April 13th, 2011, 04:21 PM | #1 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Natalie
Location: La Puente, CA
Join Date: May 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Kawasaki Ninja EX250 Special Edition Red/Black Posts: 455
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Questions about the forbidden hugger (Shinto)
So after almost 9 months, and $30 later, I finally got it. Does anyone else out there have a Shinto rear hugger that can assist me with how to install it? Do you need to take off any OEM parts to install it? I'm at work, so I haven't had a chance to actually look at my bike to see how it's going to go on, but I was hoping someone could give me some tips beforehand. Thanks in advance.
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'10 Ninja 250R SE Red/Blk Mods: Projekt D FE, Protons, HB Blk Windscreen, HIDs, TBR Blk Series Slip-On, Shogun Sliders, Solo Cowl, Integrated Tail Light, Gls Blk Rear Fender, Red Accents Last futzed with by nattygirl; May 2nd, 2011 at 09:33 PM. |
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April 18th, 2011, 02:34 PM | #2 |
ninjette.org member
Name: matt
Location: j.c. ny
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its very easy the only thing i had to do was take the bolt out of the rear brake reservoir and thats it , thats all i had to do for mine, its a tight fit but can be done (if u want to take off the caliper u can but dont have to )
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April 18th, 2011, 02:41 PM | #3 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Natalie
Location: La Puente, CA
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Sorry for the newb question, but what's a caliper? Isn't that for the brakes? And thanks for replying.
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'10 Ninja 250R SE Red/Blk Mods: Projekt D FE, Protons, HB Blk Windscreen, HIDs, TBR Blk Series Slip-On, Shogun Sliders, Solo Cowl, Integrated Tail Light, Gls Blk Rear Fender, Red Accents |
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April 18th, 2011, 03:26 PM | #4 |
ninjette.org member
Name: matt
Location: j.c. ny
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yes it is for the brakes , its the braket that holds the pads on , u can take it off it u want to, but dont have to
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April 18th, 2011, 03:30 PM | #5 |
ninjette.org member
Name: matt
Location: j.c. ny
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im not sure but i think there is a video on how to do it, plus u have take off the oem chain guard lol
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May 2nd, 2011, 09:16 PM | #6 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Natalie
Location: La Puente, CA
Join Date: May 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Kawasaki Ninja EX250 Special Edition Red/Black Posts: 455
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Blade,
I was trying to test fit the hugger on my bike, but I cannot figure out how to get it on. What I think is the brake line, gets in the way. Seems impossible to get it on. How did you get yours on? Did you have to disconnect the brake line and then reconnect it? The hook part that holds the brake line in place seems like its going to be in the way as well. What were to happen if I undo this screw? I started to loosen it, but then liquid starting coming out, so I immediately screwed it back in. Could you possibly post a pic of how it looks from the right side? Behind the exhaust?
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'10 Ninja 250R SE Red/Blk Mods: Projekt D FE, Protons, HB Blk Windscreen, HIDs, TBR Blk Series Slip-On, Shogun Sliders, Solo Cowl, Integrated Tail Light, Gls Blk Rear Fender, Red Accents |
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May 2nd, 2011, 09:26 PM | #7 |
Wartown, USA
Name: Bryan
Location: Warner Robins, GA
Join Date: Nov 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250R SE, 2007 Ninja 650R, and assorted other bikes Posts: A lot.
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That liquid that came out is brake fluid, and when you loosened that bolt you probably let air into the brake system. This can cause your rear brakes not to work properly.
My suggestion is to find someone near you that knows about bikes to help you install it before you do something that will cause you to wreck your bike. You will need basic mechanic skills to install that hugger. The hugger itself isnt going to cause problems, but if you dont know what you are wrenching on, its best you dont until you do. Going through the install of that hugger on the forum probably isnt going to be possible unless someone is willing to take a bunch of pics of them installing that hugger. Which is highly unlikely, given that most of the customers of shinto never got theirs. |
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May 2nd, 2011, 09:37 PM | #8 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Natalie
Location: La Puente, CA
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Well, after looking at Paul's video of the hugger, looks like I'm definitely going to have to get that brake line taken off and rerouted. If you look at his video, at 00:29, you can see that his brake line is totally flipped around.
