Oil Pressure Light on Startup

[quicklooker]

Facts: <1000 miles since oil/filter change with KN Filter and T6 synthetic.

When the bike starts up cold with a little choke, the Oil Pressure light stays on for a very long time (+10 seconds) until the throttle is blipped slightly then it stays off on idle and for the rest of the ride.

Oil level is good. Oil looks nice and black like it should. No other noticable problems.

Is this something I should really be concerned about? Is the running oil pressure lower than it should be, even though the light isn't triggered?

I've read at least a half dozen different opinions on the matter.

EDIT: I am officially an idiot. I must either be burning oil and never checked it properly. I could easily fit another funnel and a half of oil into the bike as the site glass seemed only half-way between the two lines. At around 90-100% to the line, the light goes off within 5 seconds cold now at 1000rpm and NO blipping. I will check it again super cold after work (as I added just a half funnel more).

EDIT 2: The tiny bit of oil I added seems to have completely fixed the problem. The light goes out in less than 5 seconds consistently. Some folks say in the middle of the sight glass is ideal, but I had to fill it to the very top of the sight glass JUST to where it isnt showing a bubble anymore. I seriously doubt the couple extra ounces will destroy my gaskets, so I prefer this lesser of two evils.

[DaBlue1]

Originally Posted by quicklooker

....When the bike starts up cold with a little choke, the Oil Pressure light stays on for a very long time (+10 seconds) until the throttle is blipped slightly then it stays off on idle and for the rest of the ride.

What is your idle speed with the choke on at start up? if you have to blip the throttle for the light to go out, chances are the idle speed is too low.

[ninjamunky85]

I've heard this same story several times now, it usually doesn't turn out good.

[quarterliter]

I timed my ninja yesterday with a cold start T6 with a vesrah filter it took 2.3 seconds from fire up for the oil light to go out. This bike has less than a 1000 miles total and about 400 on the oil/filter. Is this too long? I wish I could prime the engine before fire up.........

[ninjamunky85]

The oil pressure light should go off as soon as the engine rpm's reach idle speed. Mine would stay on for a second in the pre-gen if I started it on a downhill slope. You should really only see it on when the key is turned on but the engine isn't running.

[quarterliter]

Do you start it with the nose pointed down a slope or up? On the side stand slanting downhill. Any suggestions for the cure?

[quarterliter]

Should it be off the side stand, balanced? I try getting it to crank but my carberation is such that it starts with/without choke and starts immediately. Now the 5w40 will result in less oil pressure at startup but will flow faster reaching the cams quicker. Any other ideas? The vesrah filter? They usually make good stuff but I havent heard much about their oil filters.

[ninjamunky85]

I try to start my bike on level ground, on the side stand or sitting on it, doesn't matter. 2 seconds is no where near as bad as 10 seconds like the OP described. I don't know anything about vesrah filters, only have ran kawi or fram on my pre gen, but it can have an effect. I also run 5w-40 Rotella T-6.

[quarterliter]

The Vesrah looked comparable to the stock kawi filter that came out of the bike maybe alittle better visual quality. I just removed the filter screen on the ninja which had a few specs of material (looks like sealant) but nothing major. No metal shavings or anythings else of that matter just whitish greyish specs of material. I cleaned it and blew it off with air. With that filter removal came the majority of the oil..............so it looks as if I am doing an oil change.....I don't have a filter on hand tho. Should I wait for one to arrive via amazon I'm trying WIX next, or can I stay with the vesrah becuase I only have 400 miles on it?

[ninjamunky85]

It sounds like you are okay. I wouldn't worry about it unless your oil light starts staying on at idle all the time, or comes on at a stop. What are your idle rpm's set at?

[quarterliter]

Pretty high because I have heard the ninja has poor oil circulation at low rpm. Cold around 1700 and hot around 2000. Has anyone ran the ninja without that filter screen to try and get more oil circulation quicker? Because any screen restricts the flow. Just throwing it out there but there are many more variables than just removing screen=more flow.

[quicklooker]

So I am stupid. My oil level was about halfway between the two lines with both wheels on the ground. I filled it closer to the line (before starting the bike) and the light went out within a solid 5 seconds. I tested it with quicker results and added a tiny bit more to check it again after work when it's super cold.

Originally Posted by quarterliter

Pretty high because I have heard the ninja has poor oil circulation at low rpm. Cold around 1700 and hot around 2000. Has anyone ran the ninja without that filter screen to try and get more oil circulation quicker? Because any screen restricts the flow. Just throwing it out there but there are many more variables than just removing screen=more flow.

