the way n still got the "save gas" stuff in tank.. it didnt have a batery tender on it while in storage if that matters... turn signals n highs work fine so dont think its the battery.

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Old June 22nd, 2009, 02:15 PM   #2
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you didn't accidentally mistake the nos energy drink for an octane booster did you?
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Old June 22nd, 2009, 02:17 PM   #3
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The carb must have flooded.
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Old June 22nd, 2009, 02:42 PM   #4
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but it was starting FINE .. all its been doing is sitting in the garage wtf must have caused something to happen?

and lmao i cant belive that story is on these forums now too ( NOS crap )
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Old June 22nd, 2009, 02:43 PM   #5
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oh by the way how do u check to see if carb is flooded? how bout fixing it?
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Old June 22nd, 2009, 02:47 PM   #6
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maybe you have gummed up carbs if you didn't drain the carb before storing it or let the fuel stabilizer goes through your whole system beforehand.
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Old June 22nd, 2009, 02:51 PM   #7
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Clue Number One
Quote:
Originally Posted by ajaygraci View Post
yes my 2009 ninja wont start... bikes been in storage for winter by the way n still got the "save gas" stuff in tank.. ... turn signals n highs work fine so dont think its the battery
Clue Number Two
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Originally Posted by ajaygraci View Post
it didnt have a batery tender on it while in storage if that matters
Before you start chasing imaginary problems dump the gas you have and get fresh fuel in the tank. Drain the bowls on the carbs to be sure you have fresh fuel at the carb.

Next get a full charge on the battery. If it has been siting all winter it might make the lights light, and the starter crank but may not have enough left to give you a hot spark.

If it ran before you put it to bed these are the only two variables that have changed. Just my opinion though.
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Old June 22nd, 2009, 02:59 PM   #8
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thanks guys and old guys lol,

ok i attached a picture with the lights circled that are on when i start the bike ( of course neutral is guna be on because bikes in nuetral but circled it anyway.. any of these a problem?
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Old June 22nd, 2009, 03:01 PM   #9
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Don't forget to make sure the kill switch is in the right position.
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Old June 22nd, 2009, 03:02 PM   #10
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Oil and Temp lights are always on when you have the key in "ON" and the bike isn't running yet just like you have lights on in your cage when you first turn the key on and it isn't running. Just let's you know that the circuits are working. It's when the come on while the engine is running that you worry.
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Old June 22nd, 2009, 03:06 PM   #11
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lol the kill switch is in the OFF position.. wow.. lol... okay so i guess im funna have to drain the carbs... hmm wonder how the F im guna do that.. and how do you go about draining the gas tank...thanks guys
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Old June 22nd, 2009, 03:20 PM   #12
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How many times did you start the bike successfully while it was in the garage over the winter?
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Old June 22nd, 2009, 03:25 PM   #13
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hummmm probably like 4 or so times... i read it was bad to start it more then that unless u intend on riding at least 15 miles..


does anyone have a link to a DIY "carb drain", "gas drain"
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Old June 22nd, 2009, 03:28 PM   #14
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It is, which is why I asked. Motorcycles have pretty small batteries compared to cars, and I doubt there's enough stored energy to complete 20 cold starts without draining the battery past what would be able to restart the engine once more. 4 starts doesn't sound like too many, but a battery tender on the battery over the winter pretty much guarantees you won't have a problem with it come spring.
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Old June 22nd, 2009, 03:34 PM   #15
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yea i was going to put on a battery tender but just got swamped with school n never got to it :/
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Old June 22nd, 2009, 03:35 PM   #16
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so i guess draining the carbs is as easy as ,

1. removing one side of fairing.
2. finding the drain screw switch thing.
3. puting a tube around where it will drain
4. glass container to catch it.
5. tighten screw back up?
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Old June 22nd, 2009, 03:37 PM   #17
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http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_to_..._float_bowls_2

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_to_...he_float_bowls
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Old June 22nd, 2009, 04:01 PM   #18
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thanks kim
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Old June 22nd, 2009, 04:03 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pantera View Post
Don't forget to make sure the kill switch is in the right position.

just what i was thinking
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Old June 22nd, 2009, 06:00 PM   #20
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ill update tomorrow when i clean it out, tell you guys if it works or not

by the way thanks so much, this forum has GROWN... wow i remember i used to ask questions n get like 3 responses, thank you so much u guys own
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Old June 22nd, 2009, 10:40 PM   #21
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Quote:
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just what i was thinking
If the kill switch was on it wouldn't turn over.
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Old June 23rd, 2009, 11:01 AM   #22
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w00t w00t omfg happiest guy rite here.. with the metric hex wrenches i had thye were too short to reach the second carb so ill buy a longer one n do it later but i drained one carb, looked like clean gas, couldnt do the other one so i tried starting up the bike and it worked!!!!!!!