Link to original page on YouTube.
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'10 Ninja 250R SE Red/Blk Mods: Projekt D FE, Protons, HB Blk Windscreen, HIDs, TBR Blk Series Slip-On, Shogun Sliders, Solo Cowl, Integrated Tail Light, Gls Blk Rear Fender, Red Accents |
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May 2nd, 2011, 09:55 PM | #9 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Natalie
Location: La Puente, CA
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Here's another youtube video with the brake lines flipped also. This one looks like a sportisi hugger. Is it ok to run your bike with the brake lines this way? The end of this video shows it alot better.
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'10 Ninja 250R SE Red/Blk Mods: Projekt D FE, Protons, HB Blk Windscreen, HIDs, TBR Blk Series Slip-On, Shogun Sliders, Solo Cowl, Integrated Tail Light, Gls Blk Rear Fender, Red Accents |
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May 2nd, 2011, 10:13 PM | #10 | |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Natalie
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Quote:
I went on the bike right now. I let it roll slightly, and then applied the rear brake. It did stop the bike properly. I'm hoping I didn't do too much damage, by loosening that bolt. Literally as soon as I noticed fluid, I tightened it right back up.
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'10 Ninja 250R SE Red/Blk Mods: Projekt D FE, Protons, HB Blk Windscreen, HIDs, TBR Blk Series Slip-On, Shogun Sliders, Solo Cowl, Integrated Tail Light, Gls Blk Rear Fender, Red Accents |
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May 2nd, 2011, 11:33 PM | #11 |
I hate driving...
Name: S
Location: SW Ohio
Join Date: Jul 2010 Motorcycle(s): 13 Triumph Street Triple R, 09 Ninja 250r (Sold 4/20/12) Posts: A lot.
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Were the brakes still as firm as before? if they are a bit spongy feeling or just a bit different then there is air in the brake system. You have to the bleed the brakes to get the air out. I could tell you how to bleed the brakes but you have to make sure to do it right, especially on a bike. Shouldn't have damaged anything though just by loosening it. The reason you don't want air in the brake system is that air is compressible so it causes the brakes not to be as effective and also can cause the fluid to overheat. But from what you said there isn't much air in there at least.
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May 3rd, 2011, 06:36 AM | #12 |
Wartown, USA
Name: Bryan
Location: Warner Robins, GA
Join Date: Nov 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250R SE, 2007 Ninja 650R, and assorted other bikes Posts: A lot.
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Its best not to detach the brake lines unless you have to. Once you remove them it will dump the brake fluid all over the place if you havent drained it. Brake Fluid eats paint and other coatings, so be careful not to get it on anything you dont want to destroy.