That screen is there for a reason. It filters chunky bits that could really screw up the smaller tubes for the oil flow and clog the whole system up. IIRC

It's like running without an air filter, in comparison... I guess.

[DaBlue1]

Originally Posted by quicklooker

....Idle is at about 1200.
....I've heard that:
Checking the Oil Pressure Switch
Checking the Oil Filter Bypass
Changing the Oil Filter and/or oil
Praying to the Motorcycle God that my bike isn't going to blow up

Are good places to start.

Your problem is not that complicated. Try turning up the idle speed to 1400.
According to Kawasaki, the engine idle speed should idle at 1300 (+/- 100) rpm.

Some owners have it as high as 2000 (which is rather high IMO, usually elicits a clunking in the tranny when shifting from N-1st).

Depending on the ambient temps (cold oil moves a little slower), the light should go out within a matter of seconds after the engine is running, provided the oil level is sufficient and engine idle speed is up high enough to produce adequate oil pump pressure.

[quicklooker]

Originally Posted by DaBlue1

Your problem is not that complicated. Try turning up the idle speed to 1400.
According to Kawasaki, the engine idle speed should idle at 1300 (+/- 100) rpm.

Some owners have it as high as 2000 (which is rather high IMO, usually elicits a clunking in the tranny when shifting from N-1st).

Depending on the ambient temps (cold oil moves a little slower), the light should go out within a matter of seconds after the engine is running, provided the oil level is sufficient and engine idle speed is up high enough to produce adequate oil pump pressure.

Is 5 seconds too long at 1000rpm?

Basically, my bike is either out of tune or jacked up. My idle doesnt set to around 1500rpm until it's warmed up.

[BlueRaven]

Originally Posted by quicklooker

Facts: <1000 miles since oil/filter change with KN Filter and T6 synthetic.


Oil level is good. Oil looks nice and black like it should. No other noticable problems.

Is this something I should really be concerned about? Is the running oil pressure lower than it should be, even though the light isn't triggered?

Is your oil black or a caramel color? Just curious. I've been using Rotella T6 for the past couple of years and it never became black just a little darker than fresh oil.

[DaBlue1]

Originally Posted by quicklooker

Is 5 seconds too long at 1000rpm?

5 second is long, but your idle speed is too low as well. You need the proper idle speed for proper oil pressure. Is 5 seconds going to kill or damage the engine? Probably not.

[DaBlue1]

Originally Posted by quicklooker

.....Basically, my bike is either out of tune or jacked up. My idle doesnt set to around 1500rpm until it's warmed up.

Do you use the choke when you start up? That will up your idle speed while it is warming up.

[quicklooker]

Originally Posted by DaBlue1

Do you use the choke when you start up? That will up your idle speed while it is warming up.

Normally, yes, but it also can knock the rpms up to anywhere from 2000-3000 while I do it and I wanted an accurate-ish reading at closer-to-idle rpms otherwise the light would immediately go off (havent tested, but I suspect).

Originally Posted by DaBlue1

5 second is long, but your idle speed is too low as well. You need the proper idle speed for proper oil pressure. Is 5 seconds going to kill or damage the engine? Probably not.

My idle is set at 1500 when warmed up. If I set it any higher all it's gunna do is kick my warmed up idle to around 2000 which is too dang high. It's a complicated issue where my bike is a POS and/or I have no idea how to properly tune the carbs back, but this is an unrelated problem I plan on fixing myself eventually.

Originally Posted by BlueRaven

Is your oil black or a caramel color? Just curious. I've been using Rotella T6 for the past couple of years and it never became black just a little darker than fresh oil.

Not pitch-black, but to be honest I didnt get the best look at it in a dark garage.

Originally Posted by DaBlue1

Depending on the ambient temps (cold oil moves a little slower), the light should go out within a matter of seconds after the engine is running, provided the oil level is sufficient and engine idle speed is up high enough to produce adequate oil pump pressure.

I personally summed it all up to: Cold Oil, Low RPMs. This was before I suspected an issue. Today after work I'll be able to really check it good with a solid cold engine and a good amount more oil.

Whats weird is that my oil level on the center-stand is actually higher than on two wheels. I don't understand it.

[quarterliter]

Quick question. How long after running the engine after an oil change do you check the level in the sight glass? 3 minutes? 5 minutes? Does kawi give a number?

[quarterliter]

On the center stand the bike is tilted because the rear wheel is off he ground. Check level with it balanced and on the ground.

[DaBlue1]

2000-3000 rpms is a common idle speed range for when the choke is on. They key is reducing the amount of choke (small increments) during the warm up until the bike can maintain a steady set idle speed on it's own. It is also normal to ride off with the choke on a short distance until the bike is warmed.

The idle speed should be set to 1500 (exactly where you have it) when the bike is fully warmed. It is also common for the idle speed to change due to varying season (cold-hot) changes, so small idle adjustments may be necessary.

You also need to check your oil with the bike level on two wheels and not on the center stand.

I think having a look at an Owner's Manual will help you with some of the basic operations of the bike, while a service manual with help you with more detailed maintenance task.

[quicklooker]

Originally Posted by quarterliter

Quick question. How long after running the engine after an oil change do you check the level in the sight glass? 3 minutes? 5 minutes? Does kawi give a number?

The wiki says 5 minutes.

Originally Posted by DaBlue1

2000-3000 rpms is a common idle speed range for when the choke is on. They key is reducing the amount of choke (small increments) during the warm up until the bike can maintain a steady set idle speed on it's own. It is also normal to ride off with the choke on a short distance until the bike is warmed.

The idle speed should be set to 1500 (exactly where you have it) when the bike is fully warmed. It is also common for the idle speed to change due to varying season (cold-hot) changes, so small idle adjustments may be necessary.

You also need to check your oil with the bike level on two wheels and not on the center stand.

I think having a look at an Owner's Manual will help you with some of the basic operations of the bike, while a service manual with help you with more details maintenance task.

Thank you, Blue. Your help as been very valuable.

I will have my level checked and adjusted properly tonight. If the light doesnt go off within 5 seconds totally cold and choked (not at 1000rpm) I will begin seeking other forms of repair.

[quarterliter]

I saw that but it wasn't definitive at all. I don't always trust the wiki all the time.

[DaBlue1]

Originally Posted by quarterliter

Quick question. How long after running the engine after an oil change do you check the level in the sight glass? 3 minutes? 5 minutes? Does kawi give a number?

Several minutes.

[Jiggles]

Blipping the throttle when the oil light is on is not the smartest response.

[quicklooker]

Originally Posted by Jiggles

Blipping the throttle when the oil light is on is not the smartest response.

*shrug*

Now I know. I figure the parts that need oil are still at least lightly lubricated when the bike is cool. If I blip the throttle to 3000 and it goes off then at least the oil pressure is high enough now. Better than letting it sit at 1000rpm with no oil pressure. No different than putting the choke on anyway to raise rpms to the same level with a normal startup.

Hopefully I solved the issue this morning.

[jkv45]

If you want more oil pressure sooner, change from running T6 (5W-40) to a 10W-40 oil.

You'll get more pressure sooner with an oil with a higher "W" grade. It will take slightly longer to flow, but at temps above 50 or so a 10W should flow just fine. Any time you are starting in temps in the 40-50 degree range a lower "W" grade oil (5W) will have an advantage because it will begin to flow sooner. Since a majority of your engine wear comes from cold start-ups, you'll reduce wear and also get more cranking speed when you need it. All synthetic oils flow better than their conventional match at the same temp.

Try a 10W-40 cycle oil and see what it does.

[quicklooker]

Originally Posted by jkv45

If you want more oil pressure sooner, change from running T6 (5W-40) to a 10W-40 oil.

You'll get more pressure sooner with an oil with a higher "W" grade. It will take slightly longer to flow, but at temps above 50 or so a 10W should flow just fine. Any time you are starting in temps in the 40-50 degree range a lower "W" grade oil (5W) will have an advantage because it will begin to flow sooner. Since a majority of your engine wear comes from cold start-ups, you'll reduce wear and also get more cranking speed when you need it. All synthetic oils flow better than their conventional match at the same temp.

Try a 10W-40 cycle oil and see what it does.

Thanks for the info. I'll give it a try when I run out of this sweet sweet T6.

[jkv45]

Originally Posted by quicklooker

Thanks for the info. I'll give it a try when I run out of this sweet sweet T6.

Give it a try and let us know what you find.

I've run T6 in many of my cycles, and it's decent oil, but there are times where a better Group IV 10W cycle oil gives smoother shifting for a longer period of time. I've found that T6 will give notchy shifting after a thousand miles or so when hot. The Castrol 4T RS 10W-40 hasn't done the same in my SV650. From what I've read, T6 will shear down to the edge of 30/40 grade pretty quickly when used in cycles.