I LOVE U GUYYYYYYYYYSSSSSSSSSS w(.)(.)t
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Old June 23rd, 2009, 12:32 PM   #23
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glad to hear it
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Old June 23rd, 2009, 02:16 PM   #24
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okay... i drained the second carb... so both are drained...it is still sputtering now and it just sounds weird ....so it starts now kinda (kinda had to rev it a hair but it was not a constant rpm when idleing ...i think i have to drain the gas tank... anyone know how to do this?
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Old June 23rd, 2009, 02:46 PM   #25
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pull the gas line where it enters the carbs and point hose into a container.

go to your gas petcock and turn it to "prime".... gas should flow out the hose and into the container until tank is empty. When the tank is empty, put a little gas in the tank, slosh the bike around and then dump the contents out using the method described above. repeat until you feel most of the crap is out of the tank.

when you remove the gas line from the carbs, there is a little filter on the end of the hose that you will need to remove for gas to flow freely.

You might consider removing that small filter altogether and replace with a small plastic inline filter instead.

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Old June 23rd, 2009, 02:50 PM   #26
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Have you ridden it at all or are you just starting it and listening to it in the garage?

If the fuel bowls are drained and had relatively clean gas in them anyway, the bike starts OK, and it was running fine when you parked it, I'd give it a onceover for all the typical pre-ride checks (oil, air pressure, perhaps critical bolts), and go take it for at least a 20 mile ride and see how it's behaving at the end of it. You may be chasing a non-problem, and just getting everything up to operating temperature might be all it really needs.
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Old June 23rd, 2009, 03:13 PM   #27
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just starting it and listening in the garage, the reason i think it is the gas is because when i drain the carbs then test it, it starts fine, but then an hour later if i go to start it it will not start, so id drain the carbs again and it would start.... now i am having to keep giving it gas until it starts ... meh...i guess im off to drain the gas tank but does anyone know where in the picture the petcock is..dno any of the objects he is describing
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Old June 23rd, 2009, 03:15 PM   #28
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i guess ill just put the plastics back on and leave it alone till july 15th when i can ride again, then give it gas to start it and try the riding it 20 miles...
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Old June 23rd, 2009, 04:55 PM   #29
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How many times have you started it again in the garage without riding it?

(hint: stop doing that. )
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Old June 23rd, 2009, 06:44 PM   #30
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lol i will stop.. but i rode it around neighborhood... this thing is not riding rite at all wTf... it stalls as soon as i let out the clutch no matter how gently.. meh
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Old June 23rd, 2009, 08:00 PM   #31
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Neighborhood isn't good enough. If you're not going to ride it for at least 20 miles, starting it is continuing to drain your electrical system, unless you do get that battery tender hooked up to it so each start is on a fully charged battery.
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Old June 24th, 2009, 06:37 AM   #32
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fairings off for a battery tender?

i have one laying around the house im going to try to hook it up now but gotta lookup where battery is... -.-


thanks again alex for all your help
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Old June 24th, 2009, 08:45 AM   #33
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Quote:
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fairings off for a battery tender?

i have one laying around the house im going to try to hook it up now but gotta lookup where battery is... -.-


thanks again alex for all your help

The battery is under the seat. I hooked up my battery tender wires and routed them up through the rear cowling under the plastics so that they poke out where the cut out for the helmet straps on the rear seat cowl is. That way I can unplug and stuff them in without having to remove anything from the bike or worry about something flapping about in the breeze.
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Old June 24th, 2009, 09:56 AM   #34
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I routed mine to peek out of the left side of the bike right behind the fairing, right near the idle adjustment knob. This way it's a convenient location for my heated gear as well, and the same pigtail can be used for both.

Pics and info in this thread.
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Old June 24th, 2009, 10:19 AM   #35
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I routed mine on the right side...see the "white" arrow in the picture.
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Old June 24th, 2009, 10:34 AM   #36
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oh... u keep it attached.. i thought u just do it till batery is full then u take it off.. meh im dumb
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Old June 24th, 2009, 10:38 AM   #37
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Also, when you are removing and replacing the terminal screws on the battery itself to add the battery tender pigtail, do not use a screwdriver. You can't get them back tight enough using a screwdriver, and if you try it will just strip them anyway. Use a wrench, and make sure they are good and tight before replacing the seat; loose battery terminals are a common cause of weird electrical faults, and it's easily preventable.
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Old June 24th, 2009, 06:39 PM   #38
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uhh i didnt know how to drain the gas with the valve thing so i just stuck a tube in there and gave it a suck... almost got some in my mouth dam that gas came out quick..i could still taste the fumes lol.... well after that i put in a gallon and swished it about my tank, then syphoned it again... of course get it all over the floor cuz the tank i put it into got kicked by my clumsy friend -.- ...... so should i just leave it like it is now ( almost empty still a little in there) till july 15th or should i fill it up with gas now till july 15th?
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