To bleed the brakes... On the caliper is a small nipple with a rubber cap over it. Thats the bleeder valve. Get a small plastic bottle, and some clear silicone tubing. Put the tubing over the nipple, and the other end into the bottle. Get some fresh brake fluid. Pour a little fresh brake fluid into the bottom of the bottle so that it covers the end of the tubing in the bottle. Then open the brake fluid resevoir (the small plastic bottle just above the rear right passenger peg). The next part is tricky, and you might need some help from someone. Apply pressure to the brake lever and hold it.Using a proper wrench, loosen the bleeder valve with the tubing on it...it will start to pump brake fluid through the tubing into the bottle. When it starts to slow, quickly close the bleeder valve by tightening with the wrench. Check the brake fluid resevoir to make sure its not getting low (if it gets too low, it can feed air right back into the system), let go of the brake lever, and then reapply pressure...and hold. Loosen the bleeder valve and let it flow, then tighten as before. You need to continue this process until no air bubbles are seen in the tubing. You might have gotten lucky and not gotten any air into it. But if you decide to reroute those brake lines by removing them for installing the hugger. You will have to bleed the brakes when you reassemble it. If you dont, the next time you push on the brake lever to stop, it will either feel mushy and not do much, or bottom out with no response from the rear brakes. A better option if possible would be to unbolt the caliper, leaving it connected. Move it out of the way, install the hugger, then bolt the caliper back on. I dont know if this will work for that hugger though. Just make sure nobody presses the brake lever while the caliper is off the bike. If they do, the pads will close up tight, and its a real bizotch to get them apart again. You can stick a piece of cardboard inbetween the pads as a precaution. |
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May 3rd, 2011, 07:39 AM | #13 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: Cuong
Location: San Diego
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Bleeding brakes isn't too difficult, but remember that you are working on brakes which are very important for safety (although it is your rear brakes vs front). Just an FYI, I've always been taught the steps slightly different from above and not sure if it'll make a difference.
Loosen nipple, apply pressure to brake, tighten nipple, let go of brake. You're trying to get rid of the air in the system with this process so you continue with these steps until you stop seeing air bubbles. Honestly though, if you're gonna bleed the brakes, you really should flush the whole system out because you shouldn't be mixing old and new brake fluid. |
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May 3rd, 2011, 09:03 AM | #14 |
ninjaholic
Name: Dustin
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All you have to do is take the caliper off... there are 2 allen head screws (extremely tight btw) and you'll also end up taking off the brake line holder (it's in the way of the cover) then reroute the brake line when you reconnect the caliper. I did the same for my sportisi cover:
You can look in the sportisi hugger gb thread that is in the marketplace forum... it was covered in there a few times. Hope this helps.
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May 3rd, 2011, 11:50 AM | #15 |
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Name: rock
Location: greenville, south carolina
Join Date: Jun 2009 Motorcycle(s): black Posts: A lot.
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If the brake lever feels good then you're gonna be fine. Make sure the bolt is tight and not seeping any more fluid out
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May 3rd, 2011, 03:49 PM | #16 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Natalie
Location: La Puente, CA
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I called my local motorcycle shop. They quoted $30 to bleed the brake lines, so I might just have them do it. Piece of mind, especially since it is "the brakes". I saw that Sportisi hugger thread last night. Wish I would have saw it beforehand. The install looks like it's going to be exactly the same. Thank you all for your help.
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May 8th, 2011, 07:24 PM | #17 |
CPT Falcon
Name: J.Emmett Turner
Location: Newnan, GA
Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): '08 CP Blue EX250J, '97 unpainted EX250F, 2nd '97 unpainted EX250F (no engine), '07 black EX250F Posts: A lot.
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I had the same issue with my Sportisi hugger. No one mentioned the brake line in the DIY or installation videos and even when I started pulling teeth to get answers they still wouldn't mention the brake line holder which must be ripped apart or cut off if you aren't going to compromise your brake system. It's a pretty major step when it makes the difference between a "no cut" installation and brake bleeding (neither of which are covered). Sigh.
Anyway, I had to tweak the fitting for the brake line by loosening it ever so slightly and I saw a tiny bit of wetness form around it. I doubt any air got in because it was likely pressurized (compressed air at the top of the reservoir). I was aware of what air could do and extremely hesitant to even touch it, so you know I took care to minimize the chances of air getting in. |
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May 9th, 2011, 06:25 AM | #18 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Natalie
Location: La Puente, CA
Join Date: May 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Kawasaki Ninja EX250 Special Edition Red/Black Posts: 455
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My hugger is getting painted right now. Should get it back in a few days. Hoping to do the install this weekend. Fingers crossed that all goes well now that I know what needs to be done. I didn't realize the shinto hugger was so similar to sportisi. Glad I can use your installs as a reference.